Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 “Frontier Duck”, 100% cotton canvas, Rust brown & Dark navy.
SS2023 & FW2023 mfsc Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.
We’ve issued the Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN in a plethora of premium fabrics through the years.
Since its 2010 introduction, our original classic five-pocket jeans pattern has been released in a wide range of NOS traditional indigo selvedge denims, eclectic premium Japanese fabrics such as double indigo twill, “Midnight” denim, Bedford cord Pique , corduroy, Jungle cloth, and cotton sateen.
For this iteration, we decided to give the CALIFORNIAN Lot64 an old school cotton canvas treatment, a nod to 1960s-70s brown duck 200Z Lee® Riders. For the denim collector, there was a fair amount of Lee® NOS floating around in the vintage world in the early 1990s, easily recognizable by the iconic yellow “boot and bucking bronco” Lee® paper flasher and desirable black/gold waistband label. I remember scoring a few stacks of those canvas specimen in old western wear stores at the time, and also sporting a pair.
For this project, we wanted domestic fabric and went out to source some nice and dry 12 Oz. cotton “Frontier” duck yardage, milled by Mt Vernon Mills in Georgia, USA.
We opted for two color options. A rusty brown similar to our Lee® brown duck jeans source of inspiration – also typical of classic Carhartt workwear – and a deep dark navy blue. For those considering a farmhand tuxedo, please note that the CALIFORNIAN rusty brown “Frontier” duck fabric is of a different dye lot from the “Frontier” Ranch Blouse NOS Duck.
This canvas duck fabric is woven on wide looms, resulting in unfinished edges, i.e. non selvedge. Therefore, as with the Californian Jungle cloth issue, the leg outseams of the pants are finished with overlock, another classic 1970s Lee® jeans trait.
We kept our MF® classic contrast orange/yellow combo stitching for the brown duck, and went tonal for the navy.
As often with our domestic production, we are using older NOS (New-Old-Stock, aka “Dead Stock”) fabric for the pocket bags. Not only as a “vintage aesthetics” choice, but in an effort to always use-up all yardage we have in stock.
Discarding left-over material is common practice in our overproducing fashion industry, an obvious waste of virgin raw material and resources, and pretty much an insult to our species’ intelligence at this point! We can do better.
Valuable and painstakingly-milled unused and uncut fabric yardage, let alone recently-manufactured clothes, should definitely not end up in landfills, nor in smoke.
The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 jeans, “Frontier Duck Canvas” edition, are designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT64 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slightly tapered leg for a 50s-60s vibe.
FABRIC:
Dry 100% cotton “Frontier” duck canvas, 12 Oz., milled by Mt Vernon Mills, Georgia, USA.
Two color options, rusty brown and deep dark navy.
Pocket bags:
Brown canvas option: NOS 100% cotton navy blue twill with woven white pinstripe.
Navy canvas option: NOS 100% cotton fancy Dobby stripe weave, grayish/blue stripe on off-white background (left-over yardage from the production of the MF® Aristocrat Shirt.)
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded metal cast tack buttons, “oxidized” silver color.
* Non-selvedge overlocked leg outseam.
* Fancy NOS fabric 100% cotton pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket, natural veg-tan cowhide for rusty brown canvas version, black tea-core veg-tan cowhide for navy canvas version.
* Contrast stitching on brown canvas version. Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange. Tonal stitching (black) on navy canvas version.
* Riveted coin pocket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bartack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (royal blue).
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT64 Frontier Duck Canvas jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Machine spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
The canvas Californians are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
I opted for a W30 in these (5’7 ~142 Lbs.), for a fit silhouette, and went un-hemmed and un-cuffed for “sloppy” period stacking.
The size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your jeans to fit.
Please refer to size chart, reflecting rinsed measurements.
CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning the jeans inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Potential attractive patina may develop according to one’s activities, and frequency of wear/wash.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
 
Mister Freedom® Terrence Sweater, 100% 2-Ply Cashmere.
mfsc FW2022 Hooper collection.
Made in Japan.
I am not a “collector” of anything tangible, but I have to confess a bit of an addiction to vintage cashmere sweaters.
Comes sweater season, knowing that racks will be filled with fresh stock of woolens, I can’t help raiding my local vintage stores to snag up what is actually old and fits me. Done that for years, so I do admit owning enough 50s-70s vintage specimen – in all colors and knit patterns, crew necks, V-necks, turtlenecks – to last me several lifetimes at this point!
I actually do wear them all, and often, so I don’t feel that much of a dodo just hoarding them as moth food. Being allergic to wool, cashmere keeps me cosy in the winter, cool for most of the rest of the year in Southern California, and is a perfect light-weight traveling companion. Also, a good cashmere sweater never goes out of style, and always feels like a cuddle!
For anyone in the market for affordable cashmere, I recommend sourcing from used clothing stores and flea markets.
Fast-fashion labor-cost-cutting specialists and massive landfill contributors Shein, H&M and the likes may offer cashmere sweaters for less than a $100 (with zero transparency and usually disposable), but one can definitely score perfect pre-owned luxury specimens (with zero carbon footprint the second time around) from vintage stores for a mere third of that.
When considering buying a brand new cashmere garment, one needs to do so responsibly. Tantalizing low retail prices flashed by fast-fashion outlets have recently ramped-up demand of raw material, with, as always, an impact on the whole manufacturing chain. Heard about masstige? (must read 2014 article from the Guardian on the subject!)
According to the BBC via this article, nomadic herders of cashmere goats make for about 40% of Mongolia’s scarce population, a country that supplied 20% of the global demand for raw cashmere fibers in 2020.
To paraphrase, cashmere goats are known for overgrazing, causing desertification, and loss of grassland means lower cashmere fiber output per goat. Wholesale goat hair prices fall due to fast fashion’s new dictate on market prices. Shortchanged herdsmen take up slack by buying more goats… and there you have it: an unsustainable environmental goat rodeo.
Takeaway from all that? 100% cashmere is and should stay a luxury fabric, and cannot (shouldn’t?) be cheap. Not in an elitist sense, but for the fact that if one is not paying the price at retail level, someone certainly is along the production process.
A quality cashmere sweater should be considered as an investment. If well cared-for and properly stored, cashmere is known to last a lifetime. Besides considering brand transparency, provenance (not just “imported”), proper garment pedigree, cost-per-wear should also play in making a wise decision.
With this caveat emptor in place, now on with this new Mister Freedom® TERRENCE fella!
Considering the fact that the fine insulating undercoat fibers of the Capra Circus Laniger average 19 microns in diameter – human hair is about 100 microns – it is fair to claim that the cashmere goat hair used in the knitting of our Mister Freedom® TERRENCE sweater is finer than frog hair.
This article, amongst many others on the interwebs, dives into what defines cashmere in the garment industry, along with other considerations.
As mentioned, I’m a seasoned vintage cashmere sweater hunter, but the pickier I get about only selecting the right one (proper period fit, cut, proportions, knit, ply, quality, condition etc), the trickier the sourcing gets. Kind of a wild goose chase. I know there are great traditional cashmere knitwear brands out there, producing fine sweaters, but I never had an urge to invest in a brand new one, as the cut/fit always feels too contemporary for me.
So, for similar reasons as to why our basic Mister Freedom® undershirts exist today (the USA-made Skivvies and Stanleys Ts were conceived as an alternative to having to endless scour thrift stores for used and wearable tubular knit undershirts that fit like old school Hanes or Fruit of the Loom), we decided to come up with our own old-school cashmere sweater!
With the help of our Sugar Cane Co partners, we sourced our cashmere yarns from “FUKAKI Woollen Textile Co“, one of the most reputable source in Japan, a mill founded in 1887, specialized in spinning and knitting cashmere since 1931, a member of the CCMI, Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, and ISO 14001 certified.
Side note, we could have slashed costs considerably by going the China route for this project (watched Death By China?), but stuck to our MF® guns and commitment to solely manufacture in Japan and USA.
With a full vertically-integrated operation in Japan, Fukaki imports some of the finest raw white cashmere fibers from Inner Mongolia – white fibers being the most expensive compared to grey or brown, as they can be dyed – sourced from ethical producers/jobbers.
A team of Japanese textile experts then sorts, selects, grades, dyes, and spins the yarns, using unique manufacturing methods, knitting some of the most reputable cashmere sweaters in today’s fashion industry.
After a loooong journey of trying to ramp up our knowledge on technical cashmere manufacturing, actual production R&D, crucial decision-making on design and fabric in the midst of supply chain challenges and a pandemic, multiple sample making, constructive criticism, … , we eventually had the MF® TERRENCE figured out!
We opted for 2-ply cashmere (meaning two twisted yarns make one strand), settled on NM 2/26 (where NM is Metric Number, 2 being the ply, and 26 the length divided by the weight of the cashmere yarn, defining its fineness, the higher the number the finer, 26 being a classic magic number for warmth, minimal piling, and longevity of the garment, to the best of my knowledge), and high gauge knit (how tightly-knit and dense the fabric is, measured by the number of vertical rows per square inch, I believe 12 in our case.)
The resulting cashmere fabric of our TERRENCE feels chunky yet breathable, tightly knit with pretty good mechanical stretch recovery, and soft to the touch as Joe’s show hair! (“show hair” is a term coined by our dear friend Jillian)
For the type of knit, we wanted something more textured and “special” than plain knit, so we went with cable knit, specifically a classic “Twisted Twin Cable” pattern, with “Chunky Rib Stitch” cuffs and waistband pattern combo. All that inspired by a 1960s vintage specimen from my stash, sporting a “BRAININ of Bond St… Made in Scotland” label.
We chose V-neck for the collar pattern, with a classic depth that worked for our esthetics, not too deep, not too shallow, chef kiss.
The major MF® twist is in the cut and fit of our sweater. We wanted a “vintage” silhouette that would set apart the TERRENCE from his contemporaries: slightly shorter body complimenting one’s natural waist and classic rise trousers, long foldable 40s-50s style sleeve cuffs, and old school 4 inch-wide waistband.
Longer torsos and thin waistbands being the norm for modern contemporary sweaters, our baby is quite unique in its style class, and has definitely quelled my personal quest for hunting down the perfect vintage specimen!
Color wise, it was hard to settle on the right palette, but we eventually opted for classic black, “Yale” blue, and “Ice Blu” (a nod to our Ice Blu denim.)
A beautiful gold color was also part of our first choice, but was unfortunately unavailable at the time of production.
Lastly, the “Terrence” moniker is a reference to a famous Hollywood actor who sure liked his V-neck sweaters, on and off screen. His simple and timeless style is often an inspiration for us, as relevant then as now.
The MF® TERRENCE Sweater, 100% 2-Ply Cashmere, is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan from a well-established reliable source, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by classic and timeless vintage V-Neck wool sweaters, 50s-60s casual styles with period fits and silhouettes.
FABRIC:
Luxurious 100% 2-ply Mongolian Cashmere, fine NM 2/26 yarn, sustainable sourcing.
Available in three classic colors: black, “Yale” blue, and “Ice Blu”.
DETAILS:
* Original pattern inspired by vintage classic cashmere sweaters and timeless period fashion.
* Old school 50s-60s silhouette.
* Luxurious 100% 2-ply Mongolian Cashmere, fine NM 2/26 yarn, sustainably sourced.
* Raw white wool material processed/dyed/knit in Japan.
* High 12 gauge knit.
* Classic depth V-neck style with ribbed stitch collar roll.
* “Chunky Rib Stitch” long foldable cuffs & wide waistband.
* Classic “Twisted Twin Cable” knit pattern.
* Panel knitting construction.
* Original mfsc woven rayon label.
* Crafted in Japan by a reputable source member of the CCMI.
* Produced in limited quantities.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® TERRENCE cashmere sweater comes ready-to-wear, it does not need any pre-soaking shrinking routine before wear.
At 5’7 ~145 Lbs, I opted for a MEDIUM, for an old school silhouette.
Please remember that the specific proportions and “vintage fit” of this original garment are part of its design and DNA. Our TERRENCE features a slightly shorter body (pairing well with classic high to mid-rise pants), wide ribbed cuffs and wide ribbed waistband (typical period details of 1940s-50s vintage specimen), setting it apart from the modern design twist of the vast majority of contemporary mens sweaters.
CARE:
Hand wash only, every 5 to 10 wears, according to one’s activities, and layering choices.
When laundering is needed :
* Soak in cold water for ~30mn, using biodegradable woolen mild detergent. Some use baby shampoo, Dirty Labs (USA), Eucalan (Canada), The Laundress (USA) etc…
* Hand agitate to loosen dirt, gently moving the sweater around.
* Gently squeeze sweater, fill sink with fresh cold water, rinse.
* Gently squeeze sweater again (do not wring!), lay sweater on clean white towel, flat surface (do not hang!)
* Let air dry, gently fluffing and flipping garment occasionally if necessary.
We do not recommend dry-cleaning as the harsh process tends to break the fine and fragile cashmere natural fibers.
At the end of your sweater season, properly launder your TERRENCE before storing it in a moth-proof environment (sealed bag/plastic bin) with natural herbal scents (cedar blocks/lavender bags etc.)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
Mister Freedom® “NOUVELLE VAGUE” Slacks, NOS cotton-linen crosshatch denim.
mfsc SS2023 “Sportsman” catalog.
Made in USA.
We are introducing a new trouser pattern with these swinging Mister Freedom® “NOUVELLE VAGUE” slacks.
Inspired by an unusual pair of vintage late 50s/early 60s French casual cotton twill pants from our archives – probably tailor-made according to the simple seam construction, and the fact that they bore no branding – we revisited the design to merge the vibes of dressy slacks and denim jeans.
The frogmouth front pockets, single rear flap pocket, extended tab waistband with snap closure, narrow belt loops, choice of fabrics and unpretentious suiting vibe all blend together to give the trousers a “French Riviera” casual 1950s-60s fashion flair.
We kept the overlock inseam/outseam/seat construction of the vintage custom-made original, for easy fit alterations with a single-needle machine. See the original twill pants below, with a bit of the R&D process.
The term “Nouvelle Vague” (French for “new wave”) is a reference to avant-garde French art cinema popular at the time. Not for everyone, but it had a worldwide impact on film-making and acting.
“Nouvelle Vague” is also the title of a cool 1959 French pop song, a cover of the Coasters’ “Three Cool Cats“. Dig it!
The style of our NV slacks is a nod to classic early 60s looks sported by the likes of Jean-Paul Belmondo in “A Bout De Souffle” (1960), or – the original silver screen Tom Ripley – Alain Delon in “Plein Soleil” (1960), etc…
For this initial release, the trousers are cut from an old mfsc fabric favorite, the elegant NOS crosshatch denim twill (cotton-linen blend 60/40, 8 Oz., milled in Italy) we had scored a while back in two distinct shades of grey, charcoal and slate.
“Crosshatch” refers to the slubby grey warp & natural weft yarns of this twill, which will tend to develop a more pronounced crisscross fading pattern than other denims.
The slacks are quite versatile and can easily handle from a simple T all the way to a fancy shirt.
For a casual suiting vibe, consider pairing them with their matching Continental Sportcoats, slate grey and charcoal grey twills. A matching vest is even available for the Thomas Crown in you, and mis-matching always a cool option.
Side note, the slim belt loops will accommodate 1¼ wide belts, and we are working on a Mister Freedom® x VEB Leather collab!
The MF® Nouvelle Vague slacks, NOS crosshatch denim twill edition, are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by 1950s-60s French casual trousers fashion, merging aesthetics of dressy slacks and denim jeans.
FABRIC:
New Old Stock (NOS) crosshatch denim twill, 60% cotton – 40% linen blend, 8 Oz., milled in Italy.
Available in two color options, slate grey and charcoal grey.
Pocketing: Lightweight NOS woven stripe fabric, navy stripes on white background.
DETAILS:
* Vintage French 1950s-60s fashion, casual yet elegant sportswear vibe.
* Straight leg period silhouette.
* “Frogmouth” front pockets.
* Button fly, corrozo wood buttons.
* Extended tab waistband with snap waist closure, with original MF® branded brass snap button.
* Single rear welt pocket with buttoned flap.
* Slim belt loops, will accommodate 1¼ wide belts.
* Fancy woven stripe pocketing.
* Flat front & darted rear panel for an attractive top block profile.
* Overlock inseam/outseam/seat construction.
* Tonal stitching.
* Tailor shop-style unfinished overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing your VEB belt.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Nouvelle Vague slacks come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing the garment:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
These trousers are considered true-to-size, with somewhat of a generous waist.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
At 5’7 ~145 Lbs, I opted for a W31 in the Nouvelle Vague, for a very comfortable straight leg silhouette and somewhat fitted top block.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your pants to fit. Please refer to our size chart and our way of measuring pants.
For the leg bottom, I went with a DIY blind (hand) stitch 1¼ inch hem.
Make sure you fully rinse the garment before you commit to cropping the leg to your cuffing preference. Style-wise, we recommend hemming and not “roll-up” cuffing.
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE when needed, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Refrain from using the “heavy-duty” cycle setting on your home washer. Using a heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
Evolution:
Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE “Randall”, natural veg-tan cowhide leather
&
CAMPUS BLOUSE “MD”, 16 Oz. “Midnight” denim.
Made in USA
 Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, new & worn (~3 months + 1 full wash)  “Who, moi?”  Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, worn ~3 months + 1 full wash. 
 Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, new & worn (~8 months + 3 washes)  Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, new & worn (~8 months + 3 washes)  Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, new & worn (~8 months + 3 washes)  Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, new & worn (~8 months + 3 washes) Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 OG23, NOS Cone Mills 12.75 Oz. organic selvedge denim.
mfsc SS2023 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
The MF® Californian LOT64 OG23 blue jeans, “NOS Cone Mills organic denim” edition, are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT64 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slightly tapered leg for a 50s-60s vibe.
FABRIC:
New Old Stock (NOS) Cone Mills organic denim, 12.75 Oz., white/indigo stripe selvedge ID.
Pocketing: Fancy NOS dobby stripe woven fabric, subtle combo of grayish blue and gold stripes on an off-white background, 100% cotton. Probable Italian mill origin.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded ‘silver’ tack buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Selvedge ID is actual indigo!
* Fancy NOS fabric pocketing.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will patinate with age.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (brown).
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT64 OG23 blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Machine spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases, then hang until fully dry.
These Lot64 OG23 are considered true-to-size, with somewhat of a generous fit.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
I (5’7 ~145 Lbs.) opted for a W31 in these, for a very comfortable silhouette, and went un-hemmed and un-cuffed for “sloppy” period stacking for a change.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to size chart.
CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Please note that dark indigo might cause color transfer, and potentially “bleed” on light-colored garments, furniture, and skin. This indigo color “crocking” is temporary.
Potential attractive patina will develop according to one’s activities, and frequency of wear/wash.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
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