Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 “Frontier Duck”, 100% cotton canvas, Rust brown & Dark navy.
SS2023 & FW2023 mfsc Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.
We’ve issued the Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN in a plethora of premium fabrics through the years.
Since its 2010 introduction, our original classic five-pocket jeans pattern has been released in a wide range of NOS traditional indigo selvedge denims, eclectic premium Japanese fabrics such as double indigo twill, “Midnight” denim, Bedford cord Pique , corduroy, Jungle cloth, and cotton sateen.
For this iteration, we decided to give the CALIFORNIAN Lot64 an old school cotton canvas treatment, a nod to 1960s-70s brown duck 200Z Lee® Riders. For the denim collector, there was a fair amount of Lee® NOS floating around in the vintage world in the early 1990s, easily recognizable by the iconic yellow “boot and bucking bronco” Lee® paper flasher and desirable black/gold waistband label. I remember scoring a few stacks of those canvas specimen in old western wear stores at the time, and also sporting a pair.
For this project, we wanted domestic fabric and went out to source some nice and dry 12 Oz. cotton “Frontier” duck yardage, milled by Mt Vernon Mills in Georgia, USA.
We opted for two color options. A rusty brown similar to our Lee® brown duck jeans source of inspiration – also typical of classic Carhartt workwear – and a deep dark navy blue. For those considering a farmhand tuxedo, please note that the CALIFORNIAN rusty brown “Frontier” duck fabric is of a different dye lot from the “Frontier” Ranch Blouse NOS Duck.
This canvas duck fabric is woven on wide looms, resulting in unfinished edges, i.e. non selvedge. Therefore, as with the Californian Jungle cloth issue, the leg outseams of the pants are finished with overlock, another classic 1970s Lee® jeans trait.
We kept our MF® classic contrast orange/yellow combo stitching for the brown duck, and went tonal for the navy.
As often with our domestic production, we are using older NOS (New-Old-Stock, aka “Dead Stock”) fabric for the pocket bags. Not only as a “vintage aesthetics” choice, but in an effort to always use-up all yardage we have in stock.
Discarding left-over material is common practice in our overproducing fashion industry, an obvious waste of virgin raw material and resources, and pretty much an insult to our species’ intelligence at this point! We can do better.
Valuable and painstakingly-milled unused and uncut fabric yardage, let alone recently-manufactured clothes, should definitely not end up in landfills, nor in smoke.
The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 jeans, “Frontier Duck Canvas” edition, are designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT64 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slightly tapered leg for a 50s-60s vibe.
FABRIC:
Dry 100% cotton “Frontier” duck canvas, 12 Oz., milled by Mt Vernon Mills, Georgia, USA.
Two color options, rusty brown and deep dark navy.
Pocket bags:
Brown canvas option: NOS 100% cotton navy blue twill with woven white pinstripe.
Navy canvas option: NOS 100% cotton fancy Dobby stripe weave, grayish/blue stripe on off-white background (left-over yardage from the production of the MF® Aristocrat Shirt.)
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded metal cast tack buttons, “oxidized” silver color.
* Non-selvedge overlocked leg outseam.
* Fancy NOS fabric 100% cotton pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket, natural veg-tan cowhide for rusty brown canvas version, black tea-core veg-tan cowhide for navy canvas version.
* Contrast stitching on brown canvas version. Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange. Tonal stitching (black) on navy canvas version.
* Riveted coin pocket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bartack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (royal blue).
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT64 Frontier Duck Canvas jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Machine spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
The canvas Californians are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
I opted for a W30 in these (5’7 ~142 Lbs.), for a fit silhouette, and went un-hemmed and un-cuffed for “sloppy” period stacking.
The size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your jeans to fit.
Please refer to size chart, reflecting rinsed measurements.
CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning the jeans inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Potential attractive patina may develop according to one’s activities, and frequency of wear/wash.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
 
Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.674, Selvedge Piqué Edition.
SS2019 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.
Our theme-based capsule collection for Spring/Summer 2019 is entitled “YUCATÁN”.
Not just a straightforward allusion to the famous Mexican state on the peninsula notorious for the Mayan ruins and beach resorts, but a reference to the title of a lesser-known unreleased movie project famed actor Steve McQueen worked on in the late 1960’s.
The unfinished but thoroughly-researched project sat in a basement until one fine day of 1996, when Chad McQueen allegedly dusted-off two old leather trunks… packed with leather binders containing a 1,700 page-long scripted storyboard!
 The dusty “Yucatan” lost classic treasure… (Photo montage courtesy of biographer Marshall Terrill, Warner Bros, Team Downey.) Having personally crafted the story, Steve McQueen had carved a perfect role for himself. “Yucatán” apparently recounted the action-packed tropical adventures of a former US Navy diver turned treasure hunter in Southeast Mexico. Motorcycle chases in the desert, ruthless archeological site looters, dune buggy racing, scuba diving in cenotes… Promising stuff! Somewhat of the ultimate wild ride from the Gulf of Mexico to the Caribbean Sea, an “Indiana Jones” type saga with Mayan culture as the backdrop, and the cooler king as the rider.
Unfortunately for adventure-action movie fans, the project was eventually abandoned, after “Le Mans” emptied McQueen’s Solar Production‘s coffers.
The ‘treasure’ trunks containing the storyboard ended-up in an auction in Santa Monica, CA, in 2013. Surprisingly, no takers…
“Yucatán” is today property of Warner Bros, and it has been reported that Hollywood star Robert Downey Jr. – and his “Team Downey” – have been hard at work trying to turn the original McQueen’s story into a silver screen blockbuster.
As of 2015, the Yucatán project was still at the developing stage… Considering Mr. Downey’s talent and ressources, I am personally quite looking forward to the film release, if this ‘lost classic’ ever materializes.
More on that story here and there. Official updates on the movie project seem to be posted here…
Back to our own line of work, the schmata.
Drawing inspiration from a movie you have yet to see might sound a bit challenging, but this is actually quite along the lines of our “might-have-been” design approach that keeps us clear of straight-up replicas and creatively-repetitive work.
The vibe of our SS2019 “YUCATÁN” fashion venture is sporty, racy, with a touch of sixties beachcomber meets desert rat. This concise, full-throttle yet unassuming collection for grown-ups includes the DUNE BUGGY Jacket, the MARINA Polo, the “Yucatán” Rock’n’Roll Fiesta Shirt, and is complimented by two Sportsman catalog pieces, the COWBOY Jacket and CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 in Piqué.
If the Piqué Cowboy Jacket landed early in the season, its bottom-half Lot.674 companion is just fresh-off the small and busy SoCal factory that proudly and painstakingly produces a large portion of the Mister Freedom® mfsc Sportsman catalog, and all of the Californian family jeans and jackets.
As far as style, piqué jeans with matching jackets became popular with young adults in the early 1960’s, as a casual alternative to blue denim, with Levi’s® leading the trend with its 911 series released in a palette of subtle earth tone colors.
“Color jeans” in general, of assorted woven patterns and from several makers, made their way to American campuses, city streets and film sets. Lee Riders® was popular for its sateen “Westerner” models, Levi’s® for its pique and twills, and Wrangler® for its twill and light blue denim versions. Style icons like Steve McQueen or Paul Newman adopted their own favorites on and off screen, unwillingly promoting the style, contributing to its cool easygoing sixties fashion vibe today.
Our 100% cotton 12.05 Oz. piqué fabric features fine raised vertical cords on the face, with a contrasting waffle-like texture on the reverse. We are releasing it in two distinct color options: natural ‘wheat’ and a specific shade of ’vintage’ sage green. On close inspection, the wheat version features attractive minuscule brown flakes, as the yarn is unbleached.
We introduced our Californian Lot.674 pattern back in 2017, featuring the top block of the Lot.64 combined with tapered leg of the Lot.74, and a button fly. The Lot.674 is our slimmest leg, although not by contemporary fashion standards that have raised the “slim fit” bar to breathtaking (literally) levels, but according to our own classic menswear aesthetics. Refer to this timeline for a summary of the Mister Freedom® five-pocket jeans fits and various fabric releases.
The mfsc CALIFORNIAN Piqué Edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% cotton 12.05 Oz. piqué fabric, selvedge, milled in Japan.
Two color options:
a) Sage green
b) Wheat (unbleached natural color)
Pocket bags: Fancy NOS woven stripe canvas, 100% cotton.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS fabric pocket bags, fancy woven striped cotton canvas.
* MF® original tonal “M” stitch arcuate design on rear pockets.
* Debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket. Will tan an age nicely overtime.
* 100% cotton thread tonal construction, combining several gauge of thread.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Combination of silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast fly buttons, and MF® brass tack waist button.
* Unmarked copper riveting for reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (chocolate brown).
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The Piqué CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 comes UN-WASHED (i.e. raw/loomstate) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend our usual method for raw cotton garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
The Californian Lot.674 Piqué are true-to-size, with the usual “vanity sizing” standard in the industry.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. (Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow the belly button, not bellow the hips.)
I opted for a W31 in the Lot.674 Californian Piqué, which tends to be my size of choice for the MF® style of 1960’s slim jeans patterns, such as our popular Speedways, Malibu’s, Lot.74 and Lot.674 models. When playing around with period “flood length” à-la McQueen, rather than rolled cuffs or modern unsightly stacking, the Lot.674 has a definite sixties vibe silhouette.
Note that unlike most denim fabrics, this piqué fabric will not stretch with wear.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Available RAW/unwashed.
Sage green or Wheat.
Sizes
W 28
W 30
W 32
W 34
W 36
W 38
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
Mister Freedom® Californian indigo blue jeans Lot.44R (reissue)
13 Oz. selvedge denim twill, NOS Cone Mills.
mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
The Californian LOT.44 Blue Jean is our classic 1940’s-50’s silhouette, the widest fit of our straight leg five-pocket denim family.
 Tasteful 2012 promotion material. This special run revives the original popular pattern of the the LOT.44, with its old-school buckle back, higher rise and full leg. The “R” stands for “reissue”, as the LOT.44R are cut in one type of NOS denim, not a mixed bag of 37 twills as initially released back in 2011.
The New Old Stock fabric of the LOT.44R was milled by famed and now-defunct Cone Mills of Greensboro, N.C., USA. This handsome indigo denim twill is sanforized (will not shrink), and its selvedge ID is white with a red stripe .
The Californian LOT.44R were manufactured around 2016, and were, by oversight, never documented on the MF® blog, nor made available online. The webstore’s Californian section has now been updated with limited sizing of the LOT.44R..
The Mister Freedom® Lot.44R are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Note: This release does not include the original MF® cardboard box packaging.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo twill denim, white with red stripe selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags: A fancy NOS 100% cotton herringbone twill, gunpowder grey color.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Buckle-back, aka cinch-back.
* New Old Stock fancy HBT cotton fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original yellow “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Lined rear pockets (NOS grey HBT cotton.)
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Packaging-free.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
This NOS denim is sanforized, i.e. the LOT.44R Californian will not shrink after the initial recommended 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
They are true-to size, and a tagged W32 measures approximately 32 inches.
The LOT.44R feature a straight leg with a generous silhouette and a higher rise, with a definite 1940’s-50’s “period vibe”.
NOTE: We measure the waist of our jeans by doing the following:
1) Fasten the top waist button.
2) Pinch both ends of the folded waistband firmly, pulling reasonably so that front rise and back rise align and lay flat.
3) Position the straight folded waistband on a (fixed) wooden measuring stick (cloth tape tends to stretch overtime, giving wrong measurements.)
4) Read the measurement then double it.
Ex: a 16 inches measurement across the waistband becomes a Waist 32.
Refer to our sizing chart for raw/cold soaked measurements.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.44 is available RAW/unwashed.
Available tagged Sizes:
W30 × L34
W31 × L36
W32 × L36
W33 × L36
W34 × L36
W36 × L36
W38 × L36
Now available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Note: These are not issued with the original MF® cardboard box.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans.
Made in USA.
Our popular classic five-pocket jeans are called “Californian” because they are made in California, USA.
The MF® Californians come in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by main Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674.
Through the years, we have issued various iterations of these Lots, showcasing assorted selvedge denims and trim options, released in the USA in rigid/loomstate form only:
* Californian Lot.54 (Yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, button fly, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.44 (Box packaging, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, button fly, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
* Californian Lot.44R (Reissue, w/o packaging, 2018): Same as Lot.44 but issued in NOS Cone 13.Oz sanforized denim twill.
* Californian Lot.64 (Red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, zipper fly, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim.
* Californian Lot.654 (Yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, button fly, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64E (Red/White stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.674 (Ivory white paper flasher, 2017): Top block of the Lot.64 mixed with tapered leg of the Lot.74, button fly, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64BB (Dark navy paper flasher, 2017): Lot.64 with added Buckle-Back cinch, button fly, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64OG (Venice Beach Sunset paper flasher, 2018): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, button fly, issued in NOS 15.5 Oz. organic Cone Mills denim.
Asides from our MF® Californians, we also offer a wide range of non five-pocket denim trousers.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
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