“Hi-DESERT” mfsc SS2025 vintage inspiration:

“Hi-DESERT” mfsc SS2025 show, Ryogoku, Tokyo, Japan.
Sept 2024:

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2025 mfsc “Hi-DESERT” line-up:

1) MF® “PLACER” Overalls, 11 Oz. selvedge denim, SS2025 mfsc Hi-DESERT (JP)

 

2) MF® “HOMESTEADER” Shirt, NOS fabrics, SS2025 mfsc Hi-DESERT (USA)

3) MF® “WILDCAT” Zip Jacket, NOS 9 Oz. Cacao Chambray, SS2025 mfsc Hi-DESERT (USA)

 

4) MF® “SPORTSMAN” Chinos, NOS 7 Oz. Cone “Midnight” Indigo Twill, SS2025 mfsc Hi-DESERT (USA)

 

5) MF® “BRONSON” Tank Top, Tubular Cotton Knit, SS2025 mfsc Hi-DESERT (USA)

 

 

6) MF® “DJEBEL” Chinos, 11.5 Oz. Khaki Katsuragi Twill, SS2025 mfsc Hi-DESERT (JP)

 

7) MF® RANCH BLOUSE “MOJAVE”, NOS Kaihara 10 Oz. selvedge denim, SS2025 mfsc Hi-DESERT (USA)

 

8) MF® “WORKMAN” Shirt, NOS Hickory Stripe, SS2025 mfsc Hi-DESERT (USA)

 

9) MF® “TASKMASTER” Bib Apron, NOS selvedge denim combo, SS2025 mfsc Hi-DESERT (USA)

10) MF® CALIFORNIAN LOT64, 13 Oz. “Hanada” indigo denim, SS2025 mfsc Hi-DESERT (USA)

 

11) MF® STANLEY T-Shirts, Cotton Tubular Knit, SS2025 mfsc Hi-DESERT (USA)

 

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2025 “Hi-DESERT”

Inspiration/visuals:
The American DESERT, the “Devil’s Domain” (as deserts were once referred to), with a focus on the Southern California High Desert in the Morongo Basin — an area North of Palm Springs, about a three-hour drive from Los Angeles, CA. — with its iconic Joshua trees landscape and famed JTNP.
For the vibe, think “The Treasure of the Sierra Madre” meets “Cent Mille Dollars au Soleil“…

References:
* History of early CA settlers/homesteaders/prospectors/ranchers. Gold Rush, boomtowns, wildcatters, modern pioneers…
* Mojave Desert mythical lore, mostly compiled from “desert rat raconteur” Ken Layne’s Desert Oracle radio show/podcast/books/rants on the subject.
* Desert environmentalists and nature writers such as Minerva Hamilton Hoyt or John C. Van Dyke…
* The Mojave wilderness filmed history as Hollywood’s closest scenic background to the Sahara Desert landscape of North Africa: silents movies, “Sahara” (1943), some of the Star Trek chapters, Valkyrie (2008) etc…

Historical bits:
Following the Westward Expansion sparked by President Thomas Jefferson in 1803, Abraham Lincoln signed the Homestead Act in 1862, a new law allowing US citizens in the Union to file a claim on unsettled acreage of public land. The filing “homesteader” party was to pay a small fee, commit to live on the land and improve it. More than 270 million acres — up to 160 acres per claim — were distributed that way. (1 square mile = 640 acres)
The American Desert was definitely not the destination of choice, as it was still an unwelcoming wilderness and isolated wasteland in the early 20th Century. No water, no roads, harsh weather, no agriculture, rattle snakes and scorpions for companionship, coyotes for the soundtrack, … , still considered the “Lands that God forgot.”

The Small Tract Act of 1938 — intended to dispose of smaller parcels of unimproved public land (specifically in the California Hi-Desert deemed worthless/useless at the time) —  implemented a similar strategy: 5$ deposit on a claim, with the commitment to improve the land within 3 years (= build a camp, cabin, home, business etc.)
After 3 years, the homesteader who “proved up” was able to purchase the leased parcel, for about $10~$20/acre. Many homesteaders were WW2 veterans returning from the war. The Hi-Desert and its clean air had previously been a destination for WW1 vets recovering from mustard-gas poisoned lungs, specifically the Twentynine Palms area.
These small 5 acres leases were called “Jackrabbit Homesteads”, because the cabins provided the only shade available for local fauna, such as jackrabbits. Some still stand today in the California Mojave Desert.
Joshua Tree was designated National Monument in 1936 — greatly due to the convincing efforts of witty and wealthy environmentalist Minerva Hamilton Hoyt — to eventually becoming a National Park in 1994.
The area is a busy international tourist destination today, dragging some 3 million visitors yearly.
The famed US Marine Corps Base Twentynine Palms was established in 1957, today one of the largest US military training areas, a very challenging deployment for Marines due to the climate and terrain.

Our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2025 “Hi-DESERT” line-up:
Imagined wearables inspired by 1920s~1950s vintage workwear meets classic menswear styles, with a French twist.
Production emphasis on utilizing New Old Stock (NOS) fabrics, turning vintage left-over yardage into new garments, thus limiting textile waste and saving resources.
Not a greenwashing move but I do believe that perfectly fine unused textiles (aka NOS) do not belong in landfills, a little-known common practice by major players in the garment industry to “solve” over-production.

1) MF® “PLACER” Overalls (JP):
ETA: TBD
Pattern: Inspired by several pairs of 1930s~40s denim overalls, notably a rare vintage pair of the “Union Special” brand (Hawaiian clothing manufacturer founded in 1922.)
Fabric: 11 Oz. selvedge 2×1 denim, dark indigo warp x grey weft, milled in Japan.
Specs:
* Intricate pocketing pattern.
* Exposed fabric selvedge throughout.
* Multi slot bib pocket.
* Buckle-back cinch.
* Button fly, brass donut type.
* Contrast triple stitch construction.
* Red bartack accents.
* Brass mfsc-branded waist tack buttons.
* 1930s-style adjustment clasps.
* Ankle cinching snap tabs (for cycling etc)
* Rear pockets locked in side seams, “M” stitch.
Sizing: CL wear W30
Notes: The term “Placer” comes from a simple technique of extracting gold from river beds, popular during the 1848 California Gold Rush. Gold is heavier than rocks, so the precious metal was sifted twirling sand/gravels/water by a single individual (sometimes with one partner) in a rudimentary prospector’s pan. Unlike hard rock mining, placer mining required no machinery, just hard work and optimism.

2) MF® “HOMESTEADER” Shirt (USA):
ETA: TBD
Pattern: Modified band collar version of the Mister Freedom® “Sportsman Shirt” pattern, inspired by classic 1920s-50s workwear shirting and vintage menswear fashion. Our spin on 1920s~30s detachable collar shirts.
Fabric:
a) NOS Cone Mills indigo jacquard, 100% cotton, 6.5 Oz.
b) NOS “Turkey Red” calico, discharge print, 100% cotton.
Specs:
* Band collar w/ narrow chin strap.
* Inverted box-pleat chest pockets.
* Vintage 1920s French glass buttons.
* Shoulder yoke expansion pleats.
* Indigo poplin facing and side gussets.
* Chainstitch construction.
Sizing: CL wears Small.
Notes: name reference to California Mojave Desert “Jackrabbit Homestead”.

3) MF® “WILDCAT” Zip Jacket (USA):
ETA: TBD
Pattern: Inspired by a vintage 1940s whipcord zip-front jacket, garage/gas/service station type.
Fabric: NOS “Cacao” chambray, brown warp x white weft, 9 Oz., 100% cotton, milled in Italy. (Same fabric as the FW2018 Berkeley Shirt.)
Specs:
* Fully unlined, clean flat-felled/caballo seam construction.
* Period waist length.
* Elbow patches.
* 1930s-style metal zipper.
* Waist cinch tabs.
* Corozo wood buttons.
Sizing: CL wears 36.
Notes: a “wildcatter” is a prospector drilling for oil in unlikely places (= high risks but potential high reward.)
“Wildcat territory” refers to an area that attracts drilling mavericks, whether individuals or corporations.
Oil was never found in San Bernardino County (Mojave High Desert), but early 1900s rumors from the field about a potential “Oil Boom” have attracted wildcatters, see “Kramer has struck oil!”
Our “Wildcat” carries the vibe of 1930s garage/gas/service station type jackets.
This is also a long-reached reference to my Dad who worked in Algeria for the CPA (Compagnie des Pétroles d’Afrique, an oil-extracting venture in North Africa) in the late 1950s, as a drilling scout in the Sahara Desert. He was then hired by Shell Oil in its Alger HQ, met my Mum who was a French Algeria-born Pieds-Noirs. They lived in Algeria until 1962, when the country won its independence from metropolitan France after a fierce and controversial period.

4) MF® SPORTSMAN “Midnight” Chinos (USA):
ETA: TBD
Pattern: Our classic Sportsman Chinos pattern, inspired by vintage 1940’s-50’s cotton twill work pants and classic mens trousers tailoring.
Fabric: NOS Cone Mills “Midnight” twill, indigo warp x black weft, 7 Oz., milled in USA. (Same fabric as the SS2023 Ranger Shirt.)
Specs:
* Classic mid-waist silhouette.
* Button fly, corozo wood.
* Buckle back cinch strap.
* NOS fabric pocketing, discharge print.
Sizing: CL wears W30
Notes: Our Sportsman Chinos and Continental Trousers feature similar design details, but differ fit-wise. While the top block is comparable on both models, the Sportsman Chinos are cut with a more generous 40s/50s-style leg, and the Continental Trousers have a slimmer leg profile. The choice is a matter of one’s personal style preferences and body type.

5) MF® “BRONSON” Tank Top (USA):
ETA: TBD
Pattern: Inspired by a vintage 1947 US Army OD undershirt.
Fabric: Our original “Stanley” T-Shirt tubular knit, slubby and lightweight, 100% cotton. Three colors: White/Navy Blue/“Jungle” Green.
Specs:
* Period fit and construction.
* Narrow old-school straps
* “Single needle” hem.
Sizing: CL wears Small
Notes: name is a reference to American actor Charles Bronson, sporting an OD specimen as the “Tunnel King” in “The Great Escape” (1963), a white one in Hard Times (1975), etc…

6) MF® “DJEBEL” Chinos (JP):
ETA: TBD
Pattern: inspired by a pair of vintage local-made French military M52 Khaki Chinos modified/cut in a “Sarouel” style (pleated front, cinched bottom leg) — probably tailor-made in North Africa in the mid 1950s for a Spahi or French Foreign legion NCO — combined with the construction of both early and late regulation M52 patterns.
Fabric: Khaki “Katsuragi” Twill, 11.5 Oz., 100% cotton, milled in Japan. “Katsuragi” is a fancy weave (7×7 twisted threads) with a distinct 3×1 denim-like warp/weft thick twill pattern — very close to that of vintage French military chinos — and completely different from the tightly-woven sheen of vintage US Mils-Specs chino twills.
Specs:
* Pleated front.
* Ankle cinch band.
* Trapezoid beltloops.
* Single rear pocket.
* Indigo pincheck pocket bags.
* Button fly, “cat-eye” corozo wood.
* Chainstitch construction.
Sizing: CL wears W30
Notes: another reference to the Sahara Desert of Algeria.
French troops (including French Foreign Legion) stationed in the Algerian French protectorate from 1830 to 1962 adopted the style of a local garment in their uniform: the Sarouel (spellings differ), featuring a heavily-pleated front, with a baggy silhouette drastically-cinched around the ankle.
Our more knickerbockers-influenced interpretation is based on a 1950s tailor-made pair of M52 khaki twill trousers, customized into a sarouel-type style. Probably made for a non-com officer at the time, considering the cost of custom tailoring. For the top block, our design combines early and late M52 patterns.
The Arabic term djebel refers to North Africa Kabylie mountain ranges, where my Dad spent his 12 month-military service duty in 1956.
Some family photos as previous blogpost illustration here and here.
Anecdotally, this style/cut is reminiscent of Nikka-Zubbon aka Tobi trousers worn by construction workers and steeplejacks in Japan, to this day.

7) MF® RANCH BLOUSE “Mojave” (USA):
ETA: TBD
Pattern: Our classic Ranch Blouse, in a 1930s~40s style 2×1 denim, with all tonal stitching.
Fabric: NOS Kaihara selvedge denim, 2×1, 10 Oz., dark indigo warp x grey weft, milled in Japan.
Specs:
* The usual deets.
* Tonal black stitching.
* Black donut wreath tack buttons.
Sizing: CL wears 36.

8) MF® “WORKMAN” Shirt (USA):
ETA: TBD
Pattern: a staple from our Sportsman catalog, introduced in 2015, inspired by classic 1940s-50s workwear shirting.
Fabric: NOS selvedge indigo/white hickory stripe twill, about 6. Oz., USA.
Specs:
* The usual deets.
* Bone buttons.
Sizing: CL wears Medium.

9) MF® “TASKMASTER” Bib Apron (USA):
ETA: TBD
Pattern: Inspired by vintage 1940s~60s selvedge denim workwear bib aprons, featuring an all original bib construction — hem displaying the denim fabric reverse — and our Californian patched pocket.
Fabric: We will be mixing NOS selvedge denims with this pattern, body/pocket and beltloop straps, in an effort to fully utilize all remnants of vintage denim yardage and unused previous mfsc production denim fabrics from our stock.
Specs:
* Vintage utilitarian protective gear style.
* Original bib construction.
* Selvedge sides.
* MF® Californian bib pocket, “M” stitch + leather patch.
* Five-pocket beltloop strips from previous productions of Californians recycled as tie-up waist straps and D-ring neck strap.
* Brass eyelets and copper rivets.
Sizing: One size fits all. The widths of our left-over yardage of premium shuttle loom selvedge denims usually varies from 29’’~32’’, and will dictate the width of the apron.
Notes: The MF® Taskmaster will put you to work with chores and hobbies, gardening, cooking, pottery-making, etc… Guaranteed to age gracefully with repeat wear.

10) MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 “HANADA” (USA):
ETA: TBD
Pattern: our classic Californian Lot64 cut.
Fabric: “Hanada” indigo selvedge denim, 13 Oz., milled in Japan.
Specs:
* The usual deets.
* NOS hickory stripe pocket bags.
Sizing: CL wears W30.
Notes: The Japanese term “hanada-iro” refers to a specific lighter shade of indigo color.

11) MF® STANLEY T-Shirts, new colors! (USA):
ETA: Available now!
Pattern: Our classic Stanley cut.
Fabric: Our original “Stanley” T-Shirt tubular knit, slubby and lightweight, 100% cotton. Four new colors from the pastel palette: Desert Sand/Sky Blue/Coral Pink/Seafoam Green.
Specs:
* The usual deets.
Sizing: CL wears Small.

Ta-da… that’s a wrap, friends!

Our original SS2025 Hi-DESERT mfsc collection is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and exclusively manufactured in Japan and USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, in limited quantities.
Please note that above SS2025 lookbook/preview features show samples, not necessarily reflecting quality/fit/details/labeling of the upcoming production.

As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is the Mister Freedom® on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing, original designs, and resistance to fast fashion, with styles that will easily incorporate into one’s existing classic wardrobe.
Ms. Jordan GRABOW [email protected] will be sending you a personal email shortly with all that is needed to proceed with ordering, should you see an old rag that catches your eye for your retail audience.
As always, I know that you, as an entrepreneur and as the curator of your own boutique, have many options in selecting menswear apparel to match your aesthetics, ethics, and price point.
We are therefore particularly grateful to the discerning few who have chosen to give our humble Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane collaborations proper exposure through the years, sharing our passion with your own customers in your slice of the World, and making us look good since 2007.
Jordan will take it from there, you are in good hands.

Thank you very much for your renewed support.

Love from Sunny California,

c & Taskmaster Joe

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024