“RANCHERO Shirt” Mister Freedom® MFSC
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2013
Here we go with the final chapter of our ‘Viva la Revolución’ venture for this season.
The Ranchero design is inspired (no breaking news here) by vintage shirting, combined with some MF® signature elements. Inspiration was drawn from old movies, vintage photos and classic silhouettes. We mixed a bit of early work shirts, Indian ‘traditional’ tunics (if you are a casualty of Facebook, make up for wasted time looking at vacation photos of people you don’t know by checking this page), Old West shirting, ethnic garb, European fancy shirts, stirred it all up, and dipped it in the MF® salsa…
 
The ‘cut away’ collar pattern was inspired by late 1800’s European homemade farmer blouses & early Mexican and Mestizos tops.
We have developed two very different fabrics for the Ranchero:
a) “Dobby Stripe”: a fine white 100% cotton broadcloth woven with a Dobby loom. This specific fabric was duplicated from a rare vintage piece, the fancy plastron of a 1920’s European Henley shirt (actually the inspiration for the Charro Bib Henley.) It was expertly woven in Japan. The tiny color accents are woven black and navy yarns, and not a print.
b) “Indigo Calico”: a crispy 100% cotton selvedge popeline, indigo dyed to our specific hue, with a discharge AND a ‘madder’ red tiny print, inspired by several vintage swatches from our archives.
On a side note, many seem to have gotten on the ‘Indigo Calico’ bandwagon in the recent years, they can now figure out how to add a color on top. I wrote a bit about the discharge process for a previous shirt we made, the ‘Calico Trade Shirt’. The indigo dyed popeline base for the Ranchero is the same base fabric we used for our indigo Apache ‘Chemise Calico‘ in late 2010.
With an all original MF® pattern and two fabric options, the Ranchero is a pretty versatile shirt that can go dressy or casual, according to what you will match it with.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co under our MFSC collaboration. Limited Edition.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern inspired by vintage early shirting from the Americas and Europe.
FABRIC: Two options
a) “Dobby Stripe”: Fine white 100% cotton broadcloth woven with a dobby loom.
b) “Indigo Calico”: 100% cotton selvedge popeline, indigo dyed, with a discharge and a ‘madder’ red tiny print.
DETAILS:
* ‘Old West’ type silhouette.
* Full button front.
* Double button collar closure.
* Original MF® box pleat single chest pocket and ‘cut away’ collar.
* Cotton indigo popeline button hole placket facing, white cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Rounded front tail and square back tail.
* High stitch count chain stitch flat felled seam construction.
* Selvedge side gusset (self with indigo version and indigo popeline on Dobby stripe option)
* Sheared wrist cuffs.
* Double front and back shoulder yoke expansion pleats, a MF® signature.
* Painted embossed metal buttons, 1930’s workwear type.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
SIZING/WASHING:
This is not a tight fitting shirt, unlike our original Utility chambray from the “Naval Clothing Tailor” days for instance. Wear a medium if you are a medium in mfsc though.
Both fabric come raw/unwashed, and will shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an original cold wash on gentle cycle, minimal eco-friendly detergent and line dry.
Sizing Chart coming soon
Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large
Retail
a) White $399.95
b) Indigo $399.95
Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.
“CHARRO Bib Henley” by Mister Freedom® MFSC
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012
‘Henley’ type shirts seem to have their origin in the town of Henley-on-Thames, England. Pull over, open neck with button placket, they were worn by local Rowing team members.
Fast-forwarding a bit…
Before T-shirts were introduced (not sure about the date, i think it was a Tuesday though), button placket pull over cotton knit undershirts were a common layer of a man’s outfit in Europe, both for civilian and military use. These were used as undershirts, not intended to be worn as an outer layer. In the ‘old days’, showing your undershirt in public would have been a faux-pas, today’s equivalent to wearing your pajamas on a date, a rhinestone logo T-shirt on the street… all the way to exposing underpants label to the unfortunate ones walking behind. But I’m diverging.
The most common henleys are usually made of a solid cotton knit jersey body, with a matching button placket (at times replaced or lined with a popeline/sateen placket.)
The inspiration for our Charro Bib Henley was drawn from several unusual vintage 1920’s European Henley type shirts from our archives. These had the traditional jersey knit body but also a front plastron made of fancy shirting fabric, and a band collar with studs for attaching a removable collar of the same fancy fabric. They were the ‘poor man’ fancy shirt, as they required less costly fabric to manufacture (a solid cotton knit jersey being a cheaper fabric than a woven jacquard calico printed textile for example.) When wearing a waistcoat and a coat on top, the norm, no-one knew you were ‘missing’ the sleeves and most of the body…
With that story in mind, we tweaked the design a bit, and created two different versions of the Charro Bib Henley.
a) White 18/single (referring to the weight) tubular (loopwheel) cotton knit jersey body, with a white ‘Dobby Stripe’ woven jacquard calico printed plastron (some NOS from our previous Chemise Fantaisie).
b) Deep indigo dyed 18/single cotton knit jersey body (with side seams), with an indigo dyed discharge calico printed cotton popeline. We were happy to discover some NOS yardage from our previous Chemise Calico aka the ‘Johnny Depp‘ shirt. This is how this fabric will fade over time.
All above textiles milled/dyed/printed in Japan.
Our charro bib can be worn as a regular shirt, or an undershirt for a layering look.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co under our MFSC collaboration. Limited Edition.
SPECS:
* PATTERN: An original mfsc pattern, inspired by 1920’s vintage European Henleys.
* FABRICS: Two options
a) White 18/single tubular (loopwheel) cotton knit jersey body, with a white woven jacquard calico printed plastron.
b) Deep indigo dyed 18/single cotton knit jersey body (with side seams), with an indigo dyed discharge calico printed cotton popeline.
DETAILS:
* 18/single 100% cotton jersey body
* Fancy popeline/jacquard plastron
* Band collar
* Three button front closure, 30’s work-wear style metal painted buttons.
* Tonal cotton popeline shirting style cuffs.
* Underarm gusset piece.
* Half moon back neck reinforcement piece.
* Original mfsc woven rayon ‘hanging loop’ style label.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
SIZING/WASHING:
Hand wash only, cold water, gentle cycle, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
With the indigo dyed version, some minimal bleeding is expected and normal (bleeding will wash off eventually.)
Wear a medium if you are generally a medium in Mister Freedom® mfsc shirts.
Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large
Retail
a) White $149.95
b) Indigo $159.95
Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.
“HACENDADO Waistcoat” Mister Freedom® MFSC
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012
Introducing the third addition to our three piece Hacendado suit, with matching trousers and sack coat.
Coincidentally, the King showed up at the store today, to try a few things on. A new movie on the horizon maybe? A follow up to “Charro”?
Let’s not get lost in conjecture, as EP has now left the building. Glad we were able to snap a candid photo, when he came out of the dressing room.
We’ll just mark this April 1rst as a memorable day, thankyaverymuch…
Anyways.
We shamelessly borrowed and adopted the pattern of our “Faro Waistcoat” and made this vest in three fabric options, developed for this season:
* Stripe: Tan and indigo dyed yarns plain weave pinstripe pattern, a crispy blend of 55% hemp and 45% cotton, 6.8 oz., solid tan selvedge, inspired by a textile swatch from a 1930′s vintage waistcoat.
* Homespun: Natural/earth tones dyed yarns plain weave textile, a heavier blend of 68% hemp and 32% cotton, 11 oz., solid white selvedge, inspired by a turn of the century homespun French textile from a vintage South-West of France farmer blouse.
* Baja Denim: Lighter shade indigo dyed denim, 2×1 twill, 100% cotton, 6.5 oz., inspired by a specific indigo shade typical of Mexican artisan dyers of the time, selected from several vintage textiles of the area.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co., a limited edition.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC®, inspired by late 1800’s gents’ waistcoats. High buttoned, small fold lapel, slim snug silhouette.
FABRIC:
FRONT PANEL
a) ‘Stripe’ option: 6.8 oz selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ (as opposed to a ‘floating’ lining) 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
b) ‘Homespun’ option: 11 oz. selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Front panels lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline (unlined rear panels for this option). Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
c) ‘Baja Denim’ option: 6.5 oz. indigo dyed denim 2×1 twill, solid white selvedge, 100% cotton. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
FRONT PANEL and UNDER COLLAR lining: 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline.
BACK PANEL: Tightly woven all cotton sateen.
DETAILS:
* Intricate early waistcoat panel construction. Tailor made style.
* Adjustable back cinch strap with French New Old Stock (NOS) metal slide buckle.
* Eight button front, brown corrozo wood, aka ‘coconut wood’.
* Two front lower welt pockets
* 100% cotton thread tonal stitching.
* MFSC woven rayon label concealed under the back strap (an old tailoring detail on early custom tailor-made waistcoats, that usually included the customer name and the date, hand written)
PACKAGING: An original MF® printed denim draw string bag, reusable as a grocery bag, hand-made in our Los Angeles studio.
SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
All three fabric options come RAW (unwashed). We recommend cold soak and line dry, which will result in minimal shrinkage and no color loss. All Hacendado waistcoats will ultimately shrink to tagged size. Fuller shrinkage will be obtained with gentle machine cycle and low heat dryer, at your own risks.
The hemp/cotton blends will retain the desirable wrinkle effect typical of linen type textiles and ‘tropical’ look.
Refer to sizing chart below for approximate measurements:
 BAJA Hacendado Waistcoat
 HOMESPUN Hacendado Waistcoat Available RAW/Unwashed.
Size 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail $499.95
Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.
Mister Freedom® MFSC “HACENDADO Trousers”
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012
To complement our hacendado sack coat, here is the second part of the three piece suiting series for Spring 2013.
Inspired by several pattern of 1900’s to 1930’s slacks, the hacendado flat front trousers’ silhouette is reminiscent of classic 1920’s slacks, such as the tropical garb made by “Palm Beach Mills” (Goodall Company, Cincinnati, Ohio.) Vintage clothing aficionados might be familiar with that awesome label (see 1920 Ad below).
Our hacendado trousers come in three fabric options:
* Stripe: Tan and indigo dyed yarns plain weave pinstripe pattern, a crispy blend of 55% hemp and 45% cotton, 6.8 oz., solid tan selvedge, inspired by a textile swatch from a 1930′s vintage waistcoat.
* Homespun: Natural/earth tones dyed yarns plain weave textile, a heavier blend of 68% hemp and 32% cotton, 11 oz., solid white selvedge, inspired by a turn of the century homespun French textile from a vintage South-West of France farmer blouse.
* Baja Denim: Lighter shade indigo dyed denim, 2×1 twill, 100% cotton, 6.5 oz., inspired by a specific indigo shade typical of Mexican artisan dyers of the time, selected from several vintage textiles of the area.
Again, wearing a matching set is definitely a statement, and mismatching the fabrics a good alternative. These trousers can also be paired with less ‘dressy’ clothes and footwear to tone them down, as often seen of period photography (out of necessity more than as a fashion statement.)
Cuffing options are up to you as well, I personally opted for a standard 1¼ fold with my own pairs.
All designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co. Limited edition.
SPECS:
* PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by several vintage trousers from the 1900’s to the 1930’s. Elegant silhouette, for Gents not into skinny bottoms, or tights.
* FABRICS:
a) ‘Stripe’ option: 6.8 oz selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ (as opposed to a ‘floating’ lining) 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
b) ‘Homespun’ option: 11 oz. selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Front panels lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline (unlined rear panels for this option). Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
c) ‘Baja Denim’ option: 6.5 oz. indigo dyed denim 2×1 twill, solid white selvedge, 100% cotton. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
DETAILS:
* Higher rise, fit seat and fuller legs.
* Wide waistband with double button closure.
* Selvedge leg side seams.
* Thin belt loops, trousers style.
* “Italian” type front pockets, with fabric selvedge fold and early European arcuate decorative stitch.
* “Smiley” type rear welt pockets, with arcuate stitch. MF®, again putting a smile on your buns.
* Four button fly.
* Corozo wood buttons, aka ‘coconut wood’.
* Adjustable side cinch straps with French NOS metal slider buckles.
* MFSC stripe ticking 100% cotton waist lining and pocket bags. Fly facing with all cotton unbleached popeline.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
PACKAGING: An original MF® printed denim draw string bag, reusable as a grocery bag, hand-made in our Los Angeles studio.
SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
All three fabric options come RAW (unwashed). We recommend cold soak and line dry, which will result in minimal shrinkage and no color loss. All Hacendado trousers will ultimately shrink to tagged size. Fuller shrinkage will be obtained with gentle machine cycle and low heat dryer, at your own risks.
The hemp/cotton blends will retain the desirable wrinkle effect typical of linen type textiles and ‘tropical’ look.
The waist fit is ‘generous’, so if you are an actual 32” waist, get a marked 32 (see below fit pix of stripe hacendado trousers, waist 32, rinsed and hung dry, with extra Pelvis shot 😉
Refer to sizing charts below for approximate measurements:
 Baja  Stripe  Homespun Available RAW/Unwashed.
Waist SIZE 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
(Length after rinsing 34”)
Retail $539.95
Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.
          
Mister Freedom® MFSC “HACENDADO” Sack Coat
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2013
The Hacienda system in Mexico dates back to the Spanish conquistadores of the 16th century. Large estates (up to 25,000 acres at times) were granted to a chosen few hacendados by the Spanish Crown, along with the natives who had lived on it for generations. This inherited unjust structure mostly ended around 1917, after Villa, Carranza and Zapata got the best of most estates, burning and pillaging away during their campaigns. Land was somewhat redistributed to Indians and owners limited to 200 acres, following Zapata’s principle ‘la tierra es para quien la travaja’ (the land belongs to those who work it.)
Most wealthy hacendados lived in the Capital Mexico City, or Paris, and closed their eyes on how the often ruthless administrators ran the estate, fully enforcing their feudal rights on hundreds of peones.
Being well travelled and living the life, the hacendados sported fancy suiting made from imported fabrics. The styles were very much influenced by European tailoring, adapted to local needs, tastes and in typical ‘tropical’ fashion of old Mexico. When annually visiting their estate, high leather gaiters, fancy sombrero or fedora and fine silk neckwear completed the outfits…
As can be seen on period photography of ragtag fighters (see some examples below), a lot of these mismatched sack coats, trousers and waistcoats made it to the ranks of the Revolutionaries, as ‘souvenirs’ of haciendas’ looting. Nothing wrong in looking sharp in front of La Muerte, verda?
    
This is the background for our HACENDADO suiting serie for Spring 2013, again to take like a margarita, with a grain of salt por favor…
We have developed three very different fabrics for this concept, all milled in Japan exclusively for MFSC (see swatches here):
* Stripe: Tan and indigo dyed yarns plain weave pinstripe pattern, a crispy blend of 55% hemp and 45% cotton, 6.8 oz., solid tan selvedge, inspired by a textile swatch from a 1930’s vintage waistcoat.
* Homespun: Natural/earth tones dyed yarns plain weave textile, a heavier blend of 68% hemp and 32% cotton, 11 oz., solid white selvedge, inspired by a turn of the century homespun French textile from a vintage South-West of France farmer blouse.
* Baja Denim: Lighter indigo dyed denim, 2×1 twill, 100% cotton, 6.5 oz., inspired by a specific indigo shade typical of Mexican artisan dyers of the time, selected from several vintage textiles of the area.
Let’s kick it off with the “HACENDADO SACK COAT”.
The pattern is a take on our Faro Sack Coat from the “Men of the Frontier” Fall 2012 Collection, blending early European tailoring/suiting with a touch of American work-wear. The rounded curve of the front panels is typical of some turn of the century coats, and also common on some charro type shorter coats (as sported by the always dapper General Zapata.)
You’ll have the option to mix and match the different fabrics, typical of the period. Wear a three piece set or cleverly pair the hacendado gear with denim jeans or other pieces of your favorite daily pick.
All designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co. Limited edition.
SPECS:
* PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by silhouettes of several late 1800’s and turn of the century wool coats, combined with some American railroad jackets elements.
* FABRICS:
a) ‘Stripe’ option: 6.8 oz selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ (as opposed to a ‘floating’ lining) 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
b) ‘Homespun’ option: 11 oz. selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Front panels lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline (unlined rear panels for this option). Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
c) ‘Baja Denim’ option: 6.5 oz. indigo dyed denim 2×1 twill, solid white selvedge, 100% cotton. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
DETAILS:
* High buttoned front style (five button front).
* Notch lapel, with indigo dyed popeline facing.
* Off set shoulder seams.
* Flat felled seam chain stitch construction. 100% cotton thread.
* One chest and two waist slanted welt pockets.
* Concealed stripe cotton MFSC ticking chest pocket.
* Genuine Corrozo wood buttons, matching tones.
* Adjustable double button sleeve cuffs.
* No exposed seams/ no overlock.
* Original MFSC woven rayon neck ‘hanging loop’ label.
PACKAGING: An original MF® printed denim draw string bag, reusable as a grocery bag, hand-made in our Los Angeles studio.
SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
All three fabric options come RAW (unwashed). We recommend cold soak and line dry, which will result in minimal shrinkage and no color loss. All Hacendado sack coats will ultimately shrink to tagged size. Fuller shrinkage will be obtained with gentle machine cycle and low heat dryer, at your own risks.
The hemp/cotton blends will retain the desirable wrinkle effect typical of linen type textiles and ‘tropical’ look.
 STRIPE option  HOMESPUN option Available RAW/Unwashed.
SIZES
36 (small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (X-Large)
44 (XX-Large)
Retail $739.95
Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.
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