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FW2018 Trade Shirt size chart
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FW2018 Nixon Shirt size chart
Mister Freedom® TRADE Shirt & NIXON Shirt, double calico twill.
mfsc Surplus Fall 2018.
Made in Japan.
We released our first double calico discharge print novelty fabric during the swinging days of our Gypsy Blues collection, in the form of a swanky shirt, the Fall 2017 Liquette Manouche.
The inspiration for that fabric came, as often with what we do, from old rags collected over the years. Here is how the concept of a double-sided fabric was introduced on the original post:
“…we figured we’d chalenge our friends at Toyo Enterprises with a new puzzling favor: a double discharge-printed calico fabric! Inspired by a rare French 1930’s vintage garment, we had been contemplating the idea for some years, and thought it was time to mail an R&D package across the Pacific, attention Toyo’s Textile Lab…
We opted for a black, crisp cotton twill as the base fabric, and painstakingly selected two distinctive traditional calico patterns from antique textiles and swatches collected over the years. For production, the two subtlety-contrasting calico patterns are discharge-printed, on both the face and reverse of the fabric (i.e. “bleached-out” with low bleed-through.)…”
The calico patterns we selected this Fall came from the archives of a Parisian industrial drawing study (see ink stamp that reads Dessins Industriels “A. MAUSES”, Paris, 13 Rue du Sentier in the back of the design cards), who apparently got contracted by a textile-printing mill for original fabric prints, sometimes in the 1930’s~50’s. We scored these hand-painted goodies in a Parisian flea market, years ago. One of the pattern is a fairly traditional stripe-effect repeat (fabric of the Nixon Shirt), contrasting with the more “Liberty Print” or polka-dot style of the other (Trade Shirt). And no, these are not UFO’s. It is unsure whether either graphic was ever selected and made it as a fabric print at the time.
 From MF® design archives, antique French hand-painted graphic repeats used for fabric printing. Both shirt patterns have been introduced previously in Mister Freedom® collections, and have since become wardrobe staples, from Los Angeles, CA., to remote parts of the Atacama Desert. The TRADE Shirt pattern is from our 2012 Men Of The Frontier yippee ki-yay days, and the Nixon Shirt made its first appearance in the Fall 2017 Surplus collection.
Both the Mister Freedom® mfsc TRADE Shirt and NIXON Shirt are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co and the expert Toyo Enterprise team.
Please note that, although cut from double-sided printed fabric, neither the NIXON or TRADE shirts are reversible.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
A crisp 5 Oz. black 100% cotton twill, double-printed with two specific antique calico patterns on face and reverse, using a discharge-print technique.
Milled and printed in Japan exclusively for mfsc.
1) MF® TRADE Shirt Double Calico:
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, early American homesteader style, a silhouette reminiscent of old Frontier days and Native Americans adopting non-traditional western fashions, as seen on period field photography, such as Adam Clark Vroman or Edward S Curtis’ works. This is an updated version of the original 2012 Mister Freedom® TRADE Shirt.
* Pull-over tunic style.
* Double-side printed fabric (non-reversible garment).
* Stand collar with chin strap.
* Back panel and cuffs shearing.
* Tonal corozo wood buttons.
* Indigo popeline button placket facing, with period-style “Union” ticket.
* Early European-style side gussets, arrowhead patch pattern.
* Flat felled chain-stitch seams and single needle machine construction.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Original mfsc “SURPLUS” woven rayon patch.
* Made in Japan from fabric milled in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® TRADE Shirt in double calico comes raw/unwashed, and will all shrink to tagged size.
Follow the usual recommended initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry.
The MF® TRADE Shirt is true-to-size and we recommend getting your normal mfsc size. I often wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I opted for a comfortable Medium in the MF® TRADE Shirt.
Please refer to chart to determine which size works for you.
 FW2018 Trade Shirt size chart 2) MF® NIXON Shirt Double Calico:
DETAILS:
* A garment pattern inspired by an original 1950’s “Roomy Richard” chambray shirt, and other vintage work shirts such as Big Mac®, Big Dick®, Big Yank®, etc…
* Trim silhouette with a 1940’s uniform vibe.
* Fancy double-layer left chest pocket with flap, known as “cigarette pocket”, in which you should put anything but cigarettes.
* Slanted opening right-side pocket with pen slot.
* Tonal corozo wood buttons.
* Chin strap collar, with vintage-style mfsc-embossed metal buttons on the collar band.
* Hi-count triple stitch construction.
* Green bar-tack accents on pockets.
* MF® Surplus green contrast chainstitch on the inside.
* Side gussets.
* Original Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label.
* Made in Japan from fabric milled in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® NIXON Shirt Chambray in double calico comes raw/unwashed and will all shrink to tagged size.
Follow the usual recommended initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry.
The MF® NIXON Shirt is true-to-size and we recommend getting your normal mfsc size. I often wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I opted for a slim-fitting Medium in the MF® NIXON Shirt.
Please refer to chart to determine which size works for you.
 FW2018 Nixon Shirt size chart CARE:
Wash your shirt when necessary.
We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid potential marbling.
Machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
      
Mister Freedom® Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat & Trousers)
New Old Stock black-coated crosshatch denim (BCD)
mfsc Sportsman catalog, Fall 2018
Made in USA
Time to get rhythm ‘n get the blues, and kick off our Fall 2018 mfsc collection with this first installment, the dark and handsome “JC” two-piece suit!
All made-in-USA, this original trousers and sportcoat set, latest addition to the Mister Freedom® Continental family, is cut from an old MF® favorite, the final precious yardage of New Old Stock black-coated indigo denim (BCD) from our dusty vault.
Previously featured on the MF® Speedways and its Cowboy Jacket sidekick, this special NOS fabric is not the modern waxy black rubber type coating seen on novelty contemporary jeans, but rather an interesting indigo denim twill printed with a soft-hand opaque coat of matte black water-based ink. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the traditional light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen here) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality.
If the BCD initially looks flat black due to the pigment coating, it will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo with black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion.
Below photos show a worn/washed pair of BCD Speedways next to the “JC” Continental Trousers in un-worn condition, both cut from the exact same fabric.
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Black-coated denim, before and after.
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The “JC” Two-Piece Suit consists of two of our popular classic patterns, the MF® Continental Sportcoat and Continental Trousers.
The unstructured blazer pattern is already available in an array of fine NOS fabrics, an indigo crosshatch twill, two grey cotton-linen twills, a light indigo “Player” denim, and an elegant tropical “Congo Gabardine” cotton-linen twill.
The Trousers have previously been released in brown Cacao Chambray, indigo Crosshatch Denim Twill, and light indigo “Player” Denim.
Available as individual garments for a mix & match look, the black-coated denim “JC” is of course offered as a Sportcoat/Trousers set, for the Man-in-Black inclined.
The mfsc Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit in Black-Coated Denim (Continental Sportcoat & Trousers) is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock crosshatch pigment-coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, 12 Oz. Probable Kurabo (Japan) origin.
Pocketing & half lining/facing: NOS fancy woven stripe 100% cotton plain weave (ivory white with blue & grey stripes), milled in Europe.
Continental “JC” SPORTCOAT:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Lightweight and easily folded, perfect traveling companion.
* Sixties-vibe high button front.
* Black corozo wood butons.
* Half shoulder floating lining, 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill.
* Side hip pockets with flaps.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with facing fabric.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, all clean caballo (chainstitch) flat-felled seam construction, green color “Sportsman” signature chainstitch on the inside. No open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.
Continental “JC” TROUSERS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, straight leg.
* Black corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Flat-felled side seam caballo all around construction.
* Rear welt pockets.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill pocket bags, waist band .
* NOS indigo twill fly/cinch facing.
* Watch pocket.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Tailor shop-style unfinished overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT
This explains how we size our garments.
The Continental Sportcoat and trousers come raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.
I personally opted for a Size 38 in the Continental sportcoat and Waist 32 trousers. These are my usual sizes in the Continental series and most mfsc garments.
Trousers sizing: The Continental Trousers are true to size. If you are a measured waist 32 inches, you are most-likely a stamped W32 in the Continental Trouser. Do not size down on these. Please note that the Continental Trousers pattern might not be a good option for all body types. Proportion-wise, those with Ronaldo-style muscular legs will probably look better in our regular Sportsman Chino models.
Trousers hemming: After the initial soak/hang dry process, we recommend settling down on the final length of the bottom hem after gently wearing the trousers around the house a bit. The cotton fabric tends to naturally bunch/wrinkle and pull the leg up slightly. Letting this specific fabric react to your own body for an hour or so will allow you to decide on a proper classic leg break that works for you. I opted for a classic 1 1/4 fold, and subtle period flood.
Style-wise, we do not recommend bulky denim rolls and over-played BRMC cuffing with these classic slacks.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
(Fit pic: Haus is wearing a size 38 jacket and W32 trousers.)
  
CARE:
Treat your MF® Continental “JC” black-coated denim garments as you would fancy indigo denim wearables. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast colors fades, otherwise machine wash on DELICATE.
Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Full wash cycle and heat dryer are not recommended.
Initially black, the MF® Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit will develop its own attractive patina with normal wear, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Be patient and just enjoy looking good during the process!
Sportcoat and trousers available separately or as a two-piece suit for substantial saving.
Continental “JC” SPORTCOAT:
Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Continental “JC” TROUSERS:
Sizes (Leg length about 36’’, left un-cuffed)
W 28
W 30
W 32
W 34
W 36
W 38
Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat + Trousers):
Any size combination available, rebate issued at PayPal check out.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
 
 
Mister Freedom® COWBOY Jacket, New Old Stock black-coated crosshatch denim (BCD).
Sportsman mfsc Spring 2018.
Made in USA.
The latest release for the Spring 2018 Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog is a new iteration of the popular MF® Cowboy Jacket, our twist on the classic trucker-style jacket. The MF® Cowboy Jacket is already available in a traditional dark indigo NOS Cone mills 12.5 Oz denim twill, a beautiful lighter indigo “Malibu Sea” 14 Oz. selvedge denim milled in Japan, and a NOS wheat color Cone Mills 12.5 Oz selvedge denim.
This time around, we wanted a dancing partner for the MF® SPEEDWAYS Jeans issued for Fall 2017 in a special “coated denim”. This special NOS fabric is not the modern waxy black rubber type coating seen on novelty contemporary jeans, but rather an interesting indigo denim twill printed with a soft-hand opaque coat of matte black water-based ink. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the usual light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality.
If the Cowboy Jacket in BCD initially looks flat black due to the pigment coating, it will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo with black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion. See the denim wash test photos below, also featuring a small section rubbed with sand paper.
 
We opted for tonal stitching and un-branded oxidized black wreath donut buttons, for a rather unassuming vibe and neutral fashion statement.
The mfsc COWBOY Jacket in Black-Coated Denim is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock crosshatch pigment-coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, 12 Oz. Probable Kurabo (Japan) origin.
DETAILS:
* Fairly trim silhouette, sixties vibe.
* Original MF® slanted flap chest pockets.
* Oxydized black wreath donut shank buttons.
* MF® tonal “M” stitching on pockets.
* Charcoal “salt & pepper” chambray fabric accents on pocket flap facing.
* Buttoned cinch-waist side tabs.
* Copper rivet for pockets and sleeve placket reinforcements.
* Debossed leather MF® original patch.
* All cotton thread chainstitch construction, tonal with contrasting red accents on the inside.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT
The Cowboy Jacket in BCD (Black-Coated Denim) comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. This specific denim is pretty much sanforized, and very minimal shrinkage is to be expected.
We suggest you follow the usual initial method we recommend for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
* As an optional step, wear the garment briefly when still not fully dry, in order to slightly shape it to your body and set creases. Hang and let fully dry.
The denim garment will stiffen when dry following this initial routine, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.
As with all the versions of the MF® COWBOY Jacket, I opted to size down from the Medium (38) I usually wear in msfc garments, and went for a snug 36 (once cold soaked/line dry.)
What works is subjective and will depend on what silhouette you are comfortable and familiar with, on your body type and personal style.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
 
CARE:
Treat the MF® COWBOY Jacket BCD as you would fancy indigo denim wearables. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast colors fades, otherwise machine wash on delicate. Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Initially black, your Cowboy Jacket BCD will develop its own attractive patina with normal wear, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles.
Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
X-Small (34)
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
Retail $ 349.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018
Mister Freedom® Type N-1H mfsc Deck Jacket, black jungle cloth edition
Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection
We are dropping another heavy hitter this season, a foul weather contender in the Fall 2016 Anniversary Collection celebrating ten years of fun collaborations with our friends at Sugar Cane Co and Buzz Rickson’s (Toyo Enterprises).
This jacket will be our fifth iteration of the iconic military naval “Deck Jacket”, now-familiar to heritage fashion circles. Check out the MF® chronological timeline, summarized while introducing the indigo version of our “Blouson De Quart” (a reference to the French Marine Nationale deck jacket).
This N-1H Anniversary issue is a nod to our original model, released in 2008 during the early nautical adventures of the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” collection. Our first N-1H (the added H was for hook), issued in navy blue jungle cloth and wool blanket-lined, was a hybrid of several Government-issued foul weather jackets. Its design mixed periods and specs of vintage 1940’s and 50’s US Navy deck jackets, sought-after collectibles today.
The Fall 2016 edition of the Type N-1H Deck Jacket’s specs are similar to those of its 2008 predecessor. One stand-out difference is the shell color. We opted for a black 100% cotton grow grain jungle cloth, complimented by an attractive heather dark navy blue wool lining. This soft-hand lining (a non-itchy blend of 90% wool and 10% nylon) is backed by an inner rayon fabric layer, a reference to the crunchy wax-coated organdy layer of early USN deck jackets. Please note that we went for a ‘quieter’ wind-proofing material for this issue, as the crinkly noise of our 2008 model tended to interfere with sound mix on movie sets!
The 2016 N1-H performs pretty much as its predecessors did, i.e. appropriate for moderately-cold weather. We wanted an in-between season garment with this deck jacket, rather than a full-on winter coat such as the recently-released alpaca-lined indigo Blouson De Quart.
According to your tolerance level of cold temperatures, the black N-1H might not be a good choice for prolonged exposure to extreme winter conditions while in the field. There are better options out there if you’re planning to take on the Everest. However, with appropriate layering, you’ll be fine for chilly winter evenings in California and under other mild temperate climates.
On a side note, if I personally plan on leaving my indigo Blouson de Quart as-is and let a natural indigo color patina develop over time, I might wax my black N-1H in the near future, for partial waterproofing and for the rather interesting resulting leathery effect.
 Waxed MF® khaki Blouson de Quart, 2014. The Type N-1H Deck Jacket, black jungle cloth issue, 2016 mfsc Anniversary edition, is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS
FABRIC:
* Shell: Solid 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, black 100% cotton grosgrain fabric, period mil-specs, milled in Japan.
* Body Inner Lining: 100% rayon fabric wind-proofing concealed layer.
* Lining: Soft hand, non-itchy blend of 90% wool and 10% nylon fabric.
DETAILS:
* Freely inspired by 1940’s-1950’s vintage US Navy foul weather-type deck jackets issued to enlisted naval personnel.
* Double front closure featuring both a 1950’s-type TALON zipper, and a wind flap secured by 1940’s-type clip hooks.
* Full lining, soft-hand wool/nylon blend.
* ‘Silent’ inner wind-proofing layer, 100% rayon fabric.
* 100% wool knit collar and cuffs, navy blue color.
* Cinch-string bottom.
* MF® teardrop hand-warmer pockets, lined with golden brown cotton corduroy.
* Underarm ventilating eyelets.
* Tonal poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Limited Ten Year Anniversary Edition.
* Double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven labels.
* No outside military markings.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
We had these jackets professionally rinsed. NOT distressed, but gently rinsed and tumble-dried. No shrinkage guessing.
Our black edition N-1H is pre-shrunk, and true to size. I wear a comfortable 38 in this coat, with room for a thick shirt or wool sweater underneath.
Like most ready-to-wear garments not made from stretch fabric or cut as a poncho, our N-1H might not satisfy everyone’s body type expectations. In general, the consensus is to go with your usual size in mfsc jackets.
We have taken the measurements to the best of our abilities. Refer to our sizing chart and remember that measurements are from the outside of the fabric.
CARE:
Please DO NOT attempt to wash this jacket in a home washing machine! You risk ruining both machine and jacket. The N1-H weights quite a bit when wet, the metal hooks will get snagged, the black jungle cloth fabric will get marbling marks etc…
IMPORTANT: Treat your zipper as you would a vintage one, rub wax to lubricate at times, and use common sense rather that brute force to zip and unzip, making sure tabs line-up when zipping.
Activities and frequency of wear will obviously dictate when cleaning is needed. Please use common sense with spot cleaning, or take the jacket to a professional eco-friendly cleaner. This jacket can also be hand-washed in a tub filled with cold water. Use eco-friendly detergent for delicate colors. Hang to dry.
Available rinsed/pre-shrunk.
Sizes
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Retail $799.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016
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