Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co MECHANIC Utility Trousers, OG-107 cotton sateen.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School”
Made in Japan.
We are freely borrowing again from a vintage pair of 1957 New Old Stock “TROUSERS, UTILITY, COTTON, SAGE GREEN, CLASS 2, HEMMED BOTTOMS, SHADE 509” (MIL-T-4335A) from our archives.
Issued to US Air Force Aircraft Mechanics in the mid 1950’s, these cotton sateen “grease monkey” pants are immediately distinguishable by their USAF sage green fabric, pleated front, double thigh tool pockets, and long waist-adjusting cinch tabs. They somewhat have the ‘look’ of the lower half of a pilot flight suit.
Compared to the ubiquitous 1950s-60s OG-107 cotton sateen Utility Trousers (MIL-T-838) — their military fatigue brother-in-arms, sometimes referred to as “Baker” pants —, vintage specimen of USAF MIL-T-4335A are rare birds.
-
-
Original MIL-T-4335A 1957 USAF Mechanic Utility Trousers, MF® Vintage Archives
-
-
VNAF pilots and USAF instructor (1960s)
-
-
We initially modified the pattern/fit/features/fabric of the USAF originals back in 2014, and released the MF® Mechanic Utility Trousers in an indigo Cavalry twill.
We had kept the functional side cinch tabs — allowing for a quick 2-inch waist adjustment —, but removed the front pleats and thigh tool pockets. Instead, a single utility pocket was relocated along the inseam of the left leg, ‘sandwiched’ in the flat-felled seam, mid-calf, convenient for storing map/gloves/tools/phone/etc.
The main update for this FW2023 edition of the MF® MECHANIC Trousers is the fabric, pretty much going back full circle to the original 1950s version, fabric wise. We opted for a 9 Oz. vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, OG-107 color — that classic shade of Olive Green we all love. Milled in 2024 as close as it gets to its 1952 US military cotton-back sateen ancestor, our MECHANIC fabric is bound to age as gracefully as vintage specimen did. For that worn-in look, you will have to do the wearing, as we are still not caving-in to factory-distressed garments.
The OG-107 color base fabric is complimented by subtle “Indian” orange contrast accents, visually matching our “Survival School” concept. The blazing orange snap caps and concealed orange ripstop fabric facing are nods to vintage US Military survival/signal gear.
The MF® MECHANIC Trousers, OG-107 cotton sateen 2023 edition, are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Freely-inspired by 1950s USAF Mechanic Utility Trousers (MIL-T-4335A) and mfsc 2014 Mechanic Utility Trousers.
FABRIC:
100% cotton, vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, OG-107 color, 9 Oz., milled in Japan.
Concealed facing: Indian orange all-cotton ripstop.
DETAILS:
* Original msfc pattern, freely inspired by 1950s USAF Mechanic Utility Trousers style.
* Mid-high rise period cut.
* Two front slash patch pockets.
* “Utility/map” pocket, left leg inseam, mid-calf.
* Button fly, brown corrozo wood buttons.
* Quick release side cinch tabs, 2-inch waist adjustment.
* Contrast “Indian” orange snap caps on tabs + cotton ripstop facing.
* Two rear patch pockets, single flap.
* Flat-felled seam sturdy construction.
* 100% cotton thread stitching, tonal.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Survival School” double labeling: woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” topped with printed “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” labels.
* Made in JAPAN.
SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® MECHANIC Utility Trousers OG-107 come UN-WASHED, cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after the initial cold soak/line dry shrinking process. Recommended protocol:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Machine spin dry cycle and line dry.
These are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured natural waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions.
I opted for a W30 in the MECHANIC Trousers — my usual current size in mfsc jeans/trousers at 5’7 ~145 lbs — for a fit top block (both tabs cinched) and comfortable straight leg silhouette.
Note that the side tabs allow for a 2-inch waist adjustment when fully-cinched (second snap.)
We recommend hemming the pants to your desired length after the shrinking process. The simple 1 ¾ inch folded hem only requires single-needle machine work, and traditional hemming will look sharper than rolled cuffs.
The waist size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your pants to fit.
Please refer to size chart, reflecting rinsed measurements.
CARE:
Launder when needed.
Turn garment inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Excessive and irreversible shrinkage may result from using hot water and heat dryer.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support, and Happy Holidays!
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
The Grandfather! Original 2008 Mister Freedom® “Naval Clothing Tailor” No6284 Peacoat, “301 Okinawa” denim. ©2008 (For illustration ONLY)
Mister Freedom® Denim PEACOAT… it’s BACK! ©2023
“How do I get me one of ’em peacoatshh, Pops?” The Joe Greene ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT, “301 Okinawa” fiber denim edition.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School”
Made in Japan.
Our initial take on classic US Navy 10-button peacoats was the “Naval Clothing Tailor” denim Peacoat (aka mfsc 6284 Coat, Deck, Utility), released back in the sunny Spring of 2008.
The original pattern was adapted from a vintage US Coast Guard (USCG) 1920s melton wool peacoat from our archives. That first issue featured a sugarcane fiber denim shell (14 ½ Oz. “SC301 Okinawa” denim), paired with an indigo/white striped cotton ticking lining. Mine, pictured above, sadly got stollen from a display years ago.
Using the same classic pattern, we thought of going MF® OG this season, back to the early days of “Heritage Fashion”… So, please welcome the anticipated latest addition to our naval-inspired jacket family, the Grandson of our 2008 Grandpa, the FW2023 MF® “Okinawa” Denim Peacoat!
True to its ancestor, the shell fabric of the 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT is made of Sugar Cane Co’s proprietary “SC301 Okinawa” denim, a dark indigo selvedge denim blend of 50/50 recycled sugarcane fibers and cotton fibers (the ratio has evolved through seasons of production, according to raw material availability), a neppy and dry 14 Oz. thing of beauty with rewarding fading potential.
For the body lining, matching our recent Barnstormer SPECS, we opted for an all-cotton golden brown mid-wale corduroy — a reference to the hand warmer pocket bags on vintage 30s-50s USN peacoats, before the Quartermaster decided on the cheaper pocketing fabric option of an unbleached-white cotton twill.
The sleeve lining is cut from Mil-Specs OG-107 cotton-back sateen material, also an expensive and fancy fabric milled in Japan, just because we like to keep the bling on the inside sometimes.
The choice of black leather accents for pocket welt/stops is borrowed from vintage civilian 1930s “Duck Hunting Coats” out of the Montgomery Ward, Sears Roebuck or LL Bean catalogs. More on that background here. With natural wear and a few nautical miles on this NCT Peacoat, the patina and attractive color/texture contrast between the indigo denim and the black horsehide trims should get interesting on Fridays.
The “modified” double labeling — recurring branding for our msfc “Survival School” collection — is a reference to period US military experimental clothing, and a respectful nod to the little-known Quartermaster Research Facility (aka Natick Army Labs), a US Department of Defense organization located in Natick, Massachusetts. The “CLOTHING & TEXTILE RESEARCH UNIT” has been tasked with designing and developing anything from new uniforms/gear/fabrics/camo patterns/etc for the US military since 1952.
The MF® 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT in “SC301 Okinawa” fiber denim is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, and made in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by 1910s-30s early US Navy/US Coast Guard wool peacoats.
FABRIC:
Shell: Sugar Cane Co’s proprietary “SC301 Okinawa” denim, 14 Oz. dark indigo selvedge denim blend of 50/50 recycled sugarcane fibers and cotton, neppy, dry and prickly, white with green line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Body lining: Soft 100% cotton mid-wale corduroy, golden brown shade, milled in Japan.
Sleeve lining: 100% cotton OG-107 sateen, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Classic 1910s~1930s US Navy & US Coast Guards melton wool peacoat pattern and construction.
* Ten-button front closure.
* Early USN type ’13 stars’ fouled anchor design buttons.
* Four outside pockets: two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure hip pockets, all lined with golden brown corduroy.
* Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (resized to fit an average smartphone, so that you keep it tucked while you drive.)
* Leather arrowhead pocket stops/pocket welt reinforcements, black tea-core horsehide.
* Detachable chin strap (displaying either fabric if left dangling, or concealed if buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional zig-zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* “Modified” double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven/printed labels.
* Cotton-wrap poly thread tonal stitching.
* Mister Freedom® woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” label topped with “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” collection-specific printed label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT ships raw/unwashed, and will shrink to intended/tagged size after the following initial process:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets/coats. Do not size down as the arm hole opening may become an issue. The FW2023 “Okinawa” Denim Peacoat feels a bit tighter in the chest than its Barnstormer companion.
I’m ~5’7 – 140 lbs and went for a 38 in this “301 Okinawa” denim peacoat model, even though I tend to navigate between 36 (Small) and 38 (Medium) lately.
Please check out our measurement chart and compare with a similar garment you own that fits you well. To dial in your size, also consider your layering preferences.
MF® crew sizing recs:
CL (5’7 ~ 140 lbs): I opted for a 38 (MEDIUM), trim fit with tight arm holes.
John (6’ ~ 170 lbs): 40 (LARGE)
Ivan (5’9 ~ 160 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)
Enoch (6’ ~ 153 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)
CARE:
DO NOT MACHINE WASH.
This garment is too heavy and voluminous for a regular home washer, even one boasting “Heavy Duty” settings. A machine wash cycle will either ruin the jacket, the machine, or both.
Hand wash highly recommended: Fill a tub with cold water, add a minimal dose of eco-friendly detergent, immerge the garment fully, let soak for about 30mn, and delicately rub. Rinse, hang to dry.
Spot cleaning with a wet rag will usually work for minor stains.
Professional eco-friendly dry-cleaning is also an option, but may alter the indigo color.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co BARNSTORMER Jacket, “USN khaki” jungle cloth edition.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School”
Made in Japan.
We have released quite a few peacoat styles through the years…
Our initial take on classic US Navy 10-button peacoats was the “Naval Clothing Tailor” denim Coat, Deck, Utility (mfsc 6284), back in Spring 2008.
The original pattern was adapted from a vintage US Coast Guard 1920s melton wool peacoat. That first issue was released in a sugarcane fiber denim shell (14 ½ Oz. “301” Okinawa denim), paired with an indigo/white striped cotton ticking lining. Going through old documents recently, I realized that in 2008, only 39 pieces were produced in Japan for the US market, and an unknown small amount for Japan. For the OGs who still have theirs, they’re pretty rare! Mine sadly got stollen from a display years ago.
Followed a few variations on the same basic jacket pattern, all with new creative exotic names:
* Fall 2008: MF® Peacoat “Liberty Issue” (mfsc 6284MD), same “301” denim shell but with a wool navy blanket lining, and with a classic naval “Liberty” treatment (concealed rainbow stitching and mermaid patches.)
* Fall 2010: MF® “Midnight” P-Jacket, 16 Oz. “Midnight” twill (indigo warp x black weft), 10 Oz. indigo/white cotton pincheck lining.
* Fall 2015: MF® Caban Peacoat, indigo warp x black weft twill shell, HBT French Lizard camo lining.
* Fall 2016: MF® Waterfront Coat, natural linen/cotton HBT shell, Troy blanket lining.
* Fall 2017: MF® MAC Jacket, 9 Oz. Mil-Specs OG-107 cotton sateen, red plaid printed flannel lining.
* Fall 2020: MF® Roamer Car Coat, black 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy, Troy blanket lining.
For Fall 2023, we are introducing a new member to that MF® peacoat family: The MF® BARNSTORMER Jacket.
This bad boy is the love child between a 1920s USCG 10-button peacoat, a 1940s USN jungle cloth N-1 Deck Jacket, and vintage civilian 1930s “Duck Hunting Coats” out of the Montgomery Ward, Sears Roebuck or LL Bean catalogs.
For the story, those civilian khaki brown hunting coats/Mackinaw coats are also referred-to as “China Marine” jackets (as worn by the 4th Marines stationed in China mid-1920s to 1941), or “Iceland” jackets (as worn by First Marine Provisional Brigade stationed in Iceland circa 1941.)
Interestingly, that hunting coat style also made it on deck of USN ships in the 1940s, since several outdoor clothing contractors supplied the Navy with winter gear on the onset of WW2. See famous LIFE Magazine photos of sailors sporting a range of foul weather jackets.
We have seen a few vintage civilian specimen pass through the MF® HQ doors, and they usually get snagged pretty quickly.
From those 1930s hunting coats, we only borrowed the leather pocket welt/stops accents, an attractive color/texture contrast between the khaki jungle cloth and black horsehide trims.
The inspiration we drew from authentic 1940s US Navy N-1 deck jackets is the vintage Mil-Specs shell fabric, a sturdy and windproof 14 Oz. Jungle Cloth (aka cotton grosgrain) in its mid-40s “USN Khaki” color. This specific “olive” shade is un-issued, i.e. darker than many contemporary khaki N-1 fabrics with a lighter sun-bleached look.
For the lining of our BARNSTORMER, we stayed “plausible” and went with an all-cotton golden brown mid-wale corduroy, a reference to the hand warmer pocket bags on vintage 30s-50s USN peacoats, before the Quartermaster decided on the cheaper pocketing fabric option of an unbleached-white cotton twill.
As sleeve lining, we chose a vintage Mil-Specs OG-107 cotton sateen material, just because there’s nothing like discovering fancy expensive fabric on the inside of a garment!
The term “barnstormer” is a reference to the early days of aviation when pilots in open cockpits had to resort to all kinds of winter gear, often long and bulky leather coats not yet specifically designed for flying. Legend has it that strafing though an open Mid-West barn was a famous acrobatic circus act for a barnstorming stunt flier in the 1920s, which may, or may not, have been safer than the death-defying wing-walking routine…
The “modified” double labeling — recurring branding for our msfc “Survival School” collection — is a reference to period US military experimental clothing, and a respectful nod to the little-known Quartermaster Research Facility (aka Natick Army Labs), a US Department of Defense organization located in Natick, Massachusetts. The “CLOTHING & TEXTILE RESEARCH UNIT” has been tasked with designing and developing anything from new uniforms/gear/fabrics/camo patterns/etc for the US military since 1952.
-
-
USN deck jackets on deck, circa 1944 ©LIFE Magazine
-
-
USN deck jackets on deck, circa 1944 ©LIFE Magazine
-
-
Vintage LL Bean Hunting Coat, Mister Freedom® archives 2020
-
-
LL Bean “Duck Hunting Coat” ad 1943
Will all the above as pedigree, the Mister Freedom® BARNSTORMER definitely ended-up looking like a “could-have-been”, and may puzzle a few in the next generations of vintage buyers, should a well-worn specimen resurface at a flea market in the year 2070!
Buyer: “Dude, is this like, old?”
Seller: “Dude, it’s from the 20s.”
The MF® BARNSTORMER Jacket is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, and made in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by early 1910s-30s US Navy/US Coast Guard wool peacoats, vintage military deck jackets and hunting coats.
FABRIC:
Heavy-duty 100% cotton “jungle cloth”, vintage Mil-Specs 14 Oz. grosgrain, 1940s USN khaki shade, milled in Japan.
Body lining: Soft 100% cotton mid-wale corduroy, golden brown shade, milled in Japan.
Sleeve lining: 100% cotton OG-107 sateen, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Classic 1910s~1930s US Navy & US Coast Guards melton wool peacoat pattern and construction.
* Ten-button front closure.
* Early USN type ’13 stars’ fouled anchor design buttons.
* Four outside pockets: two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure hip pockets, all lined with golden brown corduroy.
* Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (resized to fit an average smartphone, so that you keep it tucked-in while you drive.)
* Black tea-core horsehide leather arrowhead pocket stops and pocket welt reinforcements and contrast accents.
* Detachable chin strap (displaying either fabric if left dangling, or concealed if buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional zig-zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* “Modified” double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven/printed labels.
* Cotton-wrap poly thread tonal stitching.
* Mister Freedom® woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” label topped with “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” collection-specific printed label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® BARNSTORMER Jacket ships raw/unwashed, and will shrink to intended/tagged size after the following initial process:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets/coats. Do not size down as the arm hole opening may become an issue.
I’m ~5’7 – 140 lbs and went for a 38 in this jungle cloth peacoat model, even though I tend to navigate between 36 (Small) and 38 (Medium) lately.
Please check out our measurement chart and compare with a similar garment you own that fits you well. To dial in your size, also consider your layering preferences.
MF® crew sizing recs:
CL (5’7 ~ 140 lbs): I opted for a 38 (MEDIUM), for a comfortable fit to allow layering.
John (6’ ~ 170 lbs): 40 (LARGE)
Ivan (5’9 ~ 160 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)
Enoch (6’ ~ 153 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)
CARE:
DO NOT MACHINE WASH.
This garment is too heavy and voluminous for a regular home washer, even one boasting “Heavy Duty” settings. A machine wash cycle will either ruin the jacket, the machine, or both.
Professional eco-friendly dry-cleaning is recommended should heavy soiling occur. Spot cleaning with a wet rag is an option for minor stain.
Additionally, the initial soaking process can be repeated, with a minimal dose of eco-friendly detergent added to the bath to hand wash the garment.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161” preview:
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161”, made in USA & Japan ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161”, made in USA & Japan full line-up ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161”, made in USA & Japan full line-up ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer” (Japan):
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer” ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer” ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer” ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer” ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer”, Alpha model ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer”, Alpha model ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer”, Alpha model ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer”, Bravo model ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer”, Bravo model ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirts “Flying Saucer”, Alpha & Bravo models ©2023
-
-
-
Joe Greene, considering color options…
-
-
Joe Greene, art director…
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
“You want my honest opinion?”
-
-
“I’m hungry, that’s my opinion.”
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
MF® Continental Sportcoat & Sportsman Chinos tw0-piece suit, ivory & indigo cotton HBT, SS2024 (USA):
MF® Continental Sportcoat & matching Sportsman Chinos, ivory & indigo cotton HBT (USA) ©2023
MF® Continental Sportcoat ivory cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Continental Sportcoat ivory cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Continental Sportcoat ivory cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Sportsman Chinos, ivory cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Sportsman Chinos, ivory cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Continental Sportcoat & Sportsman Chinos, ivory cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Continental Sportcoat, indigo cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Continental Sportcoat, indigo cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Continental Sportcoat, indigo cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Sportsman Chinos, indigo cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Sportsman Chinos, indigo cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Sportsman Chinos, indigo cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Sportsman Chinos, indigo & ivory cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Continental Sportcoat & Sportsman Chinos, indigo cotton HBT ©2023
MF® Continental Sportcoat & Sportsman Chinos, indigo & ivory cotton HBT ©2023
MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique & “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo “Jelt” twill SS2024 (Japan):
MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique & “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo “Jelt” twill SS2024 (Japan) ©2023
MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, navy & rust ©2023
MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, navy & rust ©2023
MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique ©2023
MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique ©2023
MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, rust ©2023
MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, navy ©2023
MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, navy ©2023
MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, navy ©2023
MF® “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo Jelt twill ©2023
MF® “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo Jelt twill ©2023
MF® “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo Jelt twill ©2023
MF® “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo Jelt twill ©2023
MF® “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo Jelt twill ©2023
MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray & “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 (Japan):
MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray & “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 (Japan) ©2023
MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023
MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023
MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023
MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023
MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023
MF® “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023
MF® “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023
MF® “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023
MF® “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023
MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray & “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 ©2013
MF® SS2024 CALIFORNIANS, RANCH BLOUSE, SPORTSMAN Shirt (USA):
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161” x Sportsman catalog, made in USA ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161” x Sportsman catalog, made in USA ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161” x Sportsman catalog, made in USA ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 CALIFORNIANs, made in USA ©2023
MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.54 Reissue, NOS Cone denim XUV ©2023
MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.54 Reissue, NOS Cone denim XUV (w/ worn original from 2009) ©2023
MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.54 Reissue, NOS Cone denim XUV ©2023
MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 Awa-Ai fiber denim ©2023
MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 Awa-Ai fiber denim ©2023
MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 Awa-Ai fiber denim ©2023
MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 Awa-Ai fiber denim ©2023
MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 (VDL14) Vidalia black selvedge denim ©2023
MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 (VDL14) Vidalia black selvedge denim ©2023
MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 (VDL14) Vidalia black selvedge denim ©2023
MF® Ranch Blouse & Californians, SS2024 Sportsman Catalog, made in USA ©2023
MF® RANCH BLOUSE, NOS Cone organic denim OG23 ©2023
MF® RANCH BLOUSE, NOS Cone organic denim OG23 ©2023
MF® RANCH BLOUSE, NOS Cone organic denim OG23 ©2023
MF® RANCH BLOUSE, NOS Cone organic denim OG23 (w/ worn Californian Lot.64 OG23) ©2023
MF® SPORTSMAN Shirt, IceBlu selvedge denim, 7.25 Oz ©2023
MF® SPORTSMAN Shirt, IceBlu selvedge denim, 7.25 Oz ©2023
MF® SPORTSMAN Shirt, IceBlu selvedge denim, 7.25 Oz ©2023
MF® SPORTSMAN Shirt, IceBlu selvedge denim, 7.25 Oz ©2023
Mister Freedom® x Sugarcane Co “AREA 7161” mfsc SS2024 Collection
We decided to get lost in space this season, with a brand new storyline. Grab the popcorn.
Our journey will take us from the early days of rocket engineering at JTL in the mid 1930s, with its gang of daredevil scientists (see Jack Parson and the fascinating story of the Suicide Squad), to the mysterious and secretive activities at “Paradise Ranch” in the mid 1950s, to Project Blue Book (official investigation of UFOs by the USAF 1948-1969)… all the way to the moon, and beyond!
“The Ranch”, aka Watertown, or Groom Lake, is an uninviting remote location in the Nevada high desert some 80 miles from Las Vegas, NV, and is better known today as AREA 51, after the US Government was legally pressured (under its FOIA commitment) to declassify documents acknowledging the site’s existence in 2013.
The classified Top-Secret and highly-restricted legendary AREA 51 is a remote air strip on natural salt flats located in Groom Lake, Nevada, initially utilized during WW2 as gunnery range by USAAF pilots. Also codenamed Watertown, the area was secretly reactivated in 1955 as a R&D facility for covert projects. In this hard-to-access isolated high desert location, the CIA, USAF pilots (referred to as “drivers”, for anonymity), Lockheed “Skunk Works” engineers, mechanics, …, helped develop and test U-2 spy planes.
Through the years, under Project AQUATONE, thousands of sworn-to-secrecy individuals were to be routinely flown-in from Burbank, California, where the planes were actually built, disassembled and shipped out of. Promisingly nicknamed “Angels” or “Super Snoopers”, these high-altitude aircrafts were mostly designed for arial photography recon missions over Communist Russia, and to eventually optimize America’s long-range nuclear reach.
Side note, Russia was conducting the same research at the time, and, through parallel technology advances, actually succeeded in the Space Race by launching the first-ever satellite in 1957, Sputnik-1. The US got even a few years later, by landing a manned-craft on the moon in 1969…
Of course, no allusion to that secret test facility goes without mentioning Aliens… So, for this collection, we will also go explore the “undiscovered”, and tap into the world of vintage Ufology – the study of UFOs (Unidentified Flying Object), more recently referred-to as UPA (Unidentified Anomalous Phenomena.)
UFOs have piqued public’s interest in the US starting in the 1930s.
During WW2, US flyers on combat missions also described unexplainable “fireballs” in the sky in both the European and Pacific Theaters. The unexplained phenomena were coined as “Foo Fighters” back then, origin of the term somewhat uncertain, maybe related to a popular 1940s comic strip.
In 1947, private pilot Kenneth Arnold’s alleged sighting of nine airborne shiny “boomerangs” helped coin the popular term “flying saucers” and sparked a “flying disc” sighting craze with Americans not-only eager for exciting news, but reassessing their worldviews in the Atomic Age.
A major event also happened in 1947, well-publicized since. Known as the Roswell incident, this was a mysterious military/CIA cover-up of an alleged UFO crash (potentially including its Alien “pilots”!) in a New Mexico desert ranch (Forster Ranch), close to the small town of Roswell, NM. For some, a mere weather balloon (or highly-classified surveillance balloon), for others, a Russian secret weapon or alien spaceship…
It is believed by some that the crashed Roswell “UFO” was under reverse-engineering in a secret AREA 51 hangar for years, along with the bodies of the Alien “pilots”… It is also said that most 1950s-60s UFO sightings in the USA were, in fact, shiny silver high altitude secret U-2 spy plane prototypes on test flights.
The topic of UFOs is mostly considered derisive occult hoax material today — admittedly fertile ground for conspiracy theories and an ideal playground for screwballs and charlatans with waaaay too much time on their hands — but is also the concern of many legit scholars. Take five and see Harvard Professor of Science and Astronomer Avi Loeb’s “in search for extraterrestrial intelligence” Galileo Project.
Serious research has been and continues to be conducted today, from early SETI programs to NASA’s recently-established official independent UAP-studying branch, the 2023 US Department of Defense AARO (All-domain Anomaly Resolution Office), etc…
There may be “nothing to see” out there, but that sure is a lot of budget and neurons allocated to the subject!
Fiction or facts, the place that potential extraterrestrial life has taken for Homo Sapiens around our globe is undeniable. From ancient mythology (check out Kaguya-hime in Japan!) to contemporary pop culture (see World UFO Day etc…)
This continued interest may not be proof of existence, but definitely shows our species’ appetite — and healthy curiosity — for the “unexplained” and “undiscovered.” It also may relate to our own individual eternal existential question about Life’s origin, that traditional religions and Science still fall short of answering.
For breaking news, see July 2023 US Congress hearings about UAP with retired USAF pilots (with apparently impeccable careers and credentials) testifying about their own experiences (and other USAF and commercial airlines pilots’ testimonies) with unknown flying objects. For the three “whistle blowers” testifying that day, writing a mission/flight report mentioning UAP sighting is not exactly “career-enhancing” in their very-serious line of work. They stated that their main goal in going public was to increase transparency, and shed light on what can be shared for the benefit of Science, without jeopardizing national security.
As a disclaimer, let me briefly state that I am neither the Sci-Fi fanboy, nor into paranormal mysticism, and have yet to sit through the original Star Wars trilogy or an X-Files season! Alien abductions, and of the concept of contactees are way too far-out for me, and I’m not sure what to make of Bob Lazar and his peers. But what do I know…
As a kid growing up in the 70s though, I did watch countless re-run episodes of “The Invaders” on French TV (that extended little finger creeped me out!), and do enjoy listening to Ken Layne’s Desert Oracle podcasts these days. Something about escaping to the Mojave Desert… I also do intend to have a cold one at the Little A’LE’ Inn at some point, just for the mandatory selfie in front of that motel sign!
So, are we not alone? Is there life out there? Well, if humans are lucky, it will hopefully be more intelligent than the one I was granted with!
SS2024 style inspiration:
For Spring 2024, Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co decided to have fun with vintage UFO lore, explore the myths and declassified history around AREA 51, in a simple mission to design a few casual wearables for 21st Century earthlings, with an emphasis on American 1940s-50s menswear/workwear with the usual MF® twist.
For visuals, Angels in Paradise (1960) is recommended watching. A declassified 20mn filmed documentary about the development of the U-2 at AREA 51. Great vintage footage, straight from the CIA.
For the historical timeline and background, Annie Jacobsen’s AREA 51 — a well-researched and fascinating book written in 2011 with an overwhelming amount of declassified intel — provided me with much of the content above.
This season’s SS2024 AREA 7161 mfsc collection line-up consists of (USA or Japan-made):
1) “FLYING SAUCERS” Rock’n’Roll Shirt, MF® x Sun Surf® (Japan):
Musical background here.
Fabric: 100% rayon, original artwork inspired by the 1947 Roswell alleged UFO crash and related vintage flying discs lore.
Color options:
a) Alpha model (original artwork colorway)
b) Bravo model (subdued background)
Sizing: CL will wear a MEDIUM in production.
ETA: End April 2024
2) “CONTINENTAL SPORTCOAT & “SPORTSMAN CHINOS” two-piece suit (USA):
Our classic and versatile suiting patterns, to pair or wear individually, to color-match or mismatch, to dress up or down.
Fabric: fancy herringbone twill, 100% cotton, 10 Oz., milled in USA.
Color options:
a) Indigo HBT
b) Ivory HBT
Sizing: CL will wear a 38 coat and W30 in production.
ETA: End April 2024
3) “ROCKETEER” JACKET (Japan):
(moniker reference to early Aeronautical research and rocketeering conducted in California since the 1930s, leading to jet-propulsion technology still used today by NASA today. See Jack Parson and the fascinating story of the Suicide Squad…)
The pattern borrows from vintage “gas station” jackets, as a rocket mechanic might have worn on/off the job.
Fabric: 100% cotton pique, milled in Japan.
Color options:
a) Rusty brown
b) Navy blue
Sizing: CL will wear a SMALL in production.
ETA: Mid March 2024
3) “DRIVER” Trousers (Japan):
(the word “driver” was used to address Area 51 USAF/CIA pilots who were testing U-2 planes, to add another layer of secrecy to the covert operation during radio/printed convo. Early spy plane pilots were instructed to not to wear US Government-issued gear, to reduce traceability in case of a crash landing on covert ops over enemy territory.)
Pattern inspired by a 1950s USN pair of Service denim dungarees, with a revisited naval service pants silhouette. Fitted top block and period wide leg for a 1930s-40s vibe.
Fabric: Dark double indigo “Jelt” twill, 10 Oz., milled in Japan.
Sizing: CL will wear a W30 in production. (photographed sample is W31)
ETA: Mid March 2024
4) “WATERTOWN” Shirt (Japan):
(“Watertown” was the code name for AREA 51 for internal convo.)
1950s style casual S/S shirt, blending period sportswear with workwear, diverting chambray fabric from its usual utilitarian garment role.
The orange/yellow contrast stitching combo is a nod to our Californian blue jeans.
Fabric: Indigo chambray, cotton/linen blend (85/15), 6.5 Oz., white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Sizing: CL will wear a SMALL in production.
ETA: Mid April 2024
5) “SWABBIES” CUT-OFFS (Japan):
One of our short pants best-seller at MF®, a versatile piece.
Fabric: OG-107 cotton sateen, 1950s Mil-Specs.
Sizing: CL will wear a W30 in production.
ETA: Mid April 2024
6) CALIFORNIAN Lot.54 Reissue (USA):
An anticipated reissue of our first Californian blue jeans model, initially released in 2010! Same cut, trims and vintage NOS Cone denim.
Limited run!
Fabric: New Old Stock Cone Mills “XUV” selvedge denim, 12 Oz., milled in USA.
Sizing: CL will wear a W30 in production.
ETA: Early March 2024
7) CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 “AWA-AI” fiber denim (USA):
Releasing the recent Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai in our popular and slimmer Lot.674 cut.
Fabric: Sugar Cane Co proprietary “AWA-ai” fiber denim (blend of 70% cotton x 30% sugarcane fibers), 13 Oz., white/green line selvedge ID, dark indigo hue, dry, hairy and neppy, milled in Japan.
Sizing: CL will wear a W31 in production.
ETA: Available now
8) CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 black denim VDL14 (USA):
Our classic 5-pocket cut.
Fabric: black warp x black weft bull denim, 14 oz., white/red selvedge ID, milled in USA by Vidalia Mills on Cone Mills legacy Draper-X3 looms.
Sizing: CL will wear a W29 or W30 in production.
ETA: Available now
9) RANCH BLOUSE OG23 (USA):
Our classic original trucker jacket, released in the same fabric as our SS2023 Californian Lot.64 OG23.
Fabric: New Old Stock Cone Mills “XXMC” organic selvedge denim, 12.75 Oz., milled in a Cone Mills-owned facility in China, operating with legacy looms.
Sizing: CL will wear a 38 in production.
ETA: Available now
10) SPORTSMAN Shirt IceBlu denim (USA):
Our classic workwear style shirt (same pattern as the MF® Ranger Shirt with additional front shoulder yoke expansion pleats.)
Limited fabric, very small run.
Fabric: 2×1 selvedge “IceBlu” denim, 7.25 Oz., milled in USA.
Sizing: CL will wear a SMALL in production.
ETA: Available now
That’s a wrap!
Our original SS2024 “AREA” mfsc collection is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and exclusively manufactured in Japan and USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, in limited quantities.
Please note that the SS2024 lookbook/preview features show samples, not necessarily reflecting quality/fit/details/labeling of the upcoming production.
As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is the Mister Freedom® on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing, original designs, and resistance to fast fashion, with styles that will easily incorporate into one’s existing classic wardrobe.
Thank you very much for your renewed support.
Love from Sunny California,
MF® Team, Joe & c
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Bailout A-side SMALL fit
-
-
Bailout B-side SMALL fit
-
-
Bailout A-side MEDIUM fit
MF® MA-1 “BAILOUT” Flyer’s Jacket.
Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s 30th Anniversary Limited Edition.
mfsc FW2023 “Survival School” collection.
Made in Japan.
The MF® MA-1 “BAILOUT” Flyer’s Jacket drop officially launches our anticipated mfsc FW2023 “Survival School” capsule collection, an original line up freely-inspired by 40s~70s US military survival gear, vintage experimental MIL-SPECS garments, early NASA astronauts training program visuals etc.
Introduction to our FW2023 mfsc “Survival School” storyline:
In the early days of WW2, a downed pilot’s chances of being rescued and making it back to safety were very slim.
The USAAF (United States Army Air Force) soon realized that training a serviceman in the art of flying was not enough. Arial combat training was lengthy, qualifying candidates few, so a skilled flyer needed to survive after a bail-out.
A downed aviator’s field experience was invaluable knowledge, and sharing that experience with new pilot recruits was crucial.
The odds of returning to base camp started changing with the establishment of “Survival Schools”, and the implementation by the DoD of proper “Survival – Evasion – Escape” training for all flying personnel. (timeline for USAAF here)
Newly-designed experimental gear was also being issued and tested in combat situations and survival circumstances.
Starting in the mid-1940s, official films recreating fictitious survival scenarios (jungle, desert, mountains, arctic) were produced, and became required viewing during training and on base.
Swimming skills became a requirement for all aircrews. Survival crash courses through tough physical training and studies of illustrated manuals became mandatory for Army Air Force and USN flyers.
Training in basic survival skills, acquiring jungle and mountain terrain knowledge, exotic fauna and flora expertise, learning about wilderness adaptability, food foraging, land navigation techniques, cold and hot weather survival, local language and customs essentials, expertise in blending with the elements to avoid capture, evasion tactics, …, all lead to greater chances to make it home for American flyboys.
Techniques, technology, and TO (Theater of Operations) have obviously evolved through the years for US Armed Forces, and so have instructions in survival manuals. If what applied to the Korean cold front in the 50s had to be adapted to Vietnam’s steamy jungles in the 60s, the basics and message remained the same after “Survival School”: “you now have the skills to live another day”, Sir.
For more background on our R&D inspiration and design process, check out:
* Vintage USAAF and USN pilot survival gear.
* Visuals from 1950s-1970s US military survival program, from “Arctic Indoctrination Survival School” (aka “Cool School”) to “Tropical Survival School” (aka “Green Hell”), to “Survival, Evasion, Resistance and Escape” (SERE) training.
* Visuals from NASA astronauts on desert/jungle survival training (+ here) or geological field trips ( photos 1965, 1965, 1965, 1967, 1969…)
-
-
USAF Survival Certificate (1969)
-
-
Astronauts USAF Trop Survival School 1964 (Getty)
-
-
John Young Apollo 16 Geology Training (1971)
-
-
NASA Astronaut Training 1979 (Getty)
-
-
Loren Janes & McQ wearing MA-1 J-Type, behind the scene of “The Hunter” (1980)
On a side, personal note, if warfare survival skills are obviously irrelevant to a pampered civilian life, and the odds of one experiencing Louis Zamperini’s plight unlikely for most, basic knowledge of adaptability and improvisation, resourcefulness, awareness of one’s surroundings at all time, applying the right amount of common sense and civility in all situations, should be attitudes taught in schools, and at home.
Yes, learning how to fend off a wild cat attack while on a hike, or knowing which side of a tree is most likely to grow moss in the northern hemisphere may sound like useless knowledge for most city dwellers stuck in traffic.
But, without turning into a paranoid survivalist nut job, merely paying attention in daily life will never be a bad habit to have! “Improvise, adapt, overcome” is not a bad motto either.
Along those lines, knowing to keep one’s eyes on the road and not the Pokemon while driving or crossing the street may prevent many Darwin Awards from being distributed worldwide. Right now, in the US alone, 2 auto crashes occurred in the 10 seconds it took you to read this paragraph.
Oh, and don’t act like a prey if you cross path with a big cat, even “The Zamp” couldn’t outrun a mountain lion. Also, moss usually grows on trees on the side facing North, if you lost your way, forgot your compas, and just realized you killed your battery on TikTok…
Kids these days know more about sneaker brands than varieties of edible wild fruits. Not sure this is a good survival skill for our species.
The jacket:
The Mister Freedom® BAILOUT Flyer’s Jacket is our spin on the classic MA-1 flight jacket – aka “bomber jacket” – the iconic piece of protective gear officially issued to USAF (United States Air Force) fighter jet pilots and flight crews throughout the 1950s~60s.
The design of the MA-1 flight jacket evolved through the years, with its inception around 1950 when the bulky mouton collar of its predecessor (the B-15 flight jacket, 1944~1954) was replaced by a soft wool knit ribbed band to better accommodate combat pilots modern flight helmets (out were the WW2 cloth skull caps, in were the hard shell “bone dome” types) and reconfigured jet aircrafts cockpits (the Jet Age mostly kicked propeller planes to oblivion for aerial warfare.)
Optimized for current technology, the MA-1 (MIL-J8279) was born, becoming official issue sometime in 1952. Followed many revisions, until the MA-1 was phased out by updated regulations and eventually retired in the late 1980s, outperformed by safer fire-resistant Nomex® MA-2 flight jackets. This wasn’t the MA-1’s last words however…
For our “Survival School” story, we decided to modify a vintage “JACKET, FLYING, MAN’S, INTERMEDIATE, MA-1, MIL-J-8279D” specimen from an Alpha Industries 1965 contract, and turn it into a “might have been” functional, wearable, “experimental” garment.
The major mod on the D-Type (fifth generation MA-1, circa 1960) had been its novelty reversible revamping, with a sage green (referred to as camo) nylon shell for classic military concealment on the ground, contrasting with an “Indian orange” high visibility lining. A downed pilot was instructed to wear the green side to evade enemy capture after a successful bailout, and wait for a rescue team flashing the orange side out.
Decades later, this major visual functional improvement probably helped to propel the MA-1 style to the unsustainable fashion sphere, from streetwear to catwalks, produced in all kinds of CoO (Country of Origin) for a wide range of international labels.
For our BAILOUT design mission, the main point of a plausible “revision” was to flip the blazing orange lining side as the main side, up the nylon twill ouncage, use the 2/2 nylon camo side as the lining, while keeping all period-correct Mil-Specs for fabrics and trims.
-
-
Vintage USAF MA-1 (Mil-J-8279D), 1965 Alpha Industry
-
-
Vintage USAF MA-1 (Mil-J-8279D), 1965 Alpha Industry
-
-
MF® x Buzz rickson’s MA-1 “Bailout” Flyer’s Jacket
R&D process ©2023
-
-
MF® x Buzz rickson’s MA-1 “Bailout” Flyer’s Jacket
R&D process ©2023
-
-
MF® HELO Jacket interlining construction ©2014
-
-
Vintage USN Natick Deck Jacket
-
-
Natick label on a vintage 1970 Float Coat
Collaborating with Buzz Rickson’s – celebrating at the same time their 30th Anniversary! – made this a breeze for us, thanks to the help, expertise and patience of Buzz’s creative director Kameya San and team. After providing detailed instructions/diagrams of our MA-1 BAILOUT concept, we gladly assumed the backseater role in the cockpit and let the world’s ichiban manufacturer of authentic military flight jacket replicas do all the heavy lifting.
Of course, Buzz delivered! No cut corners, outstanding craftsmanship and quality, living up to Toyo’s high manufacturing standards and BR’s impeccable reputation.
“But, why not just wear a vintage D-Type with the orange side out?” one could legitimately wonder…
Well, because of the overall construction, quilted storm flap set-up, slash pockets configuration (“hand warmer” for the A-side and “map storage” for the B-side), utility (“cigarette/pen”) sleeve pocket on A-side, etc…, sporting a vintage MA-1 orange side out will always look like the garment is being worn inside out. Not a life-threatening issue of course, but, for those attached to details – and we are -, wearing out what is clearly a jacket’s lining in non-survival circumstances may look a bit awkward or contrived around town.
The BAILOUT fills that gap for one wanting to casually wear a bright orange military-style flight jacket, built like a legit 1960s MA-1.
Note that the MF® BAILOUT is still fully reversible, and can of course be worn B-side (green) out.
On original D-Types, the orange nylon twill lining is of a lighter/thinner grade than the Mil-Specs green 2/2 twill shell. The MF® BAILOUT jacket features vintage Mil-Specs heavy 2×2 grade nylon twill on both A (orange) and B (green) sides.
For the accuracy-obsessed, quote from Buzz Rickson’s MA-1 shell fabric specs:
“36 filament yarns are twisted together to make a single thread that is then woven into the 2/2 twill fabric.
2/2 means two warp threads crossing every two weft threads, identified by diagonal lines.”
Regarding warmth, “INTERMEDIATE” in the original MA-1 nomenclature refers to the “Intermediate Zone” climate for which the garment was initially optimized, a range of 14º F ~ 50º F in a military classification of 5 climate zones at the time.
The MA-1 was also considered as a versatile year-round piece of gear in temperate climates by flight crews, worn zipped-up in Winter and un-zipped in Spring.
We decided to keep the period-correct Wool/Cotton blend (60/40) fiber interlining of the 1960s originals, and not the cheaper and lighter polyester fiber modern days substitution. This makes the BAILOUT much heftier and bulkier than contemporary fashion MA-1 type jackets out there.
For the zipper, we went with a robust vintage-style aluminum model of Coats & Clark (CC) slide fastener, instead of the expected black oxidized brass CONMAR zipper of period D-Type MA-1 jackets. CROWN was a division of Coats & Clark. Production of most CROWN fasteners (like the aluminum spring automatic lock etc) was abandoned sometime in the 1960s, deemed too complicated and too costly.
Some 30 years ago, Toyo Enterprise went through great lengths (and, I was told, hundreds of thousands of dollars in R&D and retro engineering) to faithfully reproduce several CROWN fastener models, and now owns the Trademark. These cost today about $30~$40 to produce… Kameya San was kind enough to hook us up with a few CC models for this limited edition.
We also opted to stay true to the original MA-1 jackets fit and profile, with the old school full and boxy cut, setting them apart from modernized slimmed-down versions with trimmed sleeves flooding the fashion market since the 1980s.
The BAILOUT’s classic shorter length compliments one’s natural waist, and works best with mid to high rise trousers or jeans.
This season, the recurring mfsc cloth label for our “Survival School” collection is a respectful nod to the little-known Quartermaster Research Facility (aka Natick Army Labs), a US Department of Defense organization located in Natick, Massachusetts. The “CLOTHING & TEXTILE RESEARCH UNIT” has been tasked with designing and developing anything from new uniforms/gear/fabrics/camo patterns/etc for the US military since 1952. Those guys are the real OG designers of most streetwear today.
The Mister Freedom® BAILOUT “Clothing & Textile Research Unit” labeling is concealed in the left side slash pocket.
Of course, the Mister Freedom® BAILOUT comes “unissued”, i.e. free of unearned squadron/unit patches. Should you want to go full-on Top Gun, do your thing Mav’!
Speaking of Hollywood, our subtle nod to “The Hunter” (1980) – McQueen’s final movie – with his bounty-hunter “Papa Thorson” character (pops going full circle after Josh Randall, ain’t he?!) sporting an MA-1 iteration won’t be lost on the cinephile. Papa and stunt double/friend Loren Janes are wearing the flap pocket model MIL-J8279E (E-Type) in the movie, although they may be commercial versions?
Anecdotally, “Buzz Rickson” is the name of McQueen’s character name in “The War Lover” (1962.)
The MF® x Buzz Rickson’s “BAILOUT” Flyer’s Jacket is a classic reimagined in California, USA by Mister Freedom®, designed for the man-o-style uninterested in fleeing trends, and crafted in Japan by Toyo Enterprise.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
A classic 1960s US military flight jacket pattern (MA-1) revisited, and a visual nod to colorful Jet Age astronaut jackets.
FABRIC:
A-side: Rescue out, period Mil-Specs 2/2 heavy nylon twill, “Indian” orange.
B-side: Camo out, period Mil-Specs 2/2 heavy nylon twill, 1960s USAF sage green.
Interlining: thick insulating blend of undyed 60% Wool – 40% Cotton pile fibers.
DETAILS:
* Constructed and redesigned with all period Mil-Specs patterns/fabrics/trims/snaps/zippers.
* Vintage silhouette and proportions true to authentic vintage USAF MA-1 profiles: full cut, boxy fit.
* Fully reversible: main side (A-side) is rescue (Indian orange), lining (B-side) is camo (sage green.)
* Two slanted “hand warmer” slash pockets on shell, snap closure, 35/65 Wool/Rayon blend double face brushed pocket lining.
* Two interior “map” welt pockets, snap closure, white cotton twill pocket lining.
* Quilted storm flap.
* Soft 100% wool ribbed knit collar, waistband and sleeve cuffs.
* Utility pocket (“cigarette” pocket) on A-side sleeve, authentic pen caps slots.
* Aluminum “CC” (Coats & Clark) CROWN type double-sided slide fastener (zipper), all cotton tape, leather pull tab extension for easier gloved operation.
* Intricate garment construction, authentic puckering seams, cut and sewn by skilled and experienced artisans.
* Year-round jacket, optimized for 14º F ~ 50º F (minus 10º C ~ 10º C) range temps.
* Original Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s “Clothing & Textile Research Unit” labeling, concealed in the left side slash pocket.
* Crafted in Japan by specialized expert artisans, with a 30-year experience in authentically-reproducing vintage military gear.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® x Buzz Rickson’s “BAILOUT” Flyer’s Jacket comes ready to wear out of the box. No initial process required.
MF® crew sizing recs:
CL (5’7 ~ 140 lbs): I opted for a SMALL, for a comfortable yet period fit.
John (6’ ~ 170 lbs): LARGE
Ivan (5’9 ~ 160 lbs): MEDIUM
Enoch (6’ ~ 153 lbs): SMALL
The MF® BAILOUT pretty much fits like authentic 1960s vintage MA-1 jackets, for those familiar with them.
Some people may consider sizing down, according to silhouette and subjective style preferences.
Please refer to size chart for approximate measurements, keeping in mind that due to the thickness of the shell + interlining + lining, properly measuring is somewhat subject to one’s interpretation.
CARE:
Professional DRY CLEAN only or spot clean when needed.
Do NOT machine wash/heat dry.
Because of the 100% wool knit trims and , please store garment with your choice of moth-repellent product.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
|