Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Snap Shirt, “101” selvedge denim edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.
Riding shotgun with the Rubber Duck for Fall 2020 is our DUDE RANCHER in a new skin, a nice and dry indigo denim twill. We are calling it “101” in reference to the famous U.S. Route 101 – or 101 freeway as it is called in So Cal – and as a nod to the bygone Montgomery Ward “101” Powerhouse workwear brand.
This 7.25 Oz. 2 x 1 selvedge twill is reminiscent of vintage Lee-Levi’s-Wrangler denim snap shirts, and enhanced by our choice of yellow/orange combo contrast stitching.
Our DUDE RANCHER pattern, previously released in black and white broadcloth (cotton poplin), printed shadow plaid, light indigo vat-dye chambray, and “Joan” woven plaid, is a Mister Freedom® spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. The design features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
The shirts buttons are painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.
The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “101” denim is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
A dry 100% cotton indigo blue denim, 7.25 Oz., solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Yellow/orange combo contrast stitching.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The “101” Denim DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
I personally opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit, sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Note that this denim version of the DUDE RANCHER features slightly longer tails and arms than previous versions.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CHART
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Snap Shirt, “Joan” plaid flannel edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.
Head over to Sesame Street, and get your ears on, Bubba! Imagine this CB convo:
A: “Breaker one-nine this here’s the Rubber Duck for that WATER HOLE capsule out of Shaky City. Put an eyeball on it good buddy! You gotta copy on me, C’mon?”
B: “That’s a 10-4 Rubber Duck, affirmative. Mercy sakes alive she’s a looker!
Well, looks like I got Evel Knievel on my donkey now, so i’ll back off the hammer. You too lil’ brother, stick to the double nickel, word is Kojak with a Kodak was spotted around your 20… Don’t feed the bears!”
A: “10-4 Bubba. Threes and eights. Keep the shiny side up. Over out.”
As a Four-Wheeler (a non-trucker) you probably missed a bit of the above exchange… But we’ve all watched Convoy and had the soundtrack as an ear worm at some point, and maybe made a few attempts at going full-on Rachet Jaw at karaoke? To brush-up on your 1970s Citizens Band (CB) radio lingo, here are a few clues to decode that convo:
Sesame Street: Channel 19, the “trucker channel” on CB radio.
Breaker One-Nine: prepping line when interrupting an ongoing convo on channel 19.
Rubber Duck: head vehicule of a convoy.
Water Hole: period slanguage for a highway Truck Stop.
Shaky City: Los Angeles.
10-4: copy that.
Double Nickel: 55 mph lane, speed limits fluctuate.
Evel Knievel on my donkey: motorcycle cop behind me.
10-20: one’s location
Bears: law enforcement in general.
Threes and eights: good luck/take care.
Keep the shiny side up: Safe driving, and keep the greasy side down.
Got a copy, good buddy?
Check out the “Over The Road” podcast and particularly this episode about the Trucking Industry history in the US, its place in American life, clarifying the concept of Wildcatters (aka independent trucker, owner operator, “gypsy”, scale-dodging outlaws with CB handles like “Bandit”, “Lone Ranger” etc) vs. Teamsters (Union drivers, more likely to be wearing company uniforms than western duds). The world of truckers – drivers as they refer to themselves, considered by some as the last of the cowboys – has also greatly contributed to American pop culture through the years, blessing us with no less than three volumes of Smokey and the Bandit, and other silver screen gems.
The 1979 documentary “On the Boulevard” gives a rare real-life glimpse of that industry at the time. The costume history-inclined can also find colorful period fashion statements in vintage Overdrive Magazine issues.
Now, about our shirt…
This iteration of our Dude Rancher shirt pattern leads the convoy (see what I did there) and introduces the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Fall 2020 mfsc “TRUCK STOP” collection. This capsule draws inspiration from the colorful world of the American independent trucker, with Mid-West style influences spanning 1950s to 1970s.
The DUDE RANCHER pattern is our spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. It features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
Our shirt features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.
The MF® Dude Rancher is already available in fine black and white broadcloth (cotton poplin), in a vibrant printed shadow plaid, and a light indigo vat-dye chambray.
We are introducing a new fabric this fall, an original plaid milled exclusively for us in Japan, and inspired by a beautiful 1950s Levi’s longhorn western shirt, belonging to a “Joan Saxe”, obviously a woman with exquisite tastes.
 The vintage inspiration behind the fabric of the MF® Dude Rancher “Joan” plaid flannel. Our interpretation of that vintage textile is a selvedge 8.25 Oz. woven plaid cotton flannel, with red and white dominant tones, and featuring actual indigo-dyed yarns in the weave. Our fabric, quite heavy and with a crisp dry hand, will over time fade to the tones of the vintage specimen.
The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “Joan” plaid flannel is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
Original 100% cotton woven plaid flannel, 8.25 Oz., selvedge, white and red dominant with indigo yarn highlights, milled in Japan exclusively for mfsc.
SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The “Joan” Plaid DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
I opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit (5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs), sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
 Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, navy blue melton wool ©2020 
 Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo Melton wool (left) and navy blue melton wool (right) ©2020  Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo Melton wool (left) and navy blue melton wool (right) ©2020  Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo Melton wool (left) and navy blue melton wool (right) ©2020  Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo Melton wool (left) and navy blue melton wool (right) ©2020  Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo Melton wool (left) and navy blue melton wool (right) ©2020  Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo melton wool ©2020 
  
Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.
mfsc FW2020 “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, SURPLUS catalog.
Made in Japan.
The main inspiration behind the MF51 is the Government-Issued “SHIRTS, MAN’S, FIELD, WOOL/NY” (DA-36-030-QM-8549), a Korean War era US military cold weather staple. We combined the classic OD wool overshirt pattern with the vibe of vintage USN and civvy CPO shirts.
 Vintage US Army Field Shirt, 1954 pattern, issued in 1956.  US Army M-1951 Cold-Wet/Dry Clothing System. What stands out of the original design is the angled shoulder yoke pattern with its characteristic “X” rear panels intricate construction, and the two utilitarian large chest pockets matched with the wide open collar.
For a custom military tailor look à la MF®, we spiced-up the inside of the shirt with OD bias tape panels, and a concealed olive twill smart phone pocket. The left pocket flap features a pen slot, with an inner pen sleeve noticeable from the contrast stitching on the inside of the shirt.
If the originals were issued in an olive green shade #108 wool/nylon blend, we opted instead for a soft-hand navy blue melton wool, blending with our “Waterfront Surplus” theme and its many nautical-related garments. We are also releasing an indigo-dyed melton wool version of the MF51, which looks very similar to its navy blue mate, but with the added appeal of future indigo fading and natural evolution from wear.
We played around with the milspecs/instructions triple military labeling. The MF51 harbors our new 2020 original “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” woven rayon label (the two nautical pennants representing Mike and Foxtrot, and not the flag of Scotland), along with two white quartermaster-style cheesecloth tags, a branding combo visible on the outside from the unusual uninterrupted stitch.
The two darts of the lower back panel were initially intended to be easily unstitched by the wearer to add width to the shirt. If we kept this detail and the broad shoulder cut, we adjusted the fit to a more contemporary silhouette, as the vintage specimen are quite ill-fitting. Still, our MF51s are considered overshirts and are cut accordingly to accommodate layering.
The Mister Freedom® mfsc MF51 FIELD SHIRT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
10 Oz. Melton wool, soft-hand, milled in Japan.
Color options:
a) Navy blue Melton wool.
b) Indigo-dyed Melton wool.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by 1950’s US Army Field Shirts and vintage CPO shirts.
* Open collar.
* Angled shoulder yoke pattern and “X” rear panel construction.
* Olive green contrast stitching.
* Cotton bias tape front panel facing.
* Two large utilitarian chest pockets.
* Inner smart phone pocket.
* Pen slot/pocket.
* Lower back panel cinching darts.
* Olive green corozo buttons.
* Original mfsc triple labeling.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING:
The Mister Freedom® mfsc MF51 FIELD SHIRT comes ready-to-wear and requires no soaking or processing. This shirt style is considered an overshirt and the garment is cut accordingly to accommodate layering.
I opted to size down to a SMALL for a trimmer silhouette for my frame (5’7/150 Lbs), considering our Southern California climate often limits the need for heavy layering. The small MF51 feels quite snug, more like a fitted CPO than an overshirt, but the medium was much too roomy for my own taste. The size that will work for you depends on your own proportions and desired silhouette.
Please refer to sizing chart and compare measurement with a similar garment that fits you well to chose the proper size.
 
CHART
CARE:
Dry clean only.
SIZES: S, M, L, XL, XXL
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® Black “BALOO” TWO-TONE Jacket, black veg-tan ’Tea-Core” cowhide leather & sheepskin.
Fall 2020 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
The MF® BALOO Jacket pattern is our take of the famous vintage “Grizzly” style, a popular garment of 1930’s working America, combining mouton fur and leather in one handsome waist-length fashionable coat. Originally designed with ease of movement in mind for outdoor activities in cold temperatures, the Grizzly style soon replaced the more cumbersome full-fur coats of the late 1800’s – early 1900’s.
Surviving vintage specimen are today highly-collectible, but often too dried-out for wear, most original 1930’s Grizzly jackets ending-up as wall display.
The Mister freedom® BALOO is not a straight-up replica of these early outdoor jackets, rather the morphing of a MF® Campus into a “Bear Jacket”, as Grizzlys are sometimes referred-to. The resulting garment is a contemporary piece, easier to pull-off these days than a buffalo coat, yet retaining its vintage appeal.
Sometime in 2017, we released our first BALOO model, in natural veg-tan leather with brown cognac sheepskin panels. A solid black BALOO followed in 2019, featuring black tea-core veg-tan leather (initially-developed for our popular “STALLION”) matched with tonal sheepskin panels. This Fall 2020 edition features contrasting cognac brown sheepskin panels.
Regarding “tea-core” leather, as previously discussed, the term refers to an old-school tannery dyeing method, distinct from the more common dip-dyed method. “Tea-core” dyeing results in the skin side color being different from the flesh side color. Traditionally, to achieve this, hides are first dip-dyed in a light brown color. This is followed by spraying the skin side with a darker color top-coating. Japanese industry experts refer to this type of leather as Cha-Shin (茶芯), Cha meaning brown, and Shin meaning core. It is a sought-after characteristic of vintage engineer boots and older leather jackets.
Starting with our MF® signature natural ‘pink’ veg-tan cowhide introduced in 2013 with the 1930’s style “Campus Jacket”, we worked with a tannery willing and patient enough to comply with our demands and high expectations, and added our twist on black tea-core leather. The idea was simply to combine the patina potential of veg-tan natural leather (a sun-tanning/wearing/conditioning journey mastered and well-documented by our good friend USMC MGySgt John “VEB”) with a solid black appearance.
The BALOO being fully lined, the “tea-core” is initially only noticeable to the keen eye, on the edges of the side cinch straps, key-hole button holes, and arrow-head pocket stops. As the Black BALOO gets some mileage and naturally ages, normal abrasion of the thin black topcoat from wear will reveal the natural ‘pink’ underside, in turn evolving into a rich golden tone. With patience, regular wear, with the expected nicks, scratches, water spills, natural sun-exposure and occasional conditioning with products such as Pecard Leather Dressing, an attractive patina is likely to develop.
Anyone is free to experiment with his/her own method for a natural patina, understanding that actual wear and patience will always beat dragging the jacket behind a truck. I am not making this up.
The MF® Black “BALOO” TWO-TONE Jacket in black veg-tan ’Tea-core” cowhide leather and contrasting cognac brown sheepskin panels is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets, 1930’s “Grizzly” type leather jackets, and other vintage sportswear and outdoor garments.
LEATHER:
* Black vegetable-tanned “Tea-Core” full grain cow hide leather, black topcoat with natural-color flesh side, milled and supple, about 2-3 Oz weight. Exclusively developed for MF®.
* Soft-hand genuine sheepskin panels, warm golden brown/cognac finish with subtle color variations.
Lining: 100% cotton brushed flannel with a 1940’s-50’s-inspired vibrant plaid pattern, discharge-printed. Fabric milled in Japan.
NOTE: The Mister Freedom® Black BALOO TWO-TONE Jacket is made of genuine leather, not pleather. We use full-grain, and not top-grain leather (aka corrected or buffed leather, sanded to level surface inconsistencies). No two hides are alike and each panel may feature variations in texture along with natural imperfections.
DETAILS:
* Vintage 1930’s style, inspired by our Cossack-style MF® Campus Jacket and Grizzly-style American sportswear jackets.
* Fully lined with a soft cotton brushed flannel featuring a vintage style discharge-printed plaid pattern.
* Single panel sheepskin back.
* Slash pockets with arrow-head pocket stops.
* Side gussets with adjustable side straps (NOS metal slide buckles)
* Keyhole button holes.
* Corozo ‘Cat Eyes’ wood buttons, backed by genuine bone buttons.
* Mister Freedom® woven “Sportsman” label.
* Made in USA.
SIZING:
The MF® BALOO Jacket is ready-to-wear and true-to-size.
The fit could be quite snug, depending on one’s body type. If planning on layering, with a heavy cable knit wool sweater and a denim jacket for instance, considered sizing up for a comfortable fit.
At 5’7/150Lbs, I am usually a 38 in mfsc jackets and opted for a comfortable 38 in the Black BALOO TWO-TONE, with enough room for some layering.
Refer to sizing chart below for approximate measurements. Please consider the thickness of the sheepskin when trying to match your chest measurements and the jacket’s measurements. Please contact sales@misterfreedom.com if in doubt about sizing.
CARE:
No specific initial conditioning or pre-treatment is required. Just wear and enjoy the slow patina evolution.
According to frequency of wear and exposure to the elements, some conditioning might be applied to the sleeves if the leather feels dry, using products similar to Pecard Antique Leather Care. Be aware that conditioning should be applied with care and expertise.
* Do not use heavily-oily products designed for footwear, such as neatsfoot oil or Pecard Shoe Care Oil.
* Do not attempt to condition the sheepskin panels…
* Do not dry clean. Even professional leather cleaning facilities might not be competent on how to treat the specific BALOO jacket veg-tan leather/sheepskin/cotton lining combo.
* Should parts of your jacket get accidentally stained from normal wear, consider this a normal stage of the evolution of a garment made for the outdoors.
Embrace the fact that the black “Tea-Core” leather is prone to get nicked and scratched, revealing the natural color under-layer, unavoidably showing signs of wear. Occasional conditioning when needed (according to actual frequency of wear) will contribute to an attractive warm tone natural patina, and a healthy-looking leather.
Available Sizes:
34 (X-Small)
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (X-Large)
44 (XX-Large)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Authentic vintage 1940’s-50’s NOS rubber HALF SOLES for US Army Service Shoes.
Authentic US G’vt Issues, Size 8 – 8 ½
These have been sitting in our Mister Freedom® Vintage Archives for some years now. These USA-made New Old Stock rubber half soles are authentic 1940’s-50’s US G’vt-issued supplies for military footwear. They appear to have been manufactured at the time by “Ply Co” (see small branding on reverse side), and feature the characteristic WW2 period US Army sole thread and markings, and obsolete Mil-Specs.
Besides showing minor signs of years of storage, the ¼ inch thick rubber is still healthy and bendable, making these vintage soles quite desirable for a period-correct resole job by your favorite local cobbler.
I had sent out my old faithful 2013 MF® Trooper Boots (Size US7) along with a set of these for a resole a while back, and after many miles of asphalt and outdoors abuse, the half soles are still holding.
Our stock is limited to size 8 – 8½. Soles can easily be trimmed by a professional to accommodate smaller size needs. They also might work on larger sizes, according to footwear. Refer to measurements photo to determine if these will match the requirements of your shoes or boots resoling project. Convert inch to cm here.
UPDATES on MF® FOOTWEAR PRODUCTION: We are still currently working on releasing our much-anticipated next batch of MF® Trooper Boots and MF® Road Champs. Production has been delayed due to the many technical challenges associated with our demanding standards, and obviously by current events this year. We do not have an ETA yet on either models, but are shooting for sometime in 2021, provided a sudden alien spaceship invasion doesn’t interfere.
Subscribing to our soon-to-be-released MF® NEWSLETTER will keep you in the loop. We again thank everyone on the waiting list for their patience and support, and apologize for the long delay.
NOS half soles available as pairs from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles red brick HQ.
As of August 20, 2020, we are open Monday-Saturday, 11am-4pm, face-covering required and appointments encouraged.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you all for the support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
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