Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt, cotton sateen edition, FW2022 mfsc HOOPER collection. Made in Japan.

Happy MF® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirts Family ©2023

Introducing three smashing Mister Freedom® Dude Rancher family members in finer-than-frog-hair cotton sateen for FW2023!

Happy MF® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirts Family ©2023

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt, cotton sateen edition.
FW2023 mfsc Survival School x Sportsman collection.
Made in Japan.

This is not exactly our first rodeo when it comes to “cowboy shirts.” The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA, introduced during Fall 2013, was our first traditional “western snap” shirt and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics. We discontinued that pattern.

Its much fancier successor, the all-original MF® “DUDE RANCHER”, is our second spin on the style. The pattern is inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts from our archives, each with specific variations of a style pioneered by Rockmount Ranch Wear legendary CEO Jack Weil starting circa 1946. “Papa Jack”, as he was called, is credited as the father of the modern Western shirt, and the first “designer” to opt for snap button closure, vs. the earlier 1930s shank button styles.

Our DUDE RANCHER pattern was of course twisted MF® style, and has become a Mister Freedom® staple since its 2019 poplin debut in our catalog. It is today available in a wide range of old school fabrics.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back curved shoulder yokes, but we decided on arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt not too “Roy Rogers”, no offense to the Singing Cowboy belting it out on his steed Trigger.
Our playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.

Another distinctive design choice are the painted metal snaps, reminiscent of sought-after vintage 1950s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell western shirts, as previously featured on the MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

Our fabric choice for this season is a nod to classic Lee® Westerner™ shirts, popular in the late 1950s/60s with dude ranch vacationers in search of a whiff of a romantic rugged Old West, and “Urban Cowboys” set to deck themselves out in western fashion alike. In pop music culture, “Cosmic Country” in the 1960s, and a revival in “Country & Western” in the 197os also brought some exposure to the style. I’ve always loved old sateen Westerners, and scoring one was always thrilling during my rag-picking days.

Vintage 1960s Lee® Westerner™ shirt label.

Our choice of black rayon fabric as the collar band facing/shoulder yoke lining is a reference to fancy specimen by the now-defunct classic “Tem-Tex” label and their elaborate Texas-made cowboy shirts. Our recent “Hooper” edition Dude Ranchers — available in four finer-than-frog-hair 1950s style cotton corduroys — are riding on that fancy trail.

Vintage 1950s “TEM-TEX” Western shirt from the Mister Freedom® Archives, inspiration for the FW2023 MF® Dude Rancher black rayon collar/yoke lining. ©2023

Our original cotton sateen DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt will pair well with any classic wardrobe, and look sharp with traditional denim blue jeans or dressier slacks.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER Western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Fancy 100% cotton sateen, 7 Oz., milled in Japan.
Three classic color options:
a) Ivory
b) Black
c) Sandstone (khaki)

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s western-style shirts.
* Original western-wear arcuate front and back yokes combo.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (paint will chip with age.)
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Intricate diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton high-count tonal stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The cotton sateen MF® DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.

I opted for a MEDIUM on this DUDE RANCHER sateen edition, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit. (I’m 5.7’’ approx. 145 Lbs.)
Please note that I tended to size down on earlier versions, so do refer to our sizing chart for approximate soaked measurements to properly dial in your size.
This
 is how we measure. Please use those guidelines to compare measurements of a garment of a similar style you own (i.e. a shirt), and that fits according to your liking.
When in doubt, reach out to the MF® Team sales@misterfreedom.com with your body measurements and fit expectations  to get educated sizing recommendations.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® UTILITY Jacket, OG-107 cotton sateen, FW2023 msfc “Survival School”, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co UTILITY Jacket OG-107 sateen.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School
Made in Japan.

Full credits to the folks at the “Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot” for coming up with this garment pattern circa 1941!
The design was adapted from civilian denim workwear styles popular at the time, and would briefly become the new US Army work/field jacket during the early years of WW2. The M-1941 jacket was issued in olive green HBT, under the moniker “Jacket, Herringbone Twill, Specification No. PQD 45.”
Incorporating commercial fashion designs in US military uniforms had become a thing in the late 1930s, as it was thought a “new look” would help boost morale for the troops, and instill “pride in uniform.”
The resulting modernized design of the M-1941 Utility Jacket proved fancier-than-needed in the field, not fully-practical in the front lines, and costly to manufacture. Additionally, intricate patterns and overly complicated tech-packs limited the amount of contractors able to deliver regulation uniforms on time, not an ideal situation during wartime production.
Read here for interesting specifics on WW2 military field uniforms.

For us, that pattern was a perfect candidate to play with for one of our “might have been” MF® garments.
After updating the fit and tweaking a few things, we released a 2×1 denim version in 2015 (blog post), followed by a Melton wool/indigo twill CDO model.
For our Survival School venture, we thought of a matching top to the Mechanic Trousers, and the UTILITY Jacket pattern was selected as the companion of choice for a smashing OG-107 tuxedo! Right on time for the Holidays.
The fabric is a 9 Oz. vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, in that classic military shade of Olive Green we all love. Milled in 2024 as close as it gets to its 1952 GI ancestor (and I don’t mean the contemporary overly-slubby commercial renditions), our OG-107 cotton sateen is bound to age as gracefully as that of vintage fatigues.

The MF® UTILITY Jacket, OG-107 cotton sateen 2023 edition, is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Revisited pattern of the US Army Spec No. PQD 45 M-1941 UTILITY Jacket.

FABRIC:
100% cotton, vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, OG-107 color, 9 Oz., milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Revisited pattern of the classic US Army Spec No. PQD 45 M-1941 UTILITY jacket.
* Unlined, all clean seams.
* Elegant curved notch lapel.
* Waist length, complimenting one’s natural waist.

* Side cinch straps, mil-specs metal sliders.
* ‘Bat sleeve’ pattern with gusset for arm hole comfort.
* Double chest pockets, expanding box pleats.
* Back panel expansion pleats.
* Large inner chest pocket, locked in panel construction.
* ‘Burst of Glory’ type metal tack buttons, black. Color will chip with wear.
* Adjustable cuffs, fancy shirt-sleeve style.
* Chainstitch construction, 100% cotton thread, tonal.
* Woven rayon label “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” on the inside waistband, stamped sizing on neck.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:

The Mister Freedom® UTILITY Jacket OG-107 comes UN-WASHED, cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after the initial cold soak/line dry shrinking process. Recommended protocol:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.

This jacket is considered true-to-size.
At 5’7 ~145 lbs., I opted for a SMALL, my usual current size in mfsc jackets, with enough room for a Medalist sweatshirt.
The size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your clothes to fit. Measure a jacket of a similar style you own and compare to our size chart, reflecting rinsed measurements.
This is how we measure.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
Turn garment inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Excessive and irreversible shrinkage may result from using hot water and heat dryer.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.


Thank you for your support, and Happy Holidays!

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® MECHANIC Utility Trousers, OG-107 cotton sateen, FW2023 msfc “Survival School”, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co MECHANIC Utility Trousers, OG-107 cotton sateen.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School
Made in Japan.

We are freely borrowing again from a vintage pair of 1957 New Old Stock “TROUSERS, UTILITY, COTTON, SAGE GREEN, CLASS 2, HEMMED BOTTOMS, SHADE 509” (MIL-T-4335A) from our archives.

Issued to US Air Force Aircraft Mechanics in the mid 1950’s, these cotton sateen “grease monkey” pants are immediately distinguishable by their USAF sage green fabric, pleated front, double thigh tool pockets, and long waist-adjusting cinch tabs. They somewhat have the ‘look’ of the lower half of a pilot flight suit.

Compared to the ubiquitous 1950s-60s OG-107 cotton sateen Utility Trousers (MIL-T-838) — their military fatigue brother-in-arms, sometimes referred to as “Baker” pants —, vintage specimen of USAF MIL-T-4335A are rare birds.

We initially modified the pattern/fit/features/fabric of the USAF originals back in 2014, and released the MF® Mechanic Utility Trousers in an indigo Cavalry twill.
We had kept the functional side cinch tabs — allowing for a quick 2-inch waist adjustment —, but removed the front pleats and thigh tool pockets. Instead, a single utility pocket was relocated along the inseam of the left leg, ‘sandwiched’ in the flat-felled seam, mid-calf, convenient for storing map/gloves/tools/phone/etc.

The main update for this FW2023 edition of the MF® MECHANIC Trousers is the fabric, pretty much going back full circle to the original 1950s version, fabric wise. We opted for a 9 Oz. vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, OG-107 color — that classic shade of Olive Green we all love. Milled in 2024 as close as it gets to its 1952 US military cotton-back sateen ancestor, our MECHANIC fabric is bound to age as gracefully as vintage specimen did. For that worn-in look, you will have to do the wearing, as we are still not caving-in to factory-distressed garments.
The OG-107 color base fabric is
complimented by subtle “Indian” orange contrast accents, visually matching our “Survival School” concept. The blazing orange snap caps and concealed orange ripstop fabric facing are nods to vintage US Military survival/signal gear.

The MF® MECHANIC Trousers, OG-107 cotton sateen 2023 edition, are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Freely-inspired by 1950s USAF Mechanic Utility Trousers (MIL-T-4335A) and mfsc 2014 Mechanic Utility Trousers.

FABRIC:
100% cotton, vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, OG-107 color, 9 Oz., milled in Japan.
Concealed facing: Indian orange all-cotton ripstop.

DETAILS:
*  Original msfc pattern, freely inspired by 1950s USAF Mechanic Utility Trousers style.
* Mid-high rise period cut.
* Two front slash patch pockets.
* “Utility/map” pocket, left leg inseam, mid-calf.
* Button fly, brown corrozo wood buttons.
* Quick release side cinch tabs, 2-inch waist adjustment.
* Contrast “Indian” orange snap caps on tabs + cotton ripstop facing.
* Two rear patch pockets, single flap.
* Flat-felled seam sturdy construction.
* 100% cotton thread stitching, tonal.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Survival School” double labeling: woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” topped with printed “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” labels.
* Made in JAPAN.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® MECHANIC Utility Trousers OG-107 come UN-WASHED, cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after the initial cold soak/line dry shrinking process. Recommended protocol:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry cycle and line dry.

These are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured natural waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions.
I opted for a W30 in the MECHANIC Trousers  — my usual current size in mfsc jeans/trousers at 5’7 ~145 lbs — for a fit top block (both tabs cinched) and comfortable straight leg silhouette.

Note that the side tabs allow for a 2-inch waist adjustment when fully-cinched (second snap.)

We recommend hemming the pants to your desired length after the shrinking process. The simple 1 ¾  inch folded hem only requires single-needle machine work, and traditional hemming will look sharper than rolled cuffs.
The waist size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your pants to fit.
Please refer to size chart, reflecting rinsed measurements.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
Turn garment inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Excessive and irreversible shrinkage may result from using hot water and heat dryer.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.


Thank you for your support, and Happy Holidays!

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT, 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” fiber denim, FW2023 msfc “Survival School” Edition, made in Japan.

 

The Grandfather! Original 2008 Mister Freedom® “Naval Clothing Tailor” No6284 Peacoat, “301 Okinawa” denim.
©2008 (For illustration ONLY)

Mister Freedom® Denim PEACOAT… it’s BACK! ©2023

How do I get me one of ’em peacoatshh, Pops?” The Joe Greene ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT, “301 Okinawa” fiber denim edition.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School
Made in Japan.

Our initial take on classic US Navy 10-button peacoats was the “Naval Clothing Tailor” denim Peacoat (aka mfsc 6284 Coat, Deck, Utility), released back in the sunny Spring of 2008.
The original pattern was adapted from a vintage US Coast Guard (USCG) 1920s melton wool peacoat from our archives. That first issue featured a sugarcane fiber denim shell (14 ½ Oz. “SC301 Okinawa” denim), paired with an indigo/white striped cotton ticking lining. Mine, pictured above, sadly got stollen from a display years ago.

Using the same classic pattern, we thought of going MF® OG this season, back to the early days of “Heritage Fashion”… So, please welcome the anticipated latest addition to our naval-inspired jacket family, the Grandson of our 2008 Grandpa, the FW2023 MF® “Okinawa” Denim Peacoat!

True to its ancestor, the shell fabric of the 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT is made of Sugar Cane Co’s proprietary “SC301 Okinawa” denim, a dark indigo selvedge denim blend of 50/50 recycled sugarcane fibers and cotton fibers (the ratio has evolved through seasons of production, according to raw material availability), a neppy and dry 14 Oz. thing of beauty with rewarding fading potential.

For the body lining, matching our recent Barnstormer SPECS, we opted for an all-cotton golden brown mid-wale corduroy — a reference to the hand warmer pocket bags on vintage 30s-50s USN peacoats, before the Quartermaster decided on the cheaper pocketing fabric option of an unbleached-white cotton twill.

The sleeve lining is cut from Mil-Specs OG-107 cotton-back sateen material, also an expensive and fancy fabric milled in Japan, just because we like to keep the bling on the inside sometimes.

The choice of black leather accents for pocket welt/stops is borrowed from vintage civilian 1930s “Duck Hunting Coats” out of the Montgomery Ward, Sears Roebuck or LL Bean catalogs. More on that background here. With natural wear and a few nautical miles on this NCT Peacoat, the patina and attractive color/texture contrast between the indigo denim and the black horsehide trims should get interesting on Fridays.

The “modified” double labeling — recurring branding for our msfc “Survival School” collection — is a reference to period US military experimental clothing, and a respectful nod to the little-known Quartermaster Research Facility (aka Natick Army Labs), a US Department of Defense organization located in Natick, Massachusetts. The “CLOTHING & TEXTILE RESEARCH UNIT” has been tasked with designing and developing anything from new uniforms/gear/fabrics/camo patterns/etc for the US military since 1952.

The MF® 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT in “SC301 Okinawa” fiber denim is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, and made in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by 1910s-30s early US Navy/US Coast Guard wool peacoats.

FABRIC:
Shell: Sugar Cane Co’s proprietary “SC301 Okinawa” denim, 14 Oz. dark indigo selvedge denim blend of 50/50 recycled sugarcane fibers and cotton, neppy, dry and prickly, white with green line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Body lining: Soft 100% cotton mid-wale corduroy, golden brown shade, milled in Japan.
Sleeve lining: 100% cotton OG-107 sateen, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Classic 1910s~1930s US Navy & US Coast Guards melton wool peacoat pattern and construction.
* Ten-button front closure.
* Early USN type ’13 stars’ fouled anchor design buttons.
* Four outside pockets: two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure hip pockets, all lined with golden brown corduroy.
* Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (resized to fit an average smartphone, so that you keep it tucked while you drive.)
* Leather arrowhead pocket stops/pocket welt reinforcements, black tea-core horsehide.
* Detachable chin strap (displaying either fabric if left dangling, or concealed if buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional zig-zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* “Modified” double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven/printed labels.
* Cotton-wrap poly thread tonal stitching.
* Mister Freedom® woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” label topped with “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” collection-specific printed label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT ships raw/unwashed, and will shrink to intended/tagged size after the following initial process:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets/coats. Do not size down as the arm hole opening may become an issue. The FW2023 “Okinawa” Denim Peacoat feels a bit tighter in the chest than its Barnstormer companion.
I’m ~5’7 – 140 lbs and went for a 38 in this “301 Okinawa” denim peacoat model, even though I tend to navigate between 36 (Small) and 38 (Medium) lately.
Please check out our measurement chart and compare with a similar garment you own that fits you well. To dial in your size, also consider your layering preferences.

MF® crew sizing recs:
CL (5’7 ~ 140 lbs): I opted for a 38 (MEDIUM), trim fit with tight arm holes.
John (6’ ~ 170 lbs): 40 (LARGE)
Ivan (5’9 ~ 160 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)
Enoch (6’ ~ 153 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)

CARE:
DO NOT MACHINE WASH.
This garment is too heavy and voluminous for a regular home washer, even one boasting “Heavy Duty” settings. A machine wash cycle will either ruin the jacket, the machine, or both.
Hand wash highly recommended: Fill a tub with cold water, add a minimal dose of eco-friendly detergent, immerge the garment fully, let soak for about 30mn, and delicately rub. Rinse, hang to dry.
Spot cleaning with a wet rag will usually work for minor stains.

Professional eco-friendly dry-cleaning is also an option, but may alter the indigo color.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® BARNSTORMER Jacket, “USN Khaki” Jungle Cloth, FW2023 msfc “Survival School”, made in Japan.

 

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co BARNSTORMER Jacket, “USN khaki” jungle cloth edition.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School
Made in Japan.

We have released quite a few peacoat styles through the years…

Our initial take on classic US Navy 10-button peacoats was the “Naval Clothing Tailor” denim Coat, Deck, Utility (mfsc 6284), back in Spring 2008.
The original pattern was adapted from a vintage US Coast Guard 1920s melton wool peacoat. That first issue was released in a sugarcane fiber denim shell (14 ½ Oz. “301” Okinawa denim), paired with an indigo/white striped cotton ticking lining. Going through old documents recently, I realized that in 2008, only 39 pieces were produced in Japan for the US market, and an unknown small amount for Japan. For the OGs who still have theirs, they’re pretty rare! Mine sadly got stollen from a display years ago.

Followed a few variations on the same basic jacket pattern, all with new creative exotic names:

* Fall 2008: MF® Peacoat “Liberty Issue” (mfsc 6284MD), same “301” denim shell but with a wool navy blanket lining, and with a classic naval “Liberty” treatment (concealed rainbow stitching and mermaid patches.)
* Fall 2010: MF® “Midnight” P-Jacket, 16 Oz. “Midnight” twill (indigo warp x black weft), 10 Oz. indigo/white cotton pincheck lining.
* Fall 2015: MF® Caban Peacoat, indigo warp x black weft twill shell, HBT French Lizard camo lining.
* Fall 2016: MF® Waterfront Coat, natural linen/cotton HBT shell, Troy blanket lining.
* Fall 2017: MF® MAC Jacket, 9 Oz. Mil-Specs OG-107 cotton sateen, red plaid printed flannel lining.
* Fall 2020: MF® Roamer Car Coat, black 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy, Troy blanket lining.

For Fall 2023, we are introducing a new member to that MF® peacoat family: The MF® BARNSTORMER Jacket.

This bad boy is the love child between a 1920s USCG 10-button peacoat, a 1940s USN jungle cloth N-1 Deck Jacket, and vintage civilian 1930s “Duck Hunting Coats” out of the Montgomery Ward, Sears Roebuck or LL Bean catalogs.

For the story, those civilian khaki brown hunting coats/Mackinaw coats are also referred-to as “China Marine” jackets (as worn by the 4th Marines stationed in China mid-1920s to 1941), or “Iceland” jackets (as worn by First Marine Provisional Brigade stationed in Iceland circa 1941.)
Interestingly, that hunting coat style also made it on deck of USN ships in the 1940s, since several outdoor clothing contractors supplied the Navy with winter gear on the onset of WW2. See famous LIFE Magazine photos of sailors sporting a range of foul weather jackets.
We have seen a few vintage civilian specimen pass through the MF® HQ doors, and they usually get snagged pretty quickly.
From those 1930s hunting coats, we only borrowed the leather pocket welt/stops accents, an attractive color/texture contrast between the khaki jungle cloth and black horsehide trims.

The inspiration we drew from authentic 1940s US Navy N-1 deck jackets is the vintage Mil-Specs shell fabric, a sturdy and windproof 14 Oz. Jungle Cloth (aka cotton grosgrain) in its mid-40s “USN Khaki” color. This specific “olive” shade is un-issued, i.e. darker than many contemporary khaki N-1 fabrics with a lighter sun-bleached look.

For the lining of our BARNSTORMER, we stayed “plausible” and went with an all-cotton golden brown mid-wale corduroy, a reference to the hand warmer pocket bags on vintage 30s-50s USN peacoats, before the Quartermaster decided on the cheaper pocketing fabric option of an unbleached-white cotton twill.

As sleeve lining, we chose a vintage Mil-Specs OG-107 cotton sateen material, just because there’s nothing like discovering fancy expensive fabric on the inside of a garment!

The term “barnstormer” is a reference to the early days of aviation when pilots in open cockpits had to resort to all kinds of winter gear, often long and bulky leather coats not yet specifically designed for flying. Legend has it that strafing though an open Mid-West barn was a famous acrobatic circus act for a barnstorming stunt flier in the 1920s, which may, or may not, have been safer than the death-defying wing-walking routine…

The “modified” double labeling — recurring branding for our msfc “Survival School” collection — is a reference to period US military experimental clothing, and a respectful nod to the little-known Quartermaster Research Facility (aka Natick Army Labs), a US Department of Defense organization located in Natick, Massachusetts. The “CLOTHING & TEXTILE RESEARCH UNIT” has been tasked with designing and developing anything from new uniforms/gear/fabrics/camo patterns/etc for the US military since 1952.

Will all the above as pedigree, the Mister Freedom® BARNSTORMER definitely ended-up looking like a “could-have-been”, and may puzzle a few in the next generations of vintage buyers, should a well-worn specimen resurface at a flea market in the year 2070!
Buyer: “Dude, is this like, old?”
Seller: “Dude, it’s from the 20s.

The MF® BARNSTORMER Jacket is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, and made in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by early 1910s-30s US Navy/US Coast Guard wool peacoats, vintage military deck jackets and hunting coats.

FABRIC:
Heavy-duty 100% cotton “jungle cloth”, vintage Mil-Specs 14 Oz. grosgrain, 1940s USN khaki shade, milled in Japan.
Body lining: Soft 100% cotton mid-wale corduroy, golden brown shade, milled in Japan.
Sleeve lining: 100% cotton OG-107 sateen, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Classic 1910s~1930s US Navy & US Coast Guards melton wool peacoat pattern and construction.
* Ten-button front closure.
* Early USN type ’13 stars’ fouled anchor design buttons.
* Four outside pockets: two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure hip pockets, all lined with golden brown corduroy.
* Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (resized to fit an average smartphone, so that you keep it tucked-in while you drive.)
* Black tea-core horsehide leather arrowhead pocket stops and pocket welt reinforcements and contrast accents.
* Detachable chin strap (displaying either fabric if left dangling, or concealed if buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional zig-zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* “Modified” double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven/printed labels.
* Cotton-wrap poly thread tonal stitching.
* Mister Freedom® woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” label topped with “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” collection-specific printed label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® BARNSTORMER Jacket ships raw/unwashed, and will shrink to intended/tagged size after the following initial process:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets/coats. Do not size down as the arm hole opening may become an issue.
I’m ~5’7 – 140 lbs and went for a 38 in this jungle cloth peacoat model, even though I tend to navigate between 36 (Small) and 38 (Medium) lately.

Please check out our measurement chart and compare with a similar garment you own that fits you well. To dial in your size, also consider your layering preferences.

MF® crew sizing recs:
CL (5’7 ~ 140 lbs): I opted for a 38 (MEDIUM), for a comfortable fit to allow layering.
John (6’ ~ 170 lbs): 40 (LARGE)
Ivan (5’9 ~ 160 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)
Enoch (6’ ~ 153 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)

CARE:
DO NOT MACHINE WASH.
This garment is too heavy and voluminous for a regular home washer, even one boasting “Heavy Duty” settings. A machine wash cycle will either ruin the jacket, the machine, or both.
Professional eco-friendly dry-cleaning is recommended should heavy soiling occur. Spot cleaning with a wet rag is an option for minor stain.
Additionally, the initial soaking process can be repeated, with a minimal dose of eco-friendly detergent added to the bath to hand wash the garment.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023