If mixing old and new is nothing new in fashion, we at Mister Freedom® have an urge to explain why every time we do it.
Semiotics are often not a big concern for trend bloggers and fashion publications, but because MF® has chosen for the past ten years to address a mature, discerning audience, this blog exists. Most of us deserve and should be interested in actually knowing about what’s on our backs, how and why a garment came to be, let alone where it was manufactured.
Often, and to better illustrate the release of specific pieces, we will share slices of History, along with the Mister Freedom® fashion fiction. I personally would find very little satisfaction in illustrating and documenting my work with mere Pitti Uomo snapshots of dudes on ciggy breaks. Participating in cat videos going viral is great, but sharing meaningful and useful content feels even better. As a bonus, on a self-serving business level, the Mister Freedom® background stories ensure that one is well-informed about our intentions before frantically banging on the ol’ keyboard about our garments. ?
Speaking of cowboys, here is a brief cosmetic yet functional update for my perso MF® x Tailor Toyo “Saigon Cowboy” Party Jacket from 2015. It was an early prototype and, unlike the released production run, did not have pockets on the ERDL side. Finally got to remedy that by adding one pocket, got too lazy for two, salvaged from an old torn-up 1968 US Army jungle shirt. Note that I had to open the zipper seam in order to stitch the pocket to the camo side only, and not to all layers.
For the story, worn-out uniforms were often recycled in the field. The valuable fabric could be turned into a custom cover, extras pockets could be added to another fatigue shirt for extra storage on long patrols… Anecdotally, some elite Navy Seals team members seem to have had their civvy blue jeans fitted with recycled jungle fatigues cargo-style pockets, a rather unusual bit we had hinted at while introducing our Lot.64 “Okinawa Advisor” dungarees.
On a much less heroic front, having an extra pocket on my jacket sure beats fondling for one when not wearing the garment denim side out. I also find the texture/color contrast of vintage rip-stop ERDL next to our mfsc cotton poplin ERDL quite interesting.
Overtime, I’ve added old patches, custom hand stitching and pins, not to pretend I nor my jacket has seen the bush, but for the contemporary relevance of the message carried by our Vietnam War-inspired Party Jacket.
One might notice the circa 1968 vintage LBJ “Kill For Peace” button , in good ol’ serial killer panda fashion.
“Are you taukin to me, again, foo?”
CL
Mister Freedom®
©2016
MF® Cowboy Jacket (2015 edition) and Lot.74 (SS2015 model)
The “Fletcher” T-Shirt, made in USA
Sportsman catalog Spring 2016
We will keep this one brief, so that we can all go back to waterskiing.
The “Fletcher” is a new addition to The Sportsman catalog and is simply a long sleeve version of our popular MF® Stanley T-Shirt. Here is how we originally introduced Stanley, in June 2015:
“… Meet Stanley, Skivvy‘s little brother.
Both Skivvy and Stanley bodies share the same T-shape design, construction and pattern specs, originally inspired by a vintage 1940’s USMC sage green undershirt, as outline when we originally released the Skivvy T-Shirt in 2013. We are still using tubular knit, flatlock seams, roping collar and fitfies-style 1/4 sleeves. And still making it in the USA.
For the Stanley T-Shirt however, I wanted a lighter gauge fabric. Our inspiration this time was more ‘old souvenir shop’ or vintage ‘PX merchandise’ than Mil-Specs. We were lucky to score a very special slubby and light-weight 100% cotton jersey, milled in the USA. Those partial to modern, oversized, heavy-weight T-Shirts might consider our Stanley fabric a bit ‘cheap’ and thin… But that’s exactly what we wanted, there’s plenty of the Beefy-T kind around.
Those familiar with vintage clothing, will notice that this specific fabric is quite reminiscent of 1960’s-70’s tourist T’s and rock T’s (often imports from Pakistan at that time). For the collector, that family of vintage T’s stands out for its loosely knitted stretchy jersey, heavy twist and distortion of the fabric, and dreadful shrinkage that often turned tourists shirts into unwearable cropped tops after the first hot wash.
We decided to get smart and conducted extensive shrink tests to make our Stanley T-Shirt actually fit after laundry. The Stanley fits pretty much like our Skivvy, although featuring much more mechanical stretch due to the looser weave. The Stanley all-cotton jersey has a ‘memory’ and reverts to its intended fit after stretch. As was the case with the Skivvy however, it is normal for a T-Shirt to feel snugger when first slipped on in the morning than at the end of the day…“
Now, our Fletcher fella. If the name reference can be found on the HMS Bounty’s roster, the style doesn’t need much pitching. We just… extended the sleeve length. The sleeves fall just on or above the wrist. This relatively shorter length detail is lifted from military and workwear-type undershirts. It prevents the undershirt from sticking out of the top garment, and guarantees that no extra fabric gets snagged in machinery/gear. Specs and fit are otherwise the same as the Stanley‘s.
The “Fletcher” does not really have a utilitarian/military vibe however, and is intended as a practical and comfortable piece for layering. It can be worn oyaji-style (ie tucked-in), or untucked. We also opted for simple folded cuffs for the sleeves, as opposed to the traditional tighter ribbed knit type cuffs. This gives the Fletcher T-Shirt its casual vibe.
Due to the specific lightweight slubby cotton knit jersey, the garment stretches with wear, as much as the Stanley does.
About the color options…
In between waterski runs on the LA river, we figured we’d indigo dye a few Fletcher T-Shirts. The availability of the indigo version will be very limited, but we will try to do a batch once in a while. Our expertise in indigo dyeing is in par with our competence in brain surgery and quantum mechanics, so results will vary, both in color intensity and uniformity (without of course falling into the dreaded tie-dye family).
At MF®, we tend to take wabi-sabi to the next level ?, so in general, for professionally and evenly-dyed indigo fashion garments, Japan is the ticket.
Having said that, I’m happily endorsing our in-house Mickey Mouse indigo operation. I’ve been fully comfortable wearing the indigo dyed garments coming out of our back lot for years, from one-of-a-kind vintage pieces to the Campus Cardigan… We have now been experimenting with our vats for a some time, and the results are quite satisfying. Just don’t ask our team of rocket surgeons how they pull it off!
Also, one of the target colors, the lighter “pastel” indigo blue featured on one of the photos, has proved very challenging to duplicate in significant quantities past the sample-making stage, so we’ll put that one on the back burner for now. Email sales@misterfreedom.com for status on the pastel indigo. At this time, we are only offering the medium dark indigo shade range featured on the photos.
Please note that our purdy MF® “The Sportsman” woven labels are painstakingly sewn in after the dyeing process, to avoid the quite unappealing and ‘cheap’ over-dyed-garment look, a personal preference.
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The MF® team of rocket surgeons, Indigo-Dyeing Department.
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Color inconsistency is purdy purdy
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It’s wabi-sabi…
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And he waki-waki…
The Stanley T-Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% cotton light-weight slubby tubular jersey knit, milled in the USA. This fabric twists and torques. This natural yarn distortion is expected and is not a default.
COLORS:
* White
* Indigo blue, medium dark.
DETAILS:
* Original Mister Freedom® T-Shirt pattern, inspired by vintage 1940′s-50′s cotton T-shaped undershirts.
* Long sleeve, wrist or just above wrist length.
* Folded wrist cuff, no rib knit cuffs.
* Tubular knit (no side seams)
* Cover stitch self-fabric neckband.
* Normal mechanical stretch and fabric memory.
* Combination of flatlock and cover stitch construction, inspired by 1940′s USMC Government issued undershirts.
* 100% cotton thread, for natural roping on seams.
* Original MF® “The Sportsman” black woven rayon label on neck band.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The white Fletcher T-Shirt comes unwashed and will shrink to the desired tagged size after an initial wash/dry cycle. The indigo version has already shrunk to the desired size.
The Fletcher fits like the Stanley does. Remember that, due to the nature of the stretchy jersey, the Fletcher/Stanley might feel looser at first than its Skivvy predecessor.
I wear Medium (38) on most MFSC garments, but sized down to a Small for all of our MF® T-Shirt styles (Fletcher, Stanley and Skivvy), just personal taste. According to your built and silhouette preference, get your normal size or size down for a slimmer/shorter old school fit.
Refer to sizing chart below for washed/machine dried approximate measurements (measured flat, without pulling/stretching). Please note that my shirts on the fit picture were just freshly laundered and machine dried, ie. at their tightest/shortest, which accounts for the Nureyev vibe ?.
CARE:
Low-maintenance as a T-Shirt should be, just throw your Stanley in the washer/dryer, cold or hot water, delicate cycle. No bleach. Keep colors separate to avoid potential color transfer when doing laundry.
SIZES:
Small
Medium
Large
XLarge
RETAIL:
White Fletcher: $69.95
Indigo Fletcher: $129.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2016
Safe Rock’n’Roll for the kids by “Big Dave” Cavanaugh, who went on to become president of Capitol Records in the 70’s…
Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf Rock & Roll Shirt
“Rocket 88” Edition, Spring 2016
Following the Spring 2015 introduction of our Rock’n’Roll shirt collaboration with famed Aloha shirt master Sun Surf, here is the much-anticipated Vol.2, stage companion to its “Action Packed” predecessor… the “Rocket 88” edition!
It might sound awkward to name a shirt “Rocket 88” and have it not feature an Oldsmobile, but the story is somewhere else.
“Rocket 88”, a fast I-IV-V number recorded in 1951 by Jackie Brenston & his Delta Cats, is considered by some to be THE first recorded Rock’n’Roll song. The Rhythm & Blues outfit responsible for the hit was actually Ike Turner’s band under a pseudonym. Besides penning the original tune, Turner is featured tickling the ivories on the intro, an intro lifted note-for-note in 1958 by Little “Good Golly Miss Molly” Richard.
So, was Rock’n’Roll born in March 1951?…
The lines between musical plagiarism and ‘inspiration’ have always been pretty curvy, and that from the days of Mozart and Beethoven. In the United States, following the court rulings in the 1950 “A Little Bird Told Me” case, song covers have been considered legally sound. Actually, the court was not just debating about a cover on that one, but a pure copycat version. Compare Paula Watson’s original song here, and Evelyn Knight’s cover here. Paula Watson’s record company lost.
The legality flood gates were opened, and, arguably, to the benefit of pop music home listeners. Ethical issues aside, legit covers tend to pull great songs out of anonymity, so that they live forever. If Arthur ‘Big Boy’ Crudup sadly got peanuts for his genius 1946 “That’s All Right Mama” in the unequivocal style he pioneered, it is hard to regret the impact of the 1954 cover. Realizing that his creations only brought fame and fortune to others, leaving him penniless, Crudup boycotted the ‘golden’ age of Rock’nRoll and regrettably stopped recording for years.
Hopefully Henry Thomas got something out of Canned Heat‘s hijack, and Oscar ‘Buddy’ Woods is getting a kick out of Petunia & the Vipers’ clip…
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Ike Turner’s Kings of Rhythm, 1956 (Courtesy Getty Images)
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Sam Phillips at work, 1950’s
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Arthur Crudup, RCA promo shot, 1945
Besides the major issue of proper and timely financial compensation, a shameful flaw in the Music Industry judging by the ratio of skinny artists to fat producers and forgotten talents to celebrated couacs, it can be argued that duly credited covers are a needed and normal part of the evolution of Music. Most truthful song writers will admit that composing is about reproducing sounds you’ve already heard. Tens of thousands of years ago, these were the sounds of Nature, and a bit more recently, the sounds off the radio. Paul McCartney confessed that he held on to “Yesterday” for months after writing it, convinced he had already heard the melody somewhere before…
Back on track, a cover of “Rocket 88” was also recorded in 1951 by Bill Haley and his Comets, shortly after Turner’s. Adding a Western Swing touch to it, this managed to infuse more ingredients into the Rock’n’Roll stew, all the while laying down the foundations of Haley’s famous “Rock Around The Clock” style.
The fuzzy guitar sound of the original “Rocket 88” recording would also become important in rebellious youth music. See Paul Burlison of The Rock’n’Roll Trio’s efforts on the 1956 “The Train Kept-a Rollin” for more legendary fuzz. If in both instances, rumor has it that the specific guitar sound was due to a malfunctioning tube amplifier, sound distortion helped, at times, mask the limitation of one’s guitar playing, as those two awful guitar breaks by said Paul Burlison tend to confirm. Hard to blame the stage monitors (or lack thereof) on this one, considering how Scotty Moore usually managed his licks, despite the screaming of hundreds of hysteric gum-chewing teenage girls. No wonder studios often resorted to replacing ‘what the cat dragged in’ by competent, consistent, in-house musicians.
I do love and respect the early Johnny Burnette stuff, but music geeks today know that the six-string well-crafted solo gems on the Rock’n’Roll Trio’s recordings are courtesy of Grady Martin, the studio’s “A Team” genius guitar man. The rest, more ‘basic’, are Paul Burlison’s work.
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Tiny ‘Train Kept-a-Rollin’ Bradshaw
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Burnette Brothers and Paul Burlison, 1956
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Bill Haley & his Comets (1956)
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Grady Martin (1950’s)
Whether or not Turner’s “Rocket 88” from January 1951 is the first official recorded iteration of Rock’n’Roll is still heavily debated in roots music circles. Could it be Wild Bill Moore or Jimmy Liggins in 1947, Wynonie Harris in 1948, Jimmy Preston in 1949, Erline Harris in 1950, … ? Could there be possible candidates amongst late 1940’s-early 50’s Hillbilly Boogie wizards?
Those of you whose pick is Pratt & McClain are invited to go sit at the back of the classroom until further notice.
I guess it probably depends on what makes a Rock’n’Roll song in your song book, singling it out from a fast R&B or Jump Blues number. Is it the racy innuendo (or, later, bubble gum) lyrics, raunchy sound, slap of the bass, guitar tone, uptempo beat, the ducktails, the performer, the performance, the period, the appeal to teenagers… ? One thing is for sure, there’s more Rock’n’Roll in 1930’s recordings of the Cats and the Fiddle, in early 50’s Tiny Bradshaw tunes, and in mid 1950’s Radio Four gospel songs, than in Pat Boone’s 1956 Tutti Frutti. No offense to Boone’s fans, the awkwardness of Great Googa Mooga is amusing, but there’s more rockin’ and more rollin’ in 3 seconds of Teenage Cutie, than in Pat’s entire musical career. 🙂
Having said that, one can revere a 1943 Nicholas Brothers‘ performance, and still dig the 1957 show down of a 58 year-old Fred Astaire cutting a rug. Doesn’t have to be either or, when it’s good, it’s good.
Back in Memphis, TN. If Turner himself is not entirely convinced by the prize title claim, it is commonly accepted that “Rocked 88” is an early example of a ’race record’ getting popular with a white audience. No small feat considering that the segregated American South was not exactly color-blind in 1951. In an interview, Turner explains that if his song was not really the first Rock’n’Roll tune, it kinda started that thing called Rock’n’Roll. Turner reasons that “Rocket 88” ’s score in record sales got some folks in the music biz thinking. For Sam Phillips, owner of Sun Studio, Memphis, Tennessee, where the song was recorded, sales were a confirmation that if he’d find himself “a white boy who could sing like a black man”, he’d “make a million dollars”.
A hint of jackpot came in for Phillips sometime in July 1953, when a shy 18 year-old hillbilly sporting pink slacks walked in guitar in hand, paid secretary Marion Keisker the $3.98 required to cut a record, and walked off with his one-of-a-kind plater. That double-sided piece of acetate went on to sell to a mysterious collector for a few extra dollars in 2015. About 299,996 more.
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Memphis teenagers, circa 1953
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“I don’t sound like nobody ‘Mam”, circa 1953
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Sam, Elvis, Marion, circa 1956
As a business, Sun Studio with its ‘We Record Anything, Anytime, Anywhere’ motto, managed to put on the map many magnificent artists, and has played a crucial role in defining early Rock’n’Roll and Rockabilly. The studio’s output triggered countless musical careers, and is definitely responsible for thousands of adolescents wiggling around in front of a mirror, while holding a broom stick as a mike stand.
The Rock’n’Roll beat that would later blast out of posh venues, take over charts and occupy international air waves, had its humble origins in juke joints, front porches and barn jamborees. It blended blues, boogie, country, black, brown and white. It was one way out of bleakness for many aspiring musicians. You just needed to be real good at it to make it, save for the occasional marketing ploys of desperate record labels pushing an untalented teenage-dream puppet up the charts.
If by the late 1950’s Rock’n’Roll had turned into a household name, it definitely had not said its last words. Genetics have taught us that mixed origins make for good, sustainable stock. Inbreeding, not so much. With such rich and mixed cultural upbringings, Rock’n’Roll had nothing but a bright future ahead. Today, traces of it are everywhere in pop culture.
Quite a bit has happened to music in general since 1951, and, as the comment section of YouTube suggests, we all have opinions about it. What’s gold and what’s rubbish is a mighty subjective matter. I am just grateful that, having figured out where the play button is, I can basically listen to what I want, when I want.
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Steve Gibson & the Red Caps did not wear caps (1955)
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Gene and the Blue Caps, caps off (1956)
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Cliff Gallup, Gene Vincent, Nashville 1956
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Check Bo’s B-52 Peace pick guard! (circa 1958?)
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Chet Atkins didn’t always dress like that (with Skeeter Davis, 1965)
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Nice shirt, Bill (Rock and Roll Round Up, 1956)
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Paul Burlison, Johnny Burnette, Gene Vincent, Dorsey Burnette, in dire need of a shirt (1956)
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Now THAT’S a Rock’n’Roll shirt!
The Mister Freedom® “Rocket 88” Rock’n’Roll Shirt is an homage to the early days of Rock’n’Roll, a musical inclination that might have driven my neighbors nuts for decades. From my teenage years singing with a broom stick and playing air guitar, to shuffling mp3 today, I like it. I know it’s only Rock’n’Roll, but I like it. Mmm, I should write a song about that…
Our shirt design is inspired by an unfinished amateur oil painting. After playing a bit with it, twisting it 45rpm record cover-style, we got the graphic and color combinations to convey a bit of the American musical melting pot associated with 1950’s music. Since I wanted to actually wear the shirt, it was important to me to avoid the Hard Rock Cafe souvenir look.
The graphic wraps around the body and features a four-piece combo with its three background vocalists, somewhat of a typical 50’s rockin’ outfit. The stylized characters respectfully hint at a few of the musical influences I dig. A big visual jam session if you will, Alan Freed style. Gene Vincent and the Blue Caps bopping with Steve Gibson and the Red Caps, the Jodimars digging it with Louis Jordan, Carl Perkins jiving with Wynonie Harris, Cliff Gallup riffing with Mickey Baker, Joe Clay tearing it up with Sid King, the Four Tunes harmonizing with the Dominoes, while Bo Diddley‘s jitterbugging with Hal Harris… In the corner, Chuck Berry‘s arguing with Jerry Lee over the chords. 🙂
Visitors can testify that echoes of that jam can be heard on any given day at the Mister Freedom® store, where 190GB of eclectic musical goodness shuffles relentlessly amidst the old rags.
Speaking of which, don’t forget to visit our Juke Joint, where a few of our talented friends prove that Rock’n’Roll ain’t dead!
If the body pattern is similar to the Spring 2015 “Action Packed” edition of the Rock’n’Roll shirt, the “Rocket 88” model features a few changes. The base fabric we opted for this time is a crisp, tightly woven, fine 100% cotton poplin, as opposed to a cotton-rayon blend. Cutting & sewing wise, matching the front panel graphics of the “Rocket 88” was a real task at the pattern-making and marker-cutting stage.
The “Rocket 88” comes in three colors, dark navy blue (it might look black on some monitor screens), ivory, and mint green (teal).
The shirt is still packaged in a fancy recyclable box, featuring original MF® artwork, and perfect to collect your live concert tickets.
The “Rocket 88” Rock’n’Roll shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sun Surf and Sugar Cane Co, both branches of Toyo Enterprises.
Vintage photos courtesy of Getty Images, Marv Goldberg, Josep Rulló Guàrdia via Bob Pakes, x, y, … and whoever originally shot them.
SPECS:
Inspired by 1950’s old-school Rock’n’Roll.
FABRIC:
100% fine cotton poplin, milled and printed in Japan.
Three color options:
* Dark navy blue.
* Ivory.
* Mint green (teal)
DETAILS:
* Classic 1950’s casual shirt pattern.
* “Rocket 88” edition, featuring original MF® artwork.
* ’Shark Fin’ collar.
* Corozo wood buttons, aka ivory nut.
* Double chest pockets.
* Matching front panels.
* Narrow flat-felled seams, tonal chainstitch.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The R’n’R shirt is pretty much sanforized but comes unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process.
This shirt is designed to have a 50’s casual shirt type silhouette. True to size, the shirt has quite a comfortable fit. If you are usually a Medium in mfsc shirts, you are a Medium in the R’n’R shirt.
For general instructions on how we size Mister Freedom® garments, see here. Please refer to sizing chart to figure out what works for you.
CARE:
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash on delicate. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)
RETAIL $279.95
Now available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2016
Rock-A-Upa-Upa-Baby. Featuring the “Malibu Sea Denim” and a pair of PF-Flyers (Center Hi model, made in USA)
The “Upa Upa” Shirt
Reverse print bark cloth
Skipper Spring 2016
Throughout History, public display of gyrating hips has often been frowned upon by the righteous pious elite.
In 1957, a 22 year-old Rock’n’Roll singer had to be filmed above the waist, to accommodate the Church Lady and her friends. Elvis’ third TV appearance on the Ed Sullivan Show was apparently a threat to morality and order at the time, and the cameras stayed away from questionable lower-body activity. It is not known whether Colonel Parker set it all up to boost record sales, or whether Ms Enid Strict‘s ancestors had actively participated in the banning of the Upa Upa dance some 150 years earlier in Tahiti, but this raises one question… Today, could a well-organized public twerking event suffice to inflict massive cardiac arrests in the ranks of isis?
Let’s leave this one to psywar specialists and stay on course, as we introduce the latest addition to our peaceful Skipper collection.
It is well documented that the Age of Discovery saw many a missionaries anxious to spread the Gospel in the New World. After concertation, a zealous bunch decided to go cruising in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean, destination the pristine sandy beaches of the Society Islands. On March 05, 1797, upon arrival in Tahiti at Pointe Vénus, fine men of the cloth noticed a-hunka-hunka-burning-love type of dance, and concluded that the half-naked locals could definitely use some retenue in the entertainment department. The Upa Upa dance was 86’d, and the depraved suggestive moves that had originally lured whalers and mutineers were relegated to the rank of savage activities, unfit for civilized people. The pernicious concept of Sin, a powerful control tool introduced by early missionaries, did wonders with the islanders’ joie de vivre and frivolous traditions. Interestingly, the English word taboo is borrowed from the Tongan word tabū (or tapū), meaning sacred/forbiden…
With a bit of convincing, Mother Hubbard dresses eventually replaced tapa cloth skirts, and most of the estimated 40,000 heathen souls populating Tahiti at the time European invaders first landed, were saved. These desperate descendants of Taiwanese migrants had been trapped in a sun-drenched and turquoise-lagooned purgatory for generations, and those who had not succumbed to eighteenth century VD imported by colonizers could finally enjoy the bliss of salvation. Alleluia and Maururu.
If Elvis ultimately generated millions of dollars from the savant swiveling of his pelvis, the original Upa Upa dance has somewhat fallen into oblivion. Still, its modern legacy lives in the ‘ote’a, and other Heiva activities connecting Polynesians with their original ancestors’ culture.
For the anthropology-inclined, glimpses of Upa Upa influences can also be spotted on the occasional dance instruction video clips we share, concerned as we are in perpetuating the Art of both body expression and living-room rug-cutting.
Disclaimer: I trust that the acute reader accustomed to these posts, who has just wasted five minutes of an otherwise fine day reading the above, will assume that it is not my intent to make light of anyone’s religious inclination, nor to promote atheism or a specific faith. To me, everyone’s wild guess on what to spiritually believe in is respectable, but, at times, some might benefit from others’ conviction staying an altruistic yet private and intimate personal opinion.
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Cook Islands ladies wearing Mother Hubbard dresses, 1910 (Photo George Crummer, courtesy Te Papa, Museum of New Zeland)
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Another mellow evening at the Bar Lea, 1959
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Gabilou taking a break from the Barefoot Boys
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A fan making a suggestion during an EP concert, Philadelphia 1957 (Courtesy Getty Images?)
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Debra Paget showing her Upa Upa moves. (Milton Berle Show, 1956) Photo Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images
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Upa Upa is here to stay
Now, without any further ado, our chemise du jour, the Mister Freedom® Upa Upa shirt!
The vibe of this garment is clearly more related to a 1969 steamy New-Year’s eve at the Bar Léa in Papeete, than to a traditional 1788 wedding under Pōmare I. So, just like our Bora Bora shirt or MF Paréo, the Upa Upa Shirt won’t necessarily work for reenacting ‘Mutiny on the Bounty’, but will make you ridiculously handsome, successful in business and happy in love.
The general pattern is inspired by 1960’s-70’s lounge attire with a touch of dune buggy escapade. The Upa Upa shirt features five pockets with double button closure flaps, in a (surf) safari jacket detail with a definite sixties accent. Not that anyone does anymore, but this is a non tuck-in shirt.
The most striking part of our Upa Upa shirt however is the unconventional use of the printed fabric. Not a ground-breaking event in itself, but reverse prints are a first in our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane decade-long collaboration.
A popular island fashion in the mid 1960’s, reverse-print fabrics gradually became the cloth of choice for both Kamaʻāina and long-established haole folks. It appears that contemporary islanders have a more subtle approach to sporting printed motifs than continental visitors have. Preferring their outfits a bit toned-down, they seem to leave the louder prints to sunburned tourists. Rumor has it that reverse prints were a way to emulate the faded shirts worn by legit surfers. If Reyn Spooner® allegedly pioneered the technique, surf-related brands such as Ocean Pacific® or Lightning Bolt® widely used the reverse print gimmick on their gear in the 1970’s and early 1980’s.
In the Hawaiian islands today, reverse prints are considered proper business attire, a thought that suddenly makes corporate board meetings almost sound appealing.
The base fabric we chose for our Upa Upa Shirt is a handsome slubby bark cloth-type woven textile, with more slub than our Saigon Cowboy “Tahiti” Shirt, but from a similar weave family. Here is a quote about that fabric, dug out from our original post, which you might want to double-check the historical accuracy of, before engaging on reddit:
“The base textile (…) is reminiscent, in texture, of those vintage kitschy 1960’s/70’s cotton Hawaiian shirts sometimes referred to as ‘bark cloth’. In the 1940’s/50’s, a thick and heavy version of that dobby weave cotton cloth had become a standard feature in most American households, in the form of printed curtains and upholstery fabric.
All those vintage iterations were modern renditions of the ancient Hawaiian kapa (or tapa in Tahitian, meaning ‘the beaten thing’), the natural wood pulp bark cloth of early traditional Polynesian attire that so impressed Captain James Cook back in 1769. “This stuff is awesome! Where to cop?” he reportedly said on his final voyage to the Pacific Islands, before being clubbed on the beach.”
Anyhow, the chest horizontal band graphic of our Upa Upa Shirt is typical of Tahitian vibe shirts and T-shirts popular in the beach communities in the mid sixties, swinging their hips to the ocean swell during the day, and to Dick Dale at night. Many ads in vintage issues of Surfer Magazine corroborate. This traditional Polynesian Art-inspired graphic we used is similar to that on the MF® Paréo, a mighty garment that has quickly taken over beaches around the World!
We know because social media don’t lie.
(Instagram action shots courtesy of our friends Markues, and Jay & Amber. Thanks for being good sports and for showing us how it’s done on location! Please note that this is by no means an endorsement on their part of the above ramblings.)
So, if you ran out of fishing wire after busting all your ukulélé strings, spin a Barefoot Boys record (this one), slap on three coats of monoï, tie-up your paréo, slip on the Upa Upa… Time to show the world your best tamouré moves.
And once your partner has hopelessly implored you not to share a clip of that on Instagram, do tag us (#MisterFreedom) for a chance to win a gallon of warm yak milk, or a limited edition printed “Skipper” bandana.
The Upa Upa Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Vintage photography references courtesy of Museum of New Zealand, x, and the interwebs.
SPECS:
Inspired by traditional Tahitian culture, 1960’s-70’s Polynesian attire, lounge wear for the marina playboy, and vintage beachcomber accoutrement.
FABRIC:
100% cotton slubby weave bark cloth-type textile, displaying the reverse side of the print due to partial bleed-through of the ink, for a subtle motif effect. Woven and printed in Japan.
Two attractive color options:
A) Upa Upa Aqua: Aqua blue base fabric with coral pink printed chest band graphic.
B) Upa Upa Lava: Black base fabric with aqua blue chest band printed graphic.
DETAILS:
* 1960’s surf safari type shirt pattern.
* Five-pocket style: Four large patch pockets with flaps with extra small arm pocket.
* Sixties-style double button flap closure.
* Genuine coconut shell buttons.
* Side slits.
* 100% cotton thread.
* Narrow caballo chainstitch construction.
* Made and printed in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® Upa Upa Shirt comes raw/unrinsed.
We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The shirt in both options will shrink to tagged size. The Mister Freedom® Upa Upa Shirt is true-to-size. I opted for a medium, my usual size in mfsc shirting.
For general instructions on how we size Mister Freedom® garments, see here. Please refer to sizing chart to figure out what works for you, depending on your own body requirements and silhouette preferences.
The fit pix are featuring the MF® Malibu Sea Denim, and a pair of PF-Flyers (Center Hi model, made in USA).
CARE:
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails, like after a particularly competitive beach twerking contest.
Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)
RETAIL $259.95
Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above, such as “Should I wash the shirt inside out?” or “Where to cop that sea shell thingy?”…
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2016
Vintage Rodeo poster from www.lemagasin.eu
The “Appaloosa shirt”, double indigo cotton selvedge twill
Sportsman Spring 2016
We are adding a new sensation to our Appaloosa family this Spring. Originally released in several traditional blue denim options, a batch was later issued in a stripe denim twill.
While fabric hunting sometime last year, we came across a handsome indigo-dyed twill we couldn’t resist. A double indigo (indigo warp and indigo weft), with white selvedge ID, 8 oz, milled in Japan, perfect for an iteration of the Appaloosa. We often refer to this kind of twill as ‘midnight’, but that’s just us with an inclination for fancy verbiage.
The Appaloosa shirt’s design stays the same. It combines several details of vintage western and work shirts, diverting a bit from the traditional cowboy cut denim western yoke numbers. As introduced a few years back with the Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts, our Appaloosa features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts. Our front yoke is of a vintage ‘Roebuck’ type rather than the usual western arcuate style. The pocket flaps are locked in the yoke. The top collar button is the metal debossed mfsc type we often use for our Sportsman line.
You’ll notice we went full Zorro on this 2016 edition, opting for a subdued look. The metal snaps are painted black and the stitching is tonal, ie. dark navy.
The Sportsman ‘Appaloosa Shirt’ is designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
(Vintage Rodeo poster from our friend Damien at www.lemagasin.eu)
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage workwear and western shirting.
FABRIC:
Dark indigo warp x indigo weft twill, 100% cotton, white selvedge ID, 8 Oz., milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Slim ‘western shirt’ type silhouette and fit.
* Painted metal DOT snaps. The black paint will chip with age.
* Vintage ‘Roebuck’ type front yoke
* Western style back yoke.
* Two chest pockets, snap flaps, locked into yoke construction.
* Double snap cuffs.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, high stitch count.
* Double chainstitch construction with green color thread “Sportsman” inside signature.
* Selvedge side gusset, chainstitch run offs.
* Original mfsc “The Sportsman” woven rayon label.
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
This shirt comes RAW/Un-washed and will shrink to tagged size. We recommend an original 20-30mn cold soak, machine spin dry then line dry.
I usually wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I wear a comfortable MEDIUM in this double indigo twill Appaloosa release.
Please note that the initial cold soak of the Appaloosa shirt I am breaking in resulted in very minimal shrinkage. I expect more shrinkage with subsequent washing and am OK with the extra slack seen on the fit picture for now.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements to see what works for you. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
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CARE:
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling from the washing cycles.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
WARNING: As with most dark indigo-dyed garments, color croaking is to be expected. Indigo rubs on light color undergarments will wash off over time, but beware of sofas and car seats as they might be trickier to clean up.
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)
RETAIL $279.95
Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2016
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