Introducing the second chapter of our collaboration collection with Sugar Cane Co “Viva la Revolución”. This Fall/Winter volume follows the previously Spring/Summer story you can read about here.
As always, the inspiration for this collection is quite eclectic, near and far from the Rio Grande in the first thirty years of the 20th Century. I will turn to full rambling mode for each item as production hits our HQ, sometime in Sept/Oct 2013.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
The Fall 2013 line up will include:
* “EL AMERICANO” Jacket:
Three different fabrics
a) Brown duck selvedge canvas
b) Indigo dyed wide wale Corduroy
c) Grey ‘stripe’ heavy canvas
* “EL AMERICANO” Trousers:
Three different fabric a) b) c)
* “EL AMERICANO” Waistcoat:
Three different fabric a) b) c)
* “DROVER BLOUSE”:
A special edition in indigo dyed Melton wool.
* “RANCHERO” Shirt:
Two different fabrics
a) Indigo/Red woven plaid, cotton-linen selvedge
b) Indigo covert, selvedge
* “EL JEFFE” Henley (no, it’s not a sweater):
Two different fabrics
a) Natural heather brushed cotton fleece.
b) Gray heather brushed cotton fleece.
When not particularly blessed with self confidence in young adult life, one needs to rely on a few good souls to build it back.
The few who will early on understand your hesitating and approximate work, encourage and support you, refrain from You-know-what-you-should-do you and rather let you be yourself, are the reason why you’ll keep going and do your thing.
They will make you thrive to do better, acknowledge your efforts, validate the long hours, justify and respect your choice of an often less travelled road.
An honest pat on the back on that road, at the right time, goes a long, long way.
The fine bunch below, from close friends to business acquaintances, is a non-exhaustive list.
But this appreciative small potato wanted to express it’s gratitude, late and in no particular order, to a few who come to mind today.
To early self-confidence builders who inspire one to keep doing it his way, I dedicate this post.
Kenny Thomas
In my early days of rag collecting solo, Kenny was a Designer at Ralph Lauren… In the mid 90’s, he purchased some Japanese indigo boro from my garage, rags that I had randomly picked up in Japan. These 100 year old patched-up textiles were used as back-drops for RL collections rigs at the time… Boro fabric has been pretty much featured on every single fashion blog and magazine by now.
Kenny now is the Creative Director behind Grayers Menswear collections, a skilled photographer, proud Father of Tate and the lesser half of photographer Leeta Harding.
AND my irrelevant comedy routine partner on Instagram 😉
Todd Snyder
As head of design at J.Crew in the mid 90’s, Todd and his design team (Frank Muytens was there) regularly visited my non-glamorous warehouse in Sun Valley, CA., to pick up inspirational pieces from the ol’ pile of rags. Graphics, fleece, plaids etc…
Todd has since then launched his successful Todd Snyder label. Frank is now head of Men’s Design at J.Crew.
Toyo Enterprises
When randomly approached by Tom Tanaka and team at the Mister Freedom® store back in 2006, I was asked to design a pair of jeans, carte blanche… Little did they know that I had NO idea where to start. Made a pair from scratch, a few days before due date. The “Utility Trousers, MFSC 7161” were born and were the foundation of our on-going MFSC collaborations that keep me clothed every day. Solid folks, all of them.
Kiya Babzani
Kiya and his imported Japanese denim mecca Self Edge was the first US retailer to pick up the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane line for his store in San Francisco, sometime in 2008.
He now has expanded with several boutiques across America, having earned much respect within the Denimhead World through hard work and expertise.
Furthermore, I am indebted to all independent boutiques and their hard working owners & staff currently carrying Mister Freedom®.
Katsu & Leo Yoshida
The design legend and visionary guru behind Japanese ‘Yoshida Kanban’ (‘Porter Bags’) stumbled across an early version of Mister Freedom® store in Los Angeles (Martel Avenue location) sometime in 2004. He quietly picked up vintage items no one was looking for yet, giving me confidence that the early AM hunting wake-up calls were worth it…
Along with his son Leo Yoshida, Katsu launched his own boutique offering his brands in Ginza, Porter Classics. His luggage label ‘Kichizo’ is proudly carrying on the rich Family heritage of bag making.
Katsu and Leo’s new “Quartier Général” restaurant in Ginza, opening sometime in 2013, will surely become my new HQ when in Tokyo…
Cheers Mousquetaires 😉
Sir Paul Smith
A group of dapper folks set foot into Mister Freedom® store, sometime in 2007… I ended up discussing old rags with a certain Gentleman after he was done shopping. Quickly realizing that he was more than well versed in vintage textiles and styles, I said : “You must be in design, or something…?”
He replied, humbly: “Yes, a little bit… Kind of keeps me off the streets that.”
We shook hand, he said his name was Paul. Paul Smith.
Subsequently, Paul Smith® was the first European retailer to pick up a season of MFSC clothes (Naval Clothing Tailor, 2008) for one of their boutique in London, as a kind acknowledgment of what I was trying to do with my own thread inclination…
Steve Garbarino
Mr. Garbarino, then Chief Editor of “BlackBook Magazine”, sent photographer Sye Williams to the store in 2006. He then ran the first paper media article on Mister Freedom® to appear in a US Publication.
I choose to not use PR and keep the advertising budget close to zero, and considering no one had heard of the brand, that was a very nice plug. I talked about wanting to see more three-piece suits in the streets in that article, at a time when streets were plagued by Ed Hardy rhinestones…
Steve has a busy career and is now a contributing editor for ‘The Wall Street Journal’.
Michael Williams
The trend forecaster globe trotter and his website needs no introduction. After a visit, Michael ran a bit about Mister Freedom® on his popular “A Continuous Lean” website back in 2008. The first major ‘blog’ to highlight what was going on at 7161 Beverly Boulevard.
Doug Bihlmaier and Bob Melet
As the ‘A’ Team behind all the vintage buying for Ralph Lauren in the 1990’s, these two then partners-in-crime have been responsible for giving me the energy to carry on digging deeper and deeper for hidden treasures…
Doug, the Legend, is still handling all vintage buys at Ralph Lauren. (BL, you’ll appreciate I blurred your face)
Bob owns a design inspirational business of International fame based in New York called “Melet Mercantile” (84 Wooster St., #205, NY, NY 10012, by appointments only.)
Tina Wakino
From bearing with my 7 days/week schedule and my moods, to sanding the floors of the freshly rebuild store mezzanine in 2006… and everything in between and after, Tina has seen it all happen. She can testify of the blood sweat and tears as an insider and a compañera. She has also inspired me to try to become a better person… the hardest task of them all.
For the past 15 years, Tina has been independently operating her own successful and respected business, her boutique “Bazar” (1108c Abbot Kinney in Venice, CA. 90291.)
Merci Cosette 😉
Additionally, warm thank you to all past and present supporters of Mister Freedom®.
We wouldn’t be here today if you hadn’t been there yesterday.
Christophe Loiron,
Laborer at Mister Freedom®
“Le Révolutionnaire” Pantalon de Travail by Mister Freedom®
We scored a very nice lot of 1940’s-50’s New Old Stock (NOS) work-wear fabrics in France, thanks to a dear friend, Monsieur Jérome Girard, ze treasure hunter from Le Zouave
Speaking of vintage hunters friends, Arnaud Bauville from “French CanCan” and Damien from “Le Magasin” are great sources for European vintage 🙂
After their long ship voyage across the Atlantic, we decided to turn these fabrics into work trousers, inspired -but of course- by French work wear, à la façon Mister Freedom®.
The fabric stock came from a now defunct French teinturerie (dye house) from Amiens. Those rolls were left over and never made it to production. They were intended to be used for typical work jackets and pants to supply local farmers, construction workers, railroad crews, vignerons… with sturdy outfits that would last for decades and get patched up along the way.
Concealed inside the rolls of fabric were the original paper flashers and tags that were supposed to be attached to the finished garments. In this lot, there were mainly 6 different types of fabrics, ranging in color/texture/weight: Light blue to dark indigo, 100% cotton heavy moleskine to 100% cotton Bedford cord types (aka coutil)…
We gathered some vintage trims from our vault as well, such as original vintage 1940’s French unused woven labels “Le Révolutionnaire” (a probable reference to the wide spread ‘Front Populaire‘ Workers strikes of May-July 1936 in France), NOS stripe cotton twill for pocket bags, 1920’s NOS bone buttons for the fly, 1930’s painted metal “X” buttons for waist, NOS 2×1 indigo denim fly & waistband facing… Each pair also has its own original period paper labeling!
Because of limited quantities of yardage, we were not able to make full size runs in all fabrics. We focused on ‘popular’ waist sizes, a few 30, 32, 34 and 36.
To avoid random shrinkage issues, we decided to get all rolls sanforized before cut/sew, in order to keep the fit consistent across all fabrics. However, because of the different weights, the draping (= the way the fabric hangs) varies, and therefore the silhouettes.
As always, “Le Révolutionnaire” are no skinny pants. They are similar in silhouette to our MF® Chinos.
Designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®. Limited edition.
SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MF® pattern, inspired by several work trousers, with a 1930’s~1950’s French work-wear influence. FABRICS:
All fabrics are selvedge, tonal color ID.
* F01: 100% cotton Bedford Cord, Slate Blue color.
* F02: 100% cotton heavy moleskine, brushed back, “Bleu de Chauffe” color (typical dark navy French work-wear color). They are several batches from the F02 lot, varying slightly in weight and shades. We count them as one same fabric.
* F03: 100% cotton Bedford Cord, light blue-grey color.
* F04: 100% cotton Bedford Cord, Royal blue. Brushed back.
* F07: 100% cotton Bedford Cord, Slate Grey color. DETAILS:
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS French metal slide buckle.
* Selvedge leg side seams.
* NOS stripe cotton twill pocket bags.
* NOS 3×1 indigo denim waistband and button fly facing.
* 1920’s NOS bone buttons fly closure.
* 1930’s painted metal ‘X’ buttos, French NOS.
* Open bottom leg, overlocked, for your cuffing preferences (36 inches length, uncuffed)
* Two back welt pockets, the left one secured by a French original NOS painted metal ‘X’ button with debossed “*Solide*Elégant*” marking.
* Original 1940’s cotton woven “Le Révolutionnaire” label.
* Original paper labels and flashers form the original Dye House/Factory.
* 100% cotton tonal thread construction.
WASH/SIZING:
All fabrics have been pre-shrunk (Sanforized) before cut/sew, so there should be minimal shrinkage with subsequent wash/dry. Inside-out wash to avoid ‘marbling’. OK to machine dry. Low maintenance, as these fabrics were meant to withstand repeat soiling/wash/wear.
Some of the Bedford cord fabrics will tend to stretch back and forth with wash/dry/wear.
I wear a waist 32, for an ‘anti-fit’ look, which also allows me to break dance around the office, when the boss is not around.
Available sizes Waist 30, 32, 34, 36
Please call 323-653-2014 or Email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. Merci for ze support 😉
A little update on a few new MF® accessories available at the store… All made in California, USA.
Boro Ties SHORTIES: We made an edited version of our “Boro Tie“, with some recently acquired vintage Japanese indigo textiles. Ranging from the turn of the century to the 1950’s, the narrow shuttle loom fabrics are of assorted patterns, textures and colors, all one side selvedge and the other side frayed.
Home spun, cotton, hemp, natural indigo, katazome prints, plaids, solids…
Single wrap around the neck, simple single knot, they look great with different outfits, dressed up or down. You can also use an antique silver ring as a slider. We stopped making our leather sliders, as many companies seemed to have found them to be a good idea and made their own…
Check out the collage of old photos for a sample of different neckwear fashions in the late 1800’s~1930 (credits to the ever inspiring FaceBook page “Native American Indian – Old Photos“) Retail $129.95
Trade Blanket WOOLIES:
We are making small batches of iPad sleeve “Woolies” with recycled vintage wool trade blankets (Pendleton, Beaver State etc…)
Same specs and size as the military blanket woolies. The linings are made with assorted matching vintage fabrics from our stock. Retail $89.95
Call the store at 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com for infos on how to these little buggers. Paypal preferred. We ship Internationally to select countries.
Thank you for your support 🙂
Currently in a close race with Psy on Youtube…
At 3:20, you’ll notice how Inspector Clouseau would say “Apache“… CHIEF Inspector, my bad.
Zis case iz getting clozed. FACT.
