Mister Freedom® BERKELEY Shirt, Revisited Button-Up Pattern.
NOS Indigo Dobby Stripe edition.
SS2023 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
This edition is a full button-up version of our classic button-down collar BERKELEY Shirt pattern, an early 1960s-inspired garment with a vintage preppy vibe, a nod to 1960s American campuses attire, California old-school collegial wear and casual Ivy-League style. The moniker is a reference to UC Berkeley, and its rich history.
Several versions (in short-sleeve or long-sleeve) of our BERKELEY are available in the Mister Freedom® USA-made “Sportsman” catalog, a pattern introduced with the original 2018 Bleeding Madras S/S edition.
Followed a string of timeless classics, produced in limited runs:
* NOS indigo/white hickory stripe L/S
* NOS brown “Cacao” chambray L/S
* NOS traditional navy/white plaid Madras L/S
* NOS “Krazy” Madras S/S
* NOS Albini Italian linen red/blue woven checks S/S
* NOS Albini Italian white/blue woven stripe L/S
For this release, we tweaked the BERKELEY’s pull-over pattern into a full open-front style, aka button-up pattern.
The fabric we opted for — scored in a Downtown LA jobber warehouse — is one of the most unusual textile we’ve worked with! A very peculiar New Old Stock indigo Dobby Stripe with amazing texture, pattern, and incredible slub, origin unknown. The fabric is reminiscent of a specific family of antique hand-loomed Japanese textiles, for those familiar with our vintage boro selection at LA HQ.
Very temperamental and challenging to cut/sew — production was a tour de force for the local factory — this beautiful fabric takes all its vintage appeal and uniqueness after the shirt is first rinsed.
Just be ready: the indigo color will pop, texture intensify, ribbed woven pattern subtly oscillate, seams/stitching pucker, panels organically torque, …, turning the BERKELEY into an incredible AREA 7161 wall hanger!
This shirt was, however, designed and intended to be worn, so do take it out around town, and enjoy compliments from random strangers.
The BERKELEY is an easy-to-wear garment with a classic menswear style vibe, to be paired with your favorite jeans, NV slacks, Sportsman chinos or bermudas…
The MF® BERKELEY shirt is designed and made in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage 1960’s Ivy League style, and American campuses attire with a period preppy vibe. This edited pattern is a full button-up version of our original pull-over Berkeley Shirts.
FABRIC:
Vintage New Old Stock indigo Dobby Stripe, dry hand 100% cotton, attractive woven pattern with unusual slubby horizontal ribs, textured and breathable, origin unknown.
DETAILS:
* Full button-up open front revised pattern.
* Long sleeve edition.
* Classic 1960s button-down collar.
* Indigo-dyed corozo wood “Cat-Eyes” buttons.
* Two inverted-pleat chest pockets.
* Side gussets.
* Tailored-style sleeve setting.
* High count 100% cotton stitching.
* Chain-stitch caballo construction, featuring “Sportsman” green thread accent on inside.
* MF® woven “Sportsman” rayon label.
* Designed and made in USA from New Old Stock fabric.
SIZING/FIT:
The BERKELEY Shirt, indigo Dobby stripe edition, comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this straight-forward easy protocol:
- Rinse in cold water, machine setting on delicate, full cycle.
- Line dry, no heat dryer.
At 5’7 ~145 lbs, I opted for a SMALL for a trim fit, classic 1960s silhouette, personal preference. We recommend getting your usual size in MF® shirts, or size up for a more relaxed cut.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate soaked/rinsed measurements, and reach out to sales@misterfredom.com for further sizing advise.
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024
Mister Freedom® “BERKELEY” Pull-over Shirt.
New Old Stock Italian linen.
SS2019 mfsc “The SPORTSMAN” catalog.
Made in USA.
The MF® “Berkeley” is a no-frills, pull-over type shirt with a vintage preppy vibe, a nod to 1960’s American campuses attire, California old-school collegial wear and casual Ivy-League style. The moniker is a reference to UC Berkeley, and its rich history.
Introduced during Spring 2018 and initially released in two “bleeding madras“ options, the MF® “BERKELEY” shirt pattern is part of our on-going production of all made-in-USA originals, regrouped under the Mister Freedom® “Sportsman” catalog. A long-sleeve version was subsequently made available in an indigo/white hickory stripe twill and a brown “Cacao” chambray.
The NOS fabrics of this SS2019 release are quite contemporary but boast a fancy old-school pedigree. They were produced by the Italian mills of the renown ALBINI Group, purveyor of fine tailoring textiles since 1876. We were lucky to score some yardage of two distinct yarn-dyed plain weave linen Albini fabrics in a Los Angeles warehouse, and jumped on the opportunity to take the Berkeley on an escapade to Lombardy, for a touch of classic Italian elegance.
These two summer fabrics are light weight and breezy, featuring a subtle sheer, a crispy dry hand, and the typical wrinkled look and classic drape of 100% linen woven cloth.
 Somewhere in a Los Angeles warehouse… The long-sleeve white/blue stripe Berkeley shirt has a bit of a maritime vibe due to the vertical stripe pattern. The short-sleeve blue/red check version carries more of a typical 1960’s casual summer shirt vibe. Both are easy-to-wear garments. Each fabric option is only available in one sleeve length, as released.
The MF® BERKELEY shirt is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from New Old Stock fabrics.
SPECS:
FABRICS:
a) White & blue woven stripe: 100% linen, light weight, breezy, milled in Italy.
b) Red & blue woven checks: 100% linen, light weight, breezy, milled in Italy.
DETAILS:
* An original MF® shirt pattern inspired by vintage 1960’s Ivy League style and American campuses attire.
* Pull-over type.
* Button-down collar.
* Amber brown corozo wood “Cat-Eyes” buttons.
* Two inverted-pleat chest pockets.
* Side gussets.
* Tailored-style sleeve setting.
* Chain-stitch construction.
* MF® woven “Sportsman” rayon label.
* Designed and made in USA from New Old Stock fabrics.
SIZING/FIT:
Both linen options of the Mister Freedom® SS2019 BERKELEY shirt come raw/unwashed and will shrink to the same tagged size after an initial 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
I wear a Medium (15-15½) in most mfsc button-down shirts and I opted for a comfortable Medium for the white/blue stripe (same size choice I had made for the madras versions), and a snug Small for the red/blue checks.
For a relaxed fit, we recommend getting your usual mfsc shirt size.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
   
CARE:
Due to the delicate nature of the fine-woven linen fabric, consider and handle the SS2019 BERKELEY as a fragile garment. Hand washing is preferable, but the shirts can be machine-washed on delicate/gentle cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Un-button the shirt before washing (collar and front.) Do not launder with clothing containing sharp hardware (metal buttons, metal zippers, hooks,…) to avoid snagging and overall damage to the shirt.
Available RAW (unwashed).
Two options: L/S white & blue stripes and S/S red & blue checks.
Sizes
Small (14-14½)
Medium (15-15½)
Large (16-16½)
X-Large (17-17½)
XX-Large (18-18½)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
 Fall 2018 Berkeley shirts, and a well-worn MF® Cowboy jacket in Malibu denim. 
 Indigo-dyed corozo wood buttons. 
 Raw Berkeley vs. full wash and tumbled dry.  Well-worn Sportsman shirt (SS2013) and rinsed Berkeley shirt, cut from the same NOS hickory stripe ticking.  NOS stripe ticking fabric, well-worn vs. one rinse. 
Mister Freedom® “BERKELEY” Pull-over Shirt.
New Old Stock fabrics: Stripe Ticking Twill & Cacao Chambray.
Spring 2018 mfsc “The SPORTSMAN” catalog.
Made in USA.
Introduced during Spring 2018 and initially released in two smashing indigo “bleeding” madras options, the “BERKELEY” shirt pattern is part of our on-going production of all made-in-USA originals, regrouped under the Mister Freedom® “Sportsman” catalog.
The MF® “Berkeley” is a no-frills pull-over type shirt with a vintage preppy vibe, a nod to 1960’s American campuses attire, California old-school collegial wear and casual Ivy-League style. The moniker is an obvious reference to UC Berkeley, and its rich history.
For Fall 2018, we are introducing a long-sleeve version of our Berkeley, but the shirt features the same specs as its Spring predecessor. The fabrics we opted for are very distinct: an indigo/white stripe twill, for the 1967 “Beach Boys” fan, and a brown chambray, for the instant patina aficionado.
The product photos feature a side-by-side with a worn and faded Sportsman Shirt made of the same NOS ticking twill batch, for evo reference.
As we had painstakingly done with the MF® x Sun Surf® “Biribi” shirt, we decided to adorn the Berkeley with a set of indigo-dyed corozo wood buttons, for that subtle splash of irresistible dazzling blues. The buttons vary in hues and were hand-dyed right at home in our back lot, in between ping-pong tournament breaks.
The MF® BERKELEY shirt is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from New Old Stock fabrics.
SPECS:
FABRICS:
a) NOS Cacao Chambray (brown warp & white weft), 100% cotton plain weave fabric, about 9 Oz. (heavier weight than the average shirting chambray material), milled in Italy. This fabric is not colorfast and a full wash will result in noticeable color loss, and an almost instant “vintage look”.
b) NOS Hickory Stripe Twill, 100% cotton New Old Stock lightweight vintage fabric, selvedge, origin USA.
DETAILS:
* An original MF® shirt pattern inspired by vintage 1960’s Ivy League style and American campuses attire.
* Pull-over type.
* Long sleeve edition.
* Button-down collar.
* Indigo-dyed corozo wood “Cat-Eyes” buttons.
* Two inverted-pleat chest pockets.
* Side gussets.
* Tailored-style sleeve setting.
* Chain-stitch construction, featuring “Sportsman” green thread accent on inside.
* MF® woven “Sportsman” rayon label.
* Designed and made in USA from New Old Stock fabrics.
SIZING/FIT:
Both options of the Mister Freedom® FW2018 BERKELEY shirt come raw/unwashed and will shrink to the same tagged size after an initial 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
I wear a Medium (15-15½) in most mfsc button-down shirts and I opted for a comfortable yet trim Medium in both the ticking twill and cacao chambray BERKELEY shirts, the same size choice I made for the madras versions. We recommend getting your usual mfsc shirt size.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry. Further shrinkage can be expected with a full wash and heat dryer cycle.
 
 
CARE:
The MF® BERKELEY shirt can be machine-washed on delicate cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry. Wash separately to avoid potential color transfer to light-colored garments.
a) NOS Cacao Chambray “Berkeley” shirt: a full wash will result in noticeable color loss. Please note that this may be a desirable feature for one into interesting fabric patina, but a potential disappointment for the colorfast garment advocate.
b) NOS Hickory Stripe Twill “Berkeley” shirt: some light indigo blue transfer to the white yarns might occur with the first wash and/or when tumbled dry. This is normal and will subside over time and subsequent wash cycles.
Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
Small (14-14½)
Medium (15-15½)
Large (16-16½)
X-Large (17-17½)
XX-Large (18-18½)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
 
 
 Partying Birdie Num Num-style. Mister Freedom® “BERKELEY” Pull-over Shirt, indigo ‘bleeding’ madras plaids.
Spring 2018 mfsc “The SPORTSMAN” catalog.
Made in USA.
For Spring 2018, we are adding a new shirt pattern to our on-going production of all made-in-USA originals, regrouped under the Mister Freedom® “Sportsman” catalog.
We were aiming for a vintage preppy vibe for this shirt, so we put together a no-frills pull-over type, button-down collar and short sleeves, a nod to 1960’s American campuses attire. The moniker is an obvious reference to UC Berkeley, and its rich history.
To complete the reference to old-school collegial wear and casual Ivy-League style, we opted for madras plaids to introduce our BERKELEY shirt Birdie Num Num-style…
But to make things a bit more challenging, and instead of replicating one of the hundreds of traditional madras plaid patterns (for a taste of variety, read the saga of the limited edition MF® RANGER Shirts released in 2016, all cut from a lucky score of assorted vintage New Old Stock madras fabrics), we tapped into our in-store archives of antique Japanese textiles for inspiration. After heartbreaking deliberations, we selected two 1920’s~1940’s plaid specimen (see our Boro Shorties for a range of these end-of-Taishō/early-Showa beautiful shuttle-loom Japanese fabrics turned into neckwear.) We then had limited yardage milled in India on old-school shuttle powerlooms, all that under the supervision of our friends and textile experts of Toyo Enterprises. The weaving process on antiquated machines contributed to the characteristic slub and charming ’imperfections’ typical of authentic madras fabrics.
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Power Loom operator. Photo courtesy of Alex at NaturalDyePot.com
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Powerloom weaving (Photo courtesy M. Govarthan)
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The loot of vintage New Old Stock madras fabrics…
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Vintage New Old Stock madras fabrics, before turning into MF® Ranger shirts.
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Original Mister Freedom® Ranger shirts, made from vintage NOS Madras fabrics.
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Antique textiles corner at the MF® HQ.
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A selection of antique Japanese woven textiles, indigo and vegetable dyes.
Because our vintage Japanese swatches involved indigo-dyed yarns, it took some convincing to have the Indian mill use actual indigo, a reluctance probably dating back to woven madras plaids’ early days on the international scene… Besides its novelty popularity as resort garb for lucky travelers to the West Indies, the debut of madras garments in the American casual wear market got a cold shoulder, as 1940’s US consumers were not ready for unstable colors in their wardrobe. Savvy buyers had yet to be convinced to embrace the factory-distressed look, so it took a clever marketing stunt to start a non-colorfast madras fabric craze, allegedly involving an American textile importer , Brooks Bros, and Seventeen Magazine ! That interesting advertising story is related here, and if anyone managed to locate a copy of the original magazine article, we’d love to see it!
Anyways, after the 1960’s heydays of “bleeding madras” loomed in India, traditional indigo blue and vegetable dyes were to be gradually replaced by colorfast chemical dyes, and, today, fabric fading is somewhat a thing of the past for thriving Chennai textile mills.
The Mister Freedom® BERKELEY shirt will subtly “bleed” and naturally age and fade with repeat wear and wash, like vintage madras garments did, to the delight of the fashionable boys and girls of American campuses in the 60’s!
The MF® BERKELEY shirt is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from fabric milled in India inspired by antique Japanese textiles.
SPECS:
FABRICS:
Two distinctive selvedge woven plaids inspired by antique Japanese indigo textiles and vintage madras fabrics, 100% cotton, milled on shuttle powerlooms in India.
DETAILS:
* An original MF® shirt pattern inspired by vintage 1960’s Ivy League style and American campuses attire.
* Pull-over type.
* Short sleeve.
* Button-down collar.
* Corrozo wood “Cat-Eyes” buttons.
* Two inverted-pleat chest pockets.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Tailored-style sleeve setting.
* Chain-stitch construction, featuring “Sportsman” green thread accent on inside.
* MF® woven “Sportsman” rayon label.
* Designed and made in USA from madras fabric milled in India.
SIZING/FIT:
Both options of the Mister Freedom® BERKELEY shirt come raw/unwashed and will shrink to the same tagged size after an initial 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
I wear a Medium (15-15½) in most mfsc button-down shirts and I opted for a comfortable yet trim Medium in the BERKELEY shirt.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and lightly heat-dried for 5mn.
 
CARE:
The BERKELEY shirt can be machine-washed on delicate cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry. Wash separately to avoid color transfer of the indigo.
Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
Small (14-14½)
Medium (15-15½)
Large (16-16½)
X-Large (17-17½)
XX-Large (18-18½)
Retail: $249.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
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