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You liked “Rebel Without a Cause”, you’ll love “Papy Without a Clue”.
Mister Freedom® “BREEZER” Windbreaker Type II, Indigo Blue Cotton-Linen Chambray & Red Cotton-Rayon Sateen-back.
Spring 2018 mfsc “SURPLUS” catalog.
Made in Japan.
If it took us a little while to get to officially introduce the “Breezer”, an original MF® jacket produced in 2010 but only documented in 2017, we figured we’d step on it a bit for the release of the Breezer Type II on this blog.
Our 2010 Breezer jackets, originally available in four fabric options, were part of the motorcycle-inspired “Speedsafe Clothing For Modern Riders” mfsc collection, out of which the Mulholland Master was to become a classic highlight. The Breezer Type II is now part of our on-going SURPLUS collection, our selection of designed-in-USA and made-in-Japan classics.
Borrowing its puny moniker from the famous “Scottish Drizzler”, our “Breezer” combines several vintage styles of windbreakers. The “Drizzler” was the classic zipper jacket introduced in 1947 by sportswear specialist McGregor®, an iconic label with a genius design team, familiar to all vintage clothing aficionados. Departing from purely replicating the past, our Breezer blends 50’s swing tops, 40’s US Navy/USMC summer flight jackets (type M-421A), 60’s British vibes, into a casual classic-looking jacket.
The SS2018 Breezer Type II is a “simplified” version of its SS2010 forerunner. We removed the inner and rear pockets, the elbow diamond patch and underarm gussets, but tricked-out the two front patch pockets into a double layer hand-warming pocket pattern. We added narrow cinch tabs to the waist and wrists, as a 50’s sportswear reference.
The Type II comes in two distinct fabric options, both exclusively milled for mfsc in Japan.
The first is a fine indigo selvedge chambray, a slubby tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen. This blue chambray fabric is quite reminiscent of the 1950’s French Marine Nationale utility uniform fabric that had inspired our Sea Hunt Spring 2014 Crew Pants (see original blog post here), but features a darker and more reddish indigo hue, a denser weave, and a selvedge with white/red stripe ID. It was recently introduced with the release of our SS2018 Naval Chinos.
The second fabric option is a subtle nod to vintage Hollywood, more specifically “Rebel Without A Cause” from 1955. In the second half of the movie, Jim Stark drops slacks and tweed sportcoat, proper 1950’s High School attire, and gears-up in a red jacket, white Tshirt, Lee® 101-Z blue jeans and a pair of mean-looking engineer boots, laying down style rules for future generations of teenage rebels. The iconic red zip-up nylon windbreaker was apparently produced by the “Bud Berma” label, although some believe the movie jacket was a cherry red McGregor Anti-Freeze model…
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Original 1955 “Rebel Without a Cause” wardrobe jacket, estimated at $600,000.00 (Courtesy Palm Beach Modern Auctions)
Our Breezer pattern is obviously not a lift of that jacket, but we did borrow the Technicolor® red from the movie. The fabric of the red Breezer is the same as that of our original Breezer, a double-face woven textile, cotton face and rayon reverse aka cotton-back sateen, inspired by vintage 1950’s ‘weatherproof’ McGregor® Scottish Drizzlers. Our Breezer is cut cotton side-out, with the sateen rayon twill side visible from the unlined reverse side. The fabric face is rather matte, contrasting with the rayon sateen luxurious sheen.
Back in 2010, we had borrowed the design idea of the contrast tartan accents from the G9, a classic golf jacket introduced in 1937 under the British Baracuta label, “Aristocrat of Tailored Rainwear”. Our Type II Breezer features a “Dress Steward” woven plaid cotton/linen fabric, a selvedge New Old Stock textile from the MF® vault. It is displayed on the facing of the front panels, stand collar lining, and front pockets.
The MF® BREEZER Windbreaker Type II is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
August 24, 2023 EVO fabric update, after intermittent wear and a few washes:
FABRIC OPTIONS:
a) Fine, tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen indigo chambray, slubby texture, white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled Japan.
Partial lining: NOS woven tartan, cotton/linen blend.
b) Tightly woven blend of 50% cotton (matte face) and 50% rayon twill sateen (shinny reverse), aka cotton-back sateen, milled in Japan.
Partial lining: NOS woven tartan, cotton/linen blend.
SPECS:
* An original MF® design blending 1950’s swing tops, vintage British windproof jackets and 1940’s summer issue US Navy/USMC pilot jackets. This Type II is a modified version of our 2010 Breezer Jacket.
* Unlined body.
* “Dress Steward” tartan woven plaid accents, cut from NOS selvedge fabric, featured on front panel facing, stand collar and pocket lining.
* Two front patch pockets, doubling-up as hand-warmer pockets.
* Stand collar, double snap closure.
* 1950’s-style “TALON” metal zipper, cotton tape.
* Narrow cinch tabs for waist and wrists.
* Mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Breezer Type II comes raw/unwashed, and we recommend an initial cold soak, spin dry and line dry. Both fabric options will shrink to approximately the same tagged size.
I opted for a size 38 in both models. I did use a heat dryer for a few minutes, for both fabrics, to maximize shrinkage and add puckering to the seams. If the fit on both fabric options is similar, the chambray Breezer feels a bit roomier than the red cotton/rayon model. This is mostly due to the very different drape of both textiles.
Please refer to sizing chart for cold soak/spin dry/line dry approximate measurements.
 
 
CARE:
Wash separately on delicate, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Retail: $469.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
Mister Freedom® mfsc Naval Chinos, Type No.266ic, cotton/linen indigo chambray issue.
Spring 2018 mfsc “SURPLUS” catalog.
Made in Japan
Our popular “mfsc Naval Chinos” are back this Spring!
These classic trousers are a nod to the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” capsule collection of 2008, dating back to the earliest collaboration with our Japanese friends from Sugar Cane Co. With a pattern inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, we initially issued them in a combination of subtly contrasting mil-specs khaki chino twills under the “Naval Chinos Type No.266” moniker. An edited version called Type II was released in 2010.
For our smashing 2016 Ten Year Anniversary, two new models were cut, one in a dark indigo canvas and the other in a khaki chino twill, both under “Naval Chinos Type No.266ac”.
We are releasing a very distinct version for Spring 2018, and are excited to introduce a luxurious vintage-inspired fabric new to our catalog. This fine indigo selvedge chambray, a slubby tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen, was exclusively milled for mfsc in Japan. Quite reminiscent of the 1950’s French Marine Nationale utility uniform fabric that had inspired our Sea Hunt Spring 2014 Crew Pants (see original blog post here), this 2018 textile features a darker and more of a reddish indigo hue, a denser weave, and a selvedge with white/red stripe ID.
The leg construction is a flat-felled seam type, same as vintage army chinos, so we played with the fabric selvedge by displaying it in the facing of the five pockets (front slash, rear welt and watch pocket.)
Our mfsc Naval Chinos feature a vintage silhouette, mid rise, with somewhat of a classic leg, neither slim nor baggy. The light-weight crisp chambray fabric makes them a stylish addition to one’s summer wardrobe, easy to pair with solid Skivvies, stripeys, Saint-Malo, …, or plain button down shirts. The indigo chambray will age gracefully with repeat wear/wash cycles, and we look forward seeing some outstanding worn specimen down the line!
The MF® “Type No.266ac” mfsc Naval Chinos, cotton/linen indigo chambray, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
A fine, tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen indigo chambray, slubby texture, white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled Japan.
Pocket bags and waist band are made from 100% cotton woven stripe ticking, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, featuring brown corozo wood buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan, designed in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The Type 266ic Naval Chinos, indigo chambray, come raw/unwashed, and will shrink to tagged size after an initial soak. We recommend a 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, spin dry, hang dry. These are true-to-size, and I wear a comfortable Waist 32, my usual size in mfsc trousers.
Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above method.
CARE:
Wash when needed. We recommend washing on delicate cycle/cold water/eco-friendly detergent. Turning the trousers inside out will help avoid marbling. Line dry.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Retail: $349.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
 
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The Mister Freedom® Nixon Shirt comes in all sizes.
Mister Freedom® NIXON Shirt, selvedge color chambray.
“Surplus” catalog mfsc Spring 2018.
Made in Japan.
These shirts are the latest additions to our MF® “SURPLUS” Spring 2018 line-up, an on-going concept consisting of timeless classics given a twist à-la MF®, all expertly manufactured in Japan by our long-time friends and partners at Toyo Enterprises. The MF® “SURPLUS” collection is the made-in-Japan ethically-crafted companion of our popular made-in-USA “Sportsman” catalog.
The pattern of our ‘Nixon’ shirt is largely inspired by an original 1950’s vintage “Roomy Richard” chambray work shirt, a now-defunct American workwear label established in the late 1920’s. The main appeal of that vintage piece was for us the clever double-layer ‘cigarette’ chest pocket with flap pattern, somewhat reminiscent of the famous Big Yank® pocket, familiar to all vintage clothing aficionados. Originally devised to keep the worker’s cigarette pack dry, that practical little pocket can be used today as double storage for an iPhone and a public transportation ticket/smart card, etc…
 Original 1940’s vintage “Roomy Richard” work shirt packaging. Beside this tricky little feature (the design credit of which all goes to our friend Roomy Dick), the Mister Freedom® Nixon shirt boasts a 1930’s-style chin-strap, hi-count triple stitch construction and selvedge side gussets, all classic attributes of old-school vintage work shirts such as Big Mac®, Big Dick®, Big Yank®, etc…
Following the original red and navy blue printed corduroy release of our Nixon Shirt during Fall 2017, this season introduces a classic palette of selvedge color chambrays, milled in Japan. The three available options of this handsome light-weight crispy and slubby fabric are blue, red and black.
To subtly set each option apart, we played around with the stitching colors, opting for tonal or contrast, and with the shade of color of the corozo buttons.
The Nixon Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Vintage workwear-style lightweight 100% cotton slubby chambray, white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
a) Blue Chambray
b) Red Chambray
c) Black Chambray
DETAILS:
* A garment pattern inspired by an original 1950’s “Roomy Richard” chambray shirt, and other vintage work shirts such as Big Mac®, Big Dick®, Big Yank®, etc…
* Trim silhouette.
* Fancy double-layer left chest pocket with flap, known as “cigarette pocket”, featuring a concealed selvedge ID construction.
* Slanted opening right-side pocket with pen slot, featuring a concealed selvedge ID construction.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Chin strap collar, with vintage-style mfsc-embossed metal buttons on the collar band.
* Hi-count triple stitch construction.
* Green bar-tack accents on pockets.
* MF® Surplus green contrast chainstitch on the inside.
* Side gussets featuring selvedge ID.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
All three versions of the Mister Freedom® Nixon Shirt Chambray come raw/unwashed and will all shrink to tagged size. We recommend an initial cold rinse/line dry. Further shrinkage can be achieved with full wash/machine dry, but we recommend a cold soak first since a shrunken chambray fabric will stretch back as much as an egg will un-break.
The MF® Nixon Chambrays are true-to-size. I wear a Medium, my usual size in mfsc shirting. After full wash/machine dry, the fit is quite trim, with a tapered waist for a slim silhouette.
Refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements, post cold soak/line dry. Again, further shrinkage can be expected with full wash/machine dry, and all three fabrics will reach similar measurements after full wash. Our chart reflects cold soak (not full wash) and line dry. The fit pic reflects a full (cold) wash and line dry.
CARE:
The Nixon Chambray shirts are low-maintenance. Launder when needed. Machine-wash on delicate cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent, line dry or machine dry.
Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Retail: $329.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
   
 Californian blue jeans Lot.64OG, worn & washed (about 4-month intermitent wear.) 
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Color reference: Worn Californian Lot.64BB (Okinawa denim), worn and unworn Californian Lot.64OG (Organic denim)
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Mister Freedom® Californian indigo blue jeans Lot.64 OG , Organic cotton, NOS 15.5 Oz.Cone Mills selvedge denim twill.
Spring 2018 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
If you were planning on adding a pair of jeans to your wardrobe menu, here is an “organic” version of our Californian, specifically designed for raw foodies.
?
Our MF® Californian blue jeans Lot.64 OG are cut from an older stock of premium denim from Cone Mills, and feature… ORGANIC cotton!
Not that anything about the process of making denim apparel usually epitomizes much of an eco-friendly gesture from us and the ever-booming international Denim Industry. In 2018, well over one billion pairs of blue jeans will likely change hands on the blue planet. This unrestrained consumerism means extensive farming of genetically-modified cotton (largely China and India), high water consumption of indigo-dyeing and yarn-bleaching inherent to milling denim, unnecessary chemical ’vintage’ washes favored by many contemporary labels to boost sales, cleverly-planned obsolescence of disposable fast-fashion jeans with convincing “bargain” price tags, etc…
As regular purveyors of selvedge denim wearables and members of this fine Industry, we, at Mister Freedom®, are well aware that featuring “organic denim” for Spring 2018 only buys us a temporary good conscience. The most we will claim is a determination to stick to environmentally-conscious countries for milling, sourcing and manufacturing denim, such as USA and Japan.
In any case, some time before hearing the sad news of the shutting down of Cone Denim White Oak plant in Greensboro, N.C., we secured a nice cargo of New Old Stock Cone 15.5 Oz organic denim. With an attractive raw indigo hue somewhat reminiscent of the color of rigid 501 Levi’s® one could pick-up from Army/Navy surplus stores in the 1970’s-80’s, this fabric was a perfect candidate for our Californian blue jeans family, the humble Mister Freedom® contribution to the crowded world of five-pocket jeans.
After road-testing an early proto, a few months of normal wear and a few washes later, the denim evo showed similarities with the “Malibu” denim we used on the Spring 2017 Conductor Jacket, Speedways, etc… No high contrast fading or fast indigo abrasion (unlike the sugar cane fiber “Okinawa” denim of the Lot.64 BB), no impressive Friday-special honeycombs, but a beautiful and uncommon indigo blue, a blessing for the denim-on-denim creative connoisseur who loves mixing-up his indigoes.
Feb 20, 2018 UPDATE: We received a kind and insightful email from our friend Chip at Cone Denim giving us the actual background of this specific fabric. Chip knows a thing or two about this organic indigo denim, as he personally developed it at the time:
“We (Cone Denim) partnered with Stony Creek Colors in Tennessee who are working with Tobacco farmers to change their crops into indigo plant.
This is how the fabric gets to be such a vibrant blue, and is completely unique from any other dye we have ever run in the past.
It truly is one of the greatest, and most sustainable, selvedges we put out: Texas organic cotton, America indigo plant dye, all woven here in the US.”
The pocket bag fabric we opted for is an old stock of sturdy 100% cotton woven plaid with warm saffron/yellow tones, enhanced by the most flamboyant Californian paper flasher to date, featuring an enchanting sunset in Venice Beach, California, hotter than a 1970’s Playboy® magazine fashion ad.
For the vintage packaging collector, here is a recap of the colorful Mister Freedom® five-pocket blue jeans pocket flashers released in the past 8 years:
* Californian Lot.54 (Yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.44 (Box packaging, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
* Californian Lot.64 (Red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim…
* Californian Lot.654 (Yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64E (Red/White stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.674 (Ivory white paper flasher, 2017): Top block of the Lot.64 mixed with tapered leg of the Lot.74, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64BB (Dark navy paper flasher, 2017): Lot.64 with added Buckle-Back cinch, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64OG (Venice Beach Sunset paper flasher, 2018): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, issued in NOS 15.5 Oz. organic Cone Mills denim.
The Mister Freedom® Lot.64 OG are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 15.5 Oz. indigo twill denim, Organic cotton, solid white selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags:
NOS 100% cotton woven plaid fabric, saffron/yellow check pattern.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* New Old Stock woven plaid fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (Venice Beach, CA., enchanting sunset edition).
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.64 OG (organic cotton) blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process. Note that this specific denim is pretty much sanforized and will not move much.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing: cold soak for about 30mn/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.
The word is to go for your usual mfsc (Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane) waist size. I opted for a Waist 32 in the Lot.64OG, my usual size in the MF® Californian family.
As with all denim twills, slight back-and-forth shrinkage/stretching will occur for a while, fluctuating according to the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.(Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry, ie. minimal shrinkage.)
 
CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
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