Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt, selvedge “Winter King” heavy flannel edition.
FW2020 mfsc Surplus Collection.
Made in Japan.
The original Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” pattern was introduced sometime during Spring 2019, and initially released in a fine 3 Oz. indigo yarn “NTC” chambray, a fabric familiar to all mfsc OGs as it was the same indigo chambray used for the 2008 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Utility Shirt.
The SECOYA pattern combines two vintage garments, a rare 1930’s pull-over chin-strap work chambray with no label, and a 1940’s STURDY OAK work chambray with elaborate “Double-Panel” construction.
The defunct STURDY OAK label, the workwear division of Sears, Roebuck & Co, produced its famous “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern, often complimented with “Ventilation Eyelets”. Other bygone mail-order catalog companies such as Montgomery Ward & Co, Spiegel or JCPenney also offered their versions in the 1940’s -50’s, all full open button front shirts. We thought of combining the fancy “Double-Panel” pattern with a pull-over type shirt, and the MF® SECOYA was born.
The term Secoya is Bad Hombre parlance for sequoia, a semantic nod to the vintage Sturdy Oak specimen that inspired this MF® pattern.
For FW2020, we decided to introduce a plaid version of the SECOYA. We pulled an old vintage “Winter King” heavy flannel shirt from our archives for inspiration, as it featured a beautiful classic woven plaid of red dominant and genuine indigo yarns. Our friends at Toyo Enterprises milled a phenomenal selvedged interpretation in Japan, in a hefty 8.25 Oz. weight.
The resulting plaid is indeed quite smashing, with the unusual use of indigo yarn adding a new dimension to a classic heavy flannel type fabric of the “Big Mac” or “Five Bros” family.
Our colorful SECOYA is complemented by indigo poplin accents on the button placket and cuffs facing, that will all contribute to the shirt aging gracefully with normal wash and wear. The green ventilation stitched eyelets and white corozo wood cat-eyes buttons add a 1940s-1950s workwear touch.
The “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt, “Winter King” heavy flannel edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Vintage-inspired 100% cotton classic woven plaid, 8.25 Oz., red dominant with genuine indigo yarns, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage 1930’s-1940’s classic American fancy chambray work shirts.
* Pull-over style.
* “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern.
* Stitched ventilation Eyelets on underarm and back panels, green thread.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Chin strap.
* Indigo poplin facing on front button placket/cuffs/chest pockets.
* White corozo wood “cat-eyes” buttons.
* Double chest pocketing, buttoned pockets.
* Concealed inside chest pocket
* High-count 100% cotton tonal stitching, chainstitch construction.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.
SIZING/FIT:
The SECOYA “Winter King” heavy flannel Work Shirt comes raw/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold rinse/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation or one machine rinse cycle on delicate.
- Washing machine spin dry.
- Line dry. (No heat dryer)
We recommend wearing your usual mfsc shirting size, although I personally opted for a SMALL on the SECOYA heavy flannel. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/cold rinsed measurements. To reflect “real life” garment conditions, the shrink-tested shirts in the chart have been rinsed in a home washing machine, cold water, full spin cycle on delicate, and then line dried (no heat dryer.)
CHART
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
 Mister Freedom® SNIPES, BR chambray, raw ©2020  Mister Freedom® SNIPES, BR chambray, rinsed ©2020 
 Fabric evo: Mister Freedom® unworn “SNIPES Shirt” (2020) and well-worn “PATROL Shirt” (2014), featuring a completely different pattern, but cut from the same “BR” indigo chambray. 
Mister Freedom “SNIPES” Shirt, “BR” indigo blue 5 Oz. selvedge chambray.
FW 2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” Collection.
Made in Japan.
The pattern of the MF® SNIPES is inspired by the earliest model of US Gov-issued full button front uniform shirt.
Identified as Specs “No. 8-26C Shirt, Flannel, Olive-Drab, Coat Style” by the Quartermaster Corps, it was introduced sometime in 1933 and issued to US Army and Air Corps personnel and FDR’s CCC enrollees alike. This new uniform shirt pattern was deemed “Coat Style”, marking a practical departure from its predecessor, the mustard color pullover wool shirt commonly associated with WW1 Doughboys. The overall design was borrowed from civilian workwear, back when utilitarian garment-making skills bordered on fancy tailoring prowess. This is definitely an intricate pattern by today’s workwear clothing standards.
Besides the full six-button front placket improvement, the characteristics of the early 8-26C shirt included a one-piece unstructured collar (no collar band), a singular style of elbow reinforcement patch, and two large functional chest pockets, each with a pen compartment.
The Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt retains all of that military design DNA, but we opted for an indigo blue chambray fabric treatment instead of the original US Army OD wool blend release. The slubby indigo chambray is complimented by the olive green contrast stitching and button facing poplin placket, with a touch of red on the side bartacks.
That premium selvedge chambray fabric is a favorite of ours. Developed by Buzz Rickson’s for their vintage US Navy utility shirts repros, it has become a staple of the mfsc shirting catalog for some time. See the Continental, Tonkinoise and Patrol Shirt, all released in that exact same fabric. Some of the product photos above feature a well-worn BR chambray Patrol Shirt from 2014, for fabric evo ref.
Blending 1930s US Army uniform shirt design with 1940-50s US Navy period mil-specs fabric, this original MF® shirt needed a new moniker. Because of the strong vintage naval utility chambray work shirt vibe, we went for SNIPES. The term refers to US Navy enlisted personnel working in the engine room, the “sailors that sail below”, also known as “Black Gang” for their grease-covered blues and dixie cup covers. See Machinist’s Mate Jake Holman’s dungarees for a Hollywood rendition.
The MF® SNIPES Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC: Period mil-specs USN “Buzz Rickson’s” indigo blue chambray, slubby 5 Oz. fabric, white with blue line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by a vintage 1930’s US Army wool uniform classic.
* Full 6 button front opening.
* Rounded tails.
* Olive corozzo wood buttons.
* Two large utilitarian chest pockets with pen compartments.
* Unstructured one-piece collar.
* Elbow reinforcement patches.
* Olive poplin button placket facing.
* Chainstitch construction with narrow folder.
* All cotton olive color contrast stitching.
* Red bartack in lieu of side gussets.
* Original mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The BR chambray SNIPES Shirt comes RAW/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
I personally opted for a MEDIUM for a comfortable fit. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs., and although the SMALL did fit with more of a trim uniform silhouette, it was a bit too tight in the chest.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CHART
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Snap Shirt, “101” selvedge denim edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.
Riding shotgun with the Rubber Duck for Fall 2020 is our DUDE RANCHER in a new skin, a nice and dry indigo denim twill. We are calling it “101” in reference to the famous U.S. Route 101 – or 101 freeway as it is called in So Cal – and as a nod to the bygone Montgomery Ward “101” Powerhouse workwear brand.
This 7.25 Oz. 2 x 1 selvedge twill is reminiscent of vintage Lee-Levi’s-Wrangler denim snap shirts, and enhanced by our choice of yellow/orange combo contrast stitching.
Our DUDE RANCHER pattern, previously released in black and white broadcloth (cotton poplin), printed shadow plaid, light indigo vat-dye chambray, and “Joan” woven plaid, is a Mister Freedom® spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. The design features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
The shirts buttons are painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.
The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “101” denim is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
A dry 100% cotton indigo blue denim, 7.25 Oz., solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Yellow/orange combo contrast stitching.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The “101” Denim DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
I personally opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit, sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Note that this denim version of the DUDE RANCHER features slightly longer tails and arms than previous versions.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CHART
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Snap Shirt, “Joan” plaid flannel edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.
Head over to Sesame Street, and get your ears on, Bubba! Imagine this CB convo:
A: “Breaker one-nine this here’s the Rubber Duck for that WATER HOLE capsule out of Shaky City. Put an eyeball on it good buddy! You gotta copy on me, C’mon?”
B: “That’s a 10-4 Rubber Duck, affirmative. Mercy sakes alive she’s a looker!
Well, looks like I got Evel Knievel on my donkey now, so i’ll back off the hammer. You too lil’ brother, stick to the double nickel, word is Kojak with a Kodak was spotted around your 20… Don’t feed the bears!”
A: “10-4 Bubba. Threes and eights. Keep the shiny side up. Over out.”
As a Four-Wheeler (a non-trucker) you probably missed a bit of the above exchange… But we’ve all watched Convoy and had the soundtrack as an ear worm at some point, and maybe made a few attempts at going full-on Rachet Jaw at karaoke? To brush-up on your 1970s Citizens Band (CB) radio lingo, here are a few clues to decode that convo:
Sesame Street: Channel 19, the “trucker channel” on CB radio.
Breaker One-Nine: prepping line when interrupting an ongoing convo on channel 19.
Rubber Duck: head vehicule of a convoy.
Water Hole: period slanguage for a highway Truck Stop.
Shaky City: Los Angeles.
10-4: copy that.
Double Nickel: 55 mph lane, speed limits fluctuate.
Evel Knievel on my donkey: motorcycle cop behind me.
10-20: one’s location
Bears: law enforcement in general.
Threes and eights: good luck/take care.
Keep the shiny side up: Safe driving, and keep the greasy side down.
Got a copy, good buddy?
Check out the “Over The Road” podcast and particularly this episode about the Trucking Industry history in the US, its place in American life, clarifying the concept of Wildcatters (aka independent trucker, owner operator, “gypsy”, scale-dodging outlaws with CB handles like “Bandit”, “Lone Ranger” etc) vs. Teamsters (Union drivers, more likely to be wearing company uniforms than western duds). The world of truckers – drivers as they refer to themselves, considered by some as the last of the cowboys – has also greatly contributed to American pop culture through the years, blessing us with no less than three volumes of Smokey and the Bandit, and other silver screen gems.
The 1979 documentary “On the Boulevard” gives a rare real-life glimpse of that industry at the time. The costume history-inclined can also find colorful period fashion statements in vintage Overdrive Magazine issues.
Now, about our shirt…
This iteration of our Dude Rancher shirt pattern leads the convoy (see what I did there) and introduces the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Fall 2020 mfsc “TRUCK STOP” collection. This capsule draws inspiration from the colorful world of the American independent trucker, with Mid-West style influences spanning 1950s to 1970s.
The DUDE RANCHER pattern is our spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. It features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
Our shirt features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.
The MF® Dude Rancher is already available in fine black and white broadcloth (cotton poplin), in a vibrant printed shadow plaid, and a light indigo vat-dye chambray.
We are introducing a new fabric this fall, an original plaid milled exclusively for us in Japan, and inspired by a beautiful 1950s Levi’s longhorn western shirt, belonging to a “Joan Saxe”, obviously a woman with exquisite tastes.
 The vintage inspiration behind the fabric of the MF® Dude Rancher “Joan” plaid flannel. Our interpretation of that vintage textile is a selvedge 8.25 Oz. woven plaid cotton flannel, with red and white dominant tones, and featuring actual indigo-dyed yarns in the weave. Our fabric, quite heavy and with a crisp dry hand, will over time fade to the tones of the vintage specimen.
The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “Joan” plaid flannel is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
Original 100% cotton woven plaid flannel, 8.25 Oz., selvedge, white and red dominant with indigo yarn highlights, milled in Japan exclusively for mfsc.
SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The “Joan” Plaid DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
I opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit (5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs), sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
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