Mister Freedom® original cowhide leather “STRONGMAN CUFF”
Inspired by turn of the Century carnival imagery, brawlers, loading dock workers and drudges, here is our take on what served the purpose of keeping your wrist protected while heavy lifting. Those cuffs were often matched with a kidney belt.
In the style of early traveling dentists’ advertising claims, besides instantly winning or earning you “fame, hearts, elections, bouts and the lottery“, they should make lifting that mouse off that pad a breeze 😉
We used high grade American veg-tan natural cowhide, equestrian quality NOS alloy steel roller buckles, hand set brass rivets, and an original MF® die cut one piece pattern.
The debossed MF® branding is concealed under the wrap around strap and doesn’t show when worn. Three holes on the double straps allow adjustment to your own wrist size. They might feel a bit tight and stiff at first, but when worn on a daily basis, the leather slightly stretches and ‘molds’ to your wrist. You will also get a nice natural patina with normal use and rubbing (no problems to wash your hands with it, just remove when sleeping, or in the shower.)
I wear mine with the buckles on the wrist outside, with the double straps on top, but you will figure out what works for you.
There are two veg-tan leather options: NATURAL (untreated) and BLACK (hand surface-dyed, not dipped, aka tea-core).
As with the rest of our products, we do not offer “aged” versions of those cuffs. Be a good sport, we did half the work, you do the rest 😉
Hand made in California, US of A.
Available RAW/untreated.
One size fits most.
Retail: $129.95
Call (323) 653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
Much obliged for your support.
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Canvas RANGE VEST
Moving right along with the “Men of the Frontier” Spring 2012 collection updates, here is our third installment, the canvas “RANGE VEST”.
I like vests. Whether part of a 3 piece suit or as a mismatch piece, you soon appreciate the extra pockets and extra layer. Vests are very practical additions to daily outfits.
Since I am not a big fan of hunting vest (they look too ‘hunting’ to me) I wanted a mix of outdoor ruggedness and Gentleman’s tailor-made garb; so no rear ‘game pocket’ here. By mixing outdoor and indoor, open range and saloon, combining canvas fabric/metal donut buttons hardware/wrap pockets with traditional satin belted back panel and a slender cut, we made a waistcoat that takes from both worlds.
Inspired by the pattern of a vintage 1930’s French outdoor vest found a while back, we made the Range Vest in the same fabric options than our Chaparral Blouse: Cotton-linen canvas in Brown and Indigo dyed.
By the way, the silly dude ranch fit pix (I’m wearing a size 38), as always, are not to be taken too seriously; they are just here for the kick. A DenimBro compañero has mentioned that we picked the wrong cactus (thanks Mr. Randal. No, not Josh, Mark) Of course, it is was no news to you that the Euphorbia Ammak in the photos background is of Western Saudi Arabia origin, nowhere close to the American Frontier 😉
But I’m rambling, here are the…
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by both the open range and early saloon imagery. Cowhand meets Faro dealer.
FABRIC: The Range Vest comes in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches, both options are inspired by rare turn of the century French workwear textiles from our archives.
a) MFSC Brown Canvas: A blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton selvedge canvas, 12.5 Oz., in a “cachou“/ brown Duck color.
b) MFSC Indigo Canvas: A blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton selvedge canvas, 8 Oz., Indigo dyed.
DETAILS:
* Original multiple patch pocketing, six options to store your silver dollars.
* slender silhouette.
* 100% cotton sateen back panel with cinching belt (beige for the brown canvas and black for the Indigo canvas.)
* Gun metal color donut button front and pocket closures.
* Original rayon woven MFSC labeling on inside bottom of the button placket.
* No open seams or visible overlock.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the RANGE VEST comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both canvas options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles. The Indigo canvas shrinks ‘faster’ than the Duck canvas. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the indigo dye, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO canvas option Range Vest. You WILL get some color rubbing if you wear a light color shirt under it, or light color jacket over it. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash.
Sizing chart with raw and rinsed measurements coming soon.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Limited edition.
Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes:
36 (small)
38 (medium)
40 (large)
42 (X-large)
44 (XX-large)
Retail: $ 429.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.comto get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Much obliged for your support, Compañeros 😉
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Calico Trade Shirt
You have a second? Let’s look into the amazing A.C. Wroman photograph annotated “Volz’s store. Oraibi, 1901” posted last week. The store featured was located in the center of the largest Moki village of that reservation.
Mr. Volz, trader and guide, had also opened one about thirty miles away from the railway (and the UPS dude thinks he has it tough now).
As seen in that scene, a large variety of fancy calico printed fabric was available by the yard in trading posts and dry goods stores. Even in the most remote location, locals (or, more accurately in this photograph, “relocated” individuals) could come and pick a few yards of bold color cotton calico to make the family clothes. The young woman with her son is considering a large flower printed cloth, under the shopkeepers’ enigmatic stares.
Bartering jewelry, blankets, pottery or baskets for those ready-made fabrics was an alternative to relying on the traditional century old tasks of hand spinning yarns and hand weaving to clothe one-self. The traders would in turn sell the Natives’ crafts to travelers or collectors.
According to period photographs of the early 1900’s, it appears that calico printed ‘homemade’ shirts were a well spread non-traditional garment for many Native Indians. Since the 1800’s those fabrics had been imported from Europe and widely used and reused by the pioneers and homesteaders (see “Calico Chronicles”, Betty J. Mills, 1985.)
One can speculate that adopting some “white man’s” textiles was a small step towards reluctant integration amongst some Indian Natives… This other Wroman photograph, annotated “Hopi Towns, men of Sichimovi, 1901”, shows Hopi men wearing a wide variety of homemade shirts made from assorted imported shirting fabrics, calico and stripes.
All this rambling, of course, stays my subjective interpretation of what really happened a century ago.
On a much lighter note, these are the background premises of our MFSC “Calico Trade Shirt” this spring. From our collected archives of many dozens of early American calico swatches and garments, we have selected two that we freely called “Apache” and “Pueblo”.
Our shirting fabric base is an Indigo dyed 4.5 Oz fine all cotton broadcloth and we used a discharge print technique. These fabrics were exclusively milled and printed in Japan for this MFSC collection. The shirts are a European pull-over type, collar less with chin strap extension. We used rare and authentic 1920’s New Old Stock ox bone buttons we happily found, in limited quantities, buttons of Portuguese origin.
I am not a big fan of untucked shirts, as a personal preference, but those look also good that way, notably for our lady friends. I am, however, a huge fan of early indigo calico fabrics and finding an actual 1900’s surviving men’s shirt shares it’s odds with the discovery of a hen’s tooth, in a hay stack.
So, in or out, I’m now happy wearing mine.
Some folks might think that a “polka dot” shirt is not “manly” enough in 2012, but it sure was in 1912. And, in years to come, I wouldn’t be surprised seeing calico shirts as popular amongst discerning gents as blue work chambrays have become. I’m just sayin’
And now, the…
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1900′s~30′s pull-over shirting, with its origins in Europe before becoming a popular Old West garb feature.
FABRIC: 100% Cotton broadcloth, 4.5 Oz., dark Indigo dyed and discharge printed. Milled, dyed and printed in Japan. Two options: “Apache” calico print (tiny sun looking prints) and “pueblo” calico print (reminiscent of pueblos architecture)
This is NOT a cheap navy blue print on a white fabric. By the time a Trade Shirt reaches us, many people have been involved in its making, none of them residing in China:
* Our natural broadcloth was dipped many times in an indigo vat to reach the desired shade of dark indigo.
* A special paste wasapplied to the dyed fabric with a screen of the Apache or pueblo print.
* The discharge process is finalized by way of steaming, the paste ‘bleaches out’ the fabric. The face of the fabric looks different than the inside because of the inconsistency of the ‘bleed through’ effect.
* Then the shirts go to the long and tedious cut/sew production period…
* After some airborne time, we get them delivered here, caught red handed killing time playing Nintendo (I actually mispelled this last word originaly, Nitendo…)
DETAILS:
* Early homesteader, reminiscent of early non-traditional Indian Native style/silhouette
* Stand collar with chin strap
* Back panel and cuffs shearing.
* Real 1920’s ox bone NOS buttons.
* Button placket facing with contrast white all cotton muslin fabric.
* Original rayon woven MFSC labeling on bottom of the button placket, reminiscent of early European Henley type undershirt label placement.
* Flat felled chain-stitch seams and single needle machine construction.
* Side gussets, European construction.
* 100% cotton ivory color high count stitching.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the blouse comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING: The trade shirt comes RAW, unwashed, and will shrink very minimally with cold wash and hang dry (the indigo dying process has technically taken care of the shrinkage)
I recommend minimal detergent (such as Woolite for dark or equivalent), in order to keep the rich indigo color longer.
See chart below for raw and rinsed/line dry measurements
DISCLAIMER: As with ALL indigo dyed garments, color bleeding and rubbing is expected and unavoidable. Arms and body or white undershirts and skivvies WILL turn blue (no Smurf panic here, it all washes off easily). Wearing a white tuxedo jacket with the trade shirt WOULD leave the jacket lining and underarms with indigo color rubbing. But you know better than to wear a white tux with it anyhow.
The color rubbing will minimize after several washing/wearing cycles, until it eventually stops.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Limited edition.
Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes:
14 ½ (Small)
15 ½ (Medium)
16 ½ (Large)
17 ½ (X-Large)
18 ½ (XX-Large)
Retail: $ 359.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Much obliged for your support, pardners 😉
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: The CHAPARRAL BLOUSE
Because most tailors/sewers/garment suppliers had a European background in the early days of the American Frontier, and because a lot of the fabrics used were imported from the old Country, this collection combines both American and European elements. Stitching techniques, textiles, styles, patterns and inspiration were drawn from both Worlds, a reflection of the coexistence of both cultures at the time.
You will notice, as we unveil each item, that you don’t need to live out on the range, be called Tex and pack a six-shooter to pull of our “Men of the Frontier” garb. It was not designed for re-enacting 3:10 to Yuma, but to mix with what you feel appropriate. I personally like to mix it with stuff from previous MF® collections, such as shirting and trousers from our 1900’s “Apache” French hoodlums.
After introducing the new concept for Spring 2012 last week, here is the first installment: the CHAPARRAL BLOUSE.
Inspired by 1920’s~30’s vintage jackets, styles and silhouettes, we combined elements, left the wheel as is but slapped our own hub caps on it. This jacket was born from an original sketch, many old photographs and memories.
Since I got you already yawning, here are the specs:
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1920’s~30’s sport type light jackets, leather A-1 type coats, early Chimayo jackets etc…
FABRIC: The Chaparral comes in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches, both options are inspired by rare turn of the century French workwear textiles from our archives.
a) MFSC Brown Canvas: A blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton selvedge canvas, 12.5 Oz., in a “cachou“/ brown Duck color.
b) MFSC Indigo Canvas: A blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton selvedge canvas, 8 Oz., Indigo dyed.
DETAILS:
* 1920’s~30’s silhouette
* Original A-1 type round collar (yes Sir, we like)
* Back darting and expansion gusset, 1930’s style.
* Horsehide leather side and cuff cinch straps (with vintage NOS French metal slide buckles) and leather pocket trimming and leather detachable chin-strap.
* Corozo wood buttons, tonal.
* Lightweight and un-lined withNO exposed/overlocked seams on the inside (that was some task…)
* Flat felled seams and single needle machine construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the blouse comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both canvas options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles. The Indigo canvas shrinks ‘faster’ than the Duck canvas. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
DO NOT BOIL those canvas blouses, as the leather would NOT like it. The leather can take a full heat drying cycle for several minutes though (check to see what’s happening once in a while.)
Refrain from using soap also, unless you HAVE spent the summer on horseback up the Chisholm trail. This will guarantee an amazing fade and patina overtime.
Click on the sizing chart bellow for approx RAW (Brown) and rinsed/hang dry (Brown and Indigo) measurements:
FIT: I am usually a Medium (38 ) in MFSC jackets, and wear a Medium (38) Indigo blouse in the silly shots above. It has just been rinsed and hung dry once, still has some shrinkage in it. I just started wearing it, and will see .
As far as my brown canvas version, I have worn it for a few months, washed/machine dried it several times (again, it takes ‘longer’, meaning more cycles, for that option to fully shrink and stabilize)
Garment designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured by Sugar Cane Co, under our MFSC collaboration label.
Limited Edition.
Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes: 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail: $629.95
Call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support.
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Spring 2012: “MEN of the FRONTIER” Trading Post
For about two centuries, somewhere between the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean, stretched a line moving westbound at a rate of 50 to 100 miles per generation.
It was known as the “Frontier”, an explosive powder mix of guns, recent immigrants, Native Indians, European explorers, pioneers and early Spaniard settlers.
Whether these rugged men adapted to the Land, fought their way West, traded, enforced or dodged the Law, preached new religions… none of them would remain the same after their experience on the Frontier of this wild territory they now had to share. This previously occupied Land, we now call the United States of America, would also never be the same. The Men of the Frontier eventually reached California and by the late 19th century America had, what felt like, as rich of a History and as diverse of a cultural background as the Old World had.
The “Frontier Thesis”, written in 1893 by F.J. Turner, and later to become a controversial text, elaborated on the fact that “American identity occurred precisely at the juncture between the civilization of settlement and the savagery of wilderness”. As every generation moved further West, each member became more American, severing from its European roots of the East.
Focusing on a style perspective by studying period photographs (as often, reality is stranger than fiction, as seen in some of the shots above), one can see an eclectic mix of imported fancy fabrics (in what could be imagined as bold colors), homespun local textiles, indigoes, calicoes… With the need for sturdy and practical garments, designs from traditional European gentlemen’ tailoring were adapted and modified. Rules were broken and new patents applied for.
By the early 1900’s, sack coats were replacing tail coats; ‘ditto suits’ found more practical and affordable than dandy garb; canvas and denim chosen over moleskine, it’s European counterpart, as the workwear fabric of choice; bright calico printed cotton fabrics favored by native Indians facing the inevitable integration and bartered from the white man’s Trading Post; fringes on buckskin jacket sleeves added as an easy way to fence off flies when riding horses… and so on. All that contributing to the creation of a new “American Style”, with elements still very well present today.
It is through digging those roots that Mister Freedom® new collaboration with Sugar Cane Co found inspiration for the “MEN of THE FRONTIER” MFSC Spring 2012 Collection. The resulting garments are not replicas, not Tom Mix recreated outfits, not Santa Fe tourist T-shirts, but a combination of imported European fabric styles and detailing, adapted patterns and silhouettes from the late 1800’s up to the 1930’s.
Although inspired by the early American Frontier days, we stayed away from the Hollywood clichés of the “Cowboys and Indians”, as interpreted by early movie studio costumers. Instead, freely incorporating American/Native Indian/Mexican/European elements, we milled original fabrics and designed garments that could plausibly have existed, but stay our own humble addition to today’s attires for discerning gents.
The following dry goods will be our Mister Freedom® Trading Post offerings of the season:
* The “Blouse Chaparral”, “Britches Chaparral” and “Range Vest”: Indigo and duck cotton linen canvas.
* The “Prairie Shirt”: Indigo selvedge light denim and madder calico printed cotton.
* The “Gun Slinger Jumper” and “Gun Slinger Pantaloons”: Indigo and Sand color selvedge denim twill.
* The “Trade Shirt”: Two Indigo calico discharge prints, “Apache” and “Pueblo”.
* Accessories, such as leather MF® ‘Strongman’ leather cuffs, MF® scarves…
Thank you for tuning in Folks, I reckon I need to lie down after this one,
😉
Christophe Loiron
Photo credits (to the best of my knowledge):
* The works of A.C. Wroman 1895-1905
* “Saloons Bars & Cigar Stores”, 1999, by Roger E. Kislingbury
* The works of Henry Madison Wantland
* The works of F. Jay Haynes
* Public Domain
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