Mister Freedom® mfsc BUCKAROOS Waist Overalls, “Okinawa 301” denim edition.
FW2018 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.
The term ‘buckaroo’ has its commonly agreed-on origin in the late 1800s days of the American Frontier, when Spanish settlers and bad hombres referred to cowboys and ranch hands as vaqueros, vaca meaning cow in the Spanish language, with the v pronounced close to a b. The anglicized version and phonetic spelling caught on.
Sometime in 2012, we introduced a new blue jeans pattern, the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc “BUCKAROOS” Waist Overalls, initially issued in two distinct NOS denim twills.
These dungarees were a departure from the average five-pocket jeans, and featured an intricate rear cinch strap pattern. This ‘buckle-back’ style was not lifted from any vintage sample, but came out of the drawing table of our Los Angeles atelier, and trial & error prototype making. (Someone did mention having seen a similar pattern on a vintage catalog that I’m not aware of. That wouldn’t be surprising as nihil novi sub sole seems to apply to clothing design.)
We matched our original back yoke/strap construction with a ‘western’ type front pockets pattern. The folded flap buttons up to the pocket yoke, a feature that could come in handy when horseback riding or sitting on a bouncy old truck bench seat, to prevent the content of pockets from spilling out. There are many examples of this type of front pocket construction on western slacks, although it is uncommon on denim dungarees besides a rare iconic model made by HeadLight in the 30’s~40’s.
By popular demand, the MF® Bucks’ are making a comeback for Fall 2018. We raided Sugar Cane Co’s vault of exclusive denim twills, and secured an old mfsc favorite, the mighty “Okinawa 301”, a ‘hairy’ 16.25 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, blend of 20% sugarcane fibers and 80% cotton, with a white/green line selvedge ID.
This “Okinawa” denim has enviable fading potential and will progressively develop a desirable patina overtime, with normal wear/wash cycles.
Proud and devoted owners of garments cut from this sugarcane fiber denim family, from the Californian LOT.64 BB, “Okinawa” Ranch Blouse, Top Siders Okinawa, …, to the old elusive “Blue Shirt”, can testify.
For more ramblings relating to design tidbits, hot-branding the leather patch and b/w photography, refer to the original buckaroos post, as we’re making ‘em just the way we used to.
The MF® BUCKAROOS Waist Overalls are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from selvedge denim fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by western slacks, vintage denim dungarees and old imagery.
FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301”, 16.25 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, white with green line selvedge ID.
Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. This fabric is exclusive to Toyo Enterprises.
Pocket bags: Vintage NOS cotton twill, navy blue color, sturdy workwear fabric, origin France.
DETAILS:
* ‘Old West’ silhouette, revisited.
* Original front pocket style with folding buttoned flap. Reinforcement un-marked copper riveting.
* Original MFSC upper curved cinch back strap, sandwiched in the back yoke, riveted.
* Wider rear belt loops (to slide the cinch on top or under the belt loop.)
* Original MF® “Californian” shank metal buttons, ‘old stock’ silver finish.
* Concealed rivets on back pockets with original “M” stitch and slightly curved opening.
* Original double labeling. One printed cloth label with original artwork mounted during construction, partially superimposed by a leather patch with “MF” hot branding.
* All 100% cotton color thread. We are using an original MFSC combination of 12 types of gauge/color thread per pair. Main colors are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast.
* Sturdy 100% cotton vintage New Old Stock navy blue twill pocket bags.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The “Okinawa” BUCKAROOS come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a cold-soak/hang-dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol:
* Cold soak for about one hour, with occasional hand agitation, spin dry.
* Hang dry for a few hours, and wear briefly while still damp to set creases.
* Line dry until fully dry.
* The resulting stiffness of the garment is due to the reactivated starch in the fibers, and will rapidly subside with wear.
The size that will work for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. The BUCKAROOS are designed with somewhat of a generous vintage silhouette in mind, and not intended to be worn tight. The leg is similar to our old Californian Lot.54 pattern. See the various silhouettes of the MF® Californians referenced in the family photo below.
I usually wear W32 in our Californian blue jeans but decided to go for a W31 in the BUCKAROOS, just personal preference with this particular model. The BUCKAROOS are still considered true-to-size, and whether you size down or go for your usual size is up to your desired silhouette.
As with all denim twills, but even more so with this particular ‘Okinawa’ sugarcane fiber denim, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements: Soaked = 60mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage.)
Please note that the awkward fit pic features a pair of BUCKAROOS straight-off the soak/dry process, unaltered and briefly worn just for the occasion.
 
DENIM CARE:
Wash denim jeans when needed. Hand-wash or machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive indigo contrasts, refrain from over-washing your jeans. Just enjoy the journey and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully!
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
 
MF® CONDUCTOR Jacket, “cachou” Duck Canvas.
Sportsman Catalog, Fall 2018
Made in USA.
The MF® CONDUCTOR pattern, a fancy denim jacket style for the caboose-inclined and vintage iron horse connoisseur, was originally added to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog in the Spring of 2017.
During the early days of R&D, our aim was a work jacket design standing out from other traditional chore coats, engineer jacket, railroad jackets, farmer jackets of the same family. We grabbed a few pointers from our 1920’s-inspired Loco Jacket (“Viva La Revolución”, Spring 2013), and built the CONDUCTOR from scratch, with all original pocket designs and details. Blending elegant tailoring touches with vintage workwear functional ruggedness, we cooked-up a garment with both rugged trainman and gentleman passenger in mind. Our Conductor Jacket makes it easy to switch from shoveling coal to sipping a libation at the plush red velvet wagon-bar, with the usual MF® grain of salt.
The original release of the Conductor was in a favorite fabric of ours, the “Malibu Sea” denim. It was followed by a Spring 2018 version cut from a vintage New Old Stock hickory stripe twill.
For this third iteration, we developed a brown cotton duck canvas inspired by vintage specimens of French 1930’s – 1950’s outdoor and military garments. Similar yet distinct from early US duck canvases typical of classic American hunting gear (and definitely different from the average modern duck canvas), our fabric features a crispy selvedge canvas dyed in the classic French “cachou” color.
“Cachou” is a vegetable extract that the French are found of, particularly in the form of licorice candies. In Southern France, locals often reach an emotional climax when managing to share one of these little black mints with a tourist keen on fully embracing the culture. The immediate gagging grimace on the first-timer is a prized reward for the Frenchman. Cachou mints are an acquired taste.
For our local patrons, free cachou tasting at the MF® HQ, 11-6 daily.
Rich in tanins and pigments, the cachou extract has been traditionally used for dyeing ship sails and other textiles since the 1830’s. As a pigment, it produces a range of rich and warm reddish brown hue, a particular color familiar to the collector of French vintage military accoutrements, old forest ranger workwear, traditional hunting gear, etc…
With the invaluable help of our friends and textile experts at Toyo Enterprises, we managed to replicate this cachou color, along with its beautiful fading quality. The base fabric is a dry hand tightly-woven 100% cotton selvedge canvas, milled and dyed in Japan.
We paired our duck conductor with a classic corduroy collar, same corduroy grade used as pocket warmer on vintage USN peacoats. For a handsome concealed contrast, we selected an indigo/white NOS woven check twill for pocket facing, visible on the inside chest pocket and as pocket lining.
The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Body: Sturdy and crispy 100% cotton duck canvas, selvedge, brown ‘cachou’ color, milled and dyed in Japan.
Collar Facing: Amber brown wide whale cotton corduroy.
Pocket Facing: NOS indigo/white woven check twill
DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets.
* Four original MF® pocket-shape designs.
* Elegant front panel cut-away design.
* Double duty chest pocketing, with watch compartment on left side.
* Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS indigo/white woven check twill.
* Inside iPhone chest pocket.
* Original Mister Freedom® oxidized brass shank buttons.
* Collar chin strap secured with oxidized black donut button.
* Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID.
* Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit.
* Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles.
* Copper riveted cuff openings.
* Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw cotton garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
Following this initial routine, the garment will stiffen when dry, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.
I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash garment inside out to avoid marbling, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Due to the specific nature of the garment dye, the cachou canvas will gradually fade overtime with normal wear and repeat washing. For a natural patina, do not try to overwash but enjoy instead wearing your garment.
Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans.
Made in USA.
Our popular classic five-pocket jeans are called “Californian” because they are made in California, USA.
The MF® Californians come in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by main Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674.
Through the years, we have issued various iterations of these Lots, showcasing assorted selvedge denims and trim options, released in the USA in rigid/loomstate form only:
* Californian Lot.54 (Yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, button fly, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.44 (Box packaging, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, button fly, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
* Californian Lot.44R (Reissue, w/o packaging, 2018): Same as Lot.44 but issued in NOS Cone 13.Oz sanforized denim twill.
* Californian Lot.64 (Red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, zipper fly, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim.
* Californian Lot.654 (Yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, button fly, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64E (Red/White stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.674 (Ivory white paper flasher, 2017): Top block of the Lot.64 mixed with tapered leg of the Lot.74, button fly, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64BB (Dark navy paper flasher, 2017): Lot.64 with added Buckle-Back cinch, button fly, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64OG (Venice Beach Sunset paper flasher, 2018): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, button fly, issued in NOS 15.5 Oz. organic Cone Mills denim.
Asides from our MF® Californians, we also offer a wide range of non five-pocket denim trousers.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
Mister Freedom® LAPTOP HAVERSACK
NOS selvedge denim x woven stripe wool-cotton blend blanket.
Made in USA.
To keep your laptop toasty for your up-coming Mars expedition, we have updated our popular LAPTOP HAVERSACK pattern with a cosy New Old Stock wool-blend blanket lining.
Our casual handy shoulder bag keeps the construction specs of its predecessor initially released in 2012. Its versatile size (approx 15” x 10” x 1.5”) allows this denim haversack to house the average contemporary laptop computer or iPad®. An electronic device or book measuring less than 15″ x 10″ will easily slide in the soft woolen blanket inner lining.
A zip-up outer pocket will hold charger, USB, iPod and/or other supplies.
Please note that the shoulder strap is not adjustable, but its length should work for most users with normal expectations.
Our haversack is not shockproof, nor is it waterproof. So if you have an urge to boil it (?) make sure your computer is not inside. This lightweight bag is suitable however for storing and hauling around your portable computer gear while about town or travelling.
The bag is entirely built from recycled or New Old Stock supplies. NOS selvedge denim twills for the shell, NOS wool-blend woven stripe blanket for lining, recycled vintage EU military grey cotton straps for flap closure, and NOS 1966 US Government-issued olive drab webbing for the shoulder strap. The zips are vintage cotton tape NOS 1960s-70s TALON metal zippers.
There are NO overlocked seams, all clean seams inside and out, with a concealed use of the denim selvedge.
Designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in limited quantities, until NOS supplies last.
SPECS
PATTERN: An original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by early French military WW1 musettes, ‘bread pouches’, and other military personal effect haversacks.
FABRIC:
* Shell: NOS selvedge indigo denim, assorted origins (USA and Japan), about 12.5 Oz.
* Lining: NOS wool-cotton and recycled fibers blend woven stripe blanket.
TRIMS: Vintage 1966 NOS military cotton/fortisan shoulder strap and recycled military closure strap with hand stitched metal buckle.
LABELING: No outside labeling, but an ID cotton patch under the flap, ready for your custom markings.
STITCHING: Sturdy cotton-wrap poly thread.
SIZE:
* Length ~ 15”
* Height ~ 10”
* Width ~ 1.5”
CARE:
This denim Laptop Haversack comes pre-soaked/line-dried, ready to use.
Cold wash when needed, gentle cycle with minimal environmentally friendly mild detergent. We recommend turning the bag inside-out to avoid marbling of the denim. Fold the shoulder strap inside the bag to avoid entangling in the washing machine.
Do not use heat dryer to avoid potential excessive shrinkage.
Available pre-soaked.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018
 Grab your copy of the latest Clutch Magazine/Men’s File here!  Photo courtesy Tadashi Tawarayama (Seven Bros Pictures Inc.)
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“Yes but can you do the Sirtaki?”
Mister Freedom® ROADSTEADER Cap
NOS selvedge Wheat denim edition
FW2018 Sportsman catalog
Made in USA
The Mister Freedom® ROADSTEADER Cap is the latest addition to our Couvre-Chef Department, consisting of a selection of vintage-inspired headwear, revisited à-la MF®.
The line-up already includes our classic Casquette “La Deffe” and ”Scuttler” Cap, both regularly issued in an assortment of vintage New Old Stock fabrics. The full released range of these two popular models are available from our Los Angeles HQ and webstore.
The MF® Roadsteader was initially released in a handsome New Old Stock selvedge indigo blue denim during Spring 2018. For Fall 2018, we are introducing a version in a elegant NOS selvedge wheat denim twill.
For the R&D and design story behind this original hat, along with a compelling Sirtaki tutorial, please refer to the MF® Roadsteader’s original blog post. This wheat versions shares the same specs and inspiration as its indigo blue denim predecessor.
The black cowhide leather of the visor is “tea core”, i.e. surface-dyed black with a contrasting ‘natural’ light brown on the flesh side, guaranteeing a nice vintage patina overtime.
The MF® Roasteader Cap is designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®.
SPECS:
An original MF® pattern, inspired by an assortment of vintage nautical covers and 1900’s french traditional working-class hats.
FABRIC:
Shell: NOS 3/1 selvedge wheat denim twill, about 12 Oz.
Lining: Vintage NOS glazed 100% cotton fabric, silkscreen with an original MF® graphic.
Leather trims: black “tea core” cowhide headband and visor, with genuine kangaroo hide headband lining.
DETAILS:
* Fancy old-school construction.
* Unstructured crown. (no plastic frame)
* Fully lined with NOS black glazed cotton, featuring original MF® silkscreened label.
* Black “tea core” cowhide leather headband.
* Unlined black “tea core” cowhide leather visor with indigo HBT tape piping.
* Genuine kangaroo hide headband facing, with traditional red/white/blue bow.
* Traditional chinstrap was replaced by a riveted strap, featuring concealed denim selvedge ID.
* Made in USA.
SIZING:
The headband size in measured in centimeters. The headband will not stretch altogether, but the kangaroo lining will soften with wear and ‘loosen-up’ the fit a bit.
Size 58 (cm) roughly equates to a 7 ¼ hat size.
Size 60 (cm) roughly equates to a 7 ½ hat size.
Note that the crown of the Roadsteader is unstructured (no plastic frame) so that it will ‘slouch’ naturally with wear. We recommend cocking it to one side, and a bit to the back, for the old-salt vibe.
CARE:
Do not attempt to machine wash/dry the MF® Roadsteader Cap. Professional spot-cleaning only, if needed. With normal repeat wear, this cap will start to ‘slouch’ and the denim fabric begin to drape naturally.
We do not recommend trying to artificially hasten the normal aging process. Just wear and enjoy.
NOTE: I personally opted to initially cold-soak my wheat Roadsteader briefly, spin dry, shape the cap to the desired “old salt” slouch, and then let dry overnight. The resulting hat, with a slightly wrinkled denim fabric, is featured on the photos above.
Beware that some color bleeding from the cognac brown leather sweatband on the wheat denim might occur when opting to rinse the Roadsteader.
Available Raw/unwashed.
SIZES:
Size 58 (cm) (approx. 7 ¼)
Size 60 (cm) (approx. 7 ½)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018
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