LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, model A: 7.7 Oz. indigo linen-cotton HBT.
LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, model B: 10 Oz. “Snow” denim.
Mister Freedom® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, indigo linen-cotton HBT & 10 Oz. “Snow” denim edition.
mfsc SS2020 “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, SURPLUS catalog.
Made in Japan.
We took a stroll down memory lane and rigged-up a small capsule collection for Spring 2020, with references harking back to our earliest Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co fictional scenario, the 2006 “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor”. This concise “Waterfront Surplus” nautical grouping is inspired by 1930’s US Navy and French Marine Nationale utility uniforms, local-made and custom-tailored dungarees, with the usual liberties we like to take with History. This straight-forward and classic set is made of the DOCKYARD Jacket, LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, and SWABBIES Dungarees.
Following the recent release of the DOCKYARD Jacket in indigo linen-cotton HBT and “snow” denim, here is Volume Two, the LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, available in the same two fabric options.
The overall design of this pull-over “jumper” shirt is lifted from a rare 1940s vintage naval denim work shirt produced by the “Gus Kroesen Uniform” label. Established in 1907, and with branches in Seattle, San Francisco and Honolulu, the Gus Kroesen stores have supplied generations of men of the sea with outstanding custom uniforms.
According to a 1924 article of the San Pedro News Pilot, “Gus Kroesen, naval and civilian tailor and haberdasher, with a very attractive and well-stocked store at 335 Front street, San Pedro, served for fourteen years as a ship’s tailor in the U.S. Navy.” (quote credit California Digital Newspaper Collection, Center for Bibliographic Studies and Research, University of California, Riverside.)
Today, surviving vintage specimen of Gus Kroesen naval dungarees are quite rare and sought-after by collectors.
The Mister Freedom® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt features most of the design specifics of the vintage original, the jumper style pattern (aka pop-over), half zipper front closure placket, and three utilitarian patch pockets.
One of the striking details of the Gus Kroesen shirt was the unusual use of the fabric grain in construction. Classic shirt bodies tend to be cut using straight grain (displaying the warp threads vertically), but our vintage jumper featured vertical cross grain. I have seen a few of these private-purchase naval dungaree jumpers from various makers, and this is typical of that style. The purpose was to maximize yield and minimize fabric waste, using the selvedge in the bottom hem, cuff hems, and pocket fold. As a side effect, the combination of grain directions will result in interesting seam puckering, peculiar garment drape, and potential attractive “striped” patina over time.
If our indigo HBT fabric is non-selvedge, both LONGSHOREMAN options are cut using the same grain cutting method, promising some interesting fading evolution in both fabrics.
To add a little twist à la MF®, we decided to add a classic period detail in the form of a narrow chin strap, and a practical concealed chest pocket.
The LONGSHOREMAN Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Model A: 7.7 Oz. dark indigo-dyed Herringbone Twill (HBT) fabric, blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton. Milled in Japan.
Model B: 10 Oz. dark indigo blue 2×1 denim, “snowy” neppy texture, white with yellow line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by 1930s-40s custom-made private purchase naval dungarees and shipyard crews work clothing.
* Pull-over style “jumper” pattern.
* Half zipper closure placket, 30s/40s-style bell-shaped pull “silver” Talon zipper, 100% cotton tape. (use caution when fastening, as these vintage-style zippers are more delicate than modern versions with polyester tape. Lubricate the metal teeth with natural beeswax occasionally.)
* Fabric cut using vertical cross grain for body and sleeves, displaying the warp horizontally.
* Selvedge displayed in bottom hem, cuff hems, and pocket fold (denim version only.)
* Three front utilitarian patch pockets.
* Concealed chest pocket, stripe ticking fabric.
* Clean chainstitch construction, no open seams.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc woven rayon “SURPLUS” label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The following applies to both fabric options. The MF® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt comes raw/unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
Due to the 100% cotton stitching and specific grain cutting method, attractive puckering will show at the seams after the soak, giving the garment more of a vintage feel. The denim version will be stiffer after the initial soak due to the re-activated starch, but the stiffness is temporary and will subside rapidly with wear.
I opted for a comfortable 38 (MEDIUM) in both fabric options, both with a similar fit but different drape. The silhouette is quite slim yet comfortable enough not to make pulling the shirt on/off an excruciating task. According to body types, the cut will accommodate layering with a skivvy or classic Nixon chambray.
We recommend going with your usual mfsc shirt size.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
CHART
Available RAW/unwashed.
CARE:
Launder when needed. For both options, we recommend turning the LONGSHOREMAN Shirt inside out, fully zipped-up, to avoid marbling of the fabric.
Machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small (indigo HBT only)
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
DOCKYARD Jacket, model A: 7.7 Oz. indigo linen-cotton HBT.
DOCKYARD Jacket, model B: 10 Oz. “Snow” denim.
Mister Freedom® DOCKYARD Jacket, indigo linen-cotton HBT & 10 Oz. “Snow” denim edition.
mfsc SS2020 “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, SURPLUS catalog.
Made in Japan.
We took a stroll down memory lane and rigged-up a small capsule collection for Spring 2020, with references harking back to our earliest Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co fictional scenario, the 2006 “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor”. This concise “Waterfront Surplus” nautical grouping is inspired by 1930’s US Navy and French Marine Nationale utility uniforms, local-made and custom-tailored dungarees, with the usual liberties we like to take with History. This straight-forward and classic set is made of the DOCKYARD Jacket, LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, and SWABBIES Dungarees.
First to hit port is the DOCKYARD Jacket.
What could look like yet-another spin on a 1940’s regulation USN denim shawl collar seaman jacket, a profusely-replicated pattern in Heritage Fashion, is actually inspired by a rare French 1930s “Chantier naval” (shipyard) jacket. Our good friend and vintage collector/hunter Jérome Le Zouave, aka le “J”, gets all the credit for unearthing a batch of these gems last year, in a wild goose chase only he knows the secret of. One of these babies made its way to Sunny California and is now part of MF® archives.
As an unusual piece of militaria, the model’s history is not 100% clear to me, but these jackets were apparently a 1930s civilian contract to outfit French Navy shipyard workers. A well-worn lot of survivors ended-up as Government surplus in a French warehouse, and several specimen resurfaced last year. Jérome mentioned he could tell me more… but he’d have to kill me right after.
If the vintage model was stunning, the fit was as expected quite awful, so the pattern underwent a full rebuild. Our version is not a verbatim replica, but does keep the original’s main features and overall nautical vibe, with its shawl collar, two hip patch pockets, and specific cuffs. We spiced things up a bit by adding a removable chinstrap to the collar, and two inside chest pockets. We kept the rear panel two inconspicuous cinching darts, initially intended to be unsewn by the wearer for extra width if needed, in a typical display of utilitarian clothing design where function, practicality, and longevity prevail. It could be pointed-out that this is why the H&M label is hardly notorious its workwear.
We are releasing our DOCKYARD Jacket in two distinct fabrics, both a departure from the original garment, as that would have been too easy. The first option is a dark indigo-dyed HBT fabric, a fancy blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton. The second, a dark and handsome 2×1 selvedge denim with a “snowy” neppy texture, an old mfsc favorite previously featured on our 2015 Tonkinoise. One of the photo above features a worn Tonkinoise rubbing elbows with a raw DOCKYARD, and showing some denim evolution. With proper wear and care, one can anticipate an attractive indigo patina with both versions.
For the front closure of the indigo HBT model, we opted for genuine bone buttons, all with subtle color and surface variations. The denim version features black painted 1940s-style donut wreath buttons. The denim fabric selvedge is displayed on the button placket facing and cuff facing.
Stay tuned for the soon-to-be-released remaining pieces of the “Waterfront Surplus” set!
The DOCKYARD Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Model A: 7.7 Oz. dark indigo-dyed Herringbone Twill (HBT) fabric, blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton. Milled in Japan.
Model B: 10 Oz. dark indigo blue 2×1 denim, “snowy” neppy texture, white with yellow line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by a rare 1930s French Navy/civilian shipyard utility jacket.
* Shawl collar with removable chinstrap.
* Two hip patch pockets.
* Genuine bone buttons (HBT model), or black donut wreath buttons (denim model)
* Selvedge button placket facing and cuff facing (denim model only)
* Adjustable cuffs.
* Two concealed chest pockets, stripe ticking fabric.
* Back panel cinching darts.
* Chainstitch construction, no open seams.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc woven rayon “SURPLUS” label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The following applies to both fabric options. The MF® DOCKYARD Jacket comes raw/unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
Due to the 100% cotton stitching, some attractive puckering will show at the seams after the soak, giving the jacket more of a vintage feel. The denim version will be stiffer after the initial soak due to the re-activated starch but the stiffness is temporary and will subside rapidly with wear.
I opted for a comfortable 38 (MEDIUM) in both fabric options, both with a similar fit but different drape.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
CHART
Available RAW/unwashed.
CARE:
Launder when needed. For both options, we recommend turning the DOCKYARD Jacket inside out to avoid marbling of the fabric.
Machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small (indigo HBT only)
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
 
 
Mister Freedom® SCRAMBLER Jacket, tartan & indigo poplin edition.
SS2020 mfsc “YUCATÁN” collection x “SURPLUS” catalog.
Made in Japan.
In the footsteps of our Mulholland Master and Drizzle King, we’re back to Albion with the Mister Freedom® x Sugarcane SCRAMBLER, our twist on another timeless British wardrobe essential, often referred-to as the Harrington jacket.
That windbreaker style allegedly spurred out of Manchester’s rainwear industry in the mid 1930s, when a well-established local cotton mill took on the task of designing a practical-yet-stylish sport jacket optimized for golf swings, and the Rainy City’s legendary constant drizzle. The Baracuta® G-9 was born, and the year was 1937.
Another account of the story points to British luxury menswear Grenfell® as the originator of the style, also sometime in the 1930s.
The resulting innovative waist-length garment featured a weatherproof cotton shell, wool knit waistband and trims, dog-ear stand collar, zipper-fastener front, vent back yoke for air circulation, slanted flap pockets, and the iconic traditional tartan lining signature. Combining British swagger with contemporary menswear novelty, the style caught on and soon jumped the pond.
The rest is history, written by three generations of fashionable adopters, from conservative golf enthusiasts to on and off-duty silver screen legends, from unassuming grown-ups to pop culture icons, and from rebelling youth tribes to preppy “Ivy League” crowds.
I have personally never seen such early versions (1930s), especially with that type of collar, but one can assume that the initial design/specs evolved over the years. It was common for makers at the time to claim trademark of both the garment’s original pattern and its exclusive fabric as one model. This makes figuring-out “who was first” often open to discussion. The garment industry is a bit more of a lawless jungle nowadays, with “who’s gonna cash in” the main concern.
As a side note, the Harrington’s legacy has included myriads of interpretations and imitations, but not all golf jackets (or swing tops, as they are known in Japan) are patterned after the British original. Elvis apparently did sport a beige Baracuta in “King Creole” (1956), but there is some confusion regarding James Dean flashing a red one in “Rebel without a Cause” (1955). Jim Stark’s windbreaker was more likely a McGregor or Bud Berma of a completely different style, as evidenced by its pointy collar and waistband pattern. Rebel’s iconic jacket was no G-9. We briefly discussed this first-world issue in a previous post introducing our red Breezer windbreaker.
Regardless, the Mister Freedom® SCRAMBLER is definitely a (respectful and fully-credited) spin on the classic and popular British models. We kept the typical 1960s style double-button stand collar, but spiced things up with a curved partial wool knit collar lining, a detail lifted from an oddball vintage “Maine Guide, RAIN-CHEATER” windbreaker. For the wool-sensitive, we sourced a soft/non-itchy wool ribbed knit, much more comfortable than the typical flight jacket mil-specs grade.
Our double arcuate scalloped back yoke is purely decorative, and we kept it simple with no vent or mesh panel. Another departure from traditional G-9s is our set-in sleeve pattern, distinct from the raglan type. We also went for the natural waist-length silhouette of vintage specimen, not the contemporary longer torso cut.
The MF® SCRAMBLER is not a reversible jacket, but comes in two distinct fabric options:
The first features a high density dark indigo-dyed poplin with a subtle fabric sheen characteristic of tightly-woven cloths, and with all the perks of a promising patina on the horizon. It is lined and complimented by a warm orange/green tones tartan fabric, inspired by a vintage wool kilt from our archives. We had an all-cotton interpretation of this plaid milled in Japan, hopefully not transgressing any Clan traditions.
The second model, in full-on casual 50s American sportswear fashion, displays that handsome tartan as the shell (we all thought it looked too good to just be a lining), and is lined by a classic indigo cotton chambray.
Sat Jul 29 2023 Update:
Quick “evo” photos of my MF® indigo Scrambler, with only one initial rinse + occasional wear. The overall indigo color has shifted hue a bit (less reddish), and light signs of wear appear on cuffs, pocket welts, along the zipper etc… That jacket definitely deserves more miles!
The Mister Freedom® SCRAMBLER is designed in California and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Model A:
Shell: Indigo-dyed high density 100% cotton poplin, crispy hand, milled in Japan.
Lining: Vintage-inspired woven tartan, 100% soft-hand cotton, warm orange/green tones, milled in Japan.
Model B:
Shell: Vintage-inspired 100% cotton soft-hand woven tartan, warm orange/green tones, milled in Japan.
Lining: Indigo blue cotton chambray.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by vintage British Harrington-style jackets and American casual sportswear windbreakers.
* Fully lined.
* Elastic wool ribbed knit waistband, natural waist length for a vintage silhouette.
* Dog-ear stand collar, double button closure.
* Soft-hand wool ribbed knit partial collar lining.
* Wool knit cuffs.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Decorative double arcuate scalloped back yoke.
* Set-in sleeves.
* Vintage-style TALON zipper, bell-shape silver pull, 100% cotton tape. (Use gently as these behave like vintage zippers. Engage tab fully and do not use force to zip up. Lubricate the metal teeth with natural beeswax occasionally.)
* Slanted slash pockets with buttoned flaps, contrast facing.
* Mister Freedom® woven rayon mfsc “SURPLUS” label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The following applies to both fabric options. The MF® SCRAMBLER comes raw/unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
Due to the 100% cotton fabric and stitching, some attractive puckering will show at the seams, giving the jacket more of a vintage feel.
The SCRAMBLER fits trim and slim, and sits higher on the waist than its modern contemporaries. I wear a fitted Medium (38), my usual size in most mfsc jackets, with room for a mid-weight shirt and T-shirt. If in-between sizes, we recommend sizing up rather than down with this jacket.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
 
Available RAW/unwashed.
CARE:
Launder when needed. Un-zip before washing. We recommend turning the indigo model inside out to avoid marbling of the fabric.
Machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Do not use hot water or a heat dryer, as this may result in damages to the garment.
SIZES:
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (X-Large)
44 (XX-Large)
Available from our Los Angeles red brick HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.64 LHT.
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Left-Hand Twill selvedge denim.
mfsc Sportman catalog SS2020.
Made in USA.
We named our popular classic five-pocket jeans the “Californian” because they are made in California, USA. The MF® Californian comes in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674.
The Californian family grows every season (see recent timeline here), often according to how lucky we get scoring interesting New Old Stock denims.
The first installment of mfsc Spring 2020 is the Californian LOT.64 LHT. This edition features an attractive and quite rare 13 Oz. left-hand twill denim, milled in Greensboro, N.C., by the legendary Cone Mills.
LHT weave is distinct from its more commun right-hand counterpart, as it displays a wale diagonally-going from left to right, as opposed to, you guessed it, right to left. Those familiar with vintage Lee® jeans will relate to this specific weave, as LHT denim has been the fabric of choice for many H.D. Lee classics, such as their iconic 101-J, Storm Rider jacket or Rider Jeans.
Left-hand twill denims come with their specificities, including a tightly-wound indigo warp (resulting in a softer hand), and a white weft more prevalent on the face (resulting in a lighter shade of denim fabric). Fading properties also differ, and well-worn LHT denim tends to display less high contrast than RHT. However, connoisseurs and lucky owners of authentic vintage faded Lee® specimen will attest to the very attractive subtle patina. In all honesty, we haven’t had time to “beat-up” a Lot.64 LHT yet, but the HQ will keep everyone posted.
The pocket bags are cut from a fancy indigo/white woven plaid NOS fabric.
The Lot.64 pattern is our most popular cut, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise, a silhouette inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans with a 1960’s twist.
If our 64 pattern has been fairly consistant throughout the years, the specific drape/weight/color of each denim does alter the silhouette of each model. Visually, this season’s NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. LHT release has a slightly more generous leg than the recently-issued 16 Oz. Midnight denim Lot.64 MD. The fit is somewhat closer to our Lot.54 than other Lot.64s, so please consider sizing down if you are set on the usual Lot.64 silhouette, and if the rinsed measurements work for you.
The Californian LOT.64 LHT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from NOS American denim fabric.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo Left-Hand Twill denim, white/red line selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags: NOS 100% cotton indigo/white woven plaid fabric.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS indigo/white woven plaid 100% cotton pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge buttonhole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original MF® silver-color ‘oxidized’ metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (red).
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
All the Californian blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will technically shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
This specific Californian Lot.64 LHT edition is cut with a generous waist (referred to as “vanity sizing”), and a rinsed W32 will end-up measuring closer to 33 inches.
The Waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit.
I opted for a W31 with this model (my current size in MF® Californians), for a comfortable top block and generous straight leg silhouette. The resulting fit is closer to that of the Lot.54BB than our classic Lot.64. I personally could have gone down to a W30, but decided to stick to W31.
For those partial to the usual slimmer silhouette of the 64s, and should the rinsed measurements work out, consider sizing down on the LOT.64 LHT.
As with all denim twills, subtle shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please note that, for this model, soaking in hot water or using an electric clothes dryer will hardly result in extra shrinkage after the initial cold soak.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. (soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)
 
CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
 
 The complete FW2019 additions to the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane made-in-USA mfsc SPORTSMAN catalog ©2019 Mister Freedom® Sportsman “Frontier” Chinos, New Old Stock 2×1 denim twill.
Sportsman catalog, mfsc Fall 2019.
Made in USA.
Our popular mfsc “Sportsman Chinos” are back this Fall, marking the final installment of the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane production of this glorious year 2019.
The “Sportsman Chinos” are classic workwear-style trousers with a 1940’s-50’s period vibe. This pattern was initially introduced in NOS denim sometime in 2012 as the Frontier Chinos (“Men of the Frontier” collection), and we later released various models in Beach Chino Twill, Indigo cotton-linen Métisse, OD Mil-Specs Cotton Sateen, and Khaki HBT.
Unlike the slender 1960’s silhouette of the Continental Trousers series, the cut of the Sportsman Chinos features a fuller leg, higher rise and generous top block. The resulting old school fit is reminiscent of vintage classic cotton chino twill work pants.
Our fabric of choice for this 2019 “Frontier” Chinos release is an attractive New Old Stock 2×1 dark indigo denim twill, milled in Japan by the famed Kurabo company. The lightweight yet sturdy 10.5 Oz. denim features a crispy hand with somewhat of a waxy rigid finish. This fabric recalls vintage US Army barrack bags, or early Lee® “Jelt-Denim” overalls and chore coats.
For pocketing, we opted for a fancy NOS woven striped cotton twill, to contrast with the utilitarian dark denim and stark tonal stitching.
The FW2019 Sportsman “Frontier” Chinos are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
NOTE: Above photos show a hemmed pair, with a simple traditional 1¼ inch fold. Production comes un-hemmed, with an open/overlocked bottom, for your personal cuffing preference, with or without a fold. Hemming can be done with a common single-needle sewing machine (no chainstitch machine required), a service easily provided by your local alteration place.
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, inspired by vintage 1940’s-50’s cotton chino twill work pants.
FABRIC:
New Old Stock 2×1 indigo denim twill, 10.5 Oz, dark indigo warp x grey weft, 100% cotton with a subtle waxy finish. Milled by Kurabo (JAPAN)
Pocketing: Fancy NOS stripe all-cotton twill, HBT and sateen weave.
DETAILS:
* Relaxed vintage silhouette and fit.
* Button fly, utilitarian vintage-style black metal “donut” tack fly buttons, and “Deco” design black metal waist button.
* Flat-felled side seams.
* Straight side pockets.
* Rear welt pockets.
* Original wide & narrow belt loops combo.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, French vintage NOS metal slide buckle.
* Fancy New Old Stock stripe fabric pocket bags.
* Watch pocket.
* 100% cotton thread construction, flat felled seams, tonal stitching, green inside chainstitch “MF® Sportsman” signature.
* Crotch gusset.
* MF® “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on waist band, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences (with or without classic fold).
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The Sportsman “Frontier” Chinos are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing or cropping/hemming:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
This specific 2×1 denim is sanforized, with hardly any shrinkage resulting from a cold soak. I opted for a Waist 32, my usual size with mfsc trousers (when W31 is unavailable.) These are cut generously in the waist, with a roomy top block and high rise. I could fit a W30 but personally preferred the fuller leg of the W32 for this particular workwear trousers style.
Production comes un-hemmed, with an open/overlocked bottom (about 40” inseam), for your personal cuffing preference, with or without a fold. Hemming can be done with a common single-needle sewing machine (no chainstitch machine required), a service easily provided by your local alteration place.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your pants to fit. We recommend referring to our rinsed measurements from the chart below, and comparing them with the measurements of similar trousers you own. This is how we measure our garments.
CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Potential attractive patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
W28
W30
W32
W34
W36
W38
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2019
|
