Mister Freedom® “COWBOY” jacket, Selvedge Pique Edition, mfsc SS2019 Sportsman catalog, Made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® “COWBOY” Jacket, Selvedge Piqué Edition.
SS2019 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

Piqué (pee-kay), a “woven fabric with cords (wales) running warpwise”, is sometimes referred to as Bedford Cord.

Piqué jeans with matching jackets became popular with young adults in the early 1960’s, as a casual alternative to blue denim, with Levi’s® leading the trend with its 911 series released in a palette of subtle colors.
“Color jeans”, of assorted woven patterns and from several makers, made their way to American campuses, city streets and film sets. Lee Riders® was popular for its sateen “Westerner” models, Levi’s® for its pique and twills, and Wrangler® for its twill and light blue denim versions. Style icons like Steve McQueen or Paul Newman adopted their own favorites on and off screen, unwillingly promoting the style, contributing to its cool easygoing sixties fashion vibe today.

Our 100% cotton 12.05 Oz. piqué fabric features fine raised vertical cords on the face, with a contrasting waffle-like texture on the reverse. We are releasing it in two distinct color options: natural ‘wheat’ and a specific shade of ’vintage’ sage green. On close inspection, the wheat version features attractive minuscule brown flakes, as the yarn is unbleached.

The Mister Freedom® “Cowboy” jacket pattern is our twist on the classic 1960’s trucker-style jacket, and was initially introduced to our Sportsman Catalog sometime in 2015. The “Cowboy” is available in a traditional dark indigo NOS Cone mills 12.5 Oz denim twill, a beautiful lighter indigo “Malibu Sea” 14 Oz. selvedge denim milled in Japan, a NOS wheat color Cone Mills 12.5 Oz selvedge denim, a black-coated denim, and a special “Rodeo” edition.

The mfsc COWBOY Jacket Piqué Edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% cotton 12.05 Oz. piqué fabric, selvedge, milled in Japan.
Two color options:
a) Sage green
b) Wheat (unbleached natural color)

DETAILS:
* Fairly trim silhouette, sixties vibe.
* Original MF® slanted flap chest pockets.
* Original MF® cast brass tack buttons.
* MF® tonal “M” stitching on pockets.
* Fabric selvedge displayed on front panel fold.
* NOS woven stripe fabric accents on pocket flap facing.
* Buttoned cinch-waist side tabs.
* Copper rivet reinforcements backed by leather washers for pockets and sleeve placket.
* Double MF® labeling: Early workwear style printed cloth “Buckaroo” mfsc neck label and woven original “Yucatán” inner waistband label.
* 100% coton tonal stitching, with red chainstitch accent on the inside.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The Piqué Cowboy Jacket comes UN-WASHED (i.e. raw/loomstate) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.

Please note that some light color bleeding might be expected from the light brown leather washers after the initial soak, resulting in some faint color transfer visible on the wheat version. This will subside with subsequent wash cycles.

We recommend our usual method for raw cotton garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.

As I did with all previous versions of the MF® Cowboy Jacket, I opted to size down to a Small (36) in this SS2019 Piqué edition. I am usually in between sizes (36 and 38) and went for the slimmer/shorter silhouette for this jacket. Note that unlike most denim fabrics, this piqué fabric will not stretch with wear.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

MF® Cowboy Jacket Pique, Size 36 (rinsed/line dry)

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

NOTE: Some light color bleeding might be expected from the light brown leather washers after the initial soak or first washes, resulting in some color transfer visible on the wheat version. This will subside with subsequent wash cycles. Do not use bleach, as this will ruin your jacket, nor use hot water, as that might fix the color transfer permanently.

Available RAW/unwashed.
Sage green or Wheat.
SIZES:
X-Small (34)
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2019

Wheat Jeans, Ranch Blouse and Speedways, Mister Freedom® Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2014

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014 Ranch Blouse

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014 Speedways

Ranch Blouse & Speedways: Piqué Bedford Cord
“The Sportsman” mfsc Spring 2014

 

Piqué fabrics are woven on dobby looms giving the finished textile its small geometrical repeat pattern designs.
The French word piqué refers to needle work, as in quilting.

Clouseau

Yes, yes. So it iz be-lieved

One of my favorite of the piqué family as always been the “Bedford Cord”, thought to have originated in New Bedford, Massachusetts, during the golden age of its textile industry, counting some 70 mills around 1920. 18 are still operating today.
Bedford cord fabric is characterized by vertical woven ridges on the face, and tiny ‘beehive’ pattern on the reverse.

In the late 1950’s off-white relaxed fit slacks made their way to the Ivy League scene, often featuring cinch-back or side straps.
By the mid-1960’s, slim light colored jeans had become quite popular with young adults, as often displayed in the ranks of 18 to 24 year-old recruits getting schooled in the Art of War before heading out to Vietnam.

Jim Vestal 1966 Jim Vestal 1966

On campuses, ‘Wheat jeans’ on the slim side had then out-fashioned the slightly darker and wider cut khaki chinos in the heart of many preps.
In Hollywood, the usual suspects seem to have adopted the ‘wheat jeans’ style early on, whether in five-pocket cuts, twills, cords or sateen, ‘Sta-Prest’ styles or chino patterns…
Our man James ‘Flint’ Coburn swore by them, on and off screen it seems. McQueen favored a clean ‘Sansabelt’ type, with concealed snap waist tab, part of the inspiration behind our Speedways jeans.
Most brands went full throttle on the craze, suggesting the matching jacket and pants, as in period HD Lee or Levi’s ads.

Bruce Lee Coburn 1961 Ferrari Dean-Martin-James-Coburn-Murderers-Row 1966 McQueen William Claxton Sansabelt FAKE ad Newman Mark Kauffman 1967 Lee Westerner 1959

After a fierce meetings at Mister Freedom®, we unanimously decided the matching wheat jacket/pants thing was not necessarily a good idea this year either.
So we immediately added the Ranch Blouse and Speedways piqué set to the Sportsman catalog for Spring 2014.

As introduced with our Uncle Sam issue, the piqué Ranch Blouse features the embossed MF® brass buttons, replacing our previous ‘silver’ type.
The modified version of our original 2011 Speedway Jeans and ‘wheat’ Ranch Blouse come in a new Bedford cord fabric. The color we selected for this 10 Oz. Sportsman Edition piqué is slightly warmer (slightly more beige) than our original Speedway piqué ( slightly more grey). They still both appear off-white, referred to as ‘wheat’ by 1960’s marketing departments.

On Style: The boldest will have no fear in the challenging statement of the mighty Leisure Suit when worn as a set, but we do suggest self-control with the wheat-on-wheat sandwich. In most situations, mixing might be a better option. Although wheat jeans are easier to incorporate in one’s wardrobe than is commonly thought, they remain an ‘acquired taste’, so don’t force yourself if you don’t feel it.
We never recommend buying garments you won’t wear, nor do we guarantee success around the pool with purchase.

Derek Flint 1966

Wheat jeans, Derek Flint approved since 1966. Results may vary.

The Ranch Blouse and Sportsman Speedways are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

RANCH BLOUSE, Piqué Bedford Cord Edition


PATTERN:
 An original mfsc pattern, influenced by early denim ‘trucker’ type jackets.

FABRIC: 10 Oz. off-white Piqué Bedford Cord, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Under collar and under pocket flap lining: New Old Stock woven plaid fabric, blue/red check, 100% cotton.

DETAILS:
* Modified collar pattern.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Original MF® lower chest pocketing, tonal “M” stitching.
* Pleated front with MF® original ‘dart’ stitching.
* NOS woven plaid collar/pocket flap facing.
* Brass cast MF® branded rivet buttons.
* Buckle back, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer back.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Printed cotton label (from our Buckaroos.)
* Made in USA

SIZING/WASHING:
Although only offered un-washed the piqué fabric takes its full beauty after the first rinse/dry cycle. It gains in texture,  with a nice crispy vintage feel. We recommend an original gentle cycle in cold water, and machine tumble dry. If the ensuing wrinkles bother you don’t let them.
WARNING: Some slight ‘crocking’ (color transfer) might happen during the first few washes, from the leather washers of the copper rivets, making somewhat of a ‘rust’ stain on the off-white piqué fabric. This is not permanent and will fade after further washing/drying cycles. DO NOT BOIL, as in the simple equation: (leather) + (boiling water) = soup.

For reasons familiar only to those well versed in crystal ball reading, our piqué Ranch Blouse fits a bit larger than the previous Lot.64 Ranch Blouse. JD and I went for a tight 36 in the piqué but wear a 38 in the denim Lot.64 version.
If you are in between sizes we recommend sizing down. If you do not like the shorter/cropped look of old trucker denim jackets however, staying with the same size will work as well.

Please refer to chart below for measurements.

Ranch Blouse Pique Mister Freedom

Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Sizes
34
 X-small
36
 Small
38
 Medium
40
 Large
42
 X-Large
Retail $359.95

 

SPORTSMAN SPEEDWAY, Piqué Bedford Cord

 

PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slimmer silhouette (not skinny though)

FABRIC: 10 Oz. off-white Piqué Bedford Cord, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Extended tab waist band, double concealed snaps.
* No belt loops.
* Functional cinch back strap to adjust waist (up to 2 inches adjustment.)
* Lapseam chainstitch leg construction, both outside and inside seams.
* New Old Stock pocket bags: 100% cotton stripe blue/white twill.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* “M” stitched back pockets.
* Inside waistband Sportsman woven label.
* Selvedge tape red/white/blue tab on waistband.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Made in USA.

SIZING & SHRINKAGE:
Although only offered un-washed the piqué fabric takes its full beauty after the first rinse/dry cycle. It gains in texture,  with a nice crispy vintage feel. We recommend an original gentle cycle in cold water, and line dry for a crispy vintage feel.
WARNING: Please note that some light crocking (bluish color transfer) will occur during the first wash cycles, due to the blue color of the striped pocket bags NOS fabric. This will fade with further washes and is not permanent. Using an electric/gas dryer instead of line-dry will increase the crocking slightly.

Minimal waist shrinkage with this pique fabric, shrinks mostly in length (about one inch)
I am a W32 in the Californian Lot.64 Blue Jeans and wear a Waist 32 in the Speedway, a bit cinched in the back to accommodate my girly figure. Both fits are somewhat similar.
The bottom hems are not chain-stitched, making shortening the jeans an easy alteration with a single needle machine. Measuring it right to your liking being the most challenging task.
My  personal preference tends towards a slight ‘high water’/flood look.

Please refer to chart below for measurements.

Speedway Pique

Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Tagged Sizes

W28 × L33
W29 x L33
W30 × L33
W31 × L33
W32 × L33
W33 x L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L33
W38 × L33
Retail $279.95

Available soon from www.misterfreedom.com

Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support 🙂