Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot44 “WIDE LOOM” (Lot44WL), Mount Vernon Mills 14.5 Oz. denim, 2024 mfsc Sportsman catalog. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot44WL “WIDE LOOM” edition
mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in  USA

In the textile industry, the term “selvedge” refers to the finished edges of a fabric loomed on specific machines, as opposed to the frayed edges of a fabric milled on other types of machines. When applied to the Denim Industry in its most recent history, those two end warp lines some like to flash on the outseam of their jeans have become quite the hype.

Since the rise from obscurity of selvedge denim in the late 1980s~early 1990s —  kickstarted at the time by a vintage clothing craze in Japan (then in the USA) unknowingly-creating new international markets — and its follow-up re-introduction by “Heritage Fashion” players in the early aughts, the mighty indigo blue workwear twill has taken many faces: from faithful reproductions of American denims of the Golden Age in traditional weights and colors, to creative interpretations blending cotton and sugar cane fibers (pioneered by Sugarcane co), …, all the way to fashion nonsense in all kinds of silly washes, cuts, and lasered distressed looks.

What started as a niche market mostly catering to vintage clothing aficionados and denim otaku, was bound to eventually evolve in an industry dropping products on the shelves of fast-fashion purveyors such as H&M, Target, Uniqlo, etc… It took a few years, but there they were, selvedge denim bargain pantaloons with a mind-boggling $40.00 retail tag, price landed in the US. Exotic work camps labor magic, I guess?

What is also quite magical is the De Minimis Rule, a little-known loophole allowing consumers to import $800/day without paying duties on the goods, and that since 2016. If this sounds advantageous to the average American fashionista unconcerned by the Country of Origin of what’s in their shopping cart, SHEIN has also been quite thrilled about cheap fashion allowed to cross US borders duty-free, one small package at-a-time…
On the other end of the Garment Industry’s spectrum of nonsense, a pair of $1850 Prada jeans is quite the human feat. Granted those britches are “crafted” in Italy, a country that also produces $7000 faux-denim jeans. All is well.

Back to selvedge denim, not all fabrics woven on narrow shuttle-loom are created equal. Machinery, operators, provenance, yarn content and dyeing process, …, all do matter. An indigo denim slowly-produced in small batches on temperamental vintage Toyoda machines by a reputable Japanese mill will never be comparable to mass-produced renditions milled in China, Thailand, or Turkey.

The fable about Japan purchasing defunct machinery from US mills in the 1980s (when, to boost US domestic productivity and profits, the switch was made from slow shuttle-loom to fast projectile-loom machines) is a well-anchored denimhead myth. Most-likely closer to the truth is that in the early 1970s, a dying textile industry in the Kojima area in Japan decided to switch from producing local school uniforms to making period Taiyōzoku (~rich juvenile delinquent, a Japanese take on 1950’s American “rebels”) style jeans. Kojima makers scrambled to re-rig their old Toyoda looms in order to mill denim fabric the way it was done by the likes of Cone Mills, back in the day. They succeeded, and managed to eventually top their American masters, as crafty Japanese artisans on survival mode often do when on a quest to revive authenticity, and not only in the textile industry. The attention to details, work ethics and dedication, are usually what gives Japanese craftsmen the lead. For those interested in that background, read the insightful 2015 book Ametora.

Back on point, there is a lot of cheap selvedge denim out there. There is also premium non-selvedge denim fabric, woven on projectile loom machines, known as wide-loom denim.
For this special edition of our Californian Blue Jeans, we thought of the unthinkable, and opted for the later.

One of the design decision was made because we happened to stumble across some very handsome NOS (New Old Stock) denim yardage with an attractive and classic indigo-dyed warp color. The other reason is because that fabric was produced by a plant located in Georgia, USA, namely Mt. Vernon Mills. They’ve only been around for 175 years, but that pedigree will work for us!

There is also something kinda cool about sporting a pair of premium denim jeans boasting overlocked outseams in 2024 — made in USA, the old-school way, period construction/trims and all — , as a birdie to fast fashion. For the cuffers out there, the subtle pleasure of looking like the guy who doesn’t know in the eyes of the fashionista/denim snob confusedly-staring at your non-selvedge ankles could be priceless.

For those concerned about #denimfades, especially on Fridays, I’ve seen many well-worn used Levi’s 501s in the rags (i.e. post-1981 non-selvedge loomstate denim) with amazing “blue collar” type fade patterns/whiskers, and many very boring pairs of selvedge jeans. Why? Because the former were properly and frequently worn, while participating in activities not only involving sofa gaming or binging on Netflix.

For the cut, we decided to pull out the Mister Freedom® Lot44 pattern out of retirement, our earliest period cut. Wide leg, mid/high waist, 1930s-40s vibe silhouette.
Trims and construction are in par with our fancy USA-made Californian standards, from all-cotton two-tone thread stitching to rear pocket bartack and riveting, to all around classic detailing. Fabric is the novelty, and the message.

We also decided to release the Lot44WL (Wide Loom) in two options, a buckle-back version (an old garment design feature with roots in 19th Century European tailoring, before the advent of belts helped with keeping one’s britches up), and plain back style.

The CALIFORNIAN Lot44WL “Wide Loom” are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1930s-1950s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT44 cut features a classic old school fit, mid-rise with a full straight leg and wide period silhouette.
Two model options:
1) Lot44WL-BB: featuring buckle back cinch and belt loops.
2) Lot44WL-PB: plain back, no cinch strap.
FABRIC:
All American NOS non-selvedge denim, 14.5 Oz. indigo 3 x 1 right-hand twill, wide loom, milled in USA by Mt. Vernon Mills.
Pocketing: NOS 100% cotton “Troy Twill” fabric, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Traditional mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed silver tack buttons.
* Overlocked leg outseam (non-selevdge.)
* Classic NOS cotton twill pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket.
* Concealed back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, cobalt blue.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian Lot44WL jeans come UN-WASHED (raw) and we recommend the following protocol before wearing:

  • Fill a tub with cold water.
  • Soak jeans for about 30-40mn, occasional hand agitation.
  • Line dry.

The Lot44 is the widest silhouette of all our Californian cuts.
The Lot44WL (Wide Loom edition) features a full straight leg and a very generous waist (about 2’’ larger than tagged size.)

The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.
At 5’7 ~145 Lbs., I opted for a tagged W30 (with a post-rinse measured waist of ~32’’), for a wide leg and 1930s~50s period silhouette.
I wear my Lot44WL Buckle-Back with the waist slightly cinched, and a VEB belt to keep them up!

CARE for your MF® denim jeans:
Wash your jeans when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.

• Turn jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric.
• Machine wash separately from light-colored garments, using cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent.
• Line dry.

Note: using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® BERKELEY Family addition: Revisited Button-up Shirt Pattern, NOS Indigo Dobby Stripe. Made in USA

 

 

Mister Freedom® BERKELEY Shirt, Revisited Button-Up Pattern.
NOS Indigo Dobby Stripe edition.
SS2023 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

This edition is a full button-up version of our classic button-down collar BERKELEY Shirt pattern, an early 1960s-inspired garment with a vintage preppy vibe, a nod to 1960s American campuses attire, California old-school collegial wear and casual Ivy-League style. The moniker is a reference to UC Berkeley, and its rich history.
Several versions (in short-sleeve or long-sleeve) of our BERKELEY are available in the Mister Freedom® USA-made “Sportsman” catalog, a pattern introduced with the original 2018 Bleeding Madras S/S edition.

Followed a string of timeless classics, produced in limited runs:
* NOS indigo/white hickory stripe L/S
* NOS brown “Cacao” chambray L/S
* NOS traditional navy/white plaid Madras L/S
* NOS “Krazy” Madras S/S
* NOS Albini Italian linen red/blue woven checks S/S
* NOS Albini Italian white/blue woven stripe L/S

For this release, we tweaked the BERKELEY’s pull-over pattern into a full open-front style, aka button-up pattern.

The fabric we opted for scored in a Downtown LA jobber warehouse — is one of the most unusual textile we’ve worked with! A very peculiar New Old Stock indigo Dobby Stripe with amazing texture, pattern, and incredible slub, origin unknown. The fabric is reminiscent of a specific family of antique hand-loomed Japanese textiles, for those familiar with our vintage boro selection at LA HQ.

Very temperamental and challenging to cut/sew — production was a  tour de force for the local factory — this beautiful fabric takes all its vintage appeal and uniqueness after the shirt is first rinsed.
Just be ready: the indigo color will pop, texture intensify, ribbed woven pattern subtly oscillate, seams/stitching pucker, panels organically torque, …, turning the BERKELEY into an incredible AREA 7161 wall hanger!
This shirt was, however, designed and intended to be worn, so do take it out around town, and enjoy compliments from random strangers.

The BERKELEY is an easy-to-wear garment with a classic menswear style vibe, to be paired with your favorite jeans, NV slacks, Sportsman chinos or bermudas

The MF® BERKELEY shirt is designed and made in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage 1960’s Ivy League style, and American campuses attire with a period preppy vibe. This edited pattern is a full button-up version of our original pull-over Berkeley Shirts.

FABRIC:
Vintage New Old Stock indigo Dobby Stripe, dry hand 100% cotton, attractive woven pattern with unusual slubby horizontal ribs, textured and breathable, origin unknown.

DETAILS:
* Full button-up open front revised pattern.
* Long sleeve edition.
* Classic 1960s button-down collar.
* Indigo-dyed corozo wood “Cat-Eyes” buttons.
* Two inverted-pleat chest pockets.
* Side gussets.
* Tailored-style sleeve setting.
* High count 100% cotton stitching.
* Chain-stitch caballo construction, featuring “Sportsman” green thread accent on inside.
* MF® woven “Sportsman” rayon label.
* Designed and made in USA from New Old Stock fabric.

SIZING/FIT:

The BERKELEY Shirt, indigo Dobby stripe edition, comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this straight-forward easy protocol:

  • Rinse in cold water, machine setting on delicate, full cycle.
  • Line dry, no heat dryer.

At 5’7 ~145 lbs, I opted for a SMALL for a trim fit, classic 1960s silhouette, personal preference. We recommend getting your usual size in MF® shirts, or size up for a more relaxed cut.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate soaked/rinsed measurements, and reach out to [email protected] for further sizing advise.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE “RINGO”, Black Tea-core Veg-Tan Cowhide Leather Edition, evo. Made in USA FW2021.

 

 

A reminder that if you do wear the clothes you invest in, they will eventually look worn.

Mister Freedom® “ARISTOCRAT” Shirt, NOS Stripe Albini Linen & NOS Kuroki Double Indigo Twill. Made in USA

 

A naturally sun-bleached MF® Aristocrat, Kuroki double indigo twill ©2024

 

Mister Freedom® “ARISTOCRAT” Shirt, NOS Stripe Albini Linen & NOS Kuroki Double Indigo Twill.
SS2023 & FW2024 mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

The Mister Freedom® ARISTOCRAT is our humble attempt at a straight-up menswear dress shirt, stylish yet unpretentious, classic yet original, with our commitment to continue producing it in USA. It has made recurring appearances in the MF® Sportsman catalog in a variety of internationally-sourced fancy fabrics.

Initially introduced in a Japan-milled selvedge Oxford cloth (Sportsman Fall 2020), it was followed by a EU NOS dobby stripe version (Sportsman Fall 2021), an Italian NOS Albini stripe linen edition (Sportsman SS2023), and now available in a Japanese NOS Kuroki double indigo twill (Sportsman Fall 2023.)

The original design of the ARISTOCRAT was inspired by several vintage American and European classic dress shirts and sportswear shirts from our archives.
Our intent was to merge traditional shirting details, revisit old patterns, and simply create an elegant, versatile garment, a modern classic with subtle vintage references.
The connoisseur will notice the nod to gents’ outfitters Turnbull & Asser – and other bespoke shirtmakers – in our choice of “Regent” spread collar shape dig that subtle curve although we opted for an unstructured collar construction (no fusing) for a more casual vibe.

We really wanted the single chest pocket design to be 100% MF®, and serve as outside branding, rather than an embroidered logo. Our R&D team got extra cups of brain juice to reinvent the wheel, one that would spin our own yarn, and got to work. Sketches were drawn, prototypes made from scratch, and a eureka moment came sometime in February 2020 when a re-imagined classic pocket finally surfaced from the drafting table: a simple diamond shape with an elegant curved fold and streamlined single-needle stitching.

The specific off-set shirt tail cut, front button placket construction, and double button rounded cuffs, were also thoroughly considered and tweaked until it all worked out for our aesthetics.
The shirred rear panel with its rounded piecing patch is a detail borrowed from early European shirting, and, along with the classic side gussets, add to the refined and subtle vintage appeal of the ARISTOCRAT.

For the silhouette, we opted for a trim fit, adjusting body pattern and side curves to convey broad shoulders and slim waist, balancing with a traditional shirt tail length.

Construction-wise, the US factory did a remarkable job with the stitch count, closely following tech pack for the magic high number, matched by a fine thread gauge. Because of obvious productivity issues, it is often a challenge to convince factory owners of committing to higher-count stitching settings. This can almost double production time (= double production cost), but the results are stunning and always make a garment stand-out next to a more hastily-constructed one. Anyone able to spot a cheap suit will notice the difference.
So, tip of the hat to the family-run local Los Angeles factory that keeps producing our ARISTOCRAT.

The ARISTOCRAT is complimented by genuine mother of pearl buttons, another reference to traditional European bespoke tailoring, while the chainstitch construction (using MF® signature green contrast stitching) brings it down a few notches with a workwear touch (bespoke shirts often feature French seams, not chainstitch.)
The discreet red bartack on the side gusset is a nod to the red stitched “H” of the iconic Hathaway brand, one of the last American shirtmaker to produce shirts in the USA, until they gave up on that endeavor around 2002…

Photos above are a visual round-up of our current ARISTOCRAT family, featuring the latest additions: New Old Stock Albini stripe linen edition (an Italian mill producing fine fabrics since 1876), and its Japan-milled Kuroki double indigo twill sibling. The latter is also photographed next to a “sunshine” prototype that has been sitting in the California sun for a few months as an experiment. The indigo twill fabric developed an amazing chemical-free patina.

All in all, our ARISTOCRAT is a reimagined vintage-style classic dress shirt, versatile, casual, easy go-to garment. Dress it up with a suit or down with a pair of blue jeans, wear it with a tie or open collar, tucked or untucked, all it asks is to not be left out in the closet!

The MF® ARISTOCRAT Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage American and European dress shirts and classic sportswear shirts.

FABRIC:
a) NOS Albini white & blue woven stripe, 100% linen, light weight, breezy, milled in Italy.
b) NOS Kuroki double indigo twill (indigo warp x indigo weft), 100% cotton, 7 oz., solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Classic, versatile, elegant yet casual shirt style.
* Slim and trim silhouette.
* Traditional spread collar with a British flair.
* Original chest pocket design, diamond shape with MF® signature curved fold and streamline pocket stop stitching.
* Rear panel shirring with rounded piecing patch.
* Side gussets.
* Off-set shirt tail lengths (slightly longer rear tail).
* Red bartacks accent on gusset.
* Genuine mother of pearl buttons.
* Double-button rounded cuffs.
* Elegant front button placket pattern.
* High-stitch count and fine thread gauge construction.
* Chainstitch construction with signature inside contrast green stitching.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Sportsman” rayon woven label.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The ARISTOCRAT Shirt comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this protocol:

  • Rinse in cold water, machine setting on delicate, full cycle.
  • Line dry, no heat dryer.

I opted for a Medium for a trim fit. I am 5’7 ~145 lbs. We recommend getting your usual size in MF® shirts, or size up for a more relaxed silhouette.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate soaked/rinsed measurements.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

 

Mister Freedom® DRIVER Trousers, double indigo Jelt twill, SS2024 AREA 7161, made in Japan.

“Joe, your ability to take instant naps, even when it rains, will never cease to amaze.”

Mister Freedom® DRIVER Trousers,
mfsc SS2024 AREA 7161 collection.
Made in Japan.

Welcome to AREA 7161, a Mister Freedom® stylistic spin on menswear, with one of the US Government best-kept secret as its historical background: “The Ranch”… Not exactly the dude type, but an uninviting remote location in the Nevada High Desert, some 80 miles from Las Vegas, NV, a mysterious spot better known today as AREA 51.
This classified Top-Secret and highly-restricted area once was a forgotten air strip on natural salt flats located in Groom Lake, Nevada, initially built during WW2 as gunnery range for USAAF pilots. It was secretly reactivated in 1955, codenamed Watertown, as a R&D facility for a range of covert projects.
In this hard-to-access isolated High Desert location, CIA and USAF pilots, Lockheed “Skunk Works” engineers and test pilots, mechanics, …, helped develop and fly U-2 spy planes and their legacy under Project Aquatone.
From mechanics to engineers, clerks to brass, cooks to security guards, everyone involved was on a strict need-to-know basis. And what one needed to know was limited to the scope of the individual’s job. In case anything leaked, ramifications were few, and rumors easily dismissed as nonsense from too much exposure to the pounding 120 degree desert heat. Lockheed radar specialist Edward Lovick recalled: “Once I saw a coyote, chasing a rabbit, and they were both walking.”

Anecdotally, to add an extra layer of secrecy and confusion during internal radio/printed communication, the code term “driver” was used when referring to a test pilot. Back at “Paradise Ranch” in the 1950s, when news that a driver” was shipping out from Lookheed HQ in Palmdale, CA, to spend some time with the latest Dragon Lady, folks knew it meant an incoming maverick to the compound, i.e. a new U-2 test pilot from “the Industry or Government.”
During local U-2 test flights (what is believed to have triggered a UFO sighting craze in the US at the time) and obviously during covert missions over enemy territories, pilots were instructed not to wear US military uniforms or easy-to-ID gear. Should an unfortunate bailout occur, traceability needed to be kept to a minimum, to prevent communist media/propaganda from exploiting the incident.
(Source Area 51, Annie Jacobsen, 2011.)

With that light Cold War historical background in mind, the Mister Freedom® “DRIVER” Trousers are inspired by a vintage pair of 1950s US Navy Service denim dungarees (to be precise, CONT, DA-30-352TAP-2031, with a “US Naval Reserve Clothing” cloth label hand-sewn next to the bottom hem!), a not-so-common vintage piece from our archives.

Vintage 1950s US Navy Service denim dungarees (CONT, DA-30-352TAP-2031) US Naval Reserve Clothing, pattern inspiration for the Mister Freedom® DRIVER Trousers ©2024

We revisited the silhouette and awkward “ballooning” leg of the original, for an attractive 1930s-40s fitted top block and straight wide leg.
If this design oddity didn’t confuse Igor enough, we thought of cutting our Drivers in a non Mil-Specs fabric, a deep dark double indigo “Jelt” selvedge twill, 10 Oz., milled in Japan.
The potential patina on those pants promises to be nothing short of phenomenal with proper wear and occasional wash routine.

The Mister Freedom® DRIVER Trousers are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Dark double indigo “Jelt” selvedge twill, 100% cotton, 10 Oz., milled in Japan.

SPECS:
* Original mfsc pattern inspired by a vintage pair of 1950s US Navy Service dungarees, with a revisited utilitarian cut and silhouette.
* Period high-waisted style.
* Slash front pockets, self fabric pocket bags.
* Rounded rear patch pockets, USN dungarees style.
* Darted rear panel, no back yoke.
* Waistband utilizing fabric selvedge ID on the inside.
* Painted black brass metal donut buttons for waist & fly, 1940s-style laurel leaf starburst type. Paint will chip with wear.
* Flatlock chainstitch construction throughout, all clean seams.
* Bar-tacked stress points.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Triple labeling: printed “Experimental Garment” label inside waistband, woven “Area 7161” rayon label on pocket bag, period-style Mil-Specs contract tag outside waistband.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING:
The DRIVER Trousers come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry and/or line dry.

I went with a W30 for a comfortable fit (5’7 ~145Lbs)
The period fit of the Driver Trousers is somewhat similar to our denim Raiders, with sligthly less taper to the leg opening.

CARE:
Low maintenance, launder when needed.
We recommend turning the garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the fabric. Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024