Mister Freedom® vintage fabrics “Cotton Sack Coats”

MF® Cotton Sack Coat wall rig1

We have cooked up a little something for our California hot summer… 😎
With vintage New Old Stock fabrics from our archives that we have limited yardage of, we have run a small production batch of “Cotton Sack Coats”.
The pattern is an updated version of our “Bourgeron Biribi”, with rounder front panels and collar.
Those jackets are a cross over between cotton blazer, French work jacket and early sack coats. They are on the “shorter side” in body length and look great layered, with a vest…

The buttons we used vary, according to the fabrics (and our mood.)
Some are NOS ox-bone buttons, from a 1930’s batch found in France, some vintage metal buttons, old  salvaged corozo buttons etc…
All single needle machine construction, 100% cotton thread, french seams (no dreadful overlock), selvedge button facing panel.

Fabrics options are many, not all featured on the photos. Selvedge cotton chambrays, twills, calicoes, indigoes, woven stripes, plain weave, coutil… all mostly of French origin 1920’s~1950’s. Those rare NOS textile limited yardages can now enjoy a second life, away from their dusty storage shelf and out in the real World 😉

All the coats are cold rinsed (or fully washed when needed) and dried. Sizing is a bit ‘fluctuating’, as shrinkage is out of control when using that many fabrics and one pattern. But we size stamped the garments after shrinkage, so fit is somewhat consistent with what we usually do.

Designed and made in CALIFORNIA, USA.

Available rinsed (or washed). Preshrunk
Sizes:
34
(for ze ladies)
36
38
40
42

Retail: from $359.95 to $449.95 (prices vary according to fabric rarity/what they cost us/availability)

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship almost everywhere internationally.
Thank you for your support.

Mister Freedom® MFSC Fall/Winter 2012 teaser

MFSC Fall 2012 Swatch Board

Just got back from Tokyo where we showed our Fall 2012 “Men of the Frontier” Collection…

Above is a little Swatch Board teaser of the fabrics we will be using: Some exclusively milled in Japan for MFSC, some NOS american denim, some recycled vintage textiles and NOS hardware…
And still no spandex 😯
Again not an easy route, corner cutting or trend following collection, but if we may say so ourselves… we don’t hate it 😉
And, like Ol’ Blue Eyes, we did it our way.

You will ultimately be the judge when it is released in the US, around September 2012. It will be manufactured both in Japan and California, USA, while y’all enjoyin’ fun days at the beach.

This collection will consist of the following MFSC® Original items:
* the DROVER Blouse
* the FARO Sack Coat
* the FARO Waistcoat
* the Britches CHAPARRAL
* the RENO Shirt
* the RANCH HAND Shirt
* the BUCKAROOS Waist Overalls
* the FRONTIER Chinos

Thank you to all the attendees & participants, to the Toyo Enterprises hard working team and friends for a successful and busy show.
And many thanks to all of you for your continued support.

Mister Freedom® MFSC spring 2012 (Part 7of7): “Gunslinger Denim Jumper”

Tom Gunslinger Jumper

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Gunslinger Denim Jumper, Indigo twill & Desert twill

Here is our seventh and final installment of this season journey, the denim “GUNSLINGER JUMPER”.
Borrowing again from both the American West and the Old World, we have put together elements of work-wear jackets, early sack coats and forgotten silhouettes.
This design borrows from our MF® Bourgeron Biribi we have been making in-house in very limited runs, using 1920’s~30’s new-old-stock textiles.  We haven’t specifically documented those, so there are no photos of all the rare fabrics we have used.  But locals who visit the store might see some ‘specimens’ on our racks, before they get snagged by design teams for inspiration…

For the MFSC production of the Gunslinger Jumper, we had two different denim twill exclusively woven in Japan, both inspired by vintage swatches from our archives. One indigo denim with indigo back, and one white back unbleached natural denim. Both were milled in limited quantities. Those fabrics are the same we used this season for the Gunslinger Pantaloons.
They are also made in Sunny California, our beautiful State.

Hat courtesy of our friends Nico and Gregory at WESTBROOK MAKER , talented purveyors of head accoutrements and fine sombreros from Venice, California.

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MF® pattern, inspired by both the New and the Old World, mixing elements from European work wear and early American unlined cotton coats. Sack coat meets work coat.
FABRIC: The Gunslinger Jumper comes in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches.
a) MFSC Indigo denim twill: Dark Indigo warp x dark Indigo weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.4 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. A very rich dark indigo color, with purple hues, in and out.
b) MFSC Desert denim twill: Natural warp x White weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.8 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. This is not your typical off white twill. This fabric has a lot of texture, character, ring and slub.
DETAILS:
* Selvedged button placket facing, lower pocket hem and cuff facing.
* Round “A-1” type collar.
* Inner chest concealed pocket.
* Gun metal color donut button front.
* Cinch back strap. NOS metal sharp prong buckle (we have sadly run out of our stock of these, so this is one of the last time we use them for production)
* Flat felled seam construction with tonal 100% cotton thread.
* MFSC woven rayon labeling concealed inside left front patch pocket.
* Our trademark “Z stitch” sizing sail cloth patch.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the Jumper comes in an old school cardboard box with original MF artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both denim options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles. The Jumper will shrink to the tagged size.
The Desert denim (natural) shrinks ‘faster’ than the Indigo denim. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
Do not just wash your indigo gunslinger jumper in hope of getting instant patina, wear it instead.
DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the double indigo dyed yarn, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO denim twill, on BOTH sides of the fabric. You WILL get some color rubbing on other garments and body. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash, and overtime, your jumper will get an amazing patina inside AND out.

See sizing chart below for raw and rinsed measurements (garments were cold soaked for about 20mn, no agitation, spin cycle then line dried)

Gunslinger Jumper sizing chart

Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC).

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes: 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail: $439.95

Call the HQ at (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship almost everywhere internationally. Thank you mucho for your support 😉

Mister Freedom® “Ranch Blouse” in Yucca Valley

MF® Ranch Blouse Tina Back

Impromptu full on ‘tourists at the dude ranch’ photo session in Yucca Valley, a few hours from LA, from a couple of weeks ago. Couldn’t help snapping a few, the scenery was very pretty and inspiring.
I ♥ America.
Warm thanks again to Clea and Mary Ann for the hospitality and friendship, and to Tina for sporting my dirty jacket 😉

In the photos, the Ranch Blouse , Calico Trade Shirt and Speedway Piqué Jeans.

Mister Freedom® MFSC spring 2012 (Part 6): “Prairie Shirt” Denim & Calico

Let them see you and not the suit

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Prairie Shirt, cotton denim & Calico.

Here is the latest addition to our Men of the Frontier spring 2012 collection: The PRAIRIE SHIRT, in two different fabric options, selvedge denim and calico printed broadcloth.
Inspired by 1930’s American shirting and mixing several elements of vintage samples from our archives, here is another versatile shirt for discerning gents. This is our first new “white back denim” shirt since our sought after Liberty Issue CPO from a few seasons back, that will ring a bell with the ol’ timers.
The madder calico version taps into our yen for early American printed shirting fabrics. Our little homemade Calico scrapbook was again pretty handy…
For the shirt pattern, we incorporated detailing from early western shirts and gentleman wear, again trying to stay clear from clichés and reproductions.
Now we here just make the clothes, it’s up to you to make ‘em look good. Like the Man said: “Let them see you, and not the suit”

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1930’s American shirting. The fit is similar to our “Apache” Chemise Calico, a bit roomier because of the back expansion gusset and shearing.
FABRIC: The Prairie shirt comes in two very different fabric options, both milled in Japan for MFSC.
a) Light weight selvedge dark indigo denim, 7.5 Oz.
b) All cotton broadcloth selvedge fabric, 4.5 Oz., printed with a tiny calico turn of the Century inspired pattern, madder red on natural. The reverse of the fabric appears ‘white’ because of the limited ‘bleed through’ effect of the specific intricate printing process.
DETAILS:
* Collar band facing with indigo dyed popeline.
* Front closure with metal Diamond type DOT snaps.
* Collar, cuffs and pocket closures with original 1920’s New Old Stock ox bone buttons.
* Original MFSC chest flap single pocket
* European type selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded back tail and front overlapping panels.
* Original MFSC woven label on lower tucked-in front panel. The rayon label is stamped with the size.
* Original middle back panel expansion gusset.
* White cotton popeline button placket facing.
* Back panel and cuff shearing.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching, high count.
* Flat felled seam construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the PRAIRIE SHIRT comes in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
The shirt comes UNWASHED, the material is raw, so shrinkage is expected.
The measurements in the sizing chart below are done before and after a cold soak and line dry, resulting in very minimal shrinkage.

Prairie Shirt Sizing Chart

Calico: The calico option can be washed on delicate and machine dried and is pretty much “low maintenance”.
Denim: For those of you who value the appearance, goodness and wholesome appeal of RAW denim (ie. denim NOT chemically processed by a highly polluting distressing industrial wash factory, as most denim Industry companies offer to the un-savvy consumer. But you didn’t hear this from me…), we recommend a home cold soak and line dry. You won’t get full shrinkage at first, but wearing the shirt this way in the early stage (with the starch still in the fabric) will overtime guarantee a fade and patina similar to an old WW2 USN barrack bag…
As always, we do not recommend HOT soaking, as this alters the dark denim color.

DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the dark indigo denim, bleeding is expected. You will get some (washable) color rubbing when the shirt is paired with a white undershirt. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash. Please use minimal mild AND environment friendly detergent.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Limited edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes:
13 ½
(X-Small)
14 ½
(Small)
15 ½ (Medium)
16 ½ (Large)
17 ½ (X-Large)
18 ½ (XX-Large)
Retail: $ 359.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship almost everywhere internationally.
Gracias for your support, Amigos.