“La TONKINOISE”, Double Indigo Twill.
FW2019 mfsc “Surplus” catalog.
Made in Japan.
“La TONKINOISE” is the latest spin on the original MF® design introduced during our days “in-country” sometime around 2015, as we drew inspiration from the controversial and troubled times of the Indochina and Vietnam conflicts for the “Saigon Cowboy” mfsc capsule collection.
The historical settings and Tonkinoise’s story were extensively discussed and illustrated at the time. The shirt was released in two distinct fabrics, “snow” denim and Buzz Rickson’s USN blue chambray.
If the Tonkinoise is loaded with a plethora of details borrowed from several vintage shirts revisited á la MF®, a stand-out feature is the unusual collar pattern. This was adapted from the wind-protectant high neck flippable collar of an obscure vintage US military wool shirt from our archives, sporting a “REYEM, Meyer’s Military Shops, Washington, D.C.” woven label. According to 1917-1918 advertisements from the Evening Star, archived by the Library of Congress, that shop operated at 1331 F Street, N.W. Washington, D.C.
Wouldn’t mind time-traveling for a few hours to take a peak at that shops’ 1918 inventory! Anyone with a lead on a storage facility in D.C. that might be packed with dusty stacks of NOS Meyer’s garments is encouraged to email coordinates to sales@MisterFreedomStore.com for a free bowl of soup.
Back to reality. The buttonhole placket is a fine example of tailoring prowess, all credit going to Mr. Fukutomi, the one and only, Toyo Enterprises’ renown pattern maker for the past 20 and some years. The intricate pattern of the elbow and cuff section was a nod to an old flame that “Mr. F” mastered the magic of circa 2008. Okagesame de Fukutomi San…
The arcuate shape of the back of the collar is an interesting feature lifted from vintage French shirts of the 1920’s-30’s.
Our fall 2019 interpretation of the Tonkinoise differs from the 2015 versions as snaps have replaced the front and cuffs’ corozo buttons. The collar closure has been inverted, with buttons to the left and buttonholes to the right. When fully buttoned, the collar can be folded down into a “wind-proof” type roll-neck, albeit probably not the most comfortable experience, unless you’re into stiff necks.
The fabric of choice for FW2019 comes out of a long mfsc hibernation, as it was previously introduced with the 2012 GUNSLINGER Pantaloons and GUNSLINGER Denim Jumper. This dark 12.4 Oz. “Double Indigo Twill”, with saturated purple hues, has shown its patina potential since then. We all agreed that it would be a perfect candidate for a shirt with such intricate tailoring. Panel torquing and seam puckering should make for some nice indigo contrasts with normal wash/wear routine. To tone-down a notch the elaborate detailing of the Tonkinoise, we opted for tonal stitching.
The MF® Tonkinoise Double Indigo Twill is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by obscure 1920’s-40’s military shirting and vintage custom-made uniforms.
FABRIC:
Double Indigo Twill: 100% cotton dark indigo warp x dark indigo weft, 12.4 Oz., solid white selvedge ID. Dark and saturated indigo color, with subtle purple hues.
DETAILS:
* All original mfsc pattern.
* ‘Windproof’ high button-up collar.
* Arcuate pattern on back of collar.
* Double chest pocketing, large uniform-style format.
* Intricate tailor-made type buttonhole placket construction.
* Selvedge button placket.
* Elaborate sleeve cuff/elbow reinforcement pattern, snap closure.
* Selvedge side gussets, self fabric.
* Snap button front and cuff closure, with complimenting amber brown corozo wood pocket and collar buttons.
* 100% cotton thread.
* Tonal stitching on outside, ivory contrast chainstitch on inside.
* “Surplus” mfsc woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING:
The MF® Tonkinoise shirt comes raw/un-rinsed and will shrink to tagged size after the initial rinse/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
* Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
* Spin dry and line dry.
* Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
This Tonkinoise 2019 edition is considered more like an over-shirt than a trim uniform shirt. I personally opted for a size SMALL, as the MEDIUM fit felt much too roomy. Consider sizing down for a trimmer silhouette if the measurements match your target sizing expectations. When in doubt, compare our measurements with a similar style garment you own and fits the way you like. For a comfortable fit and for layering, consider your usual size in mfsc shirting for the 2019 double indigo Tonkinoise.
Please refer to sizing chart for measurements, reflecting a 30mn cold soak/spin dry/line dry process, resulting in minimal shrinkage.
The raw measurements are given for reference only, as the numbers that actually matter are post soak. We do believe that shirts, as most washable garments, should regularly be laundered according to use.
CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling when washing. Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Potential attractive patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Please note that the dark indigo might cause color transfer, and potentially “bleed” on light-colored garments, furniture, and skin.
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)
Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
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