BUY LESS, THINK MORE

Own less, Pay more, THINK (photo credit REUTERS/Andrew Biraj ©2013)

Think.
A deal on every billboard… Offers you can’t refuse on products you don’t need.
Ad campaign from a major apparel retailer? Hundreds of thousands of $.
Monthly paycheck of a garment factory worker in Bangladesh (lowest paid in the World)? $38.00

The death toll rose again yesterday, April 24 2013, because of greed fed by artificially created demand.
Some 228 260 348 530 801 (and counting) workers perished in a multi factory building collapse in Savar, Bangladesh. Some 19 miles from the previous incident in Dhaka we mentioned back in November 2012, claiming the life of 117 workers (mostly women) in a garment factory deadly fire.

Think.
Who really picks up your tab on a clothing bargain? Don’t just buy cheap, it’s not worth it, buy right. Clothes cost money for many reasons. One of them is because real People make them.
Do your research before you purchase anything.

Think.
Don’t buy it and they will stop making it.

THINK, OWN LESS, PAY MORE.

Christophe Loiron

photo credit REUTERS/Andrew Biraj ©2013

“SKIVVY” Shirt (Made in California), Mister Freedom® ‘The Sportsman’ Collection, Spring 2013

 

Mister Freedom® “SKIVVY” Shirt, tubular white Tee, made in USA.
‘The Sportsman’ Collection, Spring 2012

Introducing the MF® “SKIVVY”, a new addition to “The Sportsman” 2013 Collection.

Not long after I watched “Rebel Without a Cause” in the early 80’s did I become partial to wearing plain white cotton Tshirts with a ‘Jim Stark’ fit. Wearing a plain white T was both a neutral statement and a reference to America for me. Little did I know that some 30 years later, i’d be trying to figure out how to make one…
At that time you would pick up a cheap three-pack (‘Fruit of the Loom’ or ‘Hanes’) from the local surplus store. They would last for years and soften up overtime, and eventually retire as wiping rags in the garage.

James Dean as Jim Stark Marlon Brando ©1951 A. Everett McQueen 1966 JFK 1954 (©Smithsonian via AP)

A young John F. Kennedy staring out from his balcony in 1954, U.S. Servicemen at ease, dock workers, U.S. Navy old salts on deck, McQueen on the set of “The Sand Pebbles” in 1966 and other Hollywood icons… Men from all walks of life had sported white Tees.

USN Sailors circa 1943 (MF® private collection) Cookie and Chief circa 1942 (MF® private collection) Deck Gang circa 1943 (MF® private collection) Fishermen 1950's (MF® private collection) Guitar player 1961 (MF® private collection) Basketball on deck circa 1943 (MF® private collection) Cruiser crew 1944 ('At Ease' ©Evan Bachner))

Since the 1930’s, long before Tshirts were used to convey messages and promote businesses, plain ‘T’ shaped shirts had become a standard garment for men, slowly replacing Henley type undershirts. They were also more accepted when worn on the outside than the tank top, its side kick, was.
According to ‘The White T’ book by Alice Harris (Umbra Editions, Inc., 1996, ISBN 0-06-270166-5), the short sleeve white cotton Tshirt, as we know it, was officially adopted by the U.S. Navy in 1913. Followed the Marine Corps during WW2, issuing Marines three white “skivvy shirts”, later in 1944 to be changed to a sage green version, a standard GI issue until about 1958. In 1948, the Army issued the “Quarter Sleeve Undershirt” to all recruits…

The USMC issued undershirts were different in construction from other basic Tshirts. They were half the weight and featured flatlock seams, the inspiration for the MF® “SKIVVY” Tee. See image below of the vintage USMC sage green issue shirt from our archives (Size 1, never worn!)

Vintage USMC shirt (MF® archives)

On our quest to produce a ‘simple’ Mister Freedom® white Tee, we were lucky to have access to 100% cotton tubular 18 single (18/1) jersey, loomed from USA grown cotton and manufactured in California. Tubular jersey has no side seams, like on most vintage Tshirts, which requires specific looms for each size, a bit challenging for small productions.
Unlike most modern Tshirts, the MF® SKIVVY has an ‘old school’ 40’s-50’s silhouette, inspired by a combination of old photos and vintage shirts, often a bit ill-fitting by today’s standards. The 1/4 sleeves are a bit shorter and the body slightly ‘boxier’ than your average contemporary Tshirt, giving the MF® Skivvy that ‘hand-me-down’ intentional feel. The thin neck band is also a nod to early vintage Tshirts.
As always, our shirt is not a replica, just an humble interpretation of a classic piece.
Designed by Mister Freedom® and MADE in CALIFORNIA, USA.

Also, we will soon be offering original MF® graphics past and present (see below for some Tshirt graphics we have done in the past 10 years), all printed in-house by hand, with water-based ink that will age and fade with wash & wear. The fun silkscreening process here.

MF® Tshirt graphics All ©Mister Freedom®

 

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by 1940’s-50’s cotton Tshirts
FABRIC: Unbleached 100% cotton 18/1 tubular jersey, cotton grown and knitted in the USA. Carded open end yarn.
CONSTRUCTION: Combination of flatlock and cover stitch, inspired by 1940’s USMC Government issued ‘skivvies’. Tubular body, no side seams.
STITCHING: Natural color 100% cotton thread, unbleached.
LABELING: Original MF® woven rayon label on neck band, with stamped sizing tab.

SIZING/WASHING: Low-maintenance as a Tshirt should be, just throw in the washer/dryer, cold or hot water, no bleach. The cotton jersey will stretch out with wear and ‘mold’ to your body.
According to your built and silhouette preference you can get your normal size or size down for a slimmer/shorter fit (as often seen in vintage photos.)
I wear Medium (38) on most MFSC garments, but sized down to Small for the MF® Skivvy, just personal preference. I like to slightly ‘pull’ on it to distort and give torque to the tubular jersey.
Refer to sizing chart below for washed/machine dried approximate measurements (measured flat, without pulling/stretching):

Skivvy Shirt Sizing chart ©2013 Mister Freedom®

Available RAW/Unwashed (will shrink to tagged size)
SIZES xS, S, M, L, xL, xxL

Retail SOLID white (plain) $69.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.

Introducing “The SPORTSMAN” Collection, Mister Freedom® MFSC Spring 2013 (1 of 3): SPORTSMAN Shirt

Sportsman Shirts©2013 Mister Freedom®

Sportsman Shirts©2013 Mister Freedom®

“The SPORTSMAN” Collection
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co
Spring 2013

This fine year, 2013, we are introducing a new concept collection, in parallel with our ongoing MFSC collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
‘The SPORTSMAN’ line will not have a specific story with fictitious characters behind it, and will just be about a Mister Freedom® take on beloved classic items we like to wear around here.
The idea is not to re-invent the wheel nor come up with the banana-bending-machine, but rather to put our twist on time tested garments such as chino pants, work shirts, blue jeans, T-shirts, leather jackets…
Style influences and references for ‘The Sportsman’ line will be drawn from the same mixed bag vault of vintage photos, old silhouettes, California, 1940’s-70’s movies, mental pictures and record covers and vintage clothing that have always inspired us.
‘The Sportsman’ line up will basically be about garments you would have found dusty stacks of in pre-1970’s Army/Navy, Western or surplus stores. Things for dudes, with a non-trend approach.

Sportsman collection Spring 2013 Mister Freedom®

We will continue to carry these items at the MF® store all year round and restock when possible.
New pieces will be introduced every season and added to ‘The Sportsman’ catalog.
The fabrics we will use will either be New Old Stock (NOS) from USA/Europe or milled in Japan from vintage swatches from our crowded archives.
We will thrive to have it all ethically made in USA, and not mass produced in China or Bangladesh (we’re still holding those grounds.)
Our friends at Sugar Cane Co will have our back and help out with providing outstanding patterns, trim sourcing and fabric milling.
Quality and value will be what you have come to expect from us, style what you have seen us do for a few years. As with the rest of the things we make, we guarantee that each piece of ‘The Sportsman’ will age nicely with proper wear. We have been told that our products retain market value as well, not a bad thing in this disposable goods market…

We know this is not a revolution in the garment industry, don’t alert the media, but we are still very excited!
Thank you always for the support and for allowing us to design and manufacture wearables we like.

And now, to kick off “The Sportsman” for Spring 2013, let’s start by introducing the SPORTSMAN SHIRT.
Simple design, a non-trendy MF® take on traditional work-meets-casual shirting.

You’ll notice some MF® ‘signature’ details for this shirt, such as original pocketing, double expansion pleats, inside green chain-stitch, traditional woven rayon label…

There are three fabric options this season. One is an old stock, and two were exclusively milled in Japan for us.

Designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by our vintage influences.

FABRIC: Three options:
a) Indigo Popeline: Indigo dyed fine 100% cotton popeline, selvedge. Milled and dyed in Japan to our specs.
b) Chambray: Crispy 100% cotton chambray, white ID selvedge. Milled in Japan to our specs (from a 1940’s textile swatch)
c) Hickory: NOS 100% cotton hickory stripe twill. Origin USA.
DETAILS:
* Made in California, USA.
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original chest inverted box-pleat double pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Full button front.
* Original painted embossed metal buttons, combination solid and MFSC branding.
* White cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke.
* One piece cuff gusset.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich signature.
* Side gussets with selvedge fabric.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
* Traditional front tail sizing ink stamp.

SIZING/WASHING:
This shirt should be pretty low maintenance, but we still recommend gentle cold wash and line dry. As always, wash when dirty, not when you want a nice instant fade.
If you are usually a medium in MFSC shirting, wear a medium in the ‘Sportsman Shirt’. The shirt will shrink to tagged size. Refer to chart below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:

Chambray Sportsman Shirt ©2013 Mister Freedom®

Chambray Sportsman

NOS Hickory Sportsman ©2013 Mister Freedom®

NOS Hickory Sportsman

Indigo Poplin Sportsman Shirt ©2013 Mister Freedom®

Indigo Popeline Sportsman

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½
(Small)
15½
(Medium)
16½
(Large)
17½
(X-Large)
18½
(XX-Large)

RETAIL
a) Indigo popeline $279.95
b) Chambray $279.95
c) Hickory $259.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.

“RANCHERO Shirt” Mister Freedom® MFSC Spring 2013 (“Viva la Revolución” Collection, Part 7/7)

Ranchero Shirts ©2013 Mister Freedom®

“RANCHERO Shirt” Mister Freedom® MFSC
Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2013

Here we go with the final chapter of our ‘Viva la Revolución’ venture for this season.

The Ranchero design is inspired (no breaking news here) by vintage shirting, combined with some MF® signature elements. Inspiration was drawn from old movies, vintage photos and classic silhouettes. We mixed a bit of early work shirts, Indian ‘traditional’ tunics (if you are a casualty of Facebook, make up for wasted time looking at vacation photos of people you don’t know by checking this page), Old West shirting, ethnic garb, European fancy shirts, stirred it all up, and dipped it in the MF® salsa…

Chiricahua Apache 1886 Dobby Loom 1890

The ‘cut away’ collar pattern was inspired by late 1800’s European homemade farmer blouses & early Mexican and Mestizos tops.
We have developed two very different fabrics for the Ranchero:
a)  “Dobby Stripe”: a fine white 100% cotton broadcloth woven with a Dobby loom. This specific fabric was duplicated from a rare vintage piece, the fancy plastron of a 1920’s European Henley shirt (actually the inspiration for the Charro Bib Henley.) It was expertly woven in Japan. The tiny color accents are woven black and navy yarns, and not a print.
b) “Indigo Calico”: a crispy 100% cotton selvedge popeline, indigo dyed to our specific hue, with a discharge AND a ‘madder’ red tiny print, inspired by several vintage swatches from our archives.
On a side note, many seem to have gotten on the ‘Indigo Calico’ bandwagon in the recent years, they can now figure out how to add a color on top. I wrote a bit about the discharge process for a previous shirt we made, the ‘Calico Trade Shirt’. The indigo dyed popeline base for the Ranchero is the same base fabric we used for our indigo Apache ‘Chemise Calico‘ in late 2010.

With an all original MF® pattern and two fabric options, the Ranchero is a pretty versatile shirt that can go dressy or casual, according to what you will match it with.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co under our MFSC collaboration. Limited Edition.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern inspired by vintage early shirting from the Americas and Europe.
FABRIC: Two options
a) “Dobby Stripe”: Fine white 100% cotton broadcloth woven with a dobby loom.
b) “Indigo Calico”: 100% cotton selvedge popeline, indigo dyed, with a discharge and a ‘madder’ red tiny print.
DETAILS:
* ‘Old West’ type silhouette.
* Full button front.
* Double button collar closure.
* Original MF® box pleat single chest pocket and ‘cut away’ collar.
* Cotton indigo popeline button hole placket facing, white cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Rounded front tail and square back tail.
* High stitch count chain stitch flat felled seam construction.
* Selvedge side gusset (self with indigo version and indigo popeline on Dobby stripe option)
* Sheared wrist cuffs.
* Double front and back shoulder yoke expansion pleats, a MF® signature.
* Painted embossed metal buttons, 1930’s workwear type.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.

SIZING/WASHING:
This is not a tight fitting shirt, unlike our original Utility chambray from the “Naval Clothing Tailor” days for instance. Wear a medium if you are a medium in mfsc though.
Both fabric come raw/unwashed, and will shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an original cold wash on gentle cycle, minimal eco-friendly detergent and line dry.

Sizing Chart coming soon

Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large

Retail
a) White $399.95
b) Indigo $399.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.

“CHARRO BIB Henley”, Mister Freedom® MFSC Spring 2013 (“Viva la Revolución” Collection, Part 6/7)

Charro Bib ©2013 Mister Freedom®

“CHARRO Bib Henley” by Mister Freedom® MFSC
Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012

‘Henley’ type shirts seem to have their origin in the town of Henley-on-Thames, England. Pull over, open neck with button placket, they were worn by local Rowing team members.
Fast-forwarding a bit…

Before T-shirts were introduced (not sure about the date, i think it was a Tuesday though), button placket pull over cotton knit undershirts were a common layer of a man’s outfit in Europe, both for civilian and military use. These were used as undershirts, not intended to be worn as an outer layer. In the ‘old days’, showing your undershirt in public would have been a faux-pas, today’s equivalent to wearing your pajamas on a date, a rhinestone logo T-shirt on the street… all the way to exposing underpants label to the unfortunate ones walking behind. But I’m diverging.

The most common henleys are usually made of a solid cotton knit jersey body, with a matching button placket (at times replaced or lined with a popeline/sateen placket.)
The inspiration for our Charro Bib Henley was drawn from several unusual vintage 1920’s European Henley type shirts from our archives. These had the traditional jersey knit body but also a front plastron made of fancy shirting fabric, and a band collar with studs for attaching a removable collar of the same fancy fabric. They were the ‘poor man’ fancy shirt, as they required less costly fabric to manufacture (a solid cotton knit jersey being a cheaper fabric than a woven jacquard calico printed textile for example.) When wearing a waistcoat and a coat on top, the norm, no-one knew you were ‘missing’ the sleeves and most of the body…

With that story in mind, we tweaked the design a bit, and created two different versions of the Charro Bib Henley.
a) White 18/single (referring to the weight) tubular (loopwheel) cotton knit jersey body, with a white ‘Dobby Stripe’ woven jacquard calico printed plastron (some NOS from our previous Chemise Fantaisie).
b) Deep indigo dyed 18/single cotton knit jersey body (with side seams), with an indigo dyed discharge calico printed cotton popeline. We were happy to discover some NOS yardage from our previous Chemise Calico aka the ‘Johnny Depp‘ shirt. This is how this fabric will fade over time.
All above textiles milled/dyed/printed in Japan.

Our charro bib can be worn as a regular shirt, or an undershirt for a layering look.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co under our MFSC collaboration. Limited Edition.

SPECS:
* PATTERN: An original mfsc pattern, inspired by 1920’s vintage European Henleys.
* FABRICS: Two options
a) White 18/single tubular (loopwheel) cotton knit jersey body, with a white woven jacquard calico printed plastron.
b) Deep indigo dyed 18/single cotton knit jersey body (with side seams), with an indigo dyed discharge calico printed cotton popeline.

DETAILS:
* 18/single 100% cotton jersey body
* Fancy popeline/jacquard plastron
* Band collar
* Three button front closure, 30’s work-wear style metal painted buttons.
* Tonal cotton popeline shirting style cuffs.
* Underarm gusset piece.
* Half moon back neck reinforcement piece.
* Original mfsc woven rayon ‘hanging loop’ style label.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.

SIZING/WASHING:
Hand wash only, cold water, gentle cycle, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
With the indigo dyed version, some minimal bleeding is expected and normal (bleeding will wash off eventually.)
Wear a medium if you are generally a medium in Mister Freedom® mfsc shirts.

Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large

Retail
a) White $149.95
b) Indigo $159.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.