CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® ‘Veste Ménilmontant’, indigo covert herringbone twill, “GYPSY BLUES” mfsc Fall 2017

Mister Freedom® Veste Ménilmontant , wool-cotton indigo covert herringbone.
“GYPSY BLUES” mfsc FW2017
Made in Japan.

Ménilmontant… mais oui Monsieur!

We’re kick-off the Fall chapter of our “GYPSY BLUES” story to the beat of a 1938 Charles Trenet chanson, given a Jazz Hot treatment in 1949 by a quintet led by virtuoso guitarist Django Reinhardt and violinist Stephane Grappelli.
Dig it!

Our Veste Ménilmontant (veste is jacket in French, and Ménilmontant is a popular neighborhood of Paris) was inspired by a vintage suit jacket, an old beat-up 1920’s-30’s French coat. That original inspirational piece was absolutely striking, with amazing character, classy curves, elegant lines, and worn-out hobo style. Check it out if you visit the old pile o’ rags.
The fabric we chose for our interpretation is a fancy herringbone weave cotton/wool blend, a covert cloth mixing indigo blue, black and slate grey yarns.
Please note that this is quite a period-looking garment, as the Veste Ménilmontant screams Thirties! In part due to the curvy and wide peak lapels, the jazzy belted back accentuating the natural waist, and the overall silhouette. That elegant single-breasted style was typical of Gentlemen’s garb of the time. The four patch pockets with button flaps complete the vintage continental flair of the garment. We played a bit with the lining fabrics to give our coat an Old World meets New World tailor-made touch, mixing French workwear stripe ticking (body lining) with Wabash twill (arm lining).

Style-wise, if a bit concerned about looking like a 1930’s suave crooner, or an extra on Sous Les Toits de Paris, pairing the Veste Ménilmontant with familiar denim favorites should easily dismiss the Jean Sablon vibe. For Heritage Fashion and workwear aficionados, the jacket can also be toned down with a “Dirty Thirties”treatment, i.e. complimented with Great Depression era-inspired outfits.
For menswear and style inspiration, old photos abound. Check out the daily gems featured on Mr. Matt “Warpath” Strickland’s excellent Rivet-Head blog or rockin’ IG account.
For fancy Jazz Manouche-style guitar picks (those featured on the photos are made from vintage NOS casein), and other Hot Jazz guitar-related goodies, look-up Mr. Thomas Davy.

The Ménilmontant Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Herringbone weave blend of cotton/wool, a covert cloth mixing indigo blue, black and slate grey yarns. Milled in Japan.
Body Lining: 100% cotton indigo woven stripe ticking.
Arm Lining: 100% indigo Sugar Cane Co Wabash twill.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by 1920’s-1930’s haberdashery and French vintage Gentlemen’s suiting.
* Period silhouette with elegant lines, cinched natural waist and broad chest and shoulders.
* 1930’s type belted-back.
* Single-breasted featuring curvy wide peak lapels.
* Four patch pockets with buttoned flaps.
* Corozzo wood buttons, amber color.
* Fully lined (combination of indigo stripe ticking and indigo Wabash twill).
* Two inside concealed chest pockets.
* MF® mfsc “GYPSY BLUES” woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The Ménilmontant Jacket comes raw/unwashed. If so inclined, get some light puckering and fabric roping with a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry. This garment runs true to size following this process.
I wear a fitted size 38 (Medium), my usual size in mfsc jackets and coats.

Refer to chart for raw/cold-soaked & line-dry measurements.

CARE:
We recommend hand washing (or machine-wash on delicate, if you use a high-end washing machine), cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not boil this garment, nor set washing-machine to normal/heavy agitation.

Available RAW/unwashed.
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (X-Large)
44 (XX-Large)
Retail $549.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Mister Freedom® “Jungle RIDER’S”, indigo-dyed jungle cloth, “SURPLUS” mfsc FW2017

Mister Freedom® “Jungle RIDER’S”, indigo-dyed jungle cloth.
MF® “SURPLUS” mfsc Fall 2017.
Made in Japan.

Back by popular demand!
We introduced our “RIDER’S” pattern around 2009, as part of the “Speedsafe Clothing For Modern Riders” mfsc capsule collection.
Originally released in “Okinawa 301” denim (Riders Dungarees), these trousers were later issued in khaki chino twill (Chino Riders) and indigo midnight twill (Midnight Riders).

This fall, we are adding the RIDER’S pattern to our recently-announced MF® “SURPLUS” line-up. This 2017 updated version boasts a new skin, a deep dark indigo-dyed jungle cloth, same luscious fabric already featured on two MF® classics, the Mulholland Master and Blouson de Quart of our 2016 tenth Anniversary collection.
To simplify hemming issues, we have removed the ankle pockets. Pocketing is made from a sturdy Mil-Specs USMC vintage-style HBT fabric, courtesy of Buzz Rickson’s. The wide rear belt loop however, special plumber’s edition, is still there.

The “Jungle RIDER’S” are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
The notorious shell fabric of 1940’s USN deck jackets, a tightly woven 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs. Deep and dark indigo shade.
Milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
Pocketing: Mil-Specs USMC vintage-style HBT fabric, Olive Drab, 100% cotton. Milled in Japan for Buzz Rickson’s.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage utilitarian pants, military fatigues and gentlemen trousers.
* Comfortable straight leg silhouette.
* Reinforcement stitching on waistband.
* Metal donut “wreath” buttons, flat black.
* Suspender buttons.
* Watch pocket.
* Side cinch straps, with military-style cinch buckles.
* Wide rear belt loop, special plumber’s edition.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Back pockets ‘sandwiched’ in side seams, Never Rippum-style.
* Tonal stitching.
* Original mfsc “SURPLUS” rayon woven label sewn inside waistband.
* Made in japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The Jungle RIDER’S come unwashed and will shrink to tagged size after an initial 30mn cold soak/spin dry/line dry process.
These are true-to-size and we recommend getting your measured-waist size.
I am usually between a W30 and W32 in mfsc trousers, and opted for a W32 in the Riders. The waist of the W30 is too tight on me, and the W32 fits comfortably, albeit with a fuller silhouette in the leg.

DISCLAIMER: Color croaking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments such as white tucked-in undershirts. Indigo rub-off will wash-off eventually.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CARE
When cleaning is required, turn inside out and hand wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Do not use a heat dryer.

The jungle cloth fabric is quite durable and will sure resist a washing machine delicate cycle, but the indigo will react to excessive and unnecessary agitation by leaving unattractive marbling marks, even if the garment is turned inside out. The first years of care are important to guarantee a nice and natural wear patina.

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28
W30
W32
W34
W36
W38
Retail $449.95

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Introducing MF® “SURPLUS”, mfsc FW2017, made in Japan.

Upcoming MF® SURPLUS line-up, mfsc FW2017.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “MF® SURPLUS”
mfsc Fall 2017
Made in Japan

If you have been following our Mister Freedom® mad scientist fashion journey for some time, you are familiar with mfsc (=Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co) capsule collections, most of them spreading over two seasons (Fall/Winter & Spring/Summer). Those collections are freely inspired by historical and cultural events, with garments designed with fictitious-yet-plausible characters in mind. We have tapped into a few eclectic topics so far, the Vietnam War, the Old American West, the world of 1970’s sailing, 1900’s French gangsters, the Mexican Revolution, motorcycle riding, Gypsy Jazz…. Never a dull moment.

During Spring 2013, we thought of adding a new concept called “The Sportsman”, an on-going non-trend-based catalog of made-in-USA goods, offering a Mister Freedom® take on time-tested classics. Style influences and references for “The Sportsman” were to be drawn from the same mixed-bag of old photos, vintage silhouettes, Sunny California, 1940’s-70’s movies, souvenirs, record covers, dusty Army-Navy stores, and the magical vault of vintage clothing that has always inspired us.

For Fall 2017, we are introducing “MF® SURPLUS”, the made-in-Japan companion to “The Sportsman”. Same concept, no replicas, just a twist à-la MF® on somewhat random timeless garments, with production made in Japan. We will also revisit some old beloved pieces from previous mfsc collections, giving them a new treatment without reshaping the wheel. Our “Surplus” line-up will maximize on the expertise and excellence of Toyo Enterprises’ homeland-manufacturing, allowing for intricate garment construction and challenging cut/sew operations.

Here is a preview of what’s been cooked-up for Fall 2017, and on its imminent way from Japan. Actually, thanks to rocket ship technology, the limited edition Apollo ’69 Sukajan has already landed at MF® HQ!

The full MF® SURPLUS line-up will soon be available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian Lot.64 Buckle Back “Okinawa”, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian LOT.64 BB “OKINAWA” edition.
Sportsman catalog, mfsc FW2017
Made in USA

We are giving our original Ranch Blouse and classic Californian 5-pocket Blue Jeans a new handsome skin for Fall 2017, adding the updated version to our catalog of made-in-USA goodies, regrouped under MF® The SPORTSMAN label.
This fabric option is an old mfsc favorite, the mighty “Okinawa 301”, a ‘hairy’ 14 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, blend of 20% sugarcane fibers and 80% cotton, with a white/green line selvedge ID.
For the occasion, we also tricked-out our Californian LOT.64 by adding a rear cinch (aka buckle-back), thereby introducing yet another member to the Californian family, the LOT.64 BB “Okinawa” with its midnight blue flasher.

The “Okinawa” denim has enviable fading abilities and will progressively develop a desirable patina overtime, with normal wear/wash cycles.
However, it is less the denim type than the actual wearer that should be credited for amazing fade patterns, as demonstrated by the few jaw-dropping worn specimen of MF® Ranch Blouses sported by friends from Thailand, members of the Pronto Denim gang of workwear aficionados. See some examples below.
Not sure what this fine crew does to those jackets, but the results are incredible! Thank you for the commitment and support, Gentlemen. Don’t hesitate to submit a photo (hi-res) of your worn Ranch Blouse to [email protected] (with your full name for proper credit), we’ll happily add them to this gallery and our Mess of Blues line-up!
For more Instagram indigo adventures from the Land of Smiles, check out this denim squad (apologies if i didn’t get the names right):
Mr. Kang Chantrasri (Kan745)
Mr. Yuttapon (Yuttapon23)
Mr. Aticha Tragunthanan (aticha_acha)
Mr. Nueng (Nueng_n93), …
For more cool photos from this fine denimhead community, check out the Mister Freedom® Thailand Gang Facebook group.

: Denim Squad, Thailand. Photo courtesy Kang Chantrasri ©2017

: Ranch Blouse “Uncle Sam” Photo courtesy Mr. Aticha Acha ©2016

: Ranch Blouse “Lot.64” Photo courtesy Mr. Yuttapon Saynongkham © 2016

: Photo courtesy Mr. Kang Chantrasri ©2017

: Photo courtesy Mr. Yuttapon ©2017

: Ranch Blouse “Uncle Sam” Photo courtesy Mr. Aticha Acha ©2016

: Photo courtesy Mr. Yuttapon ©2017

: Photo courtesy Mr. Nueng ©2017

: Denim Squad, Thailand. Photo courtesy Mr. Nueng ©2017

The Californian LOT.64 BB “Okinawa” and Ranch Blouse “Okinawa”, which can be purchased separately, are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from selvedge denim fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS CALIFORNIAN LOT.64 BB “Okinawa”

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* French vintage NOS stripe fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Unbranded natural cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with special 2016 Election red and white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (midnight blue).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.64 BB “Okinawa” blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol cold soak/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.
The size that will work for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear my usual Californian blue jeans W32 in the LOT.64 BB, for a comfortable fit.
The fit pix show a pair of W32, cold-soaked once, worn on/off for about 1 week, with some more shrinkage/stretching down the line.
We recommend getting your usual waist size, although proper fit is a subjective matter and everyone has their own idea of what looks good.
As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.

Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Retail $329.95

SPECS RANCH BLOUSE “Okinawa”

FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301”, a hairy 14 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, white with green line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.
FACING:
French vintage New Old Stock (NOS) woven stripe workwear twill, 100% cotton.
DETAILS:
* Early round-type collar, A-1 style.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original MF® “M” stitching on chest pockets.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* French vintage NOS stripe workwear twill facing for collar and pocket flap.
* Metal cast MF® branded buttons, ‘oxidized’.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer.
* Combination yellow/orange 100% cotton stitching.
* Original mfsc printed cloth label.
* Made in USA

SIZING FIT:
The Ranch Blouse “Okinawa” comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol cold soak/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.
I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in the “Okinawa” version, a cold-soaked 38. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Retail $379.95

DENIM CARE:
Wash denim jeans and jackets when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo original ” Apollo ’69 ” souvenir jacket, Limited Edition, Fall 2017.

Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo original “APOLLO ’69” souvenir jacket.
Limited edition, Fall 2017.
Made in Japan.
(not endorsed by NASA)

If you happen to shake your head in disbelief often, reading news headlines or witnessing high-speed Texting & Driving, avoid a permanent state of misanthropy by calmly repeating these words:
“OK… same species that went to the moon.”
It almost works.

????

For Fall 2017, we are at it again with the today-popular ‘souvenir jackets’, in the footsteps of our Saigon Cowboy “Party Jacket” (Spring 2015) and “Mururoa Jacket” (Anniversary Collection Fall 2016).
Blessed to have the opportunity to collaborate again with one of the World’s most legit manufacturer of Sukajan (スカジャン), “Tailor Toyo” (a branch of Toyo Enterprises, our long-time Japanese partners and friends), we decided to leave battlefields and nuclear testing behind, and look instead towards Cape Canaveral and the amazing moon men of NASA for inspiration.

If July 20, 2019 will mark the 5oth Anniversary of Man’s most famous recorded footsteps, we decided to celebrate a bit early. After a few cups of brain juice, we handed a handful of original doodles and scribbles to the “Tailor Toyo” sukajan experts, along with confusing instructions. Our choice of artwork , garment pattern, combination of colors and knit trims, aimed at creating a plausible ‘vintage’ piece, a jacket that never existed, but with a convincing authentic feel.

As a design anecdote, one will notice that we too added an olive tree branch to our landing star-spangled bald eagle (i.e. the Lunar Module), in the same way that Astronaut Michael Collins edited his original sketch of the Apollo 11 cloth patch. The added symbolic branch better conveyed the initial message of Peace, rather than the menacing attitude of an all-talons-out eagle. The mission’s intent was to “Come in Peace for all Mankind” afterall.
Watch this short PBS clip retracing how the iconic 1969 patch came to be, and featuring Collins’ original historical sketches.

Back to Earth… After submitting the artwork to our friends at Toyo Enterprises, it was time for the MF® team to sit back and resume daily routine, mostly waterskiing and zeroing in on Pokémon. After a lengthy R&D gestation, we are happy to report that our ‘moon jacket’ (how we referred to here) has now landed.
And we kinda dig it.

The “Apollo ’69” souvenir jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Toyo Enterprises.

SPECS
FABRIC:
Luxurious and fine 100% rayon twill.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by vintage traditional Sukajan (originally manufactured in occupied Japan, these garments were tour souvenir custom-made for US military personnel).
* Fully reversible, no inside padding.
* Silk thread embroidery, featuring original MF® artwork relating to NASA’s Apollo 11 Moon landing that occurred on July 20, 1969.
* Vintage-style double-sided “TYE Tokyo” metal zipper.
* Double labelling (inside slash pocket on blue side), featuring both KOSHO & Co (the original name of the Yokohama fabric trading company that would merge with TOYO Enterprises around 1965, today the World’s most respected sukajan manufacturer under the “Tailor Toyo” label), alongside the MF® rayon woven label.
* Limited collector’s edition.
* Designed in USA.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The Apollo ’69 souvenir jacket has been carefully rinsed and steamed by experienced sukajan-expert garment professionals.
It has a vintage appearance due to the light puckering of the stitching and embroidery, and subtle shrinking of the rayon fabric. Do not attempt to hot-soak or wash this garment, it has already been processed and is ready-to-wear.
The Apollo ’69 is true-to-size, with somewhat of a ‘vintage’ fit, typical of the old original rayon Japanese souvenir jackets. I am usually a Medium in mfsc jackets, and opted for a Medium in the ‘Moon jacket’.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements. Note that due to the raglan sleeve pattern, arm length is measured from armpit (not shoulder seam) to knit cuff.

CARE:
Professional dry clean ONLY, in your local eco-friendly dry-cleaning facility.
Again, DO NOT wash this jacket! This is quite a fragile garment, due to both the nature of the fine rayon twill and the intricate delicate silk-thread embroidery that could snag easily. In other words, this garment is not intended for gardening.

Available professionally pre-rinsed.
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

RETAIL $989.95