Brigitte Bardot & Alain Delon wearing a winner (on Eric Tabarly’s boat, Saint-Tropez, 1968) Photo Courtesy of Getty Images)
“Aventure Beach Trunks”, made in USA. Sportsman Summer 2015
A proper introduction to our “Aventure Beach Trunks” will require the assistance of the action-packed movie provider of your choice. Put a little umbrella in your drink, and indulge in “L’Aventure c’est l’Aventure” (Claude Lelouch, 1972).
Spoiler alert, you might not learn much about jungle guerrilla warfare, but the art of working the beach will no longer hold secrets for you.
Aldo, Lino, Charlot, Jacquo… pick yourself a winner.
The “Aventure Beach Trunks” borrow the general pattern of our classic Sportsman Board Shorts, the original indigo version or “Saigon Cowboy” tiger stripe model, and feature Velcro closure, side pocket, cord waist adjustment… Please note that the tiger stripe option of the “Aventure Beach Trunk” is not made from Buzz Rickson’s gold tiger stripes, but from NOS selvedge camo fabric.
We have carefully selected vintage selvedge cotton fabric from our vault for this project. These NOS sixties/seventies novelty print textiles have been purchased over the course of many years, some collected as far back as during MF® early trials under the name Cricri Le Matelot in the early 2000’s.
Each pair had to be cut individually, a time-consuming requisite when using all different width of fabrics that cannot be stacked under one cutting marker. With very limited yardage of these fabrics, each design only yielded a few waist sizes. When possible, the selvedge was used on the inner part of the waistband.
For your beachcombing pleasure, we have made dozens of assorted eye-pleasing combinations, emulating what an old 1970’s Californian beach shack on the Venice Boardwalk might have offered during its hippy days. Due to variations in vintage fabric weight and texture, some options might be better suited for strolling on hot sand than coming out of chilly water. For the sake of your friends, and your reputation, we recommend testing at home.
Rumor has it that there is an embarrassing video on the interwebs highlighting the unforgiving fit of our beach trunks… but I wouldn’t know anything about that.
The classy “Aventure Beach Trunks” are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®. Limited edition.
SPECS:
FABRICS:
Made from assorted NOS (New Old Stock) vintage novelty print cotton fabrics, canvas or twill. Designs, weight and texture vary.
DETAILS: * Late 60’s to 1970’s style
* Cord/eyelet waist closure system.
* Velcro® fly closure.
* Selvedge waistband when feasible.
* Side pocket with Velcro® closure flap.
* Rear concealed pocket.
* Poly-cotton contrast stitching.
* Few of a kind, limited edition.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
All of the vintage fabrics were pre-washed prior to the cut/sew process, to even out the shrinkage across the board. Each pair of finished trunks was subsequently cold-rinsed and tumble-dried again. With very slight variations, all models tagged with the same size will fit the same, some fabrics featuring more mechanical stretch than others. Each pair was size stamped after the rinse/dry process, so if your waist actually measures 32”, you would wear a tagged 32.
The eyelet waist closure system allows for about ½ inch adjustment.
CHART
CARE:
Low maintenance, machine wash when needed, cold and delicate cycle.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com. The full selection of options can be seen in our Los Angeles ol’ pile o’ rags, aka the brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Although stripes have been associated through the ages with outcasts, demons, deprivation of personal freedom and other fun stuff, it is argued that the contemporary popularity of that specific geometrical pattern is anchored in the New World of the late 1770’s… During the American Revolution, stripes became a reference to the thirteen red and white borders of the Patriots’ flag. For the revolutionaries of the original thirteen colonies, sporting and displaying striped patterns symbolized an allegiance to Independence from the Old World, the rejection of Britain’s authority. The stripes of Liberty versus the Crown of England…
The French, never missing an opportunity to aggravate the Brits, militarily supported and backed the rebellion of the colonies, recognizing the United States of America as a new independent nation in 1778. Some ten years later, France got busy with its own Revolution. In 1789, a ragtag group called the Sans-Culottes made the bulk of the French revolutionaries troops fighting the French monarchic regime. Contrasting with the fancy knee-length breeches aristocrats wore (culottes), their rugged outfits often featured a mixture of unfashionable stripes.
Today, on either side of the Atlantic, no celebration of the French or American Revolution would be complete without red, white or blue stripes.
The origin of the association of stripes with seafaring apparel, from the French tricot rayé to the Russian telnyashka, is also speculated about, but seems to have roots in the middle of the XVII Century as period paintings of naval battles tend to suggest. The keen eye will spot stripes on deck, swashbuckling away.
Before the familiar blue and white combination known today, the earlier seamen jerseys appear to have featured red and white stripes. Private purchase at the time, these striped undershirts were reserved for the lower echelon of naval hierarchy, the hard-working swabbies and quartermasters, in contrast with the dashing uniforms of the officers.
This unlikely choice of work-wear for sailors might have been a pure practical choice to heighten the visibility of men at sea, whether in the rigging, on deck, or fallen overboard, a sort of safety orange or emergency yellow of the 1600’s. Required submission to the ship’s Captain and the Four Winds, rationing, frequent punishments and strictly enforced discipline made for the harsh life of deckhands, as enviable and glamorous as that of convicts in galleys. Just ask around Pitcairn…
In 1858, the Marine Nationale (the French Navy, aka La Royale) officially adopts the standard Tricot Rayé for its seamen as an under garment. The now-regulated shirt features from 20 to 21 indigo blue knitted stripes, and will only be visible under the V-neck of the vareuse (jumper). An improbable legend has it that the number of stripes symbolizes specific victories of the Napoleonic Wars (1803–1815).
The French word tricot (pronounce tree-koh) refers to the knitting process of the jersey, as the stripes are not printed but knitted. In the early days, French factories that manufactured hosiery (bonneteries) also supplied the striped jersey fabric uniform shirts were made of. Some argue that technical limitations inherent to stocking manufacturing eventually impacted the garments, as shirts looked striped and not solid. Due to variations in shades of dyed or natural yarn batches, mechanically knitted jerseys were easier to keep consistent in stripe patterns than solid color. This seems like a stretch.
It is also said that striped patterns, a common feature in the world of vintage undergarments, served the purpose of breaking the unsightly silhouette of the human body. Centuries later, in liberating retaliation from this prudish repression, Man went on to invent the striped Bikini…
If most of what is known about stripes is pure extrapolation and the truth lost to history, what is well-documented is that nautical symbols have long safely made it to shore. Unlike their Army counterparts, French Navy conscripts got to keep their entire sea bag after the mandatory military service, taking home their uniform including two marinières. Used or vintage ones were dime a dozen in Parisian flea markets until the early 1990’s, easily filtering in the civvy world.
Today, the famous white and blue stripes are mostly associated with France, summertime, fun-in-the-sun, sea-side resorts, yacht clubs, freshwater sailing, fishing, bouillabaisse, beach umbrellas… and fierce menswear fashion courtesy of JPG in 1978.
Stripes… From dweller of the High Seas status to international catwalk apparel, from the backs of Medieval felons to Parisian Apaches gigolos, from Marsouins to bobos, from Saint Malo to Saint Tropez, striped shirts have seen it all.
Coco, Picasso, Bardot, Brando, borders a go-go… Hissez haut, Santiano!
Houpette Marine Francaise
French battleship Jauréguiberry laundry day (1913)
Jauréguiberry (1913)
Alcatraz (1920)
Cargese Corsica (1935)
STAC Stage Commando marins (1956)
Brando (1956)
Brando Barbara Roberts
Photo Larry Barbier Jr (1954)
Brando & Josiane Beranger in Bandol (1954)
Brando rehearsing for Guys & Dolls (1955)
Bardot Edward Quinn (1956)
Bardot by Loomis Dean (1958) LIFE
Audrey Hepburn (1961)
Russian Navy telnyashka Photo Sergey Petrukhin (1968)
If it moves, salute it. If it doesn’t, paint it.
Adding to that landlubber mixture, here is Mister Freedom®’s iteration of the TRICOT MARIN, for Spring 2015.
We opted for 18 stripes for a simple reason: E = mc^2 x u(x_1, 3.14 ,x_n)- f(x) = ex-15%, where u=u(x)+6.67*10-11Nm2kg-2 .
According to Antonio, this adds up to 18, quod erat demonstrandum.
Our 18 stripes form a sort of large chest band, horizontally framed by solid parts on the shoulders and bottom. This pattern is a reference to authentic French Marine Nationale jerseys, rather than the fully striped shirts without solid parts often associated with fishermen or ocean rescue. Some of the traditional Armor-Lux or Saint James shirts have that Bretagne nautical vibe. The brand Orcival supplied jerseys to the French Navy for many years.
A solid section is also featured on the sleeves on the MF® tricot marin. Depending on the size of the shirt, the visible solid sections will fluctuate in width, the XXL having a larger solid top section that the XS…
We are using a col bateau (boat neck), a collar pattern specified in the original French regulation code of 1858, insisting with our manufacturer for the curve of the collar stitching, a technical challenge for the skilled machine operator.
The side slits and longer rear panel are also references to original tail of the French Navy tricot rayé. Our 1/4 sleeves, shorter than the government issued shirts are a nod to the common practice of chopping up the sleeves of your jersey for comfort in tropical deployments.
Besides the specific shade of blue and white yarns we selected for our tricot (inspired by a vintage 1910’s real indigo striped jersey from our archives), we also opted for a second color combination, involving a particular red. Not an ‘authentic’ stripe pattern, but legit-looking enough to be part of our Sportsman catalog. This ‘Raschel‘ type jersey knit, a batch specifically woven for us in Japan in 2015, turned out to be the most expensive fabric we’ve had milled to date…
Our “Tricot Marin” is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in the USA from fabric milled in Japan.
FABRIC:
100% cotton jersey knit, woven stripe pattern, milled in Japan.
Two color combination options, white/blue and red/blue.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by original Marine Nationale striped jerseys and vintage nautical knit shirts.
* Woven stripe chest band, 18 stripes.
* Boat neck.
* 1/4 sleeves.
* Side slits.
* Rear panel tail.
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT: Both color options come unwashed and will shrink to the same size after an initial rinse/dry cycle. The jersey has some minimal mechanical stretch in width, slightly more in length when pulled.
According to your fit preference these can be worn fitted or loose. Although usually a Medium in MF® shirts, I opted to size down and wear a small in the MF® tricot marin, same as the Stanley and Skivvy.
Refer to chart for approximate rinsed/tumbler dry measurements.
CARE:
Low-maintenance, just throw your tricot marin in the washer/dryer, cold or hot water, delicate cycle. No bleach.
SIZES: x-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large
The “Stanley” T-Shirt, made in USA
Sportsman Spring 2015
The year was 1947. Manhattan was bustling, everyone had somewhere to go. A gang of weary street workers was taking a break from pouring asphalt on 8th Ave. Muggy air, sticky undershirts two sizes too small, dirty buckle-back dungarees, studded reflector belts, floppy work caps… There it was. Lucinda Ballard had her Stanley Kowalsky. She would play around with undershirts and work pants to dress-up her volatile ‘survivor of the Stone Age‘ roughneck character in Streetcar.
That winter, Broadway was about to get a treat. An unknown 23 year-old mannish kid from Nebraska would mumble his way on stage for the next two years, mesmerizing the audience of the Ethel Barrymore Theater. Some felt sorry for the kid at first, assuming performance anxiety kept him from acting, like normal actors in those days did. Kowalski was not acting, not declaiming, the kid was too realistic… Some thought a stagehand had inadvertently walked on stage and started chatting away with the cast. But that was Marlon Brando doing his thing, setting new rules and raising the bar for future generations of actors.
After the tremendous Broadway success, the play was adapted to film by Warner Bros in 1951, and shot in 36 working days. The entire original cast hit the silver screen. “Desire” was Brando’s ride to stardom.
Immortalized by Hollywood, the movie’s wardrobe won Ms. Ballard a nomination for the ’51 Academy Awards for “Best Costume Design”, and Stanley Kowalsky a permanent medal in the “Wet T-Shirt Contest” category, along with an eternal gratitude from the BVDs sales dept.
Photo Carl Van Vechten (1947)
Streetcar wardrobe test (1950)
Photo John Engstead (1951)
With Kim Hunter and Nick Dennis (1951)
Stanley Kowalsky & Blanche Dubois
And that is the brief story behind the name of our next entry in the Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog this Spring 2015. Meet “Stanley”, Skivvy‘s little brother.
Both Skivvy and Stanley bodies share the same T-shape design, construction and pattern specs, originally inspired by a vintage 1940’s USMC sage green undershirt, as outline when we originally released the Skivvy T-Shirt in 2013. We are still using tubular knit, flatlock seams, roping collar and fitfies-style 1/4 sleeves. And still making it in the USA.
For the Stanley T-Shirt however, I wanted a lighter gauge fabric. Our inspiration this time was more ‘old souvenir shop’ or vintage ‘PX merchandise’ than Mil-Specs. We were lucky to score a very special slubby and light-weight 100% cotton jersey, milled in the USA. Those partial to modern, oversized, heavy-weight T-Shirts might consider our Stanley fabric a bit ‘cheap’ and thin… But that’s exactly what we wanted, there’s plenty of the Beefy-T kind around.
Those familiar with vintage clothing, will notice that this specific fabric is quite reminiscent of 1960’s-70’s tourist T’s and rock T’s (often imports from Pakistan at that time). For the collector, that family of vintage T’s stands out for its loosely knitted stretchy jersey, heavy twist and distortion of the fabric, and dreadful shrinkage that often turned tourists shirts into unwearable cropped tops after the first hot wash.
We decided to get smart and conducted extensive shrink tests to make our Stanley T-Shirt actually fit after laundry. The Stanley fits pretty much like our Skivvy, although featuring much more mechanical stretch due to the looser weave. The Stanley all-cotton jersey has a ‘memory’ and reverts to its intended fit after stretch. As was the case with the Skivvy however, it is normal for a T-Shirt to feel snugger when first slipped on in the morning than at the end of the day.
To spice things up for Spring 2015, along with the white version, we have carefully selected specific color options, classic colors inspired by vintage shirts from the MF® archives.
* Black
* Gold (Yellow)
* Jungle Green (Olive)
* Red
* Royal Blue
* Heather Grey (Note that this option is not slubby jersey, but similar to the Skivvy cotton jersey)
Contrary to the dictate of the garment distressing industry, we will “let the wearers put in the years.”
These are ‘straight up’ colors, in the sense that we did not do a ‘vintage wash’ to age our Stanley T-Shirts artificially. Indeed, we have noticed that simply wearing the clothes always gets you to that ‘vintage look’, naturally and without chemicals. Due to the specific dyeing process we opted for, our colors are guaranteed to fade to attractive hues with repeat wash/wear cycles and sun exposure.
The Stanley T-Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% cotton light-weight slubby tubular jersey knit, milled in the USA. This fabric twists and torques. This natural yarn distortion is expected and not a default.
COLORS: * White * Black
* Gold (Yellow)
* Jungle Green (Olive)
* Red
* Royal Blue
* Heather Grey
DETAILS:
* Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by vintage 1940′s-50′s cotton T-shaped undershirts.
* Old school 1/4 sleeve length.
* Tubular knit (no side seams)
* Cover stitch self-fabric neckband.
* Normal mechanical stretch and fabric memory.
* Combination of flatlock and cover stitch construction, inspired by 1940′s USMC Government issued undershirts.
* 100% cotton thread, for natural roping on seams.
* Original MF® “The Sportsman” black woven rayon label on neck band.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The white options comes unwashed and will shrink to the desired tagged size after an initial wash/dry cycle. All color options have already shrunk to the desired size.
The Stanley fits like the Skivvy does, but due to the nature of its stretchy jersey, the Stanley might feel looser at first.
I wear Medium (38) on most MFSC garments, but sized down to a Small for both MF® Stanley and Skivvy, just personal taste. According to your built and silhouette preference, get your normal size or size down for a slimmer/shorter old school fit.
Refer to sizing chart below for washed/machine dried approximate measurements (measured flat, without pulling/stretching):
CARE:
Low-maintenance as a T-Shirt should be, just throw your Stanley in the washer/dryer, cold or hot water, delicate cycle. No bleach. Keep colors separate to avoid potential color transfer when doing laundry.
SIZES:
Due to the special nature of this tubular jersey, sizing is limited. (We are working on adding X-Large in the near future.) Small Medium Large
RETAIL:
White Stanley: $69.95
Color Stanley: $69.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above. We will soon be offering original MF® graphics silkscreened on the Stanley T-Shirts…
Thank you for your support.