   
Mister Freedom® “COWBOY” Jacket, Selvedge Piqué Edition.
SS2019 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.
Piqué (pee-kay), a “woven fabric with cords (wales) running warpwise”, is sometimes referred to as Bedford Cord.
Piqué jeans with matching jackets became popular with young adults in the early 1960’s, as a casual alternative to blue denim, with Levi’s® leading the trend with its 911 series released in a palette of subtle colors.
“Color jeans”, of assorted woven patterns and from several makers, made their way to American campuses, city streets and film sets. Lee Riders® was popular for its sateen “Westerner” models, Levi’s® for its pique and twills, and Wrangler® for its twill and light blue denim versions. Style icons like Steve McQueen or Paul Newman adopted their own favorites on and off screen, unwillingly promoting the style, contributing to its cool easygoing sixties fashion vibe today.
Our 100% cotton 12.05 Oz. piqué fabric features fine raised vertical cords on the face, with a contrasting waffle-like texture on the reverse. We are releasing it in two distinct color options: natural ‘wheat’ and a specific shade of ’vintage’ sage green. On close inspection, the wheat version features attractive minuscule brown flakes, as the yarn is unbleached.
The Mister Freedom® “Cowboy” jacket pattern is our twist on the classic 1960’s trucker-style jacket, and was initially introduced to our Sportsman Catalog sometime in 2015. The “Cowboy” is available in a traditional dark indigo NOS Cone mills 12.5 Oz denim twill, a beautiful lighter indigo “Malibu Sea” 14 Oz. selvedge denim milled in Japan, a NOS wheat color Cone Mills 12.5 Oz selvedge denim, a black-coated denim, and a special “Rodeo” edition.
The mfsc COWBOY Jacket Piqué Edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% cotton 12.05 Oz. piqué fabric, selvedge, milled in Japan.
Two color options:
a) Sage green
b) Wheat (unbleached natural color)
DETAILS:
* Fairly trim silhouette, sixties vibe.
* Original MF® slanted flap chest pockets.
* Original MF® cast brass tack buttons.
* MF® tonal “M” stitching on pockets.
* Fabric selvedge displayed on front panel fold.
* NOS woven stripe fabric accents on pocket flap facing.
* Buttoned cinch-waist side tabs.
* Copper rivet reinforcements backed by leather washers for pockets and sleeve placket.
* Double MF® labeling: Early workwear style printed cloth “Buckaroo” mfsc neck label and woven original “Yucatán” inner waistband label.
* 100% coton tonal stitching, with red chainstitch accent on the inside.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The Piqué Cowboy Jacket comes UN-WASHED (i.e. raw/loomstate) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
Please note that some light color bleeding might be expected from the light brown leather washers after the initial soak, resulting in some faint color transfer visible on the wheat version. This will subside with subsequent wash cycles.
We recommend our usual method for raw cotton garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
As I did with all previous versions of the MF® Cowboy Jacket, I opted to size down to a Small (36) in this SS2019 Piqué edition. I am usually in between sizes (36 and 38) and went for the slimmer/shorter silhouette for this jacket. Note that unlike most denim fabrics, this piqué fabric will not stretch with wear.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
 
 MF® Cowboy Jacket Pique, Size 36 (rinsed/line dry) CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
NOTE: Some light color bleeding might be expected from the light brown leather washers after the initial soak or first washes, resulting in some color transfer visible on the wheat version. This will subside with subsequent wash cycles. Do not use bleach, as this will ruin your jacket, nor use hot water, as that might fix the color transfer permanently.
Available RAW/unwashed.
Sage green or Wheat.
SIZES:
X-Small (34)
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2019
FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “PIOUPIOU” mfsc Collection (made in Japan)
 FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “PIOUPIOU” mfsc collection.  FW2019 MF® “Mecano” Jacket, indigo HBT cotton/linen.  FW2019 MF® “Le Vaillant”, indigo HBT cotton/linen.  FW2019 MF® “Mecano” Jacket, SC 401 Hawaii denim.  FW2019 “Le Vaillant” Pants, SC 401 Hawaii denim.  FW2019 MF® Chemise “Poilu”, blue dobby stripe.  FW2019 MF® Chemise “Poilu”, white dobby stripe.  FW2019 MF® “Musette” mf7161 (Sportsman)  FW2019 MF® Chemise “M-35”, ticking.  FW2019 MF® Chemise “M-35”, indigo linen.
FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” mfsc Collection (made in Japan)
 FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” mfsc collection.  FW2019 MF® “Mattock” Jacket, corduroy.  FW2019 MF® “Trailblazer”, brushed sateen, rust.  FW2019 MF® “Trailblazer”, brushed sateen, Prussian Blue.  FW2019 MF® “N-1H” Deck Jacket, brown Jungle Cloth.  FW2019 MF® “Tonkinoise”, double indigo.  FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas.  FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas.  FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas. DIY beeswax-treated prototype.
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” mfsc catalog, Fall/Winter 2019 (made in USA)
 FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” mfsc catalog additions.  FFW2019 MF® “Baloo” Black edition, black tea-core cowhide..  FW2019 MF® Californian” Lot.54BB, NOS Cone Mills denim.
 FW2019 MF® “Ranch Blouse” and “Californian” Lot.64, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.  FW2019 MF® “Ranch Blouse”, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.  FW2019 MF® “Californian” Lot.64, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.  FW2019 MF® “Speedways”, NOS ‘beatnik green’ corduroy.  FW2019 MF® “Campus” Jacket, ‘Stallion’ edition, black tea-core cowhide.  FW2019 MF® “Sportsman Chinos”, NOS 2×1 denim.
FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc collections.
Our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Fall/Winter 2019 contribution to the world of Menswear fashion this up-coming season will consist of three groupings, FW2019 “PIOUPIOU”, “SURPLUS” and “SPORTSMAN”.
The “PIOUPIOU” collection is our 2019 theme-based capsule collection.
The obsolete term “Pioupiou” was a happy-go-lucky nickname given to French soldiers heading out to the frontlines on the onset of WW1. As the “Great War” (1914-1918) dragged on, and trenches of the Western Front revealed their terrifying reality, the sobriquet quickly changed to “POILU” (literally ‘hairy’), ’tough guy’ or badass in period jargon…
Our collection is loosely inspired by French military-issued garb of the 1910’s to the 1930’s. It blends period utility uniforms and revisited vintage civilian attire into contemporary wearables, following the usual MF® “might have been” design approach.
The FW2019 “PIOUPIOU” line-up, all garments produced in Japan, will consists of:
1) “MECANO” Jacket:
* Indigo cotton/linen HBT, 15 Oz.
* 14Oz. SC 401 “Hawaii” selvedge denim.
2) Pantalon “LE VAILLANT”:
* Indigo cotton/linen HBT, 15 Oz.
* 14Oz. SC 401 “Hawaii” denim.
3) Chemise “POILU”:
* 100% cotton blue sateen/popeline dobby stripe
* 100% cottonwhite sateen/HBT dobby stripe.
4) Chemise “M-35”:
* 100% indigo Linen plain weave.
* 100% cotton indigo stripe ticking, 4.5 Oz.
The “SURPLUS” collection, our twist on classics and all-original vintage-inspired creations, produced in Japan, will consist of:
1) “MATTOCK” Jacket:
Heavy Corduroy, camel color, 14 Oz., with “Troy Blanket” lining.
2) “MULHOLLAND DRIZZLE-KING” Jacket:
100% cotton “Cachou” Brown canvas, 13 Oz.
Also shown on the photos is a DIY beeswax-treated prototype.
3) “TRAILBLAZER” Shirt:
100% cotton Brushed Sateen, Rust color or Prussian blue.
4) N-1H Deck Jacket:
100% cotton Jungle Cloth, 14 Oz., “Mulholland” brown.
5) “TONKINOISE” Shirt:
“Gunslinger” double indigo selvedge twill, 12.4 Oz.
The “SPORTSMAN” collection, our on-going catalog of classics and all-original vintage-inspired creations, made in USA, will consist of:
1) “BALOO” Jacket, Black Edition:
USA-sourced MF® exclusive black tea-core (chashin) cowhide, brushed cotton flannel lining.
2) “RANCH BLOUSE” Midnight:
16 Oz. “Midnight” selvedge denim, indigo x black twill.
3) “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.64 Midnight:
16 Oz. “Midnight” selvedge denim, indigo x black twill.
4) “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 Buckle Back:
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. selvedge indigo denim.
5) “SPEEDWAYS” Jeans:
NOS 100% cotton corduroy, “beatnik” green.
6) “CAMPUS” Jacket, ‘Stallion’ Edition:
USA-sourced MF® exclusive black tea-core (chashin) cowhide, unlined.
7) “SPORTSMAN CHINOS” Frontier:
NOS 10.5 Oz. 2×1 rigid denim.
8) “GI” HENLEY”:
NOS indigo rib knit, 100% cotton.
9) “MUSETTE” MF 7161: (pictured above with the “Pioupiou” Collection)
NOS waxed canvas, navy blue, chainstitch.
10) JD “SCUTTLER” Cap: (pictured above with the “Pioupiou” Collection)
NOS French workwear woven stripe, 100% cotton.
Voila!
Drop dates for these FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc pieces should start beginning August 2019, as production in ethically-operated Japan and USA factories completes.
Each garment will be fully documented on this blog at the time of release, and the whole line-up will be available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store. A selection of mfsc FW2019 will also be available from fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you very much for your support.
Sincerely,
Christophe LOIRON
MF®
©2019
Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, cotton broadcloth.
SS2019 mfsc Surplus catalog.
Made in Japan.
Following the Mister Freedom® Appaloosa introduced during Fall 2013 and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics, the “DUDE RANCHER” is our second traditional “western snap” shirt. This all-original pattern was inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts, and will now be joining the ranks of the mfsc SURPLUS catalog.
The DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back yokes. We opted for arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt as a daily-wearable, with traditional yet understated curved yokes.
The playful “M” tonal branding stitch on the chest pockets is also discreet. We couldn’t help an ace up the sleeve with the tricked-out forearm pattern featuring an intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket. The pattern-making connoisseur will appreciate.
The fabric we opted for for this first release is a fancy 100% cotton broadcloth, a type of tightly-woven poplin. Broadcloth, with its silky smooth surface and crispy dry hand, is often associated with fancy vintage dress shirts. As a caveat, cotton broadcloth is prone to natural fabric wrinkling, a characteristic of garments cut from noble natural fiber materials (cotton, linen, silk etc…), before the crowning of poly-cotton and acrylics as households’ favorites, sometime in the 1960’s, to facilitate stain removal and liberate one from the burden of ironing. Generations later, this fashion shift and material preference will also lead to the production of billions of pounds of synthetic garments impossible to recycle.
As introduced a few years back with the Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts, the DUDE RANCHER features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, our use of tonal metal snaps is both a nod to bygone westernwear fashion, and a design choice for a toned-down vibe that doesn’t scream yipikaye. Basically, we wanted an easy-to-wear classic garment.
For the rodeo-inclined, we are also releasing a limited edition run of embroidered DUDE RANCHER shirts, featuring original chainstitched “MF® Ranch”classic artwork, a nod to 1950’s style of branding work uniforms and other promotional garments. For consistency and cost issues, these custom shirts have not been decorated on hand-crank operated chainstitch machines, but with program-operated machines. The results are similar, but the expert chainstitch artist will notice the difference in the filling technique. Having recently added a 1950’s Cornely to our upstairs atelier in order to do a few in-house embro jobs, we were quite happy to delegate this tedious custom “rodeo” production task to the pros!
Note: Considering the fine broadcloth fabric and metal snaps, refrain from yanking on the front panels á la Tom Jones when taking your shirt off. Carefully un-snap the buttons one by one, and listen to the crowd roar.
The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
100% cotton broadcloth (aka poplin), tight weave, smooth soft texture and crispy dry hand. Milled in Japan
Two color options, black or white.
SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional arcuate front and back yokes.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Original mountain-shaped “M” tonal stitching on pockets.
* Intricate diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton tonal hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” tonal woven label.
SIZING/WASHING:
The DUDE RANCHER comes rinsed/preshrunk. The shirt is ready-to-wear.
I opted for a MEDIUM (in both colors), my usual size in mfsc shirting, for a trim, traditional western shirt fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
 
CARE:
When needed, machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similar-colored garments.
Mind the fine broadcloth fabric and metal snaps combination, and do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and could damage the garment.
Available rinsed (pre-shrunk)
Solid black/white, or “Rodeo Edition”.
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
Mister Freedom® “McKARSTEN” Jacket, indigo métis & HBT denim.
SS2019 mfsc SURPLUS catalog.
Made in Japan.
The latest “might-have-been” we are adding to the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co mfsc Surplus catalog – our on-going collection of made-in Japan classics á la MF® – is the “McKARSTEN” jacket. The moniker is a reference to our beloved Peter Karsten, and workwear label Lakin & McKey‘s early days (founded in 1908, known today as Key Apparel.)
Our original pattern morphs several ill-fitting period garments into one wearable and contemporary piece with a vintage turn-of-the-century Old World vibe. The body of the McKarsten was inspired by a 1940’s medical field work cotton jacket made by “Nostrand Uniform Co“. The pockets were lifted from a 1930’s “TEST” chin-strap railroad jacket, aka chore coat or engineer jacket. The McKarsten features front panels with rounded bottom, cut longer than the split-back panel, and four patch pockets.
 Vintage inspiration of the SS2019 Mister Freedom® McKarsten jacket. This hybrid garment mixes utilitarian early workwear and old-fashion uniform tailoring. The removable “ring” buttons (or shank buttons) are characteristic of 1920’s-30’s uniforms, but also denim railroad jacket styles, much sought-after by vintage hunters today.
We had our version of these shank buttons custom-manufactured by our friends at Sugar Cane Co, using an obsolete pattern registered in 1913, featuring an octogonal-shaped back and a brass shell cap with original MF® branding. Removable buttons, often found on wool military tunics and work uniforms, were un-clipped and detached when the garment required cleaning. For military inspection, the metal buttons could be polished separately.
Besides the complicated construction of the garment button placket itself (look behind that attractive curved single stitch line around the collar, on the button eyelet hole side), the requirement of an eyelet-stitch machine for the manufacturer, buttons or rings would at times get lost. This fastening system proved quite impractical over time and was mostly abandoned by the 1950’s. Shank “ring” buttons are today a telltale of a desirable piece of costume history for the vintage clothing aficionado.
For the DIY-inclined, one can be creative, play around with colors and spray-paint our MF® brass buttons. Soaking them overnight in vinegar might hasten aging, but, with a bit of patience and wear, the brass buttons will naturally acquire an attractive patina overtime.
 Examples of DIY spray-painted original Mister Freedom® “ring” buttons for the McKarsten jacket ©2019 
The stand-collar or “cadet collar” pattern allows buttoning the McKarsten all the way up, for the “James Bond villain” meets Jawaharlal Nehru look. For a more relaxed demeanor, the collar can be folded into traditional coat lapels, with a high-button front jacket look.
We are realizing the McKARSTEN in two distinctive fabrics. One is a 10 Oz. HBT indigo denim. This fabric is what happens if you mill traditional indigo-dyed warp yarns and natural color weft yarns, into a woven herringbone twill pattern.
The second fabric option is a 7 Oz. blend of 75% linen and 25% cotton (referred to as métis in French), plain weave, indigo and black yarns, selvedge. This fabric was inspired by a 1920’s pair of French work pants, and milled with similar specs. Our version is very “breathy” and not tightly-woven, making it a great summer-weight fabric, with a somewhat see-through quality not uncommon on vintage tropical garb. The fabric drape and dry hand is typical of high-content linen métis.
The mfsc “McKARSTEN” jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
Two distinct fabric options:
a) A sturdy 10 Oz. HBT dark indigo denim, 100% cotton, milled in Japan. (Option featuring contrast stitching.)
b) An elegant 7 Oz. plain weave dark indigo métis, blend of 75% linen and 25% cotton, indigo warp and black weft yarns, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan. (Option featuring tonal stitching.)
SPECS:
* An original MF® pattern inspired by vintage early denim work chore coats (aka engineer jackets), early work uniform cotton jackets, and Old World tailoring.
* Stand-collar (“cadet collar”) type, foldable into traditional coat lapels, for a high-button jacket look.
* Removable “ring” (shank) buttons, secured by a metal ring through an eyelet.
* Original MF®-branded brass buttons, 1920’s style.
* Concealed indigo poplin facing for patch pockets, and for button eyelets panel placket.
* Four front patch pockets, featuring a traditional railroad jacket “pocket watch” compartment and pen slot combo.
* Uniform-style form-fitting rear panel pattern.
* Early tailoring style off-set shoulder yoke.
* Contrast stitching for the HBT denim option, tonal stitching for the indigo métis.
* Original mfsc SURPLUS woven label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
Both options come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/indigo poplin facing/cotton thread will result in puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.
The indigo métis version appears to be cut more generously than the HBT denim option, due to the lighter-weight fabric and totally different drape. Additionally, the métis loosely-woven fabric tends to naturally stretch back after the initial shrinkage.
I personally opted for a Size 38 in the HBT denim version, my usual size in mfsc jackets. The fit is quite comfortable, giving room for further potential shrinkage, when the garment will have to be fully laundered, and to minimal layering.
I went for a Size 36 in the indigo métis, as the 38 felt too roomy for my preference, especially after the mechanical stretch following a bit of wear. The arm opening of the 36 is snug but not uncomfortable when worn with a light shirt underneath.
When considering the length of the McKarsten, please note that the front panels are cut longer than the back panel, a characteristic of this early workwear jacket pattern.
Please refer to chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. This explains how we size our garments.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
 McKarsten HBT Denim  McKarsten Indigo Metis CARE:
We recommend removing the front brass buttons before cleaning (not the tack buttons of the sleeves!), to avoid potential snagging. When needed, machine wash the MF® McKARSTEN on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash separately to avoid color transfer to light-color garments. Turn the McKARSTEN jacket inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the indigo fabric.
Full wash cycle and heat dryer are not recommended and could damage the garment.
Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
 
   
Mister Freedom® Continental “RIVIERA” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat & Trousers).
Cotton-Linen Indigo Selvedge Chambray.
mfsc Sportsman catalog, Spring 2018
Made in USA
We have concocted this latest iteration of the Mister Freedom® “Continental” pattern with your next escapade to the Côte d’Azur in mind. Say bonjour to the elegant yet unpretentious, travel-friendly yet très chic Spring 2019 Continental “RIVIERA” two-piece suit.
Since its inception in early 2016, our Continental suiting concept – a casual unstructured sportcoat and trousers combo, all made-in-USA and today a staple of the Mister Freedom® SPORTSMAN catalog – has become a favorite for the International Man of Mystery who digs the re-bop, and the “FlipFlops and TankTop-Free Air Travel Club” frequent flyer.
After checking into your penthouse at Le Majestic, and as you enjoy the view of the bustling Croisette from the apartment’s balcony, unpack the RIVIERA suit rolled in your suitcase. Hang the set in the bathroom while showering, for a quick MacGyver-style steaming job. You are ready to head on over to the Promenade, for an invigorating stroll amongst rude locals and paparazzi.
The Spring 2019 release of the Continental, the “RIVIERA” edition set, comes in a luxurious chambray fabric, an old MF® favorite previously featured on the Naval Chinos Type No.266ic and the Breezer Type II.
This fine indigo selvedge chambray is a slubby, tightly-woven blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen, plain weave dark indigo warp with unbleached weft yarns, a dry and crispy-hand fabric flashing a white/red stripe selvedge ID, exclusively milled in Japan for mfsc.
Quite reminiscent of the 1950’s French Marine Nationale utility uniform fabric that had inspired our Sea Hunt ‘MN” Crew Pants (see original 2014 blog post), this chambray features a darker, reddish indigo hue, and a higher thread count than its naval counterpart.
Interestingly, chambray fabric, as it is known today, finds its roots in the city of Cambrai, Northern France, a busy textile hub since the Middle Ages. For centuries the region produced dyer’s woad and its industry was notorious for woolen cloth, woven linen and draperies. Cambrai became associated with fine linen Batiste or Cambric cloths, precursors of today’s popular chambray fabric.
The elegant fabric drape and classic texture of our cotton-linen chambray make it a perfect candidate for the MF® Continental suiting family. In popular culture, chambray fabric is often relegated to its blue prison workshirt status. But, just as duck canvas is not mere tent material, chambray is a noble textile, with endless applications in “heritage fashion”.
One might feel uncomfortable with the concept of a suit made of chambray, a cloth type often associated with shirting. But like denim twills, not all chambrays are created equal. They vary in weight, fiber content, color, thread count, finish, drape, Country of Origin, etc… The vintage clothing connoisseur will agree that the MF® RIVIERA cotton-linen indigo chambray perfectly qualifies as a classic summer suiting fabric.
For your mix & match pleasure, eclectic iterations of the Continental Sportcoat are already available in fine NOS fabrics such as an indigo crosshatch twill, two shades of grey cotton-linen twills, a light indigo “Player” denim, an elegant tropical “Congo Gabardine” cotton-linen twill, and a black pigment-coated “JC” denim twill. These can be paired with the Continental Trousers previously released in brown Cacao Chambray, indigo Crosshatch Denim Twill, light indigo “Player” Denim (aka Harlem Slim Special), and black-coated “JC” denim.
Bottom line, theMister Freedom® Continental “RIVIERA” indigo chambray edition is a solid, trust-worthy, low-maintenance travel companion and closet essential, when you need that extra dress-up touch at your destination, or when you just gotta TCB without the salaryman vibe.
Additionally, your indigo chambray suit is guaranteed to age gracefully over time. With normal wash/wear, the RIVIERA will acquire an attractive natural patina, the perks of well-made apparel cut from proper fabric and not factory-distressed. This is a sure way for MF® gear to retain high resale value on the international secondhand market, a fact that our hard-working MF® gang is quite proud about.
The “RIVIERA” is available as a matching Sportcoat/Trousers two-piece set, but also as individual pieces for a mix & match look.
The mfsc Continental “RIVIERA” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat & Trousers) in Cotton-Linen Indigo Chambray is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
A fine indigo selvedge chambray, a slubby, tightly-woven blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen, plain weave dark indigo warp with unbleached weft yarns, a dry and crispy hand fabric featuring a characteristic white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled Japan.
Pocket bags and waist band: Fancy New Old Stock 100% cotton woven stripe twill, Italian origin.
Continental “RIVIERA” SPORTCOAT:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Lightweight and easily folded, perfect traveling companion.
* Late 50’s, early 60’s vibe high button front.
* Fabric selvedge concealed in the pocket construction.
* Tonal corozo wood butons.
* Half shoulder floating lining, 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill.
* Side hip pockets with flaps.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with facing fabric.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, all clean caballo (chainstitch) flat-felled seam construction, green color “Sportsman” signature chainstitch on the inside. No open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.
Continental “RIVIERA” TROUSERS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, straight leg.
* Tonal corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Fabric selvedge displayed on the leg split outer seam.
* Rear welt pockets.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill pocket bags & waist band .
* NOS indigo twill fly/cinch facing.
* Watch pocket.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Tailor shop-style unfinished overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT
This explains how we size our garments.
The “RIVIERA” Continental Sportcoat and trousers come raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.
I personally opted for a Size 38 in the Continental sportcoat and Waist 32 trousers. These are my usual sizes in the Continental series and most mfsc garments.
Due to the specific fabric drape of the indigo chambray, the Continental RIVIERA might feel a bit more generously-cut than its slim-fitting black-coated denim “JC” predecessor. This is more noticeable on the RIVIERA trousers, that tend to look like they feature a wider leg than previous Continental trousers, but feature very similar measurements.
Trousers sizing: The Continental Trousers are true to size. If you are a measured waist 32 inches, you are most-likely a tagged W32 in the RIVIERA Continental Trouser. Although we do not recommend sizing up on this RIVIERA edition, please note that the Continental Trousers pattern might not be a good option for all body types. Proportion-wise, those with very muscular legs will probably look better in our regular Sportsman Chino models.
Trousers hemming: After the initial soak/hang dry process, we recommend settling down on the final length of the bottom hem after gently wearing the trousers around the house a bit. The cotton fabric tends to naturally bunch/wrinkle and pull the leg up slightly. Letting this specific fabric react to your own body for an hour or so will allow you to decide on a proper classic leg break that works for you. I opted for a classic 1 1/4 fold, and subtle period flood.
Style-wise, consider avoiding bulky denim rolls, over-played BRMC cuffing and unsightly “stacked look” with these classic slacks. Look-up “traditional trouser break” for an old-school, adult silhouette.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
(Fit pic: wearing a size 38 jacket and W32 trousers.)
 
CARE:
This unstructured cotton jacket and these trousers are low-maintenance garments, but should be treated with care.
When needed, machine wash the MF® Continental “RIVIERA” Sportcoat and trousers on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash separately to avoid potential color transfer.
Full wash cycle and heat dryer are not recommended and could damage the garment.
Continental “RIVIERA” SPORTCOAT:
Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Continental “RIVIERA” TROUSERS:
Sizes (Leg length about 36’’, left un-cuffed)
W 28
W 30
W 32
W 34
W 36
W 38
Continental “RIVIERA” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat + Trousers):
Available separately or as a two-piece suit (same fabric only, any size combination, rebate issued at PayPal check out.)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
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