Mister Freedom® MAC Jacket, cotton-back sateen OG-107. “Surplus” catalog mfsc FW 2017 Made in Japan.
Following the recent release of the stellar Apollo ’69 Sukajan, the sultry indigo jungle cloth Jungle Riders and M-17 Parka, and the higge-ly Nixon shirts in red and blue printed corduroy plaid, the anticipated final installment of our Fall 2017 MF® “SURPLUS” line-up is the versatile MAC Jacket.
Design-wise, we simply stripped the US Navy Peacoat early pattern from most of its maritime lineage, save for the two small anchor buttons concealed under the collar to keep the throat latch in place. We basically turned the iconic nautical garment into a lightweight, casual and classic-looking jacket with an outdoor vibe. Those familiar with the MF® catalog will notice that we have already given manyskins to the P-jacket through the years. We wanted a totally new garment this time, blending the vibes of seafaring jackets, Mackinaw coats, US Army M1938 jeep crew coats, vintage casual and old-school utilitarian garments.
The shell fabric we opted for is an old favorite, a US military vintage mil-specs cotton-back sateen cloth, shade Olive Green #107. Access to this special fabric is courtesy of our friend Mr. Kameha, expert Quartermaster at Buzz Rickson’s, the illustrious military uniform-related branch of Toyo Enterprises. We have previously featured this fabric, both on the FW 2014 OG 107 Down Vest and an iteration of the Sportsman Chinos.
For the lining, we opted for a soft-hand printed cotton flannel (same vibrant fabric we cut our 2013 Camp Flannel Shirt from), contributing in giving the MAC jacket its outdoorsy 1950’s flair.
The inspiration for combining the olive green sateen with natural-color leather pocket accents (arrow-head pocket stops and piping) came from an old pair of vintage US Army cold-weather mittens featuring a similar OD poplin shell/leather facing combo. Overtime, the leather acquires an attractive patina, complimenting the olive green fabric. The traditional double pocketing of the lining has been updated for the 21st Century by adjusting the size of the “cigarette pocket” to fit the average smart phone, rather than a pack of Lucky Strike.
The Mac Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: Shell: Mil-specs 9 Oz. cloth, 4/1 (four warp up, one weft down) cotton-back sateen, Olive Green #107 shade (grayish-green, Pantone Color approx reference would be 450 U), milled in Japan. Lining: 100% cotton brushed flannel, discharge-printed with a vintage-inspired plaid pattern. Milled and printed in Japan.
DETAILS: * Pattern based on the early US Navy 10-button melton wool Pea-Jacket. * Brown corozo wood buttons. * Four outside pockets, two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure pockets. All lined with golden brown cotton-wool blend corduroy. * Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (converted into an iPhone6-size pocket). * Natural-color leather piping and arrowhead reinforcement on pocket edges. * 1950’s-style plaid print soft-hand 100% cotton flannel body lining. * Removable chin strap (displaying OD shell or red lining fabric when left dangling, or concealed when buttoned under the collar.) * Traditional Zig-Zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching. * Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The Mister Freedom® Mac Jacket comes raw/unwashed. We recommend an initial cold soak/rinse and line dry. The jacket will shrink to tagged size. This garment is true-to-size. I tend to wear a 38 (Medium) in mfsc jackets, and opted for a slim-fitting 38 in the Mac jacket. The fit is quite snug (wearing a Skivvy T and a Garrison Shirt on the fit pix), so if you are in-between sizes, go for the size up. Please note that the lining will shrink slightly more than the shell, and will tend to ‘pull’ after the garment is rinsed/dried. This is intentional, and a typical (and quite desirable effect) of vintage clothing. Refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements, post cold soak/line dry.
CHART
CARE: We recommend professional dry-cleaning, in your local eco-friendly facility. However, this garment can be hand-washed or laundered on DELICATE, cold water, minimal detergent. Due to the bulkiness and weight of the garment when wet, make sure the capacity of your equipment is adequate before attempting a machine wash at home. Hang dry.
Available raw/unwashed. Sizes 36 Small 38 Medium 40 Large 42 X-Large 44 XX-Large Retail $769.95
Mister Freedom® NIXON Shirt, printed corduroy. “Surplus” catalog mfsc FW 2017. Made in Japan.
This is the fourth addition to our MF® “SURPLUS” Fall 2017 line-up, an on-going concept consisting of timeless classics given a twist à-la MF®, expertly manufactured in Japan by our long-time friends and partners at Toyo Enterprises. The MF® “SURPLUS” collection is the ethically-made-overseas companion of our popular all-made-in-USA “Sportsman” catalog.
For the office anecdote-inclined, we used to refer to this pattern as the ‘Dick Shirt’ during R&D, but eventually settled on ‘Nixon’ for the official release, for obvious reasons.
The pattern of our ‘Nixon’ shirt is largely inspired by an original 1950’s vintage “Roomy Richard” chambray work shirt, a now-defunct American workwear label established in the late 1920’s. The main appeal of that vintage piece was for us the tricky double-layer ‘cigarette’ chest pocket pattern, somewhat reminiscent of the famous Big Yank pocket, familiar to all vintage clothing aficionados. That pocket was designed to keep the worker’s cigarette pack dry.
Original 1940’s vintage “Roomy Richard” work shirt packaging.
If most of us today know better than to donate towards the cause of tobacco companies by purchasing their wares, the practical little pocket can still be used as double storage for, say, both an iPhone and a public transportation ticket/smart card. Beside this fancy characteristic, our Nixon shirt features a chin-strap, triple stitch construction and side gussets, all classic attributes of old-school vintage work shirts.
The fabric we opted for is a 16 wale all-cotton corduroy, discharge-printed with a traditional plaid pattern typical of 1940’s-1950’s vintage outdoor gear, mimicking the appearance of woven checks. Because of the limited bleed-through printing, the reverse of the fabric displays the solid color of the base fabric, not unlike our Sportsman printed Camp Flannel Shirt from 2013. This printed corduroy was exclusively milled for mfsc in Japan, and is released for Fall 2017 in two color options, red plaid and blue plaid.
The Nixon Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: A 16 wale all-cotton corduroy, discharge-printed with a traditional plaid pattern. Milled and printed in Japan.
Two color options, blue and red.
DETAILS: * A pattern inspired by a 1950’s “Roomy Richard” chambray, and other vintage work shirts. * Trim silhouette. * Fancy double-layer left chest pocket, known as “cigarette pocket”. * Corozo wood buttons. * Chin strap, featuring vintage-style mfsc-embossed metal buttons. * Triple stitch construction. * Side gussets. * Tonal stitching. * Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The Mister Freedom® printed corduroy Nixon Shirt comes raw/unwashed. We recommend an initial cold soak/rinse and line dry. The shirt will shrink to tagged size. This garment is true-to-size. I wear a Medium, my usual size in mfsc shirting. The fit is quite trim, with a tapered waist for a slim silhouette. Refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements, post cold soak/line dry.
CARE: Launder when needed. Machine-wash on delicate cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent, line dry.
Available raw (un-washed) Sizes Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large
Poppy Delevingne and Pedro Pascal star in Twentieth Century Fox’s “Kingsman: The Golden Circle.”
Mister Freedom® “Statesman” Jacket. Special Edition “Kingsman: The Golden Circle” for MR PORTER. Made in USA.
We were honored to be considered for outfitting one of the characters of Matthew Vaughn’s latest action movie, “Kingman: The Golden Circle”.
We collaborated with Oscar-nominated costume designer Ariane Phillips, a longtime friend of the store, and luxury menswear provider MR PORTER in adapting one of our staple piece, the Mister Freedom® Campus Jacket.
Our Campus’ 30’s-style club collar was updated to a traditional open collar. Like our original model, the jacket was left unlined, still featuring brown corduroy facing accents. We sourced-out a black cowhide full grain leather with a nice grainy texture and matte finish, for a casual ‘vintage’ vibe straight off-the-rack, without artificial factory distressing. This handsome 2-3 Oz. black leather is heavier, looks ‘tougher’ and more rugged than the elegant black lambskin of our Black Lamb Campus.
This original jacket is worn by Statesman “Agent Whiskey”, a character played by Pedro Pascal, looking rather 70’s Burt Reynolds for the occasion. After the filming wrapped, a very limited run was manufactured, to be exclusively retailed by Mr Porter following the premiere. Luckily, we were able to secure a small stash of these “Statesman” jackets for our Los Angeles HQ!
The limited edition Mister Freedom® “Statesman” jacket is designed and manufactured in California, USA, in collaboration with MR PORTER, for the Kingsman franchise.
To see it in action, watch “Kingsman: The Golden Circle“!
SPECS: PATTERN: An original pattern inspired by classic vintage sportswear leather jackets. LEATHER: Black cowhide full grain leather, grainy texture with a matte finish, about 2-3 Oz. Please note that each panel of the jacket may display slight variations in grain and texture, a normal feature of full grain leather. DETAILS:
* Slim silhouette.
* Fully unlined, clean inside seams.
* One piece back.
* Brown cotton corduroy collar and wrist cuff facing accents.
* Slash pockets with arrowhead-shaped edges.
* Side gussets with adjustable side straps (NOS metal slide buckles).
* Keyhole button holes.
* Dark brown ‘Cat Eyes’ corrozo wood buttons (aka ivory nut), backed by genuine antique 1920’s bone buttons.
* Underarm venting eyelets.
* Double branding, “Kingsman” x “MF® Sportsman” labels on the inside.
* Sturdy poly-cotton thread tonal stitching.
* Made in California, USA.
CARE/SIZING:
This leather jacket does not require any type of pre-treatment and is ready to wear as-is. Do not wash.
After a few years of normal wear, professional care or conditioning might be considered and should be left to a leather specialist.
The cut of the “Statesman” jacket is identical to that of our Campus Jacket introduced in 2013. It is true-to-size but quite slim-fitting, depending of course on your own built. I wear a fitted 38, my usual size in MF® jackets, with a simple Tshirt or light shirt underneath. DISCLAIMER: Please note that because the jacket is unlined, some color transfer of the black leather might occur on light colored garments.
Please refer to sizing chart for approx. measurements.
Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS, NOS black-coated crosshatch denim. Sportsman mfsc Fall 2017. Made in USA.
Originally released in cream and black cotton piqué under the “Speedway Piqué Jeans” moniker during Fall 2011, a modified version (sans buckle-back and with a slightly more tapered leg) made it to our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog in 2015, as the Malibu’s, offered in light indigo ‘sea denim’ and wheat color ‘sand denim’.
This MF® tribute to late 50’s early 60’s popular ‘stovepipe’ type jeans gets another make-over for Fall 2017, this time with a special “coated denim”. This fancy NOS fabric is not the modern waxy black rubber type coating seen on novelty contemporary jeans, but rather an interesting indigo denim twill printed with a soft-hand opaque coat of matte black water-based ink. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the usual light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality..
If this garment initially looks flat black due to the pigment coating, each pair will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo, black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion. See the denim wash test photos below, also featuring a small section rubbed with sand paper.
The mfsc Speedways are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: New Old Stock crosshatch pigment-coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, 12 Oz. Probable Kurabo (Japan) origin. DETAILS: * Inspired by late 50’s early 60’s ’stovepipe’ jeans and vintage casual trousers. * Tab waist band à la McQueen, concealed closure snaps. * No belt loops. * Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when both tabs are fully cinched) * New Old Stock pocket bags: sturdy 100% cotton charcoal grey covert chambray. * Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”. * Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets. * Flat-felled seam ‘caballo’ construction, with Sportsman green color chainstitch accent. * Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The Speedways black-coated denim come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial routine: cold soak for about 30-40mn, spin dry, hang dry. These are true to size, with the industry-standard generous waist (meaning a W32 measures a bit over 32 inches, quite psychologically gratifying for the consumer concerned about his waistline.)
I am usually between a w30 and W32 in mfsc bottoms, and I’m in luck since the Speedways come in W31. I did not yet fully wash/heat dry my pair, and wear the W31 with one side of the snap tabs cinched.
The bottom hem is done by single needle machine, not chainstitch.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw and cold-soaked/hang dry measurements.
CARE: Treat the MF® Speedways black-coated denim as you would fancy indigo denim jeans. Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
If these Speedways denim jeans initially look flat black, each pair will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles.
Mister Freedom® Topsiders, NOS OD HBT (New Old Stock Olive Drab Herringbone Twill) Sportsman mfsc Fall 2017 Made in USA
NOS OD HBT utes?
You no dig dat GI Jive, Jack? Alreeeet.
“P-F-C to the C-P-L to the S-G-T to the L-T C-P the O-D the M-P makes ya do K-P…”
The MF® “Topsiders” pattern was first introduced during our Spring 2014 mfsc “Sea Hunt” collection.
The style was adapted from the familiar WW2 US Navy wrap-leg denim dungarees models. Originally released in the illustrious “Okinawa 301”, a Fall version followed in a special “Marine Nationale” denim twill, both made in Japan at the time.
For Fall 2017, we decided to add the popular Topsiders pattern to our Sportsman catalog, and release a made-in-USA edition cut from vintage New Old Stock fabric, a fine lot of crisp 100% cotton Olive Drab Herringbone Twill. Somewhat similar to the Buzz Rickson’s replica fabric inspired by 1940’s USMC utilities, our NOS textile is in a bit darker shade of green (kinda OG Shade 7 meets OG-107), and features a slightly lighter ounce. Our OD HBT is a bit heavier than the khaki HBT Sportsman Chinos released for Spring 2017, for those familiar with that NOS textile.
High-waisted and full-legged, with a nice drape, our HBT Topsiders are designed with a vintage 1940’s military dungarees silhouette in mind, not yoga leggings.
The MF® Topsiders OD HBT edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Note: Production of the MF® Topsiders come without stencil/perso ID.
SPECS: FABRIC: Crispy 100% cotton New Old Stock Olive Drab Herringbone Twill.
DETAILS: * Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees. * High-waisted, roomy straight leg, vintage 1940’s military utility trousers silhouette. * Wrap-leg construction (no side seams). * Button fly, metal tack buttons, oxidized black donut type. * Vintage USMC-style oxidized black Wreath & Star donut type waist button. * Two functioning rounded-bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded-bottom rear back pockets. * Adjustable back cinch strap. * Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts. * Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam. * 100% cotton tonal stitching. * MF® Sportsman green inside chainstitch accent. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® HBT Topsiders come raw/unwashed. A low-maintenance garment, we recommend an initial cold wash, full agitation, heat dryer. Once washed and dried, the HBT fabric will fully reveal its attractive texture. This process will also emphasize the subtle puckering of the seams/stitching, a commun characteristic of vintage workwear. I opted for a size 32, with a generous waist and full silhouette. I adjusted the back strap strap, fully cinching it. I could squeeze in a Waist 30, but, with this model, subjectively preferred the wide leg and comfortable silhouette of the Waist 32.
Please refer to the chart for approximate measurements. (Raw & fully rinsed and dried)
CARE: The MF® Topsiders NOS OD HBT are low-maintenance.
Machine wash when needed, cold/warm water, delicate cycle, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry or tumble dry.
Available RAW/unwashed. Waist x Length: 28 x 34 30 x 34 32 x 34 34 x 34 36 x 36 38 x 36 RETAIL $289.95
