Mururoa Atoll, Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia, 1980.
Nuclear test on Mururoa, 1971. Courtesy Getty Images, Gallerie Bilderwelt.
Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo ‘Mururoa Souvenir Jacket’ Fall 2016 Limited Edition Made in Japan
When one thinks of French Polynesia, what pops to mind is often quite ethereal. Upa Upa moves, paréo attire, whiffs of monoï, slurps of coconut juice, vahiné and turquoise lagoons,selfies in speedos… and an urge to learn how to weave your own tāupo’o, a traditional Tahitian hat entirely made from a branch of pandanus, a native shrub also know as -I’m not making this up- screw pine.
My pandanus, Bora Bora, 2016.
Not to darken that vista with a radioactive plume, but should you ask Tuamotus‘ residents about the Mururoa atoll, you might get exposed to a slightly different perspective. There was trouble in paradise.
Watch this (in french), if so inclined.
This Fall 2016 Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo collaboration, our second venture into camouflaging a heavy past in fashionable lightness, is referring to the controversial legacy of 50 years of nuclear testing conducted by the government of France on the remote atoll of Mururoa, from 1966 to 1996.
Our ‘souvenir jacket’ is no replica and was conceived from scratch. Because there’s always two sides to a story, it is also fully reversible.
The limited edition ’Mururoa Souvenir Jacket’ is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and expertly-crafted in Japan by world-famous Tailor Toyo, purveyors of fine historical sukajan-type garments. Tailor Toyo is a branch of Toyo Enterprises, parent company of our long-time partners and friends Sugar Cane Co and Buzz Rickson’s.
SPECS FABRIC: The reversible “Mururoa Souvenir Jacket” can be worn either side out. Side A:
A soft, pleasantly non-itchy, dark navy blue melton wool fabric (90% wool – 10 % Nylon). This is the same wool fabric used by Buzz Rickson’s for their 10-button USN WW2 replica peacoat.
Side B:
A blend of 57% cotton and 43% rayon black twill. This is the twill used by Buzz Rickson’s for their 10-button USN WW2 replica peacoat lining. This side features original artwork rayon yarn embroidered.
DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by local-made vintage ’souvenir’ garments, cut from recycled Government-issued military uniforms. Our jacket takes cues from vintage USN Dress Blues that could have been customized into a zip-up jacket by a local tailor.
* Fully reversible and comfortably wearable on both sides even with a short-sleeve shirt.
* 1950’s style reversible sukajan double pull “TYE Tokyo” metal zipper.
* Original MF® artwork back embroidery on Side B, rayon yarn stitching.
* US Navy Dress Blues chest pocket and arcuate back yoke.
* Six pockets total.
* Two MF® original design liberty cuffs.
* Side cinch tabs, USN CPO anchor buttons.
* One piece chin strap collar pattern.
* Double labeling, MF® & Tailor Toyo woven labels concealed in left pocket.
* Limited Edition.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The “Mururoa Souvenir Jacket” is true to size. This is a dry-clean only garment, so no shrinkage issue.
I wear a 38, my usual size in mfsc jackets. The jacket fits quite snugly when zipped-up, but with enough room to be worn with a MF® Tricot Marin and a Flannelette Garrison Shirt without impairing on your morning Tai Chi routine.
Please refer to sizing chart for measurements.
CARE: Professional eco-friendly DRY CLEAN only.
Available RAW/unwashed SIZES:
X-Small (34)
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
“Blouson de Quart”, indigo jungle cloth issue Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection
Moving along with our Fall 2016 Anniversary Collection, marking ten years of collaborations with our friends at Sugar Cane Co (Toyo Enterprises).
Here is a popular classic pattern we have been playing with for years: the USN Deck Jacket, aka N-1.
Our version is not a period replica, those being abundantly available today from various brands, but rather our twist on several vintage Government-issued foul weather jackets. Freely mix-matching models and types from the US Navy and Marine Nationale (French Navy) of the 1940’s through 1960’s, we released the first iteration in 2008, the original Type N-1H deck jacket of our 2008 “Naval Clothing Tailor” early mfsc adventures. The Type N-1H never existed as a USN-issued garment, but after mixing deck jacket models for our original design, we simply added the “H” of hook to “N-1” for the name.
A Troy blanket-lined version followed for Fall 2010, the Type N-1H “Troy” issue. Vintage Navy deck coats were so popular at the time thatJ.Crew even picked up some of ours to spice-up their menswear catalog.
In 2014, the “Sea Hunt” collection featured yet another twist on the pattern, the Blouson de Quart, in mil-specs khaki jungle cloth. (The original blog post features some old French Navy photos that inspired this version.)
Original MF® mfsc Type N1-H Deck Jacket (2008 issue)
Original MF® mfsc Type N1-H “Troy” Deck Jacket (2010 issue)
Original MF® mfsc Blouson de Quart (2014 issue)
For Fall 2016, we thought of a new deck jacket hybrid model, a modified indigo-dyed N1-H/Blouson de Quart . If we had made use of indigo jungle cloth in the past (N-1Z Deck Pants), we really wanted a darker shade of indigo for this Anniversary event. We made a special request to the textile experts at Sugar Cane Co and, as always, they delivered.
At the prototype stage, we found the color mix of that deep indigo blue and the chocolate brown alpaca so attractive that we went full alpaca lining, body and collar.
Made from high quality (period mil-specs) fabrics, our deck jacket is solid and quite warm, as they were originally intended to be, to keep sailors protected from the cold and damp marine air while on deck duty.
Please note that more recent R&D has concluded that layering is a key requisite to shield from the cold. Modern military-issued field gear typifies this evolution, and bulky garments are now obsolete and have been replaced by lighter hi-tech clothing worn in layers.
The mfsc “Blouson de Quart” in indigo jungle cloth is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
NOTE: For production, both MF® and “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” woven labels are sewn separately, not overlapping. Above photos are of an early show sample.
SPECS FABRIC:
* Shell: Tight weave 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, dark indigo blue, milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
* Lining: Warm, non-itchy, soft-touch wool pile alpaca full lining, chocolate brown color, vintage mil-specs.
DETAILS:
* Freely inspired by 1940’s-1960’s vintage US Navy and French Marine Nationale foul weather-type deck jackets issued to enlisted personnel.
* Double front closure featuring both a 1950’s-type TALON zipper, and a wind flap secured by 1940’s-type clip hooks.
* Full lining, vintage USN-style chocolate brown wool pile alpaca. * Alpaca stand collar, chin strap.
* Concealed chill-protectant wool knit cuffs.
* Synch adjustment string.
* MF® teardrop hand-warmer pockets, lined with golden brown cotton corduroy.
* Tonal poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Limited Ten Year Anniversary Edition.
* No outside military markings.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
We had these jackets professionally rinsed. NOT distressed, but gently rinsed and tumble-dried. Our indigo jungle cloth Blouson de Quart is pre-shrunk, and true to size. I wear a comfortable 38 in this coat, with room for a denim jacket or wool sweater underneath. Please note that I am wearing a Fletcher L/S T-shirt, a chambray Patrol Shirt, a CPO Shirt 189ac and a Cowboy Jacket on the fit pic. Toasty.
We have taken the measurements to the best of our abilities. Refer to our sizing chart and remember that measurements are from the outside of the fabric. The lining is about ¼ inch thick, which reduces the inside room by that much.
CARE: Please DO NOT try to wash this jacket in a home washing machine! You risk ruining both machine and jacket. The Blouson de Quart weights a ton when wet, the metal hooks will get snagged, the indigo-dyed fabric will get marbling marks etc…
Activities and frequency of wear will dictate when cleaning is needed. Please use common sense with spot cleaning or take the jacket to a professional eco-friendly cleaner. The jacket can also be hand-washed in a tub filled with cold water. Use eco-friendly detergent for delicate colors. Hang to dry. With normal wear and outside exposure, the indigo-dyed jungle cloth fabric will develop an attractive patina.
Available rinsed/pre-shrunk.
Sizes
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large Retail $949.95
Mister Freedom® Naval Chinos, Type No.266ac, selvedge indigo cotton canvas. Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection Made in Japan
A nod to our early collaborations with Sugar Cane Co, specifically the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” capsule collection of 2008, we are issuing our original “Naval Chinos” again this Fall. With a pattern inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, this Ten Year Anniversary edition will come in two very distinct options, indigo canvas and chino twill.
First to be released is a dark indigo yarn-dyed selvedge cotton canvas model. This is the same fabric used for our recently-released Anniversary Liberty Issue CPO Shirt.
Please note that this is canvas and not twill, canvas is plain weave, twill has a diagonal pattern. This indigo fabric is very different from the indigo-dyed ‘midnight twill’ types (also referred to as double indigo denim) we have often used in the past.
Canvases and twills both drape very differently, and canvas often feels and looks stiffer than twill. And stiff our indigo canvas Naval Chinos are at first! With normal wear/wash cycles, the fabric will not only naturally soften, but also fade nicely.
The MF® “Type MFSC No.266ac” Naval Chinos, indigo canvas model, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC: Sturdy and dry 100% cotton canvas, 11.7 Oz., dark and deep shade of double indigo warp and weft, white with red line selvedge ID, milled in Japan. Due to heavy starching in the milling stages, this fabric feels quite stiff at first and even more so after the initial recommended cold soak/hang dry process. This is normal and will gradually subside with normal wash/wear cycles.
SPECS: * Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Stripe ticking cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Selvedge ID displayed on pocket facing.
* Button fly, brown corrozo wood buttons.
* Front slash pockets and back welt pockets featuring arcuate decorative stitching.
* Watch pocket.
* Double MF® woven labeling on inside waist band.
* Concealed cloth label for custom markings on lower leg, French Navy style.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Made in Japan, designed in USA, worn around the World.
SIZING/FIT: The indigo canvas Type MFSC 266ac Naval Chinos come raw/unwashed/loomstate.
We recommend an original 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, then spin dry cycle. Hang dry.
The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I wear a comfortable Waist 32 in these chinos. No need to size up or down from your actual measured waist size.
As the attractive fit pix suggests, these feature a vintage silhouette, mid rise, with somewhat of a classic leg, neither slim nor baggy.
Refer to chart for soaked measurements.
CARE: We recommend hand washing this garment when laundering becomes necessary. The loss of indigo dye will then be minimized.
If using a machine, turn the trousers inside-out to avoid marbling, use cold water and minimal eco-friendly detergent, and set to ‘delicate’. Line dry.
Please note that color crocking is to be expected, as it is the nature of indigo to rub off.
Available RAW (unwashed) Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
This handsome 7.3 Oz. fabric features a nappy brushed warp (the face), contrasting with the twill pattern visible on the weft side (the reverse). This type of fabric is reminiscent of vintage brushed cotton camp shirts made of Canton flannel (another exotic word for it), solid or printed (as we did on our MF® Camp Shirt), a popular garment for the outdoorsman in the 1940’s-50’s. The textile feels warm, very soft and comfortable to the touch, in contrast with the stern military uniform character and pattern of the MF® Garrison Shirt.
The MF® Garrison Shirt, indigo-dyed brushed flannelette, is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC: Soft 100% cotton brushed twill aka flannelette, indigo-dyed, dark shade, 7.3 Oz., milled in Japan.
DETAILS: * An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage military EU and US uniform shirts and tailor-made garments. * Intricate button placket construction. * Double chest pockets, arcuate flaps, one cut away pocket with pen compartment. * White ‘Cat Eyes’ corrozo wood buttons (not plastic). * Elbow reinforcement patches. * Black 100% cotton twill collar facing. * Side gussets. * 100% cotton stitching, black on face, white on inside. * Flat felled seam construction, inside contrast chainstitch.
* Original MF® rayon woven label. * Designed in USA, Made in Japan, Worn Internationally.
SIZING/FIT: The indigo flannelette Garrison Shirt comes raw/unwashed. We recommend an initial 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and hang dry. The tagged size reflects sizing after undergoing this initial process. I wear a comfortable Medium in this Garrison Shirt indigo flannel issue, my usual size in mfsc shirting. I am expecting a bit more width shrinkage in the shirt worn in the fit pic, once it goes through normal washing cycles.
Please refer to the sizing chart for post-soak measurements. Soaked in cold water, hung dry.
CARE: Machine wash on delicate, turn the shirt inside-out to avoid marbling, use cold water and minimal eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Please note that minimal color crocking is to be expected, as it is the nature of indigo to rub off.
Available RAW (unwashed) Sizes: Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Mister Freedom CPO Shirt, “Type MFSC 189ac” Indigo canvas, “Liberty Issue” Fall 2016 Made in Japan.
For our Fall 2016 10 Year mfsc Anniversary Collection, we decided to pull one of our popular shirt pattern out of retirement, namely the “Type MFSC 189” originally released sometime in 2008. This imagined “Chief Petty Officer” shirt emerged out of our first original mfsc scenario, “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor”, a capsule collection featuring the custom-made wardrobe of a fictitious Merchant Navy sailor in the 1930’s…
Story aside, this CPO shirt shows manufacturing prowess, and features intricate details and challenging construction.
Introduced in a 6 Oz. denim for SS2008, a fancy mermaid cuffs version “Liberty Issue” in 10 Oz. sugar cane fiber denim followed for FW2008, the Type MFSC 189md. For FW2010, a 10 Oz. woven pincheck “Off Duty” version was released (Type MFSC 189-od), along with a 10 Oz. double indigo ‘midnight twill’ (Type MFSC 189-mn).
For the nostalgia-prone, here are a few images of bygone MF® CPO Shirts models.
The original “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” collection, 2008
The first “MFSC Type 189” pattern, 2008
CPO Shirt, Type 189md, 2009
Ooops.
“Midnight” CPO Shirt, 189mn, 2010
“Off Duty” CPO Shirt, 189od, 2010
We decided to milk that coconut again for Fall 2016. This season’s edition of the CPO Shirt, the “Type MFSC 189ac”, is issued in a dry 11.7 Oz. indigo-dyed selvedge 100% cotton canvas, a fabric yarn-dyed and milled in Japan.
Like its 189md predecessor, the 189ac features Liberty Cuffs, an old naval tradition familiar to many fashionistas by now. Our 2016 vintage-style liberty cuffs are updated with an original MF® design, featuring – alert the PC brigade – a groping octopus sporting a bachi (the French Navy cover with its famous red pompon) chasing an attractive mermaid in her birthday suit. Flash the Splash at your own discretion.
For the adventurous type, these cuff linings do have a purpose and can be used as concealed storage for an emergency sawbuck folded in four. While bar hoping with the ship’s finest on exotic shores, and after noticing your wallet’s gone MIA at Suzy’s Red Dragon Den, this is a nice touch.
Another nice touch is the rainbow-color chainstitch adorning the inside of our CPO Shirt, a nod to period custom naval tailoring favorited by sailors of the Asiatic Fleet and discussed briefly while introducing the Mister Freedom® Liberty Crackerjack.
The Liberty Issue “Type MFSC 189ac” CPO Shirt is designed in California by Mister freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar cane Co.
FABRIC: Sturdy and dry 100% cotton canvas, 11.7 Oz., dark and deep shade of double indigo warp and weft, white with red line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Due to heavy starching in the milling stages, this fabric feels quite stiff at first and even more so after the initial recommended cold soak/hang dry process. This is normal and will gradually subside with normal wash/wear cycles.
SPECS: * Original mfsc pattern originally released in 2008.
* Limited “mfsc Anniversary” 2016 edition.
* Freely inspired by period USN uniforms, 1930’s – 1940’s military shirting, naval custom tailoring and vintage “Chief Petty Officer” type shirts.
* Vintage-style ’Liberty cuffs’, featuring original MF® artwork, colorful mermaid and octopus embroidered on a black 100% rayon background.
* Rainbow-color chainstitch on the inside.
* Concealed chest ‘passport’ pocket.
* Original inverted box-pleat arcuate single chest pocket.
* Chin strap.
* Contrasting underarm blue chambray gussets.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Vintage style button front placket, anodized black snap closure.
* Waist closure anchor button.
* Shoulder yoke, vintage uniform style.
* Curvy front and back shirt tails.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Designed in USA, manufactured in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The indigo canvas Type MFSC 189ac CPO Shirt comes raw/unwashed/loomstate.
We recommend an original 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, then spin dry cycle. While still damp, wear the shirt briefly to shape to your body (avoid white T-shirts), then hang dry.
The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I am a Medium in mfsc shirting and opted for a Medium in the CPO Shirt. No need to size up or down from your usual mfsc shirting size.
Refer to chart for soaked measurements.
CARE: We recommend hand washing this garment when laundering becomes necessary. The loss of indigo dye will then be minimized.
If using a machine, turn the shirt inside-out to avoid marbling, use cold water and minimal eco-friendly detergent, and set to ‘delicate’. Line dry.
Please note that color crocking is to be expected, as it is the nature of indigo to rub off.
Available RAW (unwashed) Sizes: Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
