Mister Freedom® SEAWOLF Trousers, 57/43 Cotton/Wool Indigo Twill.
FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER
Made in Japan
The SEAWOLF Trousers are a Mister Freedom® spin on fine piece of US Navy uniform gear, a pair of vintage 1950s-60s Undress Blues — Contract No. DA-30-352-TAP-2340 in US military Quartermaster nomenclature —, yet another classic design courtesy of Uncle Sam’s “Clothing Supply Office”.
These are not the typical WW2 broadfall enlisted man issued winter trousers, but a later zipper-front model, issued I believe to Chief Petty Officers. They still feature the traditional naval wrap leg (no outseam) and wide bottoms, but the zip-fly/flat front/slash front pocket combo gives the trousers more of a dressy civvy garment vibe.
As always, we took liberty with the original military design and interpreted proportions/fit/materials/trims to our own liking. Originals from the “Naval Clothing Depot” were issued in a classic USN dense 100% wool material.
Our fabric of choice is a very fancy blend of 57% cotton and 43% wool, selvedge twill, featuring all-cotton indigo-dyed warp yarns and charcoal grey wool weft yarns. Yes, the face of the fabric is 100% cotton, the reverse is 100% wool, milled in Japan on narrow shuttle loom slow-producing machines. The selvedge ID is concealed in the two rear welt pockets facing construction.
For pocketing/lining, we opted for the 10 Oz. all-cotton indigo pincheck fabric that ties-in our SUBMARINER line-up.
The “naval” wrap leg of our SEAWOLF is a different cut from that of traditional USN denim dungarees (see our Swabbies write-up for more on the whooping 11.5’’ leg opening), with the leg flare starting at the hips — rather than the dramatic inseam curve-out at the knee of the denim models — giving our trousers more of an overall wide profile while keeping a fitted top block. The wider hip cut makes the SEAWOLF a good candidate for the stylish lady into period silhouettes and classic styles, whose ethics prevent shopping on SHEIN or the likes.
We kept the garment construction utilitarian, true to the originals, with overlocking becoming ubiquitous in 1960s garment construction. The two-piece waistband is split in the rear, with the plain (aka superimposed) seam of the seat allowing for easy alteration should one desire to take-in the waist.
The “modernized” zip-front is definitely a functional improvement over its 13-button broadfall closure system, for obvious reasons. And, in our modern world, hardly anyone will need to wrap that obsolete front flap around a ship’s mast to mend sails.
The top waist button (A) and its concealed lower companion (B) are of the classic USN fouled anchor black plastic type. We recommend buttoning B first, then A.
Style-wise, the SEAWOLF Trousers can be paired with all kinds of period naval-inspired gear (Skivvy Ts, Chambray-type work shirts, nautical-vibe sweaters, peacoats, etc…) They can also look very sharp for one exploring a moderate 1920s Oxford Bags vibe, or an elegant 1930s trousers cut.
The MF® SEAWOLF Trousers are designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
(SPECS soon)
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