Les Apaches, Fall 2011 MFSC Collection, Part 3: Le PALETOT Apache
The term paletot is French old school slang to describe a coat or jacket. There are stories of wise guys stitching razor blades to the back of their paletot lapels: pretty dettering for someone wanting to grab you by the collar after a game of biribi gone wrong… (cf. “tomber sur le pal’tot“)
Our MFSC paletot is inspired by early French garb, work coats, outdoor jackets…
Two colors of moleskine “Peau de Diable” options, and one in indigo métisse twill.
SPECS:
PATTERN: All original MFSC pattern and fit.
FABRIC: Three options
a) BLACK moleskine: Heavy 100% cotton moleskine, the French choice of workwear and outdoor washable fabric since the 1800’s. Moleskine is a tightly woven twill, with a napped surface. The close weave makes this fabric almost windproof, warm, insulating and very durable. It performs much better than denim does, but is very expensive to mill. Our 100% cotton moleskine is milled in Japan, to the specs of a 1900s swatch from our archives.
b) CREAM moleskine
c) INDIGO métisse cotton twill: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This option is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
This option is also EXCLUSIVE to Mister Freedom® Los Angeles location and not available in Japan.
LINING: Full body lining with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking. Arms lining with lightweight all cotton MFSC stripe ticking.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s.)
DETAILS:
* Leather dart pocket corners
* Three front flap pockets, with NOS Bedford cord pocket bags.
* Hidden chest pocket
* Cinch back strap, with french NOS sharp prong metal buckle.
* Throat latch
* Slanted button holes
* All cotton thread tonal stitching, french seams, no overlock/open seams inside and out.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops of the Fall 2011 Collection.
Please recycle those boxes, they can be used for home storage of small items.
WASHING: All three options come RAW/unwashed.
Hand wash with care (or very gentle wash cycle), cold water, no dryer. Wash the black moleskine option inside/out to avoid marbeling.
Use no soap/detergent with the indigo métisse, and hand wash only when really needed, to maximize the beauty of natural fading.
SIZING & SHRINKAGE:
LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
The Indigo Métisse option is EXCLUSIVE to Mister Freedom® Los Angeles location and not available in Japan.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S (92), M (97), L (102), XL (107), XXL (112)
Retail $749.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
Thank you for your support.
It’s been an avalanche of goodies lately. Our second installment of Fall 2011 Apaches Collection just arrived from Japan… Following the arrival of our Gilet Métisse, here are some britches to go with it. The Pantalon Peau de Diable, our first cotton moleskine trousers.
The pattern is very similar to our Spring 2011 Pantalon Ouvrier, inspired by late 1800’s/early 1900’s French military bourgerons pants, early work trousers and fine tailored European britches. The silhouette is reminiscent of turn of the Century imagery, slimmer type “pantaloon” fit, narrower legs and slightly higher rise.
The french term Peau de Diable (Devil’s Skin) is a reference to an old label found on a vintage moleskine garment, manufactured in the 1920’s in Villefranche, France. Doesn’t get any better than that!
SPECS:
PATTERN: All original MFSC pattern and fit.
FABRIC: Heavy 100% cotton moleskine, the French choice of workwear and outdoor washable fabric since the 1800’s. Moleskine is a tightly woven twill, with a napped surface. The close weave makes this fabric almost windproof, warm, insulating and very durable. It performs much better than denim does, but is very expensive to mill. It is still used in France for specific workwear garments, but is now almost only available in cotton/polyester (I said the P word…)
Our 100% cotton moleskine is milled in Japan, to the specs of a 1900s swatch from our archives.
COLOUR: Two options, BLACK and CREAM
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900′s to 1940′s). “MFSC déposé” engraved buttons combination.
SUSPENDERS: The trousers come with matching fabric removable suspenders, inspired by overalls straps. (Suspenders are not pictured)
HARDWARE: NOS original French sharp prong buckle back.
POCKETING: Two front slash pockets, one watch pocket, two back slash pockets secured by button ‘dart flap’.
Pocket lining is sturdy indigo stripe selvedge ticking, same fabric we used for our Pantalon Ouvrier Indigo Rayure
BACK GUSSET: Contrast indigo stripe selvedge ticking.
CONSTRUCTION: 100 % cotton tonal thread, high count stitching. No overlock/open seams.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
Please recycle those boxes, they can be used for home storage of small items.
WASHING: Our trousers come RAW/unwashed, and will shrink lightly with washing/drying.
For the BLACK version, it is important to wash this garment INSIDE OUT, gentle cycle, to avoid unnatural marbling effect. We recommend an initial cold pre-soak and hang dry.
SIZING & SHRINKAGE: The trousers are labeled and marked in French.
We measured the trousers with the back gusset fully open. A fully close gusset (with maximun back strap cinching) reduces the waist by about 1 and half inch all around. (I am usually between a w31~32, but i am wearing a W30 in those)
Sizing Chart Coming soon.
LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Retail $599.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Thank you for your renewed support 😉
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NOS Chambray Sizing Chart
The first installment of Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR” Collection is in: N.O.S. (New Old Stock) Chambray shirt
This Sportswear collection is all MADE in USA, an humble effort to keep factories busy at home, and to spend hard earned $ locally…
We chose NOS (New Old Stock, aka dead stock) fabrics for a lot of the items, selected from our collected stock of American vintage selvedged textiles. Not the easiest approach to manufacturing, since factories dread small batches, eclectic instructions, mixed fabric width and time consuming specific cut/sew…
We took the risks of the high road, and hope some will appreciate the efforts.
Imagery behind this collection is California mid 50’s to 60’s, from ranches, orange groves to Pacific shores. From off stage gear of the Hollywood cool cats, to Hipsters and Beats garb. Revisited MF® style.
SPECS
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slim fit.
FABRICS: Four options of NOS all cotton slubby chambray and one NOS stripe twill (i’ll spare you the color fancy naming game)
a)Blue cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
b) Black cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
c)Red cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
d) Green cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
e)Indigo/white stripe cotton selvedge twill, about 6 oz.
FACING: NOS blue cotton popeline, selvedge (used for collar band, button placket and gussets)
DETAILS:
* Two MF® original chest flap pocket pattern (I-thank you Mr. Jobs-phone fits perfectly in right pocket, and won’t fly out when closed)
* Elbow reinforcement
* Double needle chainstitch felled seam construction
* 100 % cotton thread stitching
BUTTONS: Original MFSC metal painted buttons. Combination of solid and “MFSC” debossed buttons.
LABELING: MFSC printed cloth inside label. Lower front panel stitched on paper flasher (Tear off before washing or wearing, do not remove stitching, it is supposed to stay there)
SHRINKAGE: To avoid confusion and surprises, all shirts are WASHED and hung dry (no dryer, to keep the light startchy crispy effect). So the initial shrinkage of the 100% cotton fabrics is taken care of.
We didn’t pre-wash the fabrics before cut/sew to preserve the ropping/twisting cherished effects, but felt like -unlike denim items- a shirt gets washed often and should be low maintenance.
SIZING:
Due to ‘out of control’ shrinkage of the older fabrics and several batches of assorted rolls, variations have occured within the different colour options. (If you are familiar with our sizing fits, you will probably need to size up in the Blue Chambray… see chart below)
NOS Chambray Sizing Chart Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, Manufactured in California. Limited edition.
Available WASHED only
Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL
Retail $199.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
We thank you again for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.
As we mentionned on twitter, Mister Freedom® has its own in-house INDIGO VAT 😉
I’ve been wanting a vat for the longest time and all it took was a bit of research and trial by error… Not willing to compete with centuries of experienced indigo dyeing from the Old World, but just wanted to crack the magic of the process.
So off we go: Very small batches of garments are coming out, with that fascinating color I never get tired of looking at. Different shades, according to number of dips, textile, ‘health’ of the vat, winds and moods.
It’s done about the same way folks used to over-dye garments in the back of the house 100 years ago.
Each piece comes out unique, irregular… but all indigo blue!
We have hand dyed a limited batch of vintage New Old Stock Henleys, three buttons, all cotton, 3/4 sleeves, 1940’s~50’s Swiss Government military issue (the Swiss know their Henleys…)
Different manufacturers/contracts/specs/knit, found dead stock in a military surplus warehouse.
After the hand dyeing process, we re-labelled the shirt to stamp the vat date.
The core of the cotton yarn is still of the original natural color, the indigo color on the outer surface of the fiber. The shirts will fade with repeat washing and wear.
They have been cold washed with gentle detergent, but some indigo bleeding might still occur.
Available WASHED and pre-shrunk
Sizes Assorted (because of the nature of the cotton knitt, the shirts stretch and are difficult to measure. We will ‘guess’ sizes from S to L). They look good tight and stretched out, as an undershirt should fit.
Retail $149.95
Call the store at (323) 653-2014 or Email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally
Our first MFSC Apaches Fall delivery is in!
If you’ve missed the Spring pitch, here it is again (if you know it by heart, skip the skit and scroll down for the low down on the SPECS)
The Paris of the Belle Époque (1900s) saw the emergence of a certain type of street outcasts. They lived in secret dens in the seedy and dimmed outskirts of the City of Lights, abhorred honest labor, hunted the Faubourgs and Quartier de Halles, and danced in local Guinguettes and dives, decked out in flamboyant outfits.
They were called Les Apaches…
Issued from the French lower working class, with a lack of education and absence of Future, they regrouped in loosely organized neighborhood gangs. Abiding by their own hoodlum code of honor, they woke up late, spoke the obscure slang Jare, and wore specific flashy clothes. Their dandy accoutrement combined with intimidating attitudes imposed both respect and fear from the Parisians and their police.
For 30 years, Paris’ Apaches gangs marked their territories by terrorizing honest bourgeois citizens, committing petty larceny, pimping and street fighting their lives away. For those who had ducked the knife and the bullet that bared their name or the ravage of the “Grande Guerre” (WW1), it was the inevitable outcome of Biribi or the Bagne de Cayenne.
In the 1920’s one a many high society dame was spotted mingling with charismatic Apache groups in local Java dance halls, letting her hair down in a famous Dance Apache, immortalized later by Hollywood (“Charlie Chan in Paris”, 1935) and several Broadway Shows. The French movie Casque d’Or (1953) relates a true story of a famous Apache event that took place in 1905.
Bourgeois newspapers of the period and universal fascination with the underworld turned the reign of the Apaches into a mix of myth and imagery that will forever mark the Paris of the 1900s to 1930s…
MFSC Fall 2011, APACHES Collection: Gilet de Ville métisse
SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting.
FABRIC: INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This fabric is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
LINING: Fully lined with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking.
BACK PANEL: Original MFSC lightweight black moleskine, all cotton, 5 oz.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button front.
DETAILS:
* Limited Edition.
* Four front slash pockets
* Two inside concealed chest flap pockets.
* Traditional darted back piece, with cinch back belt. Original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER: Will scratch car seats, sofas etc…) The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs (a “safer” metal buckle, used for the Japanese production, will be found in one of the pockets.)
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: The gilet comes RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
92 (small) Chest about 18 1/2” across, after rinse/dry.
97 (medium) Chest about 20” across, after rinse/dry.
102 (large) Chest about 21” across, after rinse/dry.
107 (X-Large) Chest about 22” across, after rinse/dry.
Some not-so-serious fit pix here
 Gilet Métisse Sizing Chart Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Retail $439.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
We thank you again for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.
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