Mister Freedom® “SNIPES” Shirt, Buzz Rickson’s USN Indigo Chambray, mfsc FW2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES, BR chambray, raw ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES, BR chambray, rinsed ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Fabric evo: Mister Freedom® unworn “SNIPES Shirt” (2020) and well-worn “PATROL Shirt” (2014), featuring a completely different pattern, but cut from the same “BR” indigo chambray.

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom “SNIPES” Shirt, “BR” indigo blue 5 Oz. selvedge chambray.
FW 2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” Collection.
Made in Japan.

The pattern of the MF® SNIPES is inspired by the earliest model of US Gov-issued full button front uniform shirt.

Identified as Specs “No. 8-26C Shirt, Flannel, Olive-Drab, Coat Style” by the Quartermaster Corps, it was introduced sometime in 1933 and issued to US Army and Air Corps personnel and FDR’s CCC enrollees alike. This new uniform shirt pattern was deemed “Coat Style”, marking a practical departure from its predecessor, the mustard color pullover wool shirt commonly associated with WW1 Doughboys. The overall design was borrowed from civilian workwear, back when utilitarian garment-making skills bordered on fancy tailoring prowess. This is definitely an intricate pattern by today’s workwear clothing standards.

Besides the full six-button front placket improvement, the characteristics of the early 8-26C shirt included a one-piece unstructured collar (no collar band), a singular style of elbow reinforcement patch, and two large functional chest pockets, each with a pen compartment.

The Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt retains all of that military design DNA, but we opted for an indigo blue chambray fabric treatment instead of the original US Army OD wool blend release. The slubby indigo chambray is complimented by the olive green contrast stitching and button facing poplin placket, with a touch of red on the side bartacks.

That premium selvedge chambray fabric is a favorite of ours. Developed by Buzz Rickson’s for their vintage US Navy utility shirts repros, it has become a staple of the mfsc shirting catalog for some time. See the Continental, Tonkinoise and Patrol Shirt, all released in that exact same fabric. Some of the product photos above feature a well-worn BR chambray Patrol Shirt from 2014, for fabric evo ref.

Blending 1930s US Army uniform shirt design with 1940-50s US Navy period mil-specs fabric, this original MF® shirt needed a new moniker. Because of the strong vintage naval utility chambray work shirt vibe, we went for SNIPES. The term refers to US Navy enlisted personnel working in the engine room, the “sailors that sail below”, also known as “Black Gang” for their grease-covered blues and dixie cup covers. See Machinist’s Mate Jake Holman’s dungarees for a Hollywood rendition.

The MF® SNIPES Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC: Period mil-specs USN “Buzz Rickson’s” indigo blue chambray, slubby 5 Oz. fabric, white with blue line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by a vintage 1930’s US Army wool uniform classic.
* Full 6 button front opening.
* Rounded tails.
* Olive corozzo wood buttons.
* Two large utilitarian chest pockets with pen compartments.
* Unstructured one-piece collar.
* Elbow reinforcement patches.
* Olive poplin button placket facing.
* Chainstitch construction with narrow folder.
* All cotton olive color contrast stitching.
* Red bartack in lieu of side gussets.
* Original mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The BR chambray SNIPES Shirt comes RAW/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

I personally opted for a MEDIUM for a comfortable fit. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs., and although the SMALL did fit with more of a trim uniform silhouette, it was a bit too tight in the chest.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CHART

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

 

 

Mister Freedom® MFSC American Sportswear FAll 2011 (Part 1): NOS Chambray Shirt

 

Mister Freedom NOS Chambray shirt

The first installment of Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR” Collection is in: N.O.S. (New Old Stock) Chambray shirt

This Sportswear collection is all MADE in USA, an humble effort to keep factories busy at home, and to spend hard earned $ locally…
We chose NOS (New Old Stock, aka dead stock) fabrics for a lot of the items, selected from our collected stock of American vintage selvedged textiles. Not the easiest approach to manufacturing, since factories dread small batches, eclectic instructions, mixed fabric width and time consuming specific cut/sew…
We took the risks of the high road, and hope some will appreciate the efforts.

Imagery behind this collection is California mid 50’s to 60’s, from ranches, orange groves to Pacific shores. From off stage gear of the Hollywood cool cats, to Hipsters and Beats garb. Revisited MF® style.

SPECS
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slim fit.
FABRICS: Four options of NOS all cotton slubby chambray and one NOS stripe twill (i’ll spare you the color fancy naming game)
a)Blue cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
b) Black cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
c)Red cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
d) Green cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
e)Indigo/white stripe cotton selvedge twill, about 6 oz.
FACING: NOS blue cotton popeline, selvedge (used for collar band, button placket and gussets)
DETAILS:
* Two MF® original chest flap pocket pattern (I-thank you Mr. Jobs-phone fits perfectly in right pocket, and won’t fly out when closed)
* Elbow reinforcement
* Double needle chainstitch felled seam construction
* 100 % cotton thread stitching
BUTTONS: Original MFSC metal painted buttons. Combination of solid and “MFSC” debossed buttons.
LABELING: MFSC printed cloth inside label. Lower front panel stitched on paper flasher (Tear off before washing or wearing, do not  remove stitching, it is supposed to stay there) 
SHRINKAGE: To avoid confusion and surprises, all shirts are WASHED and hung dry (no dryer, to keep the light startchy crispy effect). So the initial shrinkage of the 100% cotton fabrics is taken care of.
We didn’t pre-wash the fabrics before cut/sew to preserve the ropping/twisting cherished effects, but felt like -unlike denim items- a shirt gets washed often and should be low maintenance.
SIZING:
Due to ‘out of control’ shrinkage of the older fabrics and several batches of assorted rolls, variations have occured within the different colour options. (If you are familiar with our sizing fits, you will probably need to size up in the Blue Chambray… see chart below)

NOS Chambray Sizing Chart

NOS Chambray Sizing Chart

Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, Manufactured in California. Limited edition.

Available WASHED only
Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL
Retail $199.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com  to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
We thank you again for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.

Mister Freedom® N.O.S. American Sportswear FALL 2011 Preview

Mister Freedom x Sugar Cane: MFSC Spring 09 Specs

Here are the MFSC ® internal documents of the Spring 09 collection, complete with original fabric swatches. For Your Eyes Only…

MFSC VS-09 Specs Sheet

MFSC VS-09 Specs Sheet

 

MFSC PS-09 (a)

MFSC PS-09 (a)

MFSC PS-09 (b)

MFSC PS-09 (b)

MFSC JS-09

MFSC JS-09

MFSC 645

MFSC 645

MFSC SS-09

MFSC SS-09

Mister Freedom ®, MFSC ®, Sugar Cane ® are registered Trademarks protected by International Intellectual Property Laws. All infringements will be prosecuted to the full extent of those laws.