-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
West Side Story. The End.
“El Americano” Waistcoat
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection
We introduced the concept behind our “Viva la Revolución” mfsc Collection during Spring 2013.
For the first chapter of this on-going saga for Fall 2013, let’s welcome a new character, el Americano...
Aptly nicknamed due to his whereabouts North of the Rio Grande, not for his barista skills, our gringo fought alongside Mexican revolutionaries during the 1910-1920 Revolution.
More often for financial gratification than ideological convictions, foreign soldiers of fortune from around the World joined the ranks of the Maderistas, Villistas and other rebel armies. They earned nicknames as colorful as ‘Dynamite Slim’ or ‘El Diablo’, which allowed them to keep the greetings of an introduction brief…
El Americano was special. Unlike some of his compañeros of the ‘Gringo Rag-Tag Battalion‘, and although a feared fighter, he fancied being stylishly clad at all times. As others remarked on his unlikely field attire, he would retort: “Hombre, I always dress to kill.”
Someone sneered, once. Just once.
Such the poet was El Americano.
Anyways, back to the reality of 2013…
Our “El Americano” waistcoat was inspired by several vintage early 1900’s European fancy pieces. Its lapel style is often a trademark of early Old West portrait photography. The pattern is a combination of fancy tailoring tricks and details.
We have developed no less than 4 entirely different fabrics for this waistcoat, all milled and dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Brown Duck, golden brown cotton sateen back.
b) Grey Covert Stripe, black cotton sateen back.
c) Indigo dyed Corduroy, black cotton sateen back.
The last developed fabric is an indigo yarn covert twill that was originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s trousers from the 1890’s. The most unlikely sight, although I’ve seen quite my share of unusual textiles used as linings in early tailoring. I always love discovering ‘hidden treasures’ when opening up a vintage garment, such as a ‘crazy’ lining in a formal piece. They were often not a fashion statement, rather the need to use up fabric left over from a previous project, at times when discarding perfectly fine supplies was not a National sport.
 Vintage trousers lining This 8.5 Oz. selvedge indigo fabric is the inner lining of “El Americano”, for its three options.
The outer back piece is a tightly woven 100% cotton sateen, matching the body.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by early European style tailored waistcoats typical of early Old West attire.
FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930’s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled…
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military. Yes, we look everywhere for inspiration. The only place off limit being what other contemporary brands do.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed.
DETAILS
* Slim silhouette, Old West waistcoat style. Angled front panels and curved back vented one-piece panel.
* Small round lapel
* Off-set shoulder construction
* High buttoned style (7 buttons).
* Three front pockets
* 100% cotton sateen tonal back panel.
* Underarm gusset.
* Engraved coconut wood buttons, aka ivory nut, aka corozo (and no, not chorizo as my spell check suggests.)
* Full adjustable cinch back with French vintage New Old Stock metal slide buckle.
* Unbleached cotton sail cloth pocket lining.
*100% cotton tonal stitching.
SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that desirable fresh-off-the-shelf look. As your waistcoat dries, fold and shape the collar to your liking, for a skinnier or fatter lapel (see the difference on the fit pix.)
For the Indigo Corduroy “El Americano” waistcoat, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments, or sleeping face down on a fancy white sofa fully clothed.
Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.
I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “El Americano” waistcoat.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage.
Available raw/unwashed
Sizes
36 small
38 medium
40 large
42 Xlarge
44 XXlarge
Retail:
a) Brown Duck $439.95
b) Grey Covert Stripe $439.95
c) Indigo Corduroy $459.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.
The “CAMP” Shirt, printed brushed flannel
“The Sportsman” Collection. Made in USA.
MFSC Fall 2013
Woven plaid flannel shirts have been a staple of many labels comes Fall. A bit more neglected than its woven sister is the printed plaid flannel shirt…
Printed flannel fabrics were popular in the 1940’s-50’s. Fabric printing being less costly than weaving and looming, printed flannel garments made it to store shelves in shapes of outdoor/work/western shirts, robes, pajamas, sleeping bags liners, hunting jackets linings…
Some prints were novelty types graphics but many were a trompe-l’œil that looked like woven patterns: tartans, plaids, herringbone, houndstooth, gingham… A combination of ink and discharge prints made the plain weave flannel fabrics look fancily woven from a distance.
The inspiration for our “Camp” shirt print was a vintage early 1950s flannel men’s robe (made by Montgomery Ward label “Brent’s”). I played with the original red color combo to come up with a ‘plausible’ second color option that didn’t exist in the catalog.
I had thought of making a robe but was soon punched in the face during a board meeting. I then decided to make shirts instead… It’s all about communication around here.
We sourced out some fine cotton flannel (selvedge, since we wanted to use the selvedge on the gussets) and it went through the lengthy process or getting dyed, printed and brushed (for a soft nap touch) in Japan before getting shipped to Los Angeles.
The shirts were then cut/sewn in a clean, ethically run factory, under the California sun.
The “Camp” adds itself to the “Sportsman” shirting catalog, our on-going concept introduced in 2012.
We are using our Sportsman shirt pattern, already available in indigo popeline, stripe ticking and chambray. This Fall, the painted metal snap buttons (by DOT) are a nod to vintage 50’s Wrangler or Ranchcraft western plaid shirts. Please note our ‘Camp” shirt is not a western cut/yoke type shirt.
The “Camp” displays our Sportsman signature green chainstitch on the inside, seen on the ‘very Christmas like’ dangling gusset run-offs.
Those of you familiar with old beat-up vintage 50’s printed flannel shirt know that they age well and look amazing with patina, once the print starts wearing off from slow abrasion, wash and wear and sun exposure. Don’t get too excited, that takes years wear of course. And in the field, not on the sofa.
Just something to think about if you have children. They are today making fun of your clothes but will someday proudly wear them when you have done all the breaking-in 😉
Designed and made in the USA by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage outdoor/workwear shirting.
FABRIC
100% cotton brushed flannel, dyed and ink/discharge printed in Japan.
Two color options
a)Red plaid
b)Black plaid
DETAILS
* Made in California, USA.
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original MF® chest inverted box-pleat double pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Full button front, metal painted DOT snaps.
* MFSC branded original embossed metal buttons for neck band closure.
* White cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke.
* One piece cuff gusset.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count, tonal.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich MF® “Sportsman” signature.
* Side gussets with selvedge fabric.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
SIZING/WASHING
As most times with our clothes, these shirts come RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size.
I wear a Medium in all MF® shirts, and wear Medium in the Camp shirt as well.
Although 100% cotton, this flannel fabric has quite a bit of ‘mechanical stretch’ after being rinsed and dried, therefore adjusting itself slightly to the wearer.
For cleaning, we recommend cold water wash on gentle cycle and hang dry.
Please note that the shirts in the chart below were cold rinsed and fully machine dried, for your shrinkage reference only. Again we recommend hang drying them.
Available from our brand spanking new online store
Raw/unwashed
Size Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large
Retail $299.95
Made in USA
For any questions please Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call the store at 323) 653-2014
Thank you for the support.
The “FREIGHTER” Bag, Made in USA
by Mister Freedom®
Although Antiques are green, this bag, 100% made from recycled bits and pieces, is red.
The ‘freighter’ is pieced together from recycled vintage Government Issued gear found in surplus warehouses.
We turned a small batch of vintage canvas mail bags from the “Department of State, Air Freight” (1970s-80s) into tote bags, a bat will be able to spot you with in the thickest jungle.
The bottom of those bags had been very roughly splattered or dipped in a hot rubber compound, for water proofing when in transit. Whoever was assigned the rubberizing stage of the manufacturing process was obviously paying attention to something else.
Each bag was originally stenciled and numbered.
The straps/handles are GI as well. They came out of a US military NOS wooden crate from 1967, and were originally strap down webbing straps used for transport/shipping purposes.
The original mail bags we recycled were very roughly, albeit efficiently and sturdily, constructed. Meant to be thrown around carelessly and intended to be visible in an ocean of cargo on the tarmac, they are not of a delicate or refine nature. Red and rugged.
When it comes to bags, the Mister Freedom® “Freighter” shares many similarities with the Hermès “Kelly”, as can be clearly seen on the photos. Our “Freighter”, however, is believed to be more practical as a grocery shopping/beach bag.
Designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®. Limited edition.
SPECS:
* 100% cotton canvas from recycled Government Issued mail bags with period stenciling. Rubberized bottom.
* Cotton webbing handles, mil-spec 1670-360-0540, olive green with red woven ID stripes.
* Four outer ‘kangaroo’ pockets
* Approx dimensions: Length 19” x Height 17” x Depth 5”
* Genuine parachute tie attached to grommet.
* Two side D rings.
* Olive Drab poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Weighs about 730g. (~1.6 Lbs)
* MF® painted stencil (will flake off.)
* Washable: When needed wash in warm water, inside out. Hang dry.
* Un-lined. (Please note that the rubberizing heat process penetrates the fabric and rubber can be seen going through the canvas, when looking inside the bag. It is not dirt.)
* Limited edition.
* Each piece is uniquely imperfect.
Retail $229.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support. And thank you in advance to the Hermès legal team for their sense of humor.
Please note that the top photo shows an early prototype of the “Freighter” (it had white stitching). Production comes as shown in the other photos.
Mister Freedom® MFSC “El Jefe” Henley Shirt
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Fall 2012
It is now time for the first installment of the final chapter of our “Viva la Revolución” MFSC Fall 2013 collection. To warm things up, let’s start at the top and introduce ‘El Jefe’…
Not a very common feature of Henley type shirts is the off-set front placket of some early models. This off-centered undershirt opening was an added protection against the cold and winds, leaving the neck fully covered when a top garment was worn.
See two vintage examples here, with the close-up of that hysterical woven label… and its roughly 33 1/3 % wool fiber content, give or take 😉
You sometimes can spot these types of shirts in old period movies. Also in Darius Kinsey style photographic works of woodsmen and other 1900’s~30’s delicate creatures. Below, the fellow on the left appears to be wearing an off-set Henley undershirt or union suit (20’s? from the ‘Kinsey Photographer’ book ISBN 1-884822-22-3).
Undershirts made of brushed cotton fleece (pilou in French) were a popular winter layer in the Old World, while the New World had preferred the cotton/wool knit jerseys, or the later waffle ‘thermal’ still used today.
For ‘El Jefe’, we chose 100% cotton brushed fleece with heathered pattern, in two color options. The heather pattern is unlike the typical athletic type fleece, but rather unique with a very un-even random repeat (something programmed machines do not like.)
The construction as well was a bit of a challenge for the factory since we wanted a ‘poncho’ type cut, ie. a single panel folded in half with no top shoulder seam. We’re crazy like that.
This made the neck opening cutting stage more complicated and time consuming than the usual front/back two panel construction (because the neck hole is in the middle, you cannot start the electrical cutter from the edge of the fabric.)
The sleeves are intentionally cut to fall a bit above the cuffs, an acquired taste and feature often seen on military winter underwear clothing, so that the under layer remains concealed under the uniform. It also somewhat prevented a sleeve to get caught in machinery.
‘El Jefe’ is quite warm and can be worn either as a layer or a outer piece, tucked in or out according to your mood or religious beliefs.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, made in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MSFC pattern, inspired by early European Henley type winter undershirts.
FABRIC: Mid weight 100% cotton fleece, soft brushed back, heather pattern with tightly woven cotton sateen button placket. Made in Japan. Two color ways
a) Natural heather with off-white cotton sateen placket.
b) Grey heather with slate blue cotton sateen placket.
DETAILS
* Single panel fold, ‘poncho style’ body.
* Off center front button placket
* Natural horn cat eye button front closure.
* 3/4 type sleeves.
* Adjustable gusseted cuff button closure.
* Coverstitch construction, 100% cotton tonal thread.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/WASHING:
I am a medium in ‘El Jefe’, with a comfortable fit.
We recommend regular gentle cycle washing and line dry. Minimal shrinkage with this cotton fleece, a medium will shrink to tag size. Like with mid weight ‘sweat shirt’ type textiles, fleece stretches slightly when worn.
Please refer to chart below for raw/washed & dried approximate measurements.
Available Raw/unwashed
Size S, M, L, XL, XXL
Retail $229.95
Visit our webstore or brick and mortar in Los Angeles to get yours.
Thank you for your support 😉
Mister Freedom® “TRIPPER Bag”, Denim, Type 2
Made in USA
Time for an updated version of our original denim ‘Tripper bag‘ we made in 2010, sold out for some time.
The pattern has not changed from the original Type 1 “Tripper”, but we have updated several elements such as the lining/webbing/trims…
I have used mine pretty much everyday for about 2 years, and I’m quite attached to it. We like to make things that look better with age and wear, so my beat-up Type 1 bag now looks better than when new and raw, which is better than the other way around 😉
You know by now where I stand on factory distressed denim/garments, so I’ll spare you the usual rant. The TRIPPER only comes cold rinse/hang dry. Because of the starch in the denim fibers, the bag will feels stiff when new, but will break and soften-up gradually with use.
Basically, we do the easy part of putting it together, you take it from there and make it look nice 😉
For reference, the photo below is my Type-1, shot in April 2013.
 Perso Type 1 Tripper, used for about 2 years The limited edition “TRIPPER Bag, Type 2” is ‘Mister Freedom® built’, right here in our Los Angeles atelier. In other words, designed and hand made in the USA.
SPECS:
PATTERN: Original Mister Freedom® pattern
FABRIC:
* Shell: Assorted New Old Stock indigo selvedge raw denim, about 13 Oz.
* Lining: NOS woven stripe ticking, 100% cotton.
DETAILS
* Webbing: Sturdy 100% cotton straps, unbleached white with woven navy blue stripes.
* Top closure: Recycled military cotton webbing. Inside metal “D” ring for keys.
* Approx. Size: Length 16” x Width 8” x Height 15”
* Pocketing:
Two outside box-pleat pockets, vintage A2 type “United Carr” snap closure for flap.
Two inside side pockets
One inside large pocket 14.5” by 11” , snap closure (fits a Mac Notebook, or a phone book, because we all carry a phone book around)
* Indigo dyed HBT tape on inside seam.
* Visible denim selvedge on inside only.
* Tonal stitching
* White ID tape underneath outside pocket, for your perso custom marking/stenciling.
* Limited Edition.
(Rinsed and hung dry, One Size. Retail $449.95)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
|
