 The Musicaladers (with Bing Crosby), 1920’s. Lareida’s dancehall, Spokane Valley, WA. (Photo courtesy The Spokesman) 
 Evolution of the NOS Hickory stripe twill: Unworn/unwashed MF® Conductor Jacket (2018) and worn/washed Sportsman Shirt (2013) 
MF® CONDUCTOR Jacket, vintage NOS selvedge hickory stripe twill.
Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2018
Made in USA.
The MF® CONDUCTOR pattern, a fancy denim jacket style for the caboose-inclined and vintage iron horse connoisseur, was originally added to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog during the Spring of 2017.
During R&D, we were aiming at a work jacket design standing out from other traditional chore coats, engineer jacket, railroad jackets, farmer jackets of the same family. We grabbed a few pointers from our 1920’s-inspired Loco Jacket (“Viva La Revolución”, Spring 2013), and built the CONDUCTOR from scratch, with all original pocket designs and details. Blending elegant tailoring touches with vintage workwear functional ruggedness, we cooked-up a garment with both rugged trainman and gentleman passenger in mind. Our Conductor Jacket makes it easy to switch from shoveling coal to sipping a libation at the plush red velvet wagon-bar, with the usual MF® grain of salt.
The first release of the Conductor was in a favorite fabric of ours, the “Malibu Sea” denim.
For Spring 2018, the MF® Conductor Jacket gets cut from another mfsc favorite, a vintage New Old Stock hickory stripe lightweight twill that came out of an old warehouse in Southern California. We were lucky to score a few rolls of that goodness, and thought the hickory stripes were a perfect match for our old-school railroad worker-inspired jacket. The exact same fabric was featured on the Mister Freedom® “Sportsman Shirt” from 2013, so we are providing a few evo photos for reference.
Whether worn as a top garment or as a layer under another ¾ length coat, with a classic bowtie à-la Bing Crosby’s Musicaladers, with a simple T-shirt or chambray workshirt à-la Choo-Choo Charlie, the MF® Conductor Jacket is pretty versatile. The numerous pockets make it quite a practical garment when running around town or traveling.
The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Vintage 100% cotton New Old Stock lightweight twill, hickory stripe pattern, origin USA.
DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets.
* Four original MF® pocket-shape designs.
* Elegant front panel cut-away.
* Watch compartment on left chest pocket.
* Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS 2×1 indigo denim.
* Inside iPhone chest pocket
* Black oxidized donut wreath buttons.
* Collar chin strap with contrast copper donut button.
* Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID.
* Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit.
* Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles.
* Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
The garment will stiffen when dry following this initial routine, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.
I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Some light indigo blue transfer to the white yarns might occur. This is normal and will subside over time and subsequent wash cycles.
Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Retail $ 329.95
Available from our Los Angeles ol’ pile o’ rags, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
 
 
Mister Freedom® COWBOY Jacket, New Old Stock black-coated crosshatch denim (BCD).
Sportsman mfsc Spring 2018.
Made in USA.
The latest release for the Spring 2018 Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog is a new iteration of the popular MF® Cowboy Jacket, our twist on the classic trucker-style jacket. The MF® Cowboy Jacket is already available in a traditional dark indigo NOS Cone mills 12.5 Oz denim twill, a beautiful lighter indigo “Malibu Sea” 14 Oz. selvedge denim milled in Japan, and a NOS wheat color Cone Mills 12.5 Oz selvedge denim.
This time around, we wanted a dancing partner for the MF® SPEEDWAYS Jeans issued for Fall 2017 in a special “coated denim”. This special NOS fabric is not the modern waxy black rubber type coating seen on novelty contemporary jeans, but rather an interesting indigo denim twill printed with a soft-hand opaque coat of matte black water-based ink. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the usual light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality.
If the Cowboy Jacket in BCD initially looks flat black due to the pigment coating, it will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo with black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion. See the denim wash test photos below, also featuring a small section rubbed with sand paper.
 
We opted for tonal stitching and un-branded oxidized black wreath donut buttons, for a rather unassuming vibe and neutral fashion statement.
The mfsc COWBOY Jacket in Black-Coated Denim is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock crosshatch pigment-coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, 12 Oz. Probable Kurabo (Japan) origin.
DETAILS:
* Fairly trim silhouette, sixties vibe.
* Original MF® slanted flap chest pockets.
* Oxydized black wreath donut shank buttons.
* MF® tonal “M” stitching on pockets.
* Charcoal “salt & pepper” chambray fabric accents on pocket flap facing.
* Buttoned cinch-waist side tabs.
* Copper rivet for pockets and sleeve placket reinforcements.
* Debossed leather MF® original patch.
* All cotton thread chainstitch construction, tonal with contrasting red accents on the inside.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT
The Cowboy Jacket in BCD (Black-Coated Denim) comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. This specific denim is pretty much sanforized, and very minimal shrinkage is to be expected.
We suggest you follow the usual initial method we recommend for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
* As an optional step, wear the garment briefly when still not fully dry, in order to slightly shape it to your body and set creases. Hang and let fully dry.
The denim garment will stiffen when dry following this initial routine, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.
As with all the versions of the MF® COWBOY Jacket, I opted to size down from the Medium (38) I usually wear in msfc garments, and went for a snug 36 (once cold soaked/line dry.)
What works is subjective and will depend on what silhouette you are comfortable and familiar with, on your body type and personal style.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
 
CARE:
Treat the MF® COWBOY Jacket BCD as you would fancy indigo denim wearables. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast colors fades, otherwise machine wash on delicate. Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Initially black, your Cowboy Jacket BCD will develop its own attractive patina with normal wear, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles.
Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
X-Small (34)
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
Retail $ 349.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018
 
Mister Freedom® Skivvy T-shirts / Stanley T-shirts, Two-Pack Edition.
SS2018 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
Popular staples of the MF® Sportsman catalog (our on-going production of all made-in-USA originals), are the classic SKIVVY and STANLEY tubular T-Shirts. Their simplicity, old school fit, vintage demeanor, CoO, …, have appealed to many of our patrons, from bonafide USMC Devil Dogs to Hollywood celebrities.
Skivvies and Stanleys have become second skins for some, worn as undershirts or summer classics, so we are now releasing a Two-Pack option. Our friend Paul Rizzo, who could sell a tank out of an Upstate NY car lot, would call that a “package deal.” Individually priced at $69.95 per shirt, a two-pack is now available for $124.95, a substantial saving indeed. And no, Frank, we’re not throwing in the boonie hat.
For the packaging, we wanted to stay away from plastic/PVC, as there’s already enough of it in our oceans. We went instead for lightweight cardboard boxes, each hand-customized and reminiscent of old military stenciled ammo metal boxes. Please re-use or recycle.
Refer to the original MF® blog posts for specificities of both Skivvy and Stanley T-shirts, specs/sizing/fit/care instructions.
Each box will contain two identical solid T-shirts (no style/color/size mix).
Available options of the Tw0-Pack release are as follows:
* Two-Pack SKIVVY T-shirts (XS, S, M, L, or XL):
White.
Navy Blue.
Sage Green.
* Two-Pack STANLEY T-shirts (XS, S, M, L, or XL):
White.
Heather Grey.
Jungle Green (olive)
Retail: $124.95 (two identical T-shirts only, no substitution. Does not include a boonie hat.)
Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018
 Apache dancers, circa 1925
(Photo Boris Lipnitzki © Roger Viollet) Mister Freedom® ROADSTEADER Cap
NOS selvedge denim edition
SS2018 Sportsman catalog
Made in USA
The Mister Freedom® ROADSTEADER Cap is the latest addition to our Couvre-Chef Department, consisting of a selection of vintage-inspired headwear, revisited à-la MF®.
The line-up already includes our classic Casquette “La Deffe” and ”Scuttler” Cap, both regularly issued in an assortment of vintage New Old Stock fabrics. The full released range of these two popular models can be seen at our Los Angeles HQ, and some can be spotted atop Jack Sparrow’s head.
-
-
JD (Mark Seliger GQ 2015)
-
-
JD Japan (2016)
-
-
JD 2017 (Photo Ian Gavan Courtesy Getty Images EU)
Looking at photos of our new pattern, one will notice that the MF® ROADSTEADER is not a vintage replica, but rather a combo of old-school styles, a mix bag of references to bygone fashions and Costume History, all blending into an irresistible piece of accoutrement for the 21st Century snappy dresser!
We drew pointers from the early fashion of the Apaches of the Belle Époque, the flamboyant ruffians who had inspired a Mister Freedom® collection back in 2011. Late 1870’s illustrations of the infamous Parisian gangsters invariably depict their trademark hat, the Casquette Desfoux, aka ‘deffe‘. Originally a black wool or silk cap with a leather visor (casquette à pont), the style was allegedly borrowed from the Maquignons, livestock traders with a reputation for unscrupulous practices. During the 1880’s, bands of Apaches of the Ville des Lumières also seem to have adopted the Maquignons’ traditional pleated indigo blouse (the biaude or blaude, familiar today to the finest hunters of antique European textiles), along with the wide-wale corduroy trousers favored by wood-workers and farmers.
It may sound quite ironic that, considering how much these french OGs loathed physical work, rather favoring absinthe, pander and larceny, they opted for vestimentary styles so associated with the working class… Might-this have been an underworld well-thought strategy however, one that would facilitate blending in the crowd when chased by a squadron of grippe-coquin (literally “grab-rascal”), aka Gendarmes? Another case for Inspector Clouseau. On a side note for the traveller, don’t go around today addressing a Gendarme as “Monsieur grippe-coquin”, things might get out of hand, and holidays cut short.
All these fine threads could conveniently be stolen from boutiques on the crowded rue Mouffetard (5th arrondissement of Paris), retail destinations such as “Maison Panet”, workwear outfitters and novelty goods purveyors since 1829. On that same street, at number 65, stood another fine establishment belonging to a certain Auguste Bénard, local tailor and… ’inventor’ of the original fashion flares! The flared-bottom trousers that he designed in the 1870’s (“pantalon à pattes” or “pattes d’eph” -literally elephant leg- narrow at the knee with bell-shaped leg opening) were a big hit with the Apaches of the early days, as featured on Théophile Steinlen‘s amazing period illustrations. Speaking of inspiring graphics, check this vintage sheet music blog.
Today, for an older french generation who has no idea who Pikachu is, the street slang term “bénard” stills designates a pair of pants, and “deffe” a generic casquette.
-
-
Maquignons cutting a deal with a farmer (1894)
-
-
Horse market in Chartres (circa 1910)
-
-
“Goualantes de La Villette et d’ailleurs” Émile Chautard (1929)
-
-
Apaches vs. Grippe-Coquins (Petit Journal, 1904)
-
-
Street market Rue Mouffetard, 1900’s
-
-
Rue Mouffetard, 1930s
-
-
(Courtesy “Images Musicales Stories)
Besides this colorful Parisian influence, our Roadsteader design obviously borrows from the traditional Greek fisherman’s cap, and recreational ‘captain’ hat styles, in-turn inspired by military naval covers. This external blog post is a fun illustrated read if you’re into nautical headgear history.
-
-
Elvis in Girls Girls Girls (1962)
-
-
Gary Cooper in Souls At Sea (1937) – Thank you Mr. Sam Cox!
The design process to nail the pattern and construction of our Roadsteader Cap has been quite challenging for our in-house atelier, as attest the many prototypes made. Panels size, seams, stitching, dimensions, leather grade, trims, …, were endlessly tweaked during R&D. Our aim was not to rival with mil-specs hat makers Bancroft Cap Company, or traditional yachting cap specialist Lancaster Hat Co , but we still wanted a hat worthy of being featured in the ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog…
The MF® Roadsteader eventually passed the final exam and survived field-testing.
So there it is.
The MF® Roasteader Cap is designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®.
SPECS:
An original MF® pattern, inspired by an assortment of vintage nautical covers and 1900’s french traditional working-class hats.
FABRIC:
Shell: NOS 2/1 indigo selvedge denim, about 8 Oz. (for reference, similar to the weight of a classic lightweight western denim snap shirt or vintage US Army barrack bag, as opposed to the 12~15 Oz. weight of traditional 3/1 denim 5-pocket jeans.)
Lining: Vintage NOS glazed 100% cotton fabric, silkscreen.
Leather trims: cowhide headband and visor, with genuine kangaroo hide headband lining.
DETAILS:
* Fancy old-school construction.
* Unstructured crown. (no plastic frame)
* Fully lined with NOS black glazed cotton, featuring original MF® silkscreened label.
* Cowhide leather headband.
* Unlined cowhide leather visor with indigo HBT tape piping.
* Genuine kangaroo hide headband facing, with red/white/blue bow.
* Traditional chinstrap was replaced by a riveted strap, featuring concealed denim selvedge ID.
* Made in USA.
SIZING:
The headband size in measured in centimeters. The headband will not stretch altogether, but the kangaroo lining will soften with wear and ‘loosen-up’ the fit a bit.
Size 58 (cm) roughly equates to a 7 ¼ hat size.
Size 60 (cm) roughly equates to a 7 ½ hat size.
Note that the crown of the Roadsteader is unstructured (no plastic frame) so that it will ‘slouch’ naturally with wear. We recommend cocking it to one side, and a bit to the back, for the old-salt vibe.
CARE:
Do not attempt to wash/dry the MF® Roadsteader Cap. Professional spot-cleaning only, if needed. With normal repeat wear, this cap will start to ‘slouch’ and the denim fabric begin to drape naturally. Both the indigo denim twill and leather will acquire a natural patina overtime.
We do not recommend trying to artificially hasten the normal aging process. Just wear and enjoy.
Available Raw/unwashed.
SIZES:
Size 58 (cm) (approx. 7 ¼)
Size 60 (cm) (approx. 7 ½)
Retail $249.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018
Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat, NOS “Congo Gabardine”.
mfsc Sportsman catalog, Spring 2018
Made in USA
To ease into this new year in style, let’s introduce a new member of the Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat family, the first Spring 2018 addition to our all-made-in-USA Sportsman catalog.
This classic and versatile unstructured blazer pattern is already available in an array of fine NOS fabrics, an indigo crosshatch twill, two grey cotton-linen twills, and a light indigo “Player” denim. It now gets an elegant tropical twist with the New Old Stock fabric we recently scored, an 8.85 Oz. blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen, an elegant natural white twill with a subtly-contrasting heather oatmeal warp and white weft. The face of this denim-like fabric displays unbleached slubby flecks of natural fibers, while the reverse shows a whiter cotton yarn.
Our (technically inaccurate) choice of term “Congo Gabardine” is a nod to “Congo Cloth”, a now-defunct rayon fabric typical of vintage tropical attire. Off-white suiting fabrics of the the 1920’s-40’s, such as “Congo Cloth”, or the illustrious Palm Beach Cloth (a cotton/mohair blend fabric milled by the Goodall Worsted Company, and cut into classic “Palm Beach” lightweight suits), certainly convey a bygone tropical elegance often eluding contemporary men’s summer fashion.
The Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat “Congo” features a half-shoulder ‘floating’ lining cut from yet-another fancy NOS fabric, a white sateen twill with a woven green stripe pattern, probably milled in Italy. Our sportcoat’s classic, sixties-style, four-button closure highlights an attractive set of amber brown corozo buttons, adding somewhat of an ‘earthy’ touch while complimenting the tropical theme.
This off-white summer coat can be paired with jeans or khakis for a casual vibe, dressed-up with waistcoat and slacks, styled with neckties or open collars… or rocked full-on Miami Vice.
The Continental Sportcoat is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATERN:
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage cotton work coats and other unstructured blazers, notably a 1950’s French postal uniform jacket.
FABRIC:
New Old Stock ivory-colored twill, 8.85 Oz., blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen, off-white heather warp with slubby oatmeal flecks x white weft, milled origin unknown.
Lining: NOS 100% cotton woven stripe sateen twill, white and green, probable European origin.
DETAILS:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Lightweight and soft, perfect traveling companion.
* High four-button front closure.
* Amber brown corozo wood butons.
* Half shoulder floating lining, 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill.
* Form-fitting back, ventless.
* Three patch pockets, with flaps on hip pockets.
* Concealed ‘passport’ chest pocket.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with lining facing.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, clean caballo flat-felled seam construction, chainstitch on the inside, no open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
This explains how we size our garments.
The Continental Sportcoat “Congo” comes raw/unwashed. We recommend our usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.
I personally opted for a Size 38 in the Continental sportcoat “Congo”, consistant with all of its other iterations in various fabrics.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
Full wash cycle and heat dryer are not recommended.
 
CARE:
Hand wash or machine wash unbuttoned on delicate, cold water with minimal environmentally friendly detergent. Do not use bleach. Line dry.
NOTE: Full washing cycle and heat dryer might result in excessive shrinkage and/or damage, to be experimented at owner’s risk.
Available Raw/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Retail $329.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018
|
