Mister Freedom® infos « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® P.T. HENLEY, tubular cotton jersey, “M.A.S.H”, “R&R” and “Jungle” edition. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® P.T. HENLEY, “M.A.S.H.” , “R&R” and “Jungle” Edition.
2021-22 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

By popular demand, we revisited our 2011 Gym Henley pattern, with stricter manufacturing standards and with production consistency in mind, leading to the new classic MF® P.T. HENLEY.

The original edition was released in dozens of eclectic NOS tubular jerseys, with all-over-the-place sizing and specs, and many one-of-a-kind units. Total goat rodeo. This time around, the P.T. HENLEY is exclusively cut from our “SKIVVY” all-cotton tubular jersey knit (no side seams), a fabric of MF® SKIVVY T-Shirt fame.
Fit-wise, this milled-in-USA “Skivvy” fabric has less mechanical stretch than our “STANLEY” slubby knit jersey (featured on our STANLEY T-Shirt model), resulting in a tighter, old school athletic shirt cut. For a more relaxed silhouette, one may consider sizing up.

Skivvy vs. Stanley? Both are a matter of personal preferences regarding fit/silhouette/drape, and more importantly depending on one’s body shape and proportions. Not to drop names here but, according to MF® internal records, Matt Damon went with the Stanley, so did Brad Pitt and Johnathan Majors (Lovecraft Country), while Channing Tatum opted for our Skivvy, etc… Regardless, we chose to release the P.T. Henley in the Skivvy jersey, for its tighter knit properties.

The P.T. HENLEY still features the MF® signature coverstitch/flatlock construction of our original Gym Henley. It is now available in three classic options:

a) The “M*A*S*H.” edition (a reference to the 1970 film comedy featuring the antics of the (fictitious) 4077th Mobile Army Surgical Hospital unit): White tubular body, contrast gunpowder grey needle-out jersey neckband, OD (Olive Drab) stitching and button placket facing.

b) “R&R” edition (a reference to military in-country Rest & Recuperation periods for the enlisted man, during the Korean and Vietnam conflict): White tubular body, tonal natural stitching, blue chambray button placket facing.

c) “Jungle” edition: OG-109 (Olive Green, Vietnam era) tubular body, tonal trims.

The MF® P.T. HENLEY is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% cotton tubular jersey knit. Cotton grown and fabric milled in USA.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by classic utilitarian/military knit undershirts, and vintage casual sportswear henley shirts.
* Tubular body (no side seams).
* Coverstitch/flatlock construction.
* Woven fabric button placket facing, size stamped.
* Ribbed needle-out cotton jersey neckband.
* Genuine bone buttons, vintage style cat-eye.
* ¼ sleeve, self-fabric wide cuffs.
* Original mfsc “Sportsman” woven rayon label.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® P.T. Henleys comes rinsed/tumbled dry.
The tubular jersey fabric of the MF® P.T. Henley is the same as our SKIVVY T-Shirt fabric. Identical width, with low mechanical stretch. Use your SKIVVY size.
I wear a Small for a tight fit, pure personal preference. About 5’7 , ~145 lbs. Consider sizing up for a more relaxed fit or contemporary silhouette.

CARE:
Low maintenance. Machine wash on normal cycle, cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Tumble dry or hang dry.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2022

Mister Freedom® SCUBA Utilities, “Okinawa 301” denim, mfsc SS2022 FROGSVILLE

Mister Freedom® SCUBA Utilities, “Okinawa 301” left-hand twill denim
mfsc SS2022 FROGSVILLE
Made in Japan

These came about as we were considering turning the Scuba Trunks pattern – inspired by old school UDT combat swimmer shorts – into a pair of pants. The mission? Coming up with a pair of dungarees not related to the ubiquitous 5-pocket jeans, that could have existed.

“Wanna turn shorts into pants?”, I quipped, “Here it is, Barney-style, just add legs!”

The Mister Freedom® Design Dept kindly remarked that morphing our swim trunks into a pair of practical work pants may take a few more cups of brain juice.
First, we needed front pockets for functionality, so we borrowed the patch pocket design (sandwiched in the outseam) of our Utility Trousers from 2015.
For the back of the pants, the single square pocket of the trunks felt too plain, so we tapped our Swabbies for a more visually-pleasing rear pocketing design. We also needed two pockets, to balance with the absence of back yoke, also a feature of our classic Speedways, anecdotally. The four pockets are cut using horizontal warp, in contrast with the traditional vertical warp used for the legs, which always makes for interesting fabric roping and patina.
We of course kept the no-belt loops style waist band and D-ring cinch strap, pure vintage UDT shorts legacy.

There it is. A modern day wearable blending vintage military aesthetics and utilitarian clothing functionality, as featured in the “Chairborne Commando” star-studded Hollywood blockbuster.

Our Scuba Trunks may have challenged some in the Heritage Fashion community regarding “how short can you go?”, and, incidentally puzzled a few beach goers in my coastal neighborhood for a couple of years now, but its long-legged successor, the Scuba Utes, shouldn’t raise too many eyebrows in public. At least initially. Just wait for the “sick fades” on that sweet “Okinawa 301” indigo left-hand twill denim, and watch the crowds part and jaws drop!

The MF® Scuba Utilities are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Fancy “Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo premium denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID, a Sugar Cane Co proprietary fabric. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 80% cotton and 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage military swimmers trunks and UDT shorts, US Navy dungarees, Army field trousers and other utilitarian classic garments.
* Old school high rise, classic straight leg cut.
* Adjustable waist strap with Mil-Specs double D-ring buckle, ½ inch ~ 1 inch cinch.
* Waistband facing displaying denim selvedge ID.
* No belt loops.
* Front patch pocket original pattern, sandwiched in flat-felled outseam.
* Double rear pockets, concealed selvedge ID on inside fold.
* All four pockets cut using horizontal warp, in contrast with vertical warp of legs.
* Button fly, black painted metal “donut” wreath tack buttons.
* Chainstitch seam construction.
* Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Original mfsc Frogsville woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® SCUBA Utilities are true-to-size after a cold rinse/machine spin dry/line dry.
We recommend the following simple initial process.

Cold soak garment for about 30 mn in bathtub or washing machine, with occasional hand agitation.
Spin dry (spinning cycle) if using a washing machine.
Line dry/drip dry.

The resulting stiffness of the garment is due to the reactivated starch in the denim fabric, and is normal. Stiffness will easily subside with normal wear, fabric will soften.

The D-ring waist strap allows for about ½ inch to one inch cinch. I opted for a W31 in the Scuba Utilities, fully cinched, for a comfortable fit (I wear a W32 in all models of Scuba Trunks.) I’m about 5’7 / 145-150 lbs.

CARE:
Wash when necessary, as other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the pants inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.

Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2022

Mister Freedom® SCUBA TRUNKS, mfsc 2021-22 FROGSVILLE

MF® SCUBA Trunks, 2×1 “Army” denim

MF® SCUBA Trunks, “Tiger Stripes” camo twill

MF® SCUBA Trunks, P42 “Frogskin” camo HBT

MF® SCUBA Trunks, OD/Khaki HBT

Mister Freedom® SCUBA TRUNKS
Army Denim, Tiger Stripes, Frogskin, OD HBT
mfsc 2021-22 FROGSVILLE

This here is the one garment that inspired and fired-up our entire mfsc Frogsville concept in 2021!
We had felt for a while that the iconic US military “TRUNKS, SWIMMERS” (aka “UDT shorts”) were too good of an historical piece of gear to not be revisited by heritage fashion. So we took the dive.

As the swimwear of choice of the Naval Special Warfare combat skin diver since WW2, the unique silhouette/cut (short length, high waist, double D-ring adjustable strap) has long been associated with the badassery of the Naked Warriors, UDT Frogmen and US Navy SEALs.

The characteristic style spread to other branches and MOS (Military Occupational Specialty), and was adopted by rescue swimmer schools – AIRRs (Navy Aviation Rescue Swimmers), SAR, MCCSSS (Marine Corps Water Survival School) – at times worn as PT uniform in USMC Recon Units, as daily uniform (matched with a green skivvy aboard a ship on deployment during Desert Storm source), even as General Purpose trunks.

The style was adapted from 1940’s civilian athletic/sport trunks, see vintage satin 1930s-50s belted basketball/boxing shorts. The utilitarian pattern of the trunks evolved very little though the years. The original regulation model, part of the frogman’s sea bag, were issued in khaki carded cotton chino twill, and this is how “UDT shorts” are still commonly known today.

However, vintage specimen suggest that several distinctive models and patterns were produced for the military, some more or less obscure. Trunks cut from a wide variety of fabrics also exist, showing in-the-field creativity. Those non-reg versions were usually rigger-made or tailor-made, using recycled uniforms, surplus shelter halves/ponchos, or locally-milled fabrics.
Popular in South East Asia during the Vietnam War were camo versions, flashing all kinds of disruptive patterns, a plethora of tiger stripes, Beogam, Mitchell, ERDL, etc. In-country made embroidered trunks featuring custom “moral patches”, in the non-PC “Party Suit” tradition, are coveted items for collectors today.

For our Mister Freedom® interpretation, the SCUBA Trunks, we combined details and cuts from several military-issued swim shorts from our archives, the oldest being a 1943 US Navy contract pair (NXsX-35162) issued to a “NASH, R.D”, and the most unusual one a 1940s-50s private purchase pair labelled “Frank Bros. Military Uniform and Civilian Clothing, San Antonio, TX” featuring an interesting underwear “diaper” back pattern. We applied the usual MF® twist, blended all the vintage references into a contemporary wearable garment, and, yes, steered clear of the Frank Bros style.
With updated pattern/fit/fabrics, our swim trunks are not replicas, yet respectful of the DNA of vintage military originals.

The waist strap allows for a ½ to 1 inch cinch. Many period photos of SEALs in the 1970s show the trunks being worn with the top waist button undone, belt un-cinched, waistband rolled down. This practice may show a tendency at the time to prefer a lower rise than the old 1940s high-waisted cut, amongst other concerns.

Our friend John T, of @Mosquito_Boat IG fame, a salty USMC veteran and knowledgeable preserver of military History, confirmed the practice during his time serving as a proud US Marine in the 1990s-00s, with anecdotes I won’t relate here.

Personally, the SCUBA Trunks have rapidly become my go-to PT beachwear, as hinted by the 38,779 photos on my IG feed, cosplaying as a half-naked weekend warrior peddling wares.

The MF® SCUBA TRUNKS are a re-imagined classic designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRICS:
The MF® SCUBA Trunks are available in four distinct fabric options, all milled to vintage Mil-Specs in Japan:
a) 10 Oz. “Army” 2×1 selvedge denim, 100% cotton (same fabric as our Denim Raiders Fatigues)

b) BR (Buzz Rickson’s) Gold “Tiger Stripes” camo printed all-cotton twill, 1960s-inspired TSP pattern (same fabric as our Tiger Advisor Jacket). Inside waistband cut from contrast signal orange NOS cotton twill.

c) OD/Khaki combo HBT (Herringbone Twill), 100% cotton (same fabric as our HBT Raiders Fatigues)

d) BR (Buzz Rickson’s) P42 “frogskin” double-sided camo pattern, all-cotton HBT, reversible, constructed jungle (green) side out, also wearable with beach (beige) side out (same fabric as our Map Shirt)

SPECS:
* An original MFSC pattern, inspired by vintage military Swimmers Trunks, UDT shorts, revisited in the US military tradition of in-country local-made custom garments.
* Old school high rise and short length profile.
* Adjustable waist strap with double D-ring buckle.
* Single square rear pocket.
* Button fly, classic USN-style “fouled anchor” CPO plastic buttons.
* Chainstitch seams construction.
* Tonal stitching (with “rainbow” stitch accent on the inside for the Tiger Stripes & OD HBT model, in old USN “Liberty” fashion.)
* Original mfsc Frogsville woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® SCUBA Trunks are true-to-size after a cold rinse/machine spin dry/line dry.
Although the four fabric options have varying shrinkage specifics, all four models will fit similarly after the initial rinse/dry.
We recommend the following simple initial process.

Cold soak for about 30 mn in tub or machine, with occasional hand agitation.
Spin dry (spinning cycle) if using a washing machine.
Line dry.

The D-ring waist strap allows for a one inch ~ ½ inch cinch. I wear a W32 in all models, and can get away with a W31 in the “Army” denim version. I’m about 5’7 / 145-150 lbs.
Wear underwear.

CARE:
Low maintenance. Machine wash when needed. Cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2022

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2022 FROGSVILLE-HOOPER LookBook Preview

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane Co FW2022 “FROGSVILLE R&R” collection

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane Co FW2022 “HOOPER” collection

MF® Cashmere V-neck “Terrence” Sweater ®2022

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co mfsc FW2022 Preview:

Dear Friends,

Hope this finds you well, healthy, and in good spirits.
It is that time of the year…
Here is a preview of our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane (mfsc) FW2022 collaboration, for your consideration.

Two main groupings this season:

First are a few additions to our “FROGSVILLE” theme, an original collection freely inspired by vintage UDT (Underwater Demolition Team) gear, Frogmen and US Navy SEALs, where we revisit US military rigger-made garments and exotic local-made garb. The mission is to translate 1940s-1970s references and vintage influences into modern day wearables. Our frogman is going on R&R (Rest and Recuperation) in-country this season!

This FW2022 chapter of “FROGSVILLE” consists of:

1) CHINO UTILITY TROUSERS, BR Chino twill (Japan)
* An original mfsc pattern introduced in 2015, revisited.
* Cut from Buzz Rickson’s vintage mil-specs 8.2 Oz. chino twill.

2) CRACKERJACK CPO Shirt (Japan)
* Inspired US Navy enlisted Dress Blue Jumpers recut and recycled by local tailors into civilian “souvenir” garments.
* 9.2 Oz. Melton wool.
* Navy blue / ivory white

3) MARINER SWEATER, roll-neck cable knit (Japan)
* Fisherman cable knit pattern.
* 100% cotton.
* Indigo blue / black

4a) PT Henley, original M.A.S.H. edition (USA):
* MF® original “Skivvy” knit tubular body, white.
* Contrast OD (Olive Drab) stitching, OD poplin button placket, green ox bone buttons.

4b) PT Henley, R&R edition (USA):
* MF® original “Skivvy” knit tubular body, white.
* Tonal stitching, blue chambray button placket, natural ox bone buttons.
Note: A two-pack PT Henley combo is available and comes in a special printed cardboard box packaging.

5) SHIP Cap, solid (USA)
* 6-panel pattern, snap-back, baseball cap profile, inspired by US Navy PX command ball caps.
* NOS Cotton/Linen blend selvedge denim, dark indigo blue.

6) L/S SKIVVY T-Shirt (USA)
* MF® original “Skivvy” knit Tubular body, white, long sleeve edition.
* Vintage style needle-out ribbed neckband & extended cuffs, ecru.

There it is.

Next grouping is “HOOPER”, an exciting new stylistic escapade for us, with visuals borrowed from the vintage world of motion picture stuntmen/stuntwomen, before CGI (Computer-Generated Imagery) replaced adrenalin highs and broken bones.

To briefly set our FW2022 stage, the two main characters in Quentin Tarantino 2019 “Once Upon a Time in Hollywood” (Rick Dalton played by Leonardo DiCaprio, and Cliff Booth played by Brad Pitt) were partially based on two Hollywood legends: actor Burt Reynolds (who actually started his career as a movie stuntman) and former paratrooper and professional stuntman Hal Needham.

Burt Reynolds and Hal Needham (1980)

In the 1970s, Burt Reynolds was one of America’s most popular comedy actors, and Hal Needham one of the highest paid Hollywood stuntmen. They were actually close friends in real life, and bachelor pad roommates for some 11 years.
After 46 broken bones, Needham, who often played stuntdouble for Reynolds, eventually got tired of jumping off buildings and crashing cars for a living. He decided to create his own business (Stunts Unlimited), and dreamed of actually becoming a movie director. In 1977, he wrote the B-movie “Smokey and the Bandit”, and, to convince producers, enrolled his buddy Reynolds to star in it… Screen magic happened, and against all odds, the low budget “redneck buddy” movie became a hugely-popular hit in the USA. The flick remains today an iconic piece of period Southern culture Americana captured on film.
Following this success, Needham directed the movie “Hooper, The Greatest Stuntman Alive” (1978), a tribute to his profession: the stunt doubles, actual unsung heroes of the silver screen. Again, Burt Reynolds was the leading star, playing the fictitious stuntman Sonny Hooper.
Watch “The Bandit” documentary (2016) if you get a chance.

Our FW2022 mfsc “HOOPER” capsule collection blends vintage Hollywood professional stuntmen styles (yes, with an ounce of 70s macho men open collar shirts, aviators, sideburns and gold chains!), classic western wear, 1970s-80s automotive fashion (old school NASCAR garments, Wynn’s gear, 1980s “Auto Style” jackets etc), and classic vintage car/motorcycle racing promotional garments for gearheads.

To simplify things, the usual seasonal additions to our classic made-in-USA SPORTSMAN catalog have been incorporated into the HOOPER storyline, adding an earlier 1960s-70s McQueen in Palm Spring Desert vibe.
About a two-hour drive from Los Angeles, the actor’s Palm Springs home in the California desert was his get-away and escape from the busy Hollywood life. Hot days, cool nights, relaxing around the pool or desert racing, camping trips to the Sierra Madre Mountains… some of that lifestyle was famously documented at the time by photographers William Claxton or John Dominis (LIFE, 1963).
If McQueen often insisted on performing his own stunts, frowned by the studios considering risks and insurance liability, pros like Bud Ekins (the famous jump in “The Great Escape”, 1963) or Loren Janes (the moving train stunt in “The Hunter”, 1980) were never too far.

This adds a blend of cool 60s sportswear and vintage casual suiting to our action-packed HOOPER mix.

The FW2022 “HOOPER” line-up (made in USA & Japan) consists of:
1) SONNY Puffer Vest (JP):
* Reversible, quilted, 70s style synthetic fiber filling.
* Indigo corduroy x Blue denim / Indigo corduroy x brown denim.

2) ROADEO Puffer Jacket (JP):
* Quilted, 70s style synthetic fiber filling.
* Orange x Gold nylon / Black x Brown nylon / 7 Oz. denim x chambray.

3) Five-panel FEED CAP (USA):
* 1970s style trucker hat, snap-back.
* NOS denim/white mesh.
* Solid / Patched.

4) DUDE RANCHER Shirt, Corduroy edition (JP):
* Our popular original western snap shirt pattern.
* Black / Ivory / Ruby Red / Indigo Blue.

5) CALIFORNIAN LOT.64 “OUTLAW”, Midnight denim (USA)
* The popular fit of our classic Lot.64 Californian five-pocket jeans, with western-style “frogmouth” pockets.
* 16 Oz. Midnight denim, dark indigo warp x black weft.

6) RANCH BLOUSE, “Frontier” Duck Canvas (USA)
* The classic MF® Ranch Blouse pattern in a USA-milled sturdy and dry 12 Oz. brown duck canvas.

7) Leather RANCH BLOUSE, “Bison” (USA)
* A leather version of our classic MF® Ranch Blouse pattern.
* Veg-tan cowhide, tea-core with a cognac color top coat.

8) WORKMAN Shirt, “Americana” stripes (USA)
* NOS 100% cotton woven stripe fabric, white with blue & red stripes.

9) BRONCO CHAMP Type II (USA)
* 1960s style cafe racer rider jacket, a revisited pattern from our 2009 MF® Bronco Champ original, USA-made this time.
* Cotton printed flannel lining.
* Natural veg-tan cowhide / Black tea-core veg-tan cowhide.

10) CALIFORNIAN LOT.674 “Groovy”, NOS Cone denim (USA)
* Our slimmest five-pocket jeans, slightly tapered leg, 1960s vibe silhouette, button fly.
* NOS 14 Oz. Cone blue denim.
* Groovy NOS cotton printed canvas pocketing!

11) Cashmere V-Neck “TERRENCE” Sweater (Japan)
* A classic menswear staple garment, revisited with 50s—60s style extended cuffs/waistband.
* Fancy cable knit pattern.
* 100% Mongolian Cashmere.
* NOT made in China, and in very limited quantities.
* Black / Yale Blue / Ice-Blu

12) CONTINENTAL Sportcoat & Trousers (USA)
* NOS 100% cotton “Bossa” 3×1 cross hatch denim, 11 Oz.
* Lining/Pocketing: NOS 100% cotton woven stripe fabric, white with blue & red stripes.

13) CALIFORNIAN LOT.674 and COWBOY Jacket, Corduroy Edition (USA)
* Our slimmest five-pocket jeans (slightly tapered leg) & classic trucker denim jacket pattern, for a 1960s-70s vibe silhouette.
* Vintage 60s sportswear-style 14 wale corduroy, T/C (20/80) blend.
* Brown cord: Lot.674 and Cowboy Jacket.
* Indigo Blue cord: Lot.674 and Cowboy Jacket.

Both our original “FROGSVILLE” and “HOOPER” FW2022 collections are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and exclusively manufactured in Japan and USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, in limited quantities.
Please note that the lookbook/preview features show samples, not necessarily reflecting quality/details/labeling of the upcoming production.

Voila!

As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is the Mister Freedom® on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing, original designs, and resistance to fast fashion, with styles that will easily incorporate into any existing classic wardrobe.

Thank you very much for your renewed support.

Love from Sunny California,

🌞✌🏼👴🏼🌴