Mister Freedom® PIONEER Jacket, 16 Oz. MIDNIGHT denim edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.
The Mister Freedom® PIONEER Jacket is our take on classic westernwear men’s jackets, a style popular in the 1950s-60s.
Labels such as “Pioneer Wear”, “Lasso”, “Trego’s Westwear”, “Land-N-Lakes” and others, all produced models with a similar design, feeding the demand for the “urban cowboy” look.
The fashionable western jacket style basically merged two worlds, the classic tailored menswear high lapel roll single-breasted blazer with the iconic western yoke design. The jackets reconciled rugged Wild West/dude ranch with city slicker fashions, without falling into Grand Ole Opry flashy stage garb. The commun thread was the appeal of the vanished “open range” in American psyche, still glamorized by Hollywood at the time.
The outdoor vibe of those western blazers was enhanced by the choice of fabrics, preferably a trade blanket type, woodsman style wool plaid, or other “frontier days” textile references. The functional expansion pleats “sport back” construction of 1950s models added to the utilitarian vibe.
By the 1970s, popular culture viewed truckers as “the last of the cowboys”, and many wildcatters donned their own mix of western fashion, the inspiration behind our 2020 Truck Stop collection.
We put all the Americana influences above in the MF® blender, and came up with our own hybrid, the PIONEER Jacket. We settled on a specific top block western yoke arcuate, scalloped pocket flaps and swing-back pattern combination. We opted for no padding for a deconstructed silhouette.
Following the wool shadow plaid release, this version of the PIONEER Jacket features an old favorite of ours, the mighty 16 Oz. “Midnight” denim. This hefty dark indigo warp & black weft selvedge twill, milled in Japan, previously appeared on the popular 2015 Caban Peacoat and 2019 Midnight Ranch Blouse & Lot64MD Californian. The fading and patina potential of this fabric is quite phenomenal, as indigo rubs on car seats and sofas testify.
The lining consists of a 100% cotton woven plaid typical of vintage workwear heavy flannels, initially milled by Sugar Cane Co as shirting material.
For front closure, we opted for our original MF®-branded Californian Blue Jeans tack buttons, in brass finish. These classic buttons, usually associated with five-pocket jeans and trucker jackets, give our suit jacket-like midnight denim PIONEER somewhat of a 60s-70s vibe.
The Mister Freedom ® PIONEER jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Shell: Hefty 16 Oz. “Midnight” denim, dark indigo warp & black weft twill, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
Lining: 100% cotton woven plaid heavy flannel, mustard/black/natural dominant. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original pattern inspired by vintage westernwear jackets designed for the 1950s-60s urban cowboy.
* Deconstructed silhouette.
* High lapel roll.
* Western arcuate yoke on front/back top block.
* Swing-back expansion pleats construction.
* Original MF® Californian Blue Jeans tack buttons, brass finish.
* Scalloped pocket flaps with plaid flannel facing accents and snap closure.
* Fabric selvedge displayed on welt pocket facing.
* Original mfsc “Truck Stop” woven label.
* Designed in California.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The PIONEER Jacket Midnight denim edition comes UN-WASHED (raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation (No machine cycle)
- Washing machine spin dry.
- Wear briefly to set creases and to mold the garment to your body, then hang until fully dry. The arms are cut quite long on this jacket, and the length can easily be adjusted at this stage by folding cuff fabric on the inside, as if pulled by the loose lining. The creased cuffs will basically be set in place when the jacket has dried.
Please note that this Midnight denim is a heavy and stiff twill in its raw state, and will dry to an even stiffer state following the above routine. Caused by the re-activated fabric starches necessary at the milling stage, this stiffness is normal, characteristic of raw denim and garments that are not factory-distressed.
This initial stiffness will gradually subside with normal wear, and plays an important role in the development of an attractive natural patina overtime.
The PIONEER Jacket “Midnight” edition is considered true-to-size. We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets. If you are a 38 in our Ranch Blouse or Campus pattern (granted they are pears and apples), you are most-likely a 38 in the PIONEER Midnight edition.
I opted for a 38 (Medium), for a comfortable fit following a cold-soak/line-dry. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements. We recommend comparing these measurements to those of a jacket of a similar style that fits you well. This is how we measure.
CARE:
This denim garment is stiff, quite heavy when wet, and bulky, so we do not recommend using a home washing machine for cleaning. Washing cycles will cause unattractive marbling of the denim fabric, and may damage both the garment and the machine, even on delicate setting.
When necessary, we recommend hand-washing. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Available Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® DEPUTY Britches, 16 Oz. MIDNIGHT denim edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.
To complete your Midnight wildcatter tuxedo, we included a new trousers’ pattern in the 2020 Truck Stop line-up.
The MF® Deputy Britches draw from the same design background as the Pioneer Jacket, blending rugged Wild West imagery and dude ranch styles with city slicker fashions, for that “urban cowboy” vibe popular in the 1950s-60s.
Again, we put all kinds of vintage westernwear Americana influences in the MF® blender, and came up with the DEPUTY Britches. The moniker is a quaint reference to State Troopers, aka Smokey Bear in CB lingo, the 1970’s pop culture outlaw trucker’s nemesis.
The western vibe of these trousers is mostly conveyed by the characteristic “cowboy” yoke belt loops and matching rear pocket closure tabs with traditional mother-of-pearl western snaps. The characteristic frogmouth front pocket pattern is a classic detail often seen on early riding apparel. We have played around with this pocket concept in the past, with mfsc oldies such as the MF® Vaqueros, Buckaroos, or Conductor Slacks.
Our DEPUTY Britches lean more on the fancy tailor-made trousers side than on plain utilitarian garb, but design and silhouette are both subtle enough to not fall into cosplay, unless you opt for a belt buckle the size of a frisbee.
The fabric is an old favorite of ours, the mighty 16 Oz. “Midnight” denim. This hefty dark indigo warp & black weft selvedge twill, milled in Japan, previously appeared on the popular 2015 Caban Peacoat and 2019 Midnight Ranch Blouse & Lot64MD Californian set. The fading and patina potential of this fabric is quite phenomenal, as indigo rubs on car seats and sofas testify.
The pocketing inevitably matches the Midnight Pioneer Jacket lining, and consists of a 100% cotton woven plaid typical of vintage workwear heavy flannels, a fabric initially milled by Sugar Cane Co as shirting material.
For waistband closure, we opted for an original MF®-branded 1950s-style brass snap, recently introduced with the Maverick. Inspired by vintage Levi’s rough-out leather jacket closures, the snap waist button reenforces the 60s-70s vibe of the midnight denim DEPUTY and PIONEER tuxedo.
The use of a zip fly hints at 1960s dude ranch wear, and features a classic vintage-style brass “Gripper Zipper” pull and all-cotton tape.
The Mister Freedom® DEPUTY Britches are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Hefty 16 Oz. “Midnight” denim, dark indigo warp & black weft twill, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
Pocketing: 100% cotton woven plaid heavy flannel, mustard/black/natural dominant. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original pattern inspired by vintage westernwear trousers and riding apparel designed for the 1950s-60s urban cowboy.
* Fancy tailor-made trousers construction.
* Frogmouth-type front pocket pattern.
* Western yoke belt loops.
* Rear pocket tabs with mother-of-pearl snaps.
* Fabric selvedge featured on rear welt pocket facing.
* Black cotton twill waistband lining.
* Woven plaid cotton flannel pocket bags.
* Zip fly featuring a vintage-style brass metal zipper with “Gripper Zipper” pull.
* Original vintage-style MF® branded brass snaps waist button closure.
* Tonal all cotton stitching.
* Original mfsc “Truck Stop” woven label.
* Designed in California.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The DEPUTY Britches in Midnight denim come UN-WASHED (raw) and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation (No machine cycle)
- Washing machine spin dry.
- Line dry.
Please note that this Midnight denim is a heavy and stiff twill in its raw state, and will dry to an even stiffer state following the above routine. Caused by the re-activated fabric starches necessary at the milling stage, this stiffness is normal, characteristic of raw denim and garments that are not factory-distressed. This initial stiffness will gradually subside with normal wear, and plays an important role in the development of an attractive natural patina overtime.
The DEPUTY Britches Midnight edition are considered true-to-size and feature a classic straight leg, generous waist, mid-high rise and overall comfortable silhouette. I opted for a W30, for a relaxed fit following a cold-soak/line-dry. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements. We recommend comparing these measurements to those of a jacket of a similar style that fits you well. This is how we measure.
CARE:
This denim garment is stiff, quite heavy when wet, and bulky, so we do not recommend using a home washing machine for cleaning. Washing cycles will cause unattractive marbling of the denim fabric, and may damage both the garment and the machine, even on delicate setting.
When necessary, we recommend hand-washing. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Available RAW (unwashed):
Waist 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® PIONEER Jacket, 21¼ Oz. wool shadow plaid edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.
The Mister Freedom® PIONEER Jacket is our take on classic westernwear men’s jackets, a style popular in the 1950s-60s.
Labels such as “Pioneer Wear”, “Lasso”, “Trego’s Westwear”, “Land-N-Lakes” and others, all produced models with a similar design, feeding the demand for the “urban cowboy” look.
The fashionable western jacket style basically merged two worlds, the classic tailored menswear high lapel roll single-breasted blazer with the iconic western yoke design. The jackets reconciled rugged Wild West/dude ranch with city slicker fashions, without falling into Grand Ole Opry flashy stage garb. The commun thread was the appeal of the vanished “open range” in American psyche, still glamorized by Hollywood at the time.
The outdoor vibe of those western blazers was enhanced by the choice of fabrics, preferably a trade blanket type, woodsman style wool plaid, or other “frontier days” textile references. The functional expansion pleats “sport back” construction of 1950s models added to the utilitarian vibe.
By the 1970s, popular culture viewed truckers as “the last of the cowboys”, and many wildcatters donned their own mix of western fashion.
We put all those influences in the MF® blender, and came up with our hybrid, the PIONEER Jacket. We settled on a specific top block western yoke arcuate, scalloped pocket flaps and swing-back pattern combination. We opted for no padding for a deconstructed silhouette.
This version of the PIONEER features a vintage-inspired shadow plaid heavy wool fabric with a soft hand recently-developed by our friends at Sugar Cane, who know a thing or two about timeless textiles. The lining also highlights SC’s expertise at re-milling Americana classics, and consists of a 100% cotton woven plaid typical of vintage workwear heavy flannel shirts.
The jacket is complimented by classic woven (genuine) leather shank buttons, for an extra layer of westerner out-on-the-town goodness.
The Mister Freedom ® PIONEER jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Shell: Heavy 21.25 Oz. soft-hand wool fabric, shadow plaid with dominant black/blue/grey. Milled in Japan.
Lining: 100% cotton woven plaid heavy flannel, natural/navy/red dominant. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original pattern inspired by vintage westernwear jackets designed for the 1950s-60s urban cowboy.
* Deconstructed silhouette.
* High lapel roll.
* Western arcuate yoke on front/back top block.
* Swing-back expansion pleats construction.
* Scalloped pocket flaps with plaid flannel facing accents.
* Woven (genuine) leather shank buttons.
* Original mfsc “Truck Stop” woven label.
* Designed in California.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The PIONEER Jacket comes ready-to-wear and does not require any pre-treatment or soaking.
This jacket is considered true-to-size. We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets. If you are a 38 in our Ranch Blouse or Campus pattern (granted they are pears and apples), you are most-likely a 38 in the PIONEER.
Note that the vertical mechanical stretch of this specific heavy wool woven plaid fabric is quite noticeable when you pull down on the jacket’s front & back panels, giving about an inch play with an average “natural recovery” (= the fabric’s ability to return to its initial size after being stretched.)
I opted for a medium, for a comfortable fit. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements. Do consider the thickness of the shell/lining combo and mechanical stretch when comparing these measurements to those of a jacket of a similar style that fits you well.
CARE:
Professional dry clean ONLY, from your local eco-friendly facility.
Available Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® “NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” (NCT) CHINOS, 12Oz “301 Okinawa” SC denim.
FW2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” catalog.
Made in JAPAN.
This pattern was part of the original line-up of the small grouping that somewhat managed to put us on the fashion map sometime in 2008, i.e. the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” (NCT) capsule collection.
For the nostalgics, we still unearth remnants from our ship’s stowage occasionally, a misplaced stack here, mislabeled box there, and we update inventory with New Old Stock (NOS).
A reissue of the original chino twill model was released for our 2016 mfsc ten-year anniversary, and we have issued several iterations of that pattern through the years.
Our NCT Chinos are inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, a pattern plausibly revisited by a Naval Base tailor at some point, featuring a mix of period Mil-Specs and fancy civvy custom tailoring. The cut is fairly representative of our early days, featuring a slimmer leg and lower rise than military originals. We were at the time morphing the high-waisted and baggy cuts of 1930s-40s utilitarian designs with European tailored silhouettes. Most of our bottoms today feature a higher rise than our NCT Chinos.
For Fall 2020, we are introducing a denim model of the NCT Chinos pattern, cut from an old mfsc favorite, a 12Oz. “301 Okinawa” selvedge denim exclusively developed and trademarked by Sugar Cane Co in Japan. That special Left Hand Twill (LHT) denim has been milled in several fabric weights by SC through the years, but consistently consists of a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. The sugar cane fibers, a by-product of the sugar cane industry, are responsible for the slubby and “hairy” quality of the twill, and, full disclaimer, we have heard stories about customers plucking out prickly fibers in the weave with tweezers!
One of the more desirable characteristics of this premium denim is the combination of both a dark indigo warp and rapid fading ability. MF® OG denimheads will attest to the rewarding patina potential of the Okinawa denim family.
The pocket bags are cut from an old mfsc classic fabric, a fancy striped ticking twill inspired by antique French textiles. For a subdued demeanor, we kept the stitching tonal and opted for black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons for the fly and waistband.
The decorative arcuate stitch on the slash and welt pocket openings is a detail borrowed from early European tailoring. The leg construction uses flat-felled seams and the Okinawa selvedge is displayed in each pocket facing.
The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos “Okinawa” denim edition, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co in Japan.
FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers, custom-made military garments and early European tailoring.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Designed in USA.
* Made in JAPAN.
SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos in “Okinawa” denim come RAW/unwashed. The garment is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. The denim will shrink to tagged size after an initial cold soak.
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
- Washing machine spin dry.
- Line dry. (No heat dryer)
I opted for a W32 for a comfortable fit. I hemmed my pair to my preferred length with a traditional 1¾ fold. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
CARE:
Wash when necessary, using appropriate methods pertaining to premium denim.
We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, as the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® “PRIVATEER” Rollneck Sweater, Indigo and Ecru Cotton Rib Knit.
FW2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus”.
Made in Japan.
The pattern of the MF® PRIVATEER Rollneck is inspired by an older crew neck casual cotton sweater from our archives, to which we mounted a classic high rolled collar, turtleneck or rollneck, giving the resulting hybrid its nautical vibe.
Vintage prototype of the MF® PRIVATEER (rollneck is Photoshopped in) with pattern edits ©2020
We kept the textured 1×1 “fisherman” rib knit of the original, along with the raglan sleeve construction, but extended the seamless cuffs and bottom webbing for an older sweater vibe. The overall proportions were tweaked for a shorter vintage silhouette that pairs well with high-waisted pants.
We opted for 100% cotton knit, a more SoCal-friendly and less allergy-inducing option than traditional rollneck wool sweaters. Our PRIVATEER is definitely not intended as a contender to a wool submariner’s jumper in the warmth department, but is rather devised as a casual mid-season piece for temperate climates, leading to extra playtime disguised as Captain Haddock in Sunny California.
The original sample that inspired our PRIVATEER was pure white and we chose to hand-dye it indigo during R&D. We liked the results, so for production, we settled on two color options: a specific warm tone of ecru matched from an old vintage Aran sweater, and the medium indigo blue shade matched from our back-yard dyed prototype.
The MF® PRIVATEER is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
100% cotton 1×1 rib knit, “fisherman” rib pattern or “Brioche” stitch type.
Two color options:
1) “Aran” ecru.
2) Indigo blue.
SPECS:
* An original hybrid mfsc pattern, inspired by casual sweaters and vintage nautical jumpers.
* Single fold ribbed rollneck.
* “Fisherman” rib knit stitch body.
* 100% cotton knit.
* Raglan sleeve pattern with contrast rib pattern mounting.
* Large seamless ribbed waistband.
* Foldable extended and seamless ribbed cuffs.
* Original mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in JAPAN.
SIZING/FIT:
The PRIVATEER Rollneck, in both ecru and indigo, comes pre-shrunk and is ready-to-wear as-is. No soaking required.
This garment is considered true-to-size. I opted for a medium, for a comfortable fit.
The specific “Fisherman” rib allows horizontal (crosswise) stretch, with good natural recovery (= the knit’s ability to return to its initial size after being stretched.)
Therefore, measurements can be misleading, as with all stretchy knit garments.
We do recommend sticking to your usual MF® size with the PRIVATEER Rollneck. If you are a Medium in mfsc shirting, you are more-likely a Medium in this sweater, regardless of our chart measurements. The arms might feel a bit snug and first, and pulling your head though the neck might feel a bit tight, but the sweater will settle naturally after a few minutes of wear.
I am wearing a chambray Snipes shirt underneath a Medium PRIVATEER in the fit photos, and am 5’7 approx 150Lbs.
CARE:
Turn sweater inside out. Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Air dry flat on a clean towel, or hang dry on a well-padded hanger to avoid shoulder stretching.
Light fuzzing or piling may occur temporarily and will subside.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.
Available PRE-SHUNK
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
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