Mister Freedom® Okinawa Topsiders, sugarcane fiber denim
‘Sea Hunt‘ mfsc Spring 2014
The idea was brought to the drafting table by one member of the Team, a retired Navy snipe. The beat-up denim work pants that had accompanied him in his early years at sea turned into the basic pattern of the mfsc “Topsiders”…
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Denim often goes in pair with imagery of US Navy ships at sea during WW2.
Anchored in popular culture by Hollywood, immortalized in such great movies as “The Sand Pebbles“, the below-and-above-deck sailor getups meant denim and chambray. Never to be worn off-base or off-ship, work outfits of enlisted personnel consisted of denim dungarees matched with a choice of chambray shirt, white skivvy or non-regulation sunburned skin. The expertly shaped “Dixie Cup” topped that familiar swabbie silhouette.
Spare sets of work clothes were often privately purchased, according to one’s chores. As a result, period photos often display an eclectic mix of regulation and non-regulation dungarees, including seafarer-type flares in the 1930’s… Same drill with chambray shirts, as non regulation chin straps and pocket flaps are sometimes spotted on early shots.
For further reading on WW2 USN dungarees head over to this RIVETED blog post by artist Patrick Segui.
(All below photos from MF® private photo archives, gathered from several photo albums.)
Although personnel in the Army was also issued sets of denim work clothes (such as M1937 shirt and trousers, M1940 chore jacket), these didn’t ‘make the cut’, as they were replaced by Olive Drab Herringbone Twill field uniforms, in 1941. This assured OD HBT its place in the limelight, a center stage spot in the fabrics of heroes.
For both 1940’s US Marines and Army personnel, HBT became the field fabric, while blue denim stuck to sailors of the US Navy.
Photos below are US Army pre-HBT days, 1937~39 according to album personal notes.
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An original pair of vintage 1940’s wrap-leg US Navy issued dungarees has somewhat of an ‘awkward’ fit: very snug waist, no hips, uncommonly high-rise and very wide straight leg. I have to admit that I quite like that silhouette on old photos, albeit challenging by today’s standards for some.
However heavily inspired by an original pair of USN wrap-leg dungarees, our “Okinawa Topsiders” feature an adapted cut. Yes, we decided to make it even more ill-fitting than an original. Mission accomplished. They now have a mid-rise, similar to the rise of our Californian blue jeans. Please note that this lower rise might not work for some who are partial to traditional authentic high-waisted sailor trousers…
We also added the old cinch-back strap for good measure.
Because of the one piece wrap leg construction, it would appear that no selvedge would be showing? Have no fear, it is inconspicuously displayed twice! First in the waist band and then in the crotch gusset. Yes Sir, and here is why:
We opted for one of our long-time favorite denim fabric, the “Okinawa” indigo selvedge left-hand twill SC401 denim, a blend of 50% cotton and 50% sugar cane fibers patented by Sugar Cane Co. The width of this shuttle-loom-milled textile is about 29 inches. This is not wide enough for an entire wrapped leg. Therefore, an extra piece of denim fabric had to be spliced in order to ‘finish’ the leg. This is where the selvedge appears, concealed at the crotch.
Look Ma… no red lines!
Like the vintage original from our archives, our “Topsiders” feature four patch pockets, the front ones judiciously positioned to discourage Parisian metro pickpockets. We did managed to make them a bit more accessible than the wrap pockets on our original “7161 Utility Trousers” from 2007, so no need to take your pants off to retrieve loose change. The back pockets are positioned low and are quite deep.
To give our Topsiders a flair of USN undress whites, we chose off-white corozo (aka vegetable ivory) buttons, top and fly.
Labeling:
Our “Sea Hunt” label this season is a nod to vintage European military/utilitarian type labels, with more space left out to fill with custom marking than the usual boasting about ‘Best this/Greatest that’. This ties in with the concept behind this 2014 Collection, where each garment was issued for a specific mission. One would log-in date/location/name and other relevant info with a marking device directly on the white label…
The “Okinawa Topsiders” are made in Japan as a collaboration between Mister Freedom® and Sugarcane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC: “Okinawa” SC401, unsanforized 10 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, 50% cotton 50% sugar cane fibers, solid white Selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees.
* Roomy straight leg.
* Wrap-leg construction, no side seams.
* Button fly, white corozo (vegetable ivory nut) top and fly buttons.
* Selvedge waistband.
* Selvedge ‘crotch gusset’.
* Two functioning rounded bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded bottom rear back pockets.
* Adjustable back cinch strap.
* Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts
* Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam.
* 100% cotton black stitching.
* Customizable mfsc white woven label.
SIZING/WASHING:
The Topsiders come RAW (unwashed) and will pretty much shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an original cold soak of about 20mn, machine spin dry or drip dry, line dry. We don’t recommend heat dryers.
Further washing should be limited to when required by common sense, as in when your jeans are dirty, which obviously greatly fluctuates according to one’s occupation.
It is a good idea to wash denim inside-out when comes bath time, to avoid marbling.
The cut of the Topsiders is pretty generous in the leg and in the waist. It is the nature of the Okinawa denim to shrink and stretch back and forth with each rinse/dry/wear cycle. This eventually settles, but two pairs of waist-32 might end up fitting differently according to the wearer’s build and activities.
The 1½ inch fold of the bottom hem uses a simple single-needle machine stitch. Across the board, the length shrinks to an approximate 34 inches.
I wear a comfortable waist 32 in the Topsiders, with room for the entire family.
I do not recommend sizing down for a slimmer silhouette, as this would result in making the rise appear slightly too low, in my opinion.
Please refer to sizing chart for raw and rinsed measurements. Please note that our rinsed measurements (cold soak/line dry) show minimal shrinkage. Using hot water/power dryer (both NOT recommended) will result in more shrinkage.
Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Tagged Sizes
W28 × L36
W30 × L36
W32 × L36
W34 × L36
W36 × L36
W38 × L36
Retail $439.95
Available soon from www.misterfreedom.com
Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support
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MF® Ranch Blouse Pique ©2014
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Ranch Blouse & Speedways: Piqué Bedford Cord
“The Sportsman” mfsc Spring 2014
Piqué fabrics are woven on dobby looms giving the finished textile its small geometrical repeat pattern designs.
The French word piqué refers to needle work, as in quilting.
Yes, yes. So it iz be-lieved
One of my favorite of the piqué family as always been the “Bedford Cord”, thought to have originated in New Bedford, Massachusetts, during the golden age of its textile industry, counting some 70 mills around 1920. 18 are still operating today.
Bedford cord fabric is characterized by vertical woven ridges on the face, and tiny ‘beehive’ pattern on the reverse.
In the late 1950’s off-white relaxed fit slacks made their way to the Ivy League scene, often featuring cinch-back or side straps.
By the mid-1960’s, slim light colored jeans had become quite popular with young adults, as often displayed in the ranks of 18 to 24 year-old recruits getting schooled in the Art of War before heading out to Vietnam.
On campuses, ‘Wheat jeans’ on the slim side had then out-fashioned the slightly darker and wider cut khaki chinos in the heart of many preps.
In Hollywood, the usual suspects seem to have adopted the ‘wheat jeans’ style early on, whether in five-pocket cuts, twills, cords or sateen, ‘Sta-Prest’ styles or chino patterns…
Our man James ‘Flint’ Coburn swore by them, on and off screen it seems. McQueen favored a clean ‘Sansabelt’ type, with concealed snap waist tab, part of the inspiration behind our Speedways jeans.
Most brands went full throttle on the craze, suggesting the matching jacket and pants, as in period HD Lee or Levi’s ads.
After a fierce meetings at Mister Freedom®, we unanimously decided the matching wheat jacket/pants thing was not necessarily a good idea this year either.
So we immediately added the Ranch Blouse and Speedways piqué set to the Sportsman catalog for Spring 2014.
As introduced with our Uncle Sam issue, the piqué Ranch Blouse features the embossed MF® brass buttons, replacing our previous ‘silver’ type.
The modified version of our original 2011 Speedway Jeans and ‘wheat’ Ranch Blouse come in a new Bedford cord fabric. The color we selected for this 10 Oz. Sportsman Edition piqué is slightly warmer (slightly more beige) than our original Speedway piqué ( slightly more grey). They still both appear off-white, referred to as ‘wheat’ by 1960’s marketing departments.
On Style: The boldest will have no fear in the challenging statement of the mighty Leisure Suit when worn as a set, but we do suggest self-control with the wheat-on-wheat sandwich. In most situations, mixing might be a better option. Although wheat jeans are easier to incorporate in one’s wardrobe than is commonly thought, they remain an ‘acquired taste’, so don’t force yourself if you don’t feel it.
We never recommend buying garments you won’t wear, nor do we guarantee success around the pool with purchase.
Wheat jeans, Derek Flint approved since 1966. Results may vary.
The Ranch Blouse and Sportsman Speedways are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
RANCH BLOUSE, Piqué Bedford Cord Edition
PATTERN: An original mfsc pattern, influenced by early denim ‘trucker’ type jackets.
FABRIC: 10 Oz. off-white Piqué Bedford Cord, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Under collar and under pocket flap lining: New Old Stock woven plaid fabric, blue/red check, 100% cotton.
DETAILS:
* Modified collar pattern.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Original MF® lower chest pocketing, tonal “M” stitching.
* Pleated front with MF® original ‘dart’ stitching.
* NOS woven plaid collar/pocket flap facing.
* Brass cast MF® branded rivet buttons.
* Buckle back, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer back.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Printed cotton label (from our Buckaroos.)
* Made in USA
SIZING/WASHING:
Although only offered un-washed the piqué fabric takes its full beauty after the first rinse/dry cycle. It gains in texture, with a nice crispy vintage feel. We recommend an original gentle cycle in cold water, and machine tumble dry. If the ensuing wrinkles bother you don’t let them.
WARNING: Some slight ‘crocking’ (color transfer) might happen during the first few washes, from the leather washers of the copper rivets, making somewhat of a ‘rust’ stain on the off-white piqué fabric. This is not permanent and will fade after further washing/drying cycles. DO NOT BOIL, as in the simple equation: (leather) + (boiling water) = soup.
For reasons familiar only to those well versed in crystal ball reading, our piqué Ranch Blouse fits a bit larger than the previous Lot.64 Ranch Blouse. JD and I went for a tight 36 in the piqué but wear a 38 in the denim Lot.64 version.
If you are in between sizes we recommend sizing down. If you do not like the shorter/cropped look of old trucker denim jackets however, staying with the same size will work as well.
Please refer to chart below for measurements.
Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Sizes
34 X-small
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
Retail $359.95
SPORTSMAN SPEEDWAY, Piqué Bedford Cord
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slimmer silhouette (not skinny though)
FABRIC: 10 Oz. off-white Piqué Bedford Cord, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Extended tab waist band, double concealed snaps.
* No belt loops.
* Functional cinch back strap to adjust waist (up to 2 inches adjustment.)
* Lapseam chainstitch leg construction, both outside and inside seams.
* New Old Stock pocket bags: 100% cotton stripe blue/white twill.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* “M” stitched back pockets.
* Inside waistband Sportsman woven label.
* Selvedge tape red/white/blue tab on waistband.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Made in USA.
SIZING & SHRINKAGE:
Although only offered un-washed the piqué fabric takes its full beauty after the first rinse/dry cycle. It gains in texture, with a nice crispy vintage feel. We recommend an original gentle cycle in cold water, and line dry for a crispy vintage feel.
WARNING: Please note that some light crocking (bluish color transfer) will occur during the first wash cycles, due to the blue color of the striped pocket bags NOS fabric. This will fade with further washes and is not permanent. Using an electric/gas dryer instead of line-dry will increase the crocking slightly.
Minimal waist shrinkage with this pique fabric, shrinks mostly in length (about one inch)
I am a W32 in the Californian Lot.64 Blue Jeans and wear a Waist 32 in the Speedway, a bit cinched in the back to accommodate my girly figure. Both fits are somewhat similar.
The bottom hems are not chain-stitched, making shortening the jeans an easy alteration with a single needle machine. Measuring it right to your liking being the most challenging task.
My personal preference tends towards a slight ‘high water’/flood look.
Please refer to chart below for measurements.
Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Tagged Sizes
W28 × L33
W29 x L33
W30 × L33
W31 × L33
W32 × L33
W33 x L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L33
W38 × L33
Retail $279.95
Available soon from www.misterfreedom.com
Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support 🙂
MFSC “SEA HUNT”
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Spring 2014 Collection
Digging through an old box of personal photos kicked a bit of nostalgia dust last year.
There was a time when one didn’t document every minute of daily life with 16 photos per second, so i am very much attached to the few hard copy prints that survived my youth. In one envelop were some mid 1980’s traces of a period of my life that seems to be someone else’s…
I had done some time aboard an old rusty ship of the “Marine Nationale“, up and down the Indian Ocean, around 1985. For the French, Military Service was mandatory until 1996. Should you opt for the Navy, serving consisted of a 12 month course in evading-chores-by-looking-busy’, punctuated by sleep deprivation for those at sea.
At the end of my 1 1/2 year (I piled up since I had nothing better to do), I got skilled at both and was ready for a life of, I envisioned, leisure.
Naval training school. Hourtin, France, 1986
During my tour, blessed were we all by the relative absence of major wars at the time, my ship’s duty included hunting down illegal fishing boats, the likes of which we never actually encountered. Comorian fishermen had obviously been using submarines.
Nonetheless, participating in geopolitical presence in waters known as TAAF (Territoire des Terres Australes et Antartiques Francaises) was great for a 20 year old. I don’t regret any minute of that paid vacation and its many discoveries and lessons.
Having sworn to secrecy under my Confidentiel-Défense status at the time (my specialty was transmission ie. decoding and relaying messages that were way above my head, sent through hi-tech technology that involved a large noisy machine spilling out punched paper tape…), there are obviously things i cannot talk about here. Such as the following, for instance:
* My Lieutenant kicking my sleepy rear to attention around 0500 (pronounce zero-five-hundred for effect, thank you), as i laid motionless on a Mayotte (I think) sun-bleached wooden pontoon (I know). That EV1 had awoken a few minutes before me, a few yards away. We, along with a few of the ship’s finest on that pontoon, had missed the shuttle deadline back to the ship the night before. I have somewhat of a blurry remembrance of that debacle, but I am pretty positive it didn’t involve g Earl Grey and museums. Whatever classy local establishments were honored by our presence that evening have been eradicated from memory. What I, and an agitated taxi driver surely do remember however, is the moment i noticed my wallet was gone…
Another classy establishment, with my good buddy ‘Tug’, and an unidentified happy gentleman. Kenya 1987
* On another ‘critical mission’, we moored next to a very tiny remote Indian Ocean island called Juan de Nova. The island was inhabited by a group of intimidating sun-beaten French Paratroopers stationed there. I believe that mission was called: “Hey guys, we were nowhere in the neighborhood, so we decided to stop by”. These Special Forces bunch hadn’t seen much else than each others’ mugs for a while, appeared quite content with it, and used words like they were rationed. Conversing with a yellow-haired skinny squid was not on their priority list.
As a lucky member of the shore party, the emotional equivalent of winning the Lottery, I took a solitary stroll around that island. I was trying to look at it from a Crusoe perspective, immersing in the concept of ‘trapped in Paradise’. As postcard pretty as that island was, I came to the conclusion that I wasn’t just ripe for marooning. Today, I might reconsider.
These dudes and that island however, left quite an impression on me. I knew they had some stories. If that island could talk…
Some 30 years later, trying to piece a somewhat coherent story for a new concept, many of these snapshots and memories helped me come up with a brief script, the backdrop of Mister Freedom® mfsc Spring 2014.
This collection might seem to some as a 360º + 90º turn compared to previous MF® line-ups.
I have to admit I was done with the 1900’s, sepia, dark alleys, gangs, smoky gambling saloons, battlefields, the Dust Bowl, revolutions… All good stuff but doing research can be draining, and I wanted a break from chaotic situations. The constant visualization of violence-charged images is a bit disturbing over time.
I longed for Cousteau’s exploits. On COLOR TV!
I realized I was craving for a shot of sun-drenched islands, turquoise lagoons, luxuriant vegetation, adventure, coastal surveying, successful survival stories, tropical scientific journeys and treasure hunting! I wanted the fascinating mental escape that the lure of hidden mysteries brings. I needed the high of discovering and learning something new. Maybe I wanted to play GI Joe again, sans war…
Over the summer of 2013, I religiously listened to a radio show podcast on France-Inter called “Le Temps d’un Bivouac“, highlighting the works of contemporary adventurers, scientists, nomadic philosophers, field writers, anthropologists… Fascinating interviews that turned my commute to work into a blissful moment.
Also, along with watching several documentaries about discoveries and expeditions, some fascinating reads kept me in the mood for this collection (I have become an audible addict):
* “South Sea Tales” by Jack London.
* “River of Doubts” by Candice Millard.
* “Deep Survival” by Laurence Gonzales.
* “Shadow Divers” by Robert Kurson.
* “The Lost City of Z” by David Grann.
* “Into Africa” by Martin Dugard.
* “Au Congo Jusqu’au Cou” by Patrice Franceschi
* “Between Man and Beast” by Monte Reel.
* “Unbroken” by Laura Hillenbrand.
* “Wolf, The Lives of Jack London” by James Haley.
* “The Things They Carry” by Tim O’Brien.
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So, here she goes…
The mfsc “SEA HUNT” Story
“And there were these guys I ran into a while back at the Harbor Inn. They called it the Horrible Inn…
A rugged bunch of fun-loving and thrill-seeking daredevils who combed the Earth for adventure, the unanswered, and the occasional gold that crept from under their feet.
From attempts at locating Percy Fawcett’s “City of Z” in the Amazon, to ID-ing obscure sunken U-boats off the New Jersey coast, from privately funded rescue missions of some fortunate survivors, to Government sponsored land survey expeditions of un-charted islands… this for-hire bunch never turned down the perspective of a good thrill and challenging puzzler.
The Team was a kaleidoscope of talents and specialties, combining military backgrounds, academic training, survival skills and passion for discovery with an overall disdain for idleness. Each member pitched in his unique skills and experience, making the Team at home in “Here Be Dragons” areas. On Sea, Land or Air. With some roots in the late 1950’s, the Team fully bloomed in the 60’s and remained very active through the 70’s.
In the summer of 1966, a polaroid of the Team in the debrief room would have included:
An ex Bell UH-1 (pronounce ‘Huey’, again for effect) pilot on Air America, a UDT frogman drop-out, a young archaeologist and maritime historian, a French anthropologist with a stint in the Foreign Legion, a SERE instructor turned American Advisor in Vietnam, an aqua shop clerk versed in 8 languages and ex-corpsman, an honorably discharged Navy ‘snipe’, a less-honorably-discharged ‘deck ape’ with a fondness for extended Liberty outings, along with a Peruvian folk singer. These men constituted the core of this International band of adventurers.
There was a humanitarian and scientific aspect to most missions, but when it came to sunken treasures, the “He who floats it, owns it” mentality mostly took over. There were a few very lucky strikes, and they sometimes wore their “What Sunk Floats My Boat”© Tshirts.
The Team was ultimately beat to the Nuestra Señora de Atocha‘s cargo by the mighty Mel Fisher crew on July 20, 1985, however. A mother lode of $450 million worth of Spanish galleon goodness sitting on the ocean’s floor since 1622. Good for them.
The colorful members of the Team brought their own pro-gear at times, but were always outfitted in custom made garments, with specific designs matching each mission. Borrowing details from uniforms of their previous trade, ordering dye-lots according to specific job requirements, the Team’s style became quite recognizable amongst competitors.
Detailing their wardrobe, the trained eye would spot here and there several familiar references: the pattern of a knife pocket from a USAF Cold Weather Unit flying coveralls, the blue linen fabric characteristic of 50’s French Navy work uniforms, mil-specs zippers from legit field gear, US Army baker pants patterns, genuine parts salvaged from a parachute factory…
Some of their early gear even featured the quite hi-tech ‘Hook and Loop Fastener’ system, invented in 1948 and better known as Velcro. Impressive stuff.
Many of the fabrics they went for were of military origin, such as the WW2 developed textile meant to replace silk in canopy manufacturing, called ‘Ripstop’. And the tight plain-weave of the ‘Weather Cloth’ favored by many in the field for its hard-wearing and wind-breaking qualities…”
(end of fiction!)
The morphing of that made-up Team story into each garment of our “Sea Hunt” Collection spans an era of about 4 decades of influences and inspirational material, from several Continents and many latitudes.
It is not a dated ‘time capsule’, nothing was taken literally. History was speculated with. We keept it light 🙂
As a result, the general vibe of our Spring 2014 might partially qualify as:
* Vintage hi-tech
* Military sans war
* G.I. Joe Adventure Team gear
* Hatari! meets M*A*S*H in an unfashionable pho pas.
* The Calypso goes in-country
* Old-timey Survival and Tactical outfits
* Gym clothes for Astronauts
* Costumes for the 1966 Int’l Man of Action of the Year
* “Whaaaaat?”
* etc, etc… further descriptive left up to everyone’s imagination.
But, we are all pretty stoked about it around here. I dig this one. We hope some of you will too.
So, may the contenders for the 2014 Int’l Men of Action contest stay tuned… The word is about an imminent drop of Sea Hunt gear!
Thank you for reading my ramblings.
And thank you for your support, always.
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Pit Stop Shirt
“The Sportsman” Catalog, Spring 2014
There aren’t many rules in the Garment Industry, but it is often agreed upon that one should avoid the word ‘pit’ when considering a moniker for a men’s shirt.
As a winning formula for a high sell-through, it is not unlike an entire collection of flesh colored polyester overalls.
So, let’s proudly introduce Mister Freedom® ‘Pit Stop Shirt’, another addition to our Sportsman catalog for Spring 2014.
One could think that this was, again, heavily influenced by my personal musical hero, JB.
JB Courtesy Getty Images ESPN
However, we had two finely woven striped broadcloth selvedge fabrics milled in Japan for the occasion. Inspired by vintage swatches from our archives, these two light weight fabrics have somewhat of an old work/uniform feel to them. Milkman meets delivery driver meets filling station attendant on the Pacific Coast Highway circa 1935, meets Le Mans.
What a party.
The pattern of the ‘Pit Stop’ is that of our original Sportsman Chambray shirt, featuring some MF® Sportsman signature details that our entire block envies us for. Including across the street.
Things like inverted box-pleat pocketing, shoulder expansion pleats, inside green chain-stitch, metal cast buttons, side gussets, chin strap, American manufacture… to name a few.
Our Pit Stop Shirt is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by our usual vintage influences.
FABRIC:
Two options
a) Blue: fine and light-weight 100% cotton woven stripe broadcloth, selvedge, milled in Japan.
b) White: fine and light-weight 100% cotton woven stripe broadcloth, selvedge, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original chest inverted box-pleat double pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Full button front.
* MF® original olive green painted embossed metal buttons, combination solid and MFSC branding.
* White cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke.
* One piece cuff gusset.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chain-stitch MF® signature.
* Side gussets with self fabric.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
* Made in California, USA.
SIZING/WASHING:
The Pit Stop shirt comes unwashed and will shrink to tagged size. If you are a usually a medium in other mfsc shirts, go with a medium. Both fabric options size and fit the same.
Although a very light-weight and fine fabric, this is a low maintenance shirt, no special care. Machine wash and tumble dry as needed.
Please refer to chart bellow for measurements.
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)
Retail $289.95
Soon available on www.misterfreedom.com
Please call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not answered above.
Thank you sincerely for baring with us and for your support.
Indian Madras Sportsman Shirt
“The Sportsman” Catalog Spring 2014
Originally a plain cotton muslin of loose weave, madras textiles were lightweight and breathable fabrics, a perfect fit for the hot climate of the Madras (now Chennai) region, Southeast India.
In the 1800’s (I know, at least I left out the early Dutch settlers stories), the area many weavers were also producing ‘Madrasi checks’, a local interpretation of the Scottish tartans some occupiers were sporting. Out of some 200 weaving villages came out countless patterns of hand loomed plaids, in bold vegetable dyed colors…
The typical and desirable slubby aspect of a madras type fabric is due to the fact that the yarn is carded and not combed, resulting in variations of thickness and fluctuating texture. That slub is something close to impossible to duplicate for modern factories instructed to emulate random ‘imperfections’. In Chennai, they had it…
Photo Courtesy of A.K. Muralitharan
For those interested in historical anecdotes, here is a quite interesting twist of event. How a croaking problem turned into a oh-so-desirable effect, thanks to a last minute marketing strategy concocted to liquidate defective stocks of non color-fast madras fabrics.
One of the version of the “Guaranteed To Bleed” story goes like this. It dates back to sometime in 1958 or 1956 (according to the source) when…
“… the leading textile importer William Jacobson embarked on a trip from the U.S. to Bombay in the hopes to return with this exotic fabric from India.
Upon his arrival, the local textile Commissioner Mr. Swaminathan directed him to Captain C.P.Krishnan Nair the proprietor of Leela Scottish Lace Ltd, a textile exporting company from Chennai ( modern day Madras) who presented Jacobson with a fabric that he fell for right away. It was a Madras plaid fabric with a strong smell of vegetable dyes and sesame oils that was dyed in vivid colors that was originally made for export to South Africa. Mr. Nair was delighted to supply Mr. Jacobson with the Madras fabric at $1 per yard, warning him that the fabric required utmost care when laundering because the color would run out if it wasn’t gently washed in cold water.
The American exporter sold ( 10,000 yards ) of the same fabric to Brooks Brothers who manufactured trousers and jackets (which sold for $50) . However Jacobson failed to fully explain the properties of the fabric and did not issue washing instructions to Brooks Brothers.
Customers were furious when they saw the colors run that ruined their expensive summer apparel. Jacobson was likewise furious and summoned Mr. Nair to the United States where his attorneys threatened to sue Mr. Nair and the Leela Scottish Lace Ltd.
Instead of fighting each other they came up with solution that was sheer marketing genius! One of the attorneys arranged an interview for Mr. Nair with the editor of Seventeen Magazine in which he created a story about this miracle Madras fabric from India that was exclusively made for Brooks Brothers in New York. In the following issue, the editor ran a seven-page article about fabric titled “Bleeding Madras — the miracle handwoven fabric from India”. And since pictures say more than 1,000 words, they added beautiful photographs with the caption “guaranteed to bleed”.
Within a days of the magazine hitting the newsstands, Brooks Brothers was flooded with thousands of requests for the Madras items and it became an overnight success. Both, Mr. Jacobson and Mr. Nair made a fortune from the sale and paved the way for future Indian fabric exports of millions of yards of Madras cloth.”
Of the power of a few photos and chosen words in a magazine, eh?
If only the Fashion media would put that magic formula to good use more often… But, paying sponsors are about moving more widgets, not about doing less damage. So we might never see the end of factory distressed garment ads…
Randomly fast forwarding to the summer of ’65, direction the preppy side of Southern California. If you owned two shirts on Campus, chances are one of them was a short sleeved cotton Madras plaid shirt. For many preps, and even a few tambor beating beatniks, these were the go-to shirts. ‘Inland’ surfers wore madras plaid regatta shirts. Golfers figured madras plaid pants were a great idea. Greasers couldn’t be bothered…
For Spring 2014, we were fortunate to get our hands on two limited runs of genuine Indian Madras.
Although the lots we secure were not hand loomed by Anakaputhur villagers in the summer of 1912 and of a fairly recent manufacture, the fabrics are reminiscent of vintage Madras. Loose weave, light weight, breathy, slubby… These two specifically caught my eyes as I originally flipped through a few thousands swatches of available madras stock last year. There was, what I thought of, a cool sixties vibe to both, a non-contemporary feel.
In the 1990’s, I was lucky to be schooled on vintage madras shirting by my good buddy Kenny Thomas, then a designer for Ralph Lauren, constantly looking for inspirational plaids to adorn the little guy on a horse with. Kenny is now both the talented front man and designer behind the Grayers brand. Yes, he also takes photos and makes timeless comments on Instagram…
Back to our horses here, please note that our madras are not ‘bleeding madras’, as non color-fast dyes have proven too challenging for the average customer through the years, and have slowly disappeared from garment manufacturing.
Our Sportsman Madras Shirts will just fade like regular garments do when washed and worn repeatedly.
We arbitrarily called our two madras fabric options ‘Beach‘ and ‘Sierra‘, however tempting Padmanabh (One With Lotus In His Navel) and Gajanan (One With Elephant Face) were. We decided to go with simple on this one.
For the pattern, we used our ‘classic’ Sportsman shirt specs, featuring some MF® ‘signature’ details such as original pocketing, shoulder expansion pleats, inside green chain-stitch, metal cast buttons, side gussets, two arms…
Style wise, the unlikely pairing of a 60’s plaid madras vibe with workwear type shirting sounding like a big no-no, we immediately went for it.
The result is a simple, casual looking long sleeved cotton plaid shirt. It’s easy to match with denim, chinos, wheat jeans, pleather bikinis… Although not shirtjak (ie. cropped by contemporary streetwear standards), this shirt can be worn tucked-in or out.
For more exquisite pairing inspiration, the interweb abounds in illuminated suggestions. And so do, at times, vintage ads…
A fierce 1963 ad
Our Indian Madras Sportsman Shirt is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Made from genuine imported Indian Madras.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by our usual vintage influences.
FABRIC:
Two options:
a) Madras ‘Beach‘: 100% cotton woven plaid muslin, with dominant brown/sky blue/washed-out-plum, woven in India.
b) Madras ‘Sierra’: 100% cotton woven plaid muslin, with dominant turquoise/white/brown/yellow, woven in India.
DETAILS:
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original chest inverted box-pleat double pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Full button front.
* MF® original olive green painted embossed metal buttons, combination solid and MFSC branding.
* White cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke.
* One piece cuff gusset.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chain-stitch MF® signature.
* Side gussets with self fabric.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
* Limited run.
* Made in California, USA.
SIZING/WASHING:
The Sportsman Madras shirt is pretty low maintenance. Wash and wear type stuff.
Due to the loose weave of the fabric however, we recommend to wash on delicate cycle, to avoid snagging.
Cotton madras looks and feels also better after laundry than when raw. When dry, the wrinkled aspect is desirable with this type of textiles. I am not a big fan of perfectly ironed shirts anyways, personal preference. My socks however…
Both fabric options will shrink to close-call same measurements, according to who takes them and how much pulling and attention is applied.
Our sample in-house rinse tests were done with cold water/gentle cycle/machine dry.
If you are usually a medium in MFSC Sportsman shirting, wear a medium in the Madras.
Shirts will shrink to tagged size. Please refer to chart below for measurements:
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)
Retail $289.95
Soon available on www.misterfreedom.com
Please call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not answered above, such as the name of our fruit sponsor etc…
Thank you for reading and the continuing support 🙂
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