Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot.674, sugar cane fiber “301 Okinawa” 14 Oz. left-hand twill denim, Spring 2017, Made in USA.

Worn on/off for ~ 2 months.

 

Mister Freedom® Californian Lot.674 Blue Jeans, “301 Okinawa” 14 Oz. sugar cane fiber left-hand twill denim.
Spring 2017 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

Introduced sometime during 2010, the Mister Freedom® Californian Blue Jeans is our interpretation of the classic five pocket denim jeans. In the past seven years, we have released several versions of the pattern and fit. Here is a brief recap:

* Californian Lot.54 (yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.44 (box package, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
* Californian Lot.64 (red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim
* Californian Lot.654 (yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64E (red/white stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.

 

For Spring 2017, we are welcoming a new member to the Californian Blue Jeans family: the Lot.674.

Still refraining from releasing denim in an array of unnecessary washes and factory-distressed options, the Lot.674 comes in its original raw indigo loomstate. Its raison d’être, as part of the MF® Sportsman catalog, is in its classic mid 60’s slim silhouette. With no intent to reinvent the wheel, we combined the pattern of our popular button-fly Lot.64 with the slightly tapered leg of the zip-fly Lot.74. With even lesser of an intent to tap into the competitive market of sprayed-on men’s jeggings, we merely put a 60’s surf movie twist on our classic five-pocket Californian. The Lot 674 is our slimmest jeans silhouette, and is as slim as we’ll go.

Conan O’Brien, not wearing a Mister Freedom® Californian Lot.674.

For its introduction, the Lot.674 pattern gets royal treatment with a special “301 Okinawa” coronation!
An old mfsc favorite, this sturdy 14 Oz. left-hand twill selvedge denim fabric is a blend of 80% cotton and 20% recycled sugar cane fibers, a novel textile exclusive of Toyo Enterprise, originally developed some 25 years ago for their Sugar Cane Co workwear label. This is a new freshly-milled batch we have been waiting for for a while. The “301 Okinawa” is the same ‘hairy’ denim we used on the first project designed for our Sugar Cane Japanese friends and partners, namely the original mfsc 7161 Utility Trousers (2005). That denim was also used on the Vaquero Jeans (Viva la Revolución 2013), the Okinawa Patrol ShirtDenim Topsiders and Watchman Jacket (Sea Hunt 2014), the Lot.64 Californian “Okinawa” (Sportsman Fall 2014), …
With normal wear and wash cycles, the “301 Okinawa” develops quite an attractive and natural patina. Pictures above feature a mix of several raw/soaked once/slightly worn pairs of Lot.674.

The Californian LOT.674 blue jeans are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by traditional 1950′s-1960’s era blue jeans, traditional fit, slightly tapered leg for a mid-60’s vibe.

FABRIC:
“301 Okinawa”, sturdy 14 Oz. left-hand twill denim, blend of 20% recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton, white/green selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
Pocket bags:  Vintage NOS French workwear fabric, 100% cotton.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* French NOS fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Unbranded natural cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (ivory).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT
The Californian LOT.674 blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing: cold soak/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.

The size that will work for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear a slim leg yet comfortable tagged W32 in the Lot.674. The fit pix show a pair of W32, cold-soaked once, worn on/off for about 2 months, with some more shrinkage/stretching down the line.
We recommend getting your usual waist size, although proper fit is a subjective matter and everyone has their own idea of what looks good.
As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.

Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available RAW/unwashed/Un-sanforized
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L34
W38 x L34
Retail $329.95

Now available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

©2017

Mister Freedom® “Liquette Manouche”, GYPSY BLUES mfsc Spring 2017

Manitas De Plata, French Gitan, checking out a Manouche.

Mister Freedom® “Liquette Manouche”, printed cotton poplin.
GYPSY BLUES mfsc collection Spring 2017.
Made in Japan.

For our GYPSY BLUES collection we are releasing two specific mens shirt designs, both with somewhat of a bohemian vibe.
First number up in our string swing venture is the Liquette Manouche, a shirt pattern inspired by a vintage 1930’s-40’s French pull-over garment from the MF® archives, introduced in two color options.

This model features a col requin (shark-fin-shaped open collar, later to be associated with casual 1950’s European sportswear style shirting), a two-button front half placket, shirred back yoke, and classic early EU tailoring arrowhead-shaped side gussets, precursor of the now-common ‘heritage’ workwear design  gimmick.

Liquette is old French argot (slang) term simply designating a man’s shirt. A Manouche is a person of Western European Romani ancestry. Belgium-born Django Reinhardt, mastermind of the world-renowned musical style Jazz Manouche in the 1930’s, is one of the most illustrious French Manouche.

The base fabric we opted for is a fancy tightly-woven 100% cotton poplin. With a crisp hand, it features a polka-dot pattern printed with a bleed-through technique. We could not find any better dots than the Polka variety to give our Liquette Manouche its Bohemian vibe.
Polka, with its humble folk origin in early 1830’s Czechoslovakia, might not be a predominant influence for burgeoning artists performing on their Youtube channel today, but it predates Justin Bieber’s impact on popular music, and will likely outlast him. Granted, Polka music is an acquired taste. So is yodeling.

Back on Gypsy style. Along with their 2000-year-old traditions and lifestyle rooted in India, West-bound Romani groups also hauled their indiennes flamboyant garb on the nomadic journey they started in the 14th century.
In popular culture today, close to reality or not, a repeat of small ‘flowery’ motifs often carries that ‘Bohemian’ style vibe.
Anecdotally, authentic India-designed prints could be considered as precursors of the quintessentially-British Liberty London style, as they were originally available from Arthur Liberty’s first retail venture in London (England), a bazar he had appropriately named ‘East India House’ in 1875, specializing in imported Oriental goods. He went on to opt for local production and designs, with great success.

The MF® Liquette Manouche is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Fine 4 Oz. printed 100% cotton poplin, bleed-through technique, in two color options.
Milled and printed in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by 1930’s French shirting and vintage bohemian style.
* Pull-over style, two button placket.
* ‘Col Requin’ style open collar.
* Amber color corrozzo wood buttons.
* Shirred back yoke and cuffs.
* Early-type arrowhead side gussets.
* Contrasting front/back shirt tail.
* Original mfsc Gypsy Blues woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Liquette Manouche comes raw/unwashed.
Follow the usual initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry.
This shirt is true-to-size and we recommend getting your normal mfsc size. I often wear a Medium in mfsc shirts and i opted for a comfortable Medium in the Liquette Manouche.

Please refer to chart to figure which size works for you. If still confused, email sales@misterfreedom.com

CARE:
Low maintenance. Machine wash on delicate when needed, cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.

Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Retail:
Blue poplin or Red poplin: $349.95

Now available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Mister Freedom® Carré Provence, Indigo Blue & Rouge Turc, “GYPSY BLUES” mfsc Spring 2017

Provence Landscape by Henri-Edmond Cross (1900)

Hi ?

Recommended fashion applications of the versatile MF® Carré Provence.

Mister Freedom® Carré Provence, Indigo Blue & Rouge Turc.
Gypsy Blues mfsc Spring 2017
Made in Japan

Textile printing allegedly originated in India, but i’ll spare you the 4000 years old odyssey.
Paisley designs have their roots in the Persian Empire (modern-day Iran), and made their way West in the 17th century, via textile cargoes of ships from the East India Company. With the popularity of these exotic motifs growing with locals, the city of Marseille, France, pioneered bootlegged renditions, printing cotton “Indiennes” as early as 1640…
For more interesting textile History, visit the Musée de l’impression sur étoffes (Mulhouse, France).

Whether headwear or neckwear, printed colorful scarves are a staple in Romani culture imagery.
We combined several antique French regional scarves to come up with our MF® Carré Provence. The nod to Provence, is in the ‘olive floret’ center repeat, a motif familiar to the connoisseur of traditional textiles from the South of France.

Although our scarf is not a straight-up replica, similar cotton shawls featuring leaves and boteh in bold red and blues were produced by textile printing factories in the Alsace region, France, around 1820’s-30’s. One of the typical color was the famous Rouge Turc or Rouge d’Andrinople (Turkey Red or madder red), which involved a then-challenging and stomach-churning dyeing method. We assumed some of you might object to wrapping their neck in a cloth dyed in a concoction of sheep’s dung and olive oil, so we went for a traditional bleed-through silk-screening method for the printing instead.

Our Carré Provence comes in two color options. The red version is very much Rouge Turc-like, and the blue accents are actual indigo blue. The second version is also actual indigo blue, with Rouge Turc  and other vibrant accents.
The carré (pronounced ka-ray, meaning a square shape) features two selvedge sides and two hemmed sides. It measures 34.5 inches x 34.5 inches, much larger than a regular bandana.

With this handsome versatile accessory accompanying our Spring 2017 Gypsy Blues story, we are guaranteeing endless hours of fun. Indeed, explore its boundless fashionable reincarnations with friends, family, and neighbors! Do the Marius, the Django, the Jean Gabin, the Manitas De Plata, the Highway Bandit, the Carmen Miranda, the Lawrence of Arabia, the Tom Mix, the Toothache, the Geronimo, the Fortune Teller, the Calico Jack, the Burka Provençale, the You-Name-It…

The Carré Provence is re-imagined in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Printed fine 100% cotton fabric, bleed-through silkscreening, 34.5 inches selvedge to selvedge, milled and printed in Japan.
Two options:
* Indigo Blue.
* Rouge Turc.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by antique French printed scarves from the 1820’s-30’s, and traditional and regional motifs.
* Actual indigo print.
* Two selvedge sides.
* Large format for your headwear or neckwear preference (34.5 inches x 34.5 inches, about 87cm x 87cm).
* Made in Japan.

CARE:
Low maintenance. We recommend initially washing in cold water, delicate cycle, machine or hang dry. Fashion to taste.

Available raw/unwashed.
One size.
Retail $129.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Mister Freedom GILET GADJO, indigo cotton-linen HBT and Stripe Covert, “GYPSY BLUES” mfsc Spring 2017

Young Gypsy (photo Lucien Clergue, 1959), courtesy Atelier Lucien Clergue ©1959

Cristóbal De La Marina Del Rey, with duende ©1966

Caravans (Vincent Van Gogh, 1888)

Gilet Gadjo, indigo cotton/linen HBT & cotton covert stripe.
“Gypsy Blues” mfsc collection Spring 2017
Made in Japan

The Romani term “gadjo” refers to folks of non-Romani origin. It is today quite a common colloquialism in Southern France, and is used to designate a male individual (as in ‘guy’ or ‘dude’).
Vise-moi un peu le gadjo!” (Check out that dude!).
Chances are you could hear that one a few times, should you find yourself around the Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer on May 24th, walking around town sporting Mister Freedom®’s latest.

The pattern of the MF® GYPSY BLUES Gilet Gadjo is inspired by 1910’s-1930’s French Gentlemen’ waistcoats. The shawl lapel, fine sateen back, cinch back strap and fancy lining make for an elegant addition to the discerning gadjo‘s closet. We took the dandy vibe a notch down by donning our gilet a set of donut-shape metal buttons as front closure, hardware parts usually reserved for vintage workwear-type garments.

The two fabric options were introduced with the release of our Veste Belleville. An indigo-dyed cotton/linen HBT (the same sturdy fabric of our Waterfront Coat, indigo-dyed to a dark and rich hue), a textile inspired by early French firemen uniform of the 1900’s, and a 100% cotton stripe covert fabric, a sort of heather charcoal grey salt & pepper with a subtle woven stripe pattern, developed from a vintage swatch of 1930’s French workwear NOS textile. Both fabrics were milled in Japan.

Familiar to the EU vintage clothing aficionado, French waistcoats from the 1920’s-30’s typically feature a stern shell (often black wool serge) and an unusual inner lining (fancy printed fabric probably left-over from a custom shirting project). It is not uncommon to come across such tailor-made vintage specimen with a formal appearance and a flamboyant inner lining.

Digging through the archives, we found limited NOS yardages of forgotten textile goodness from past mfsc collections, and decided to use that as linings on this project. Both indigo discharge calicoes are from our MEN of THE FRONTIER days, namely the Apache and Pueblo Trade Shirt.
But, for heaven’ snakes, what do American cowboys have to do with French gypsies you axe me?..
The relevance would be Old-West-obsessed Folco de Baroncelli and the Gardians of Camargue, aka ze French cowboyz. The famed horsemen of the delta of the Rhone, Southern France, typically wear shirts with traditional calico-type motifs from Provence. Camargue’s most iconic commune is Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, pilgrimage destination for Gypsies from the four corners of Europe.
Voila the common thread.

 The Gilet Gadjo is designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE Co.

Credits: Lucien Clergue‘s 1959 photograph courtesy of Lucien Clergue Atelier.

SPECS:
FABRICS:
Option A
* Front panels: A sturdy 15 Oz. blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton indigo-dyed HBT textile, selvedge, milled in Japan.
Please note that some light streaking can be observed on some garment panels at times. This is due to the nature of indigo-dyeing this specific heavy textured fabric. This is not considered as a defect, and will subside with wear. This indigo-dyed fabric is very light sensitive and its hue will evolve rapidly.
* Back panel: 100% cotton sateen back, lined with indigo discharge print poplin, mfsc “Pueblo” calico. Solid indigo-dyed fine cotton poplin front panel lining.
Option B
* Front panels: A lighter 9 Oz. covert woven stripe 100% cotton fabric, milled in Japan.
* Back panel: 100% cotton sateen back, lined with indigo discharge print poplin, mfsc “Apache” calico. Solid indigo-dyed fine cotton poplin front panel lining.

DETAILS:
* Original mfsc pattern inspired by 1910’s-30’s European tailor-made fancy waistcoats.
* Elegant and traditional silhouette, to match higher-waisted trousers or blue jeans.
* Shawl lapel.
* Chest darts and early waistcoat gussets and paneling.
* Fancy indigo discharge-print calico poplin lining.
* Sateen back, oxidized black color.
* Cinch back strap, with vintage-style metal prong buckle.
* Three welt pockets.
* Utilitarian unmarked ‘donut’ metal buttons (copper for the indigo, brass for the covert)
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
Both fabric options come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual method, initial cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
I opted to size down on both the indigo HBT and the grey covert. I usually wear 38 (Medium) in mfsc jackets, but went with a 36 (small) with the Gilet Gadjo, for an old school fit and high-waisted silhouette. The fit photos shows both sizes/fits, 36 and 38.

Please refer to chart to figure which size works for you. If still confused, email sales@misterfreedom.com

 

CARE:
Indigo HBT: When needed, hand wash or machine wash on delicate, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Turn inside-out to avoid marbling of the fabric. Line dry ONLY.
DO NOT use heat dryer as this will leave marbling lines and set un-natural creases to the indigo HBT linen fabric.

Covert stripe: Machine wash on delicate, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.

DISCLAIMER: Use caution when laundering, as the metal buckle of the cinch strap has sharp prongs that could get snagged and damage this (or other) garment(s).

Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Retail:
Indigo HBT: $399.95
Covert Stripe: $379.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Conductor Jacket, Malibu denim, Sportsman Catalog Spring 2017, Made in USA.

Salut les filles.

 

Ze conductor, Jean Gabin in “La Bête Humaine” (1938)

Conductor Jacket, selvedge “Malibu” denim.
Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2017
Made in USA.

We are adding a new pattern to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog this Spring, a fancy Choo-Choo Charlie denim jacket for the caboose-inclined and vintage iron horse connoisseur.

We wanted a work jacket a bit different from other chore coats, engineer jacket, railroad jackets, farmer jackets, …, of the same family. So we grabbed a few pointers from our 1920’s-inspired Loco Jacket (“Viva La Revolución”, Spring 2013), and built one up from scratch, with all original pocket designs and details. Adding elegant tailoring touches to vintage workwear functional ruggedness, we cooked-up a garment that addresses both the sturdy trainman and the gentleman passenger. Our Conductor Jacket makes it easy to switch from shoveling coal to sipping a libation at the plush red velvet wagon-bar.

The fabric we opted for is a MF® favorite, the light-color indigo “Malibu Denim”, milled in Japan, introduced a few years ago. It is quite tricky for a dye-house to control a lighter shade of indigo (darker shades are easier to keep consistent, as you can always do another dip…), so we are very happy that this new 2017 batch is as beautiful and unique as its 2015 and 2016 predecessors.

With normal wear, this Malibu denim will fade to an attractive range of exotic and dreamy lagoon blues. Its specific indigo hue makes it quite complimenting to other darker denim twill garments, khaki chinos etc…

The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Original mfsc “Malibu Sea” denim, 13 Oz. indigo-dyed denim twill, solid white selvedge. Milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets.
* Four original MF® pocket-shape designs.
* Elegant front panel cut-away.
* Watch compartment on left chest pocket.
* Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS woven stripe cotton poplin.
* Inside iPhone chest pocket
* Black oxidized donut wreath buttons.
* Collar chin strap with contrast copper donut button.
* Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID.
* Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit.
* Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles.
* Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
* As an optional step, wear the garment briefly when still not fully dry, in order to slightly shape it to your body and set creases. Hang and let fully dry.
When following this routine, the denim garment will dry quite stiff, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and will subside with normal wear.

I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
We recommend turning the jacket inside out to avoid marbling on the indigo side.
Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast colors fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Retail $ 379.95
Available from our Los Angeles ol’ pile o’ rags, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017