Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.64 LHT.
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Left-Hand Twill selvedge denim.
mfsc Sportman catalog SS2020.
Made in USA.
We named our popular classic five-pocket jeans the “Californian” because they are made in California, USA. The MF® Californian comes in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674.
The Californian family grows every season (see recent timeline here), often according to how lucky we get scoring interesting New Old Stock denims.
The first installment of mfsc Spring 2020 is the Californian LOT.64 LHT. This edition features an attractive and quite rare 13 Oz. left-hand twill denim, milled in Greensboro, N.C., by the legendary Cone Mills.
LHT weave is distinct from its more commun right-hand counterpart, as it displays a wale diagonally-going from left to right, as opposed to, you guessed it, right to left. Those familiar with vintage Lee® jeans will relate to this specific weave, as LHT denim has been the fabric of choice for many H.D. Lee classics, such as their iconic 101-J, Storm Rider jacket or Rider Jeans.
Left-hand twill denims come with their specificities, including a tightly-wound indigo warp (resulting in a softer hand), and a white weft more prevalent on the face (resulting in a lighter shade of denim fabric). Fading properties also differ, and well-worn LHT denim tends to display less high contrast than RHT. However, connoisseurs and lucky owners of authentic vintage faded Lee® specimen will attest to the very attractive subtle patina. In all honesty, we haven’t had time to “beat-up” a Lot.64 LHT yet, but the HQ will keep everyone posted.
The pocket bags are cut from a fancy indigo/white woven plaid NOS fabric.
The Lot.64 pattern is our most popular cut, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise, a silhouette inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans with a 1960’s twist.
If our 64 pattern has been fairly consistant throughout the years, the specific drape/weight/color of each denim does alter the silhouette of each model. Visually, this season’s NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. LHT release has a slightly more generous leg than the recently-issued 16 Oz. Midnight denim Lot.64 MD. The fit is somewhat closer to our Lot.54 than other Lot.64s, so please consider sizing down if you are set on the usual Lot.64 silhouette, and if the rinsed measurements work for you.
The Californian LOT.64 LHT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from NOS American denim fabric.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo Left-Hand Twill denim, white/red line selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags: NOS 100% cotton indigo/white woven plaid fabric.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS indigo/white woven plaid 100% cotton pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge buttonhole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original MF® silver-color ‘oxidized’ metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (red).
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
All the Californian blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will technically shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
This specific Californian Lot.64 LHT edition is cut with a generous waist (referred to as “vanity sizing”), and a rinsed W32 will end-up measuring closer to 33 inches.
The Waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit.
I opted for a W31 with this model (my current size in MF® Californians), for a comfortable top block and generous straight leg silhouette. The resulting fit is closer to that of the Lot.54BB than our classic Lot.64. I personally could have gone down to a W30, but decided to stick to W31.
For those partial to the usual slimmer silhouette of the 64s, and should the rinsed measurements work out, consider sizing down on the LOT.64 LHT.
As with all denim twills, subtle shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please note that, for this model, soaking in hot water or using an electric clothes dryer will hardly result in extra shrinkage after the initial cold soak.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. (soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)
 
CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
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2010 LOT.54 (W32), 2013 LOT.64 (W30), 2019 LOT.54BB (W32)
Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.54BB
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Selvedge Denim.
mfsc Sportman catalog FW2019.
Made in USA.
Sometime in 2010, we released our first-born “Californian” into the wild. This was the MF® Californian LOT.54 blue jeans, all made in USA, cut from a New Old Stock Cone Mills 12 Oz. selvedge denim. If our initial contribution to the crowded world of the classic five-pocket jeans had absolutely zero impact on the Xintang denim industry, it is always a treat for us to spot one of our “M” and pocket patch in a crowd. Many thanks to everyone who adopted the “Californian” over the years, we know there are many options out there.
After the LOT.54’s success, followed a “spectacular plethora” (dixit our friend Daniel) of releases and fits, in a timeline outlined here.
For Fall 2019, we dusted-off that old LOT.54 pattern and paired it with another NOS Cone Mills goodie, a handsome 13Oz. denim twill with an old-school indigo blue hue warp, and a white/red line selvedge ID.
We borrowed the buckle-back cinch of the LOT.44, slapped it on there, and are calling this release the LOT.54BB. We tricked-out the rear by incorporating our classic Buckaroos printed cloth patch under the back cinch strap, traditionally stitching the label on top of the waistband/back-yoke but under the center belt loop.
Another cosmetic detail is the addition of an inside blank “name tag” attached to the pocket bag, opposite of the traditional coin pocket, for no other reason than finding the outside display of yellow/orange/white contrast stitching quite attractive. We’re vain like that.
The pocket bags of this 2019 edition are cut from a sturdy NOS cotton canvas, in a complementing warm rusty red color.
The fit of the Californian LOT.54BB is similar to the original LOT.54, with a roomy leg, generous waist and high rise, for those into a fuller 40’s-50’s period silhouette. If after a slimmer leg, but still with a vintage vibe, please see our more tapered Californians LOT.64, LOT.74 and LOT.674.
The Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.54BB are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo twill denim, white/red line selvedge ID, with a traditional indigo blue hue warp.
Pocket Bags: NOS 100% cotton canvas, rusty red color.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Traditional selvedge leg outseam.
* Buckle-back cinch strap, with concealed denim selvedge.
* New Old Stock cotton canvas pocket bags, rusty red color.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* “Buckaroos” printed cloth label stitched under cinch and rear belt loop.
* Inside “name tag” cloth label.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly shank buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® yellow paper pocket flasher.
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.54BB comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
* Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
* Spin dry and line dry.
* Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
This specific 13 Oz. Cone Mills denim twill is considered sanforized (= pre-shrunk at the milling stage), so our usual recommended pre-soak procedure will not have much impact on the jeans other than a bit of puckering and roping due to the all-cotton stitching, the soaking also revealing a slightly more vibrant blue denim color.
The LOT.54BB pattern features a high rise and a full leg, with somewhat of a vintage 40’s-50’s period silhouette. For slimmer legs, please see our more tapered Californians LOT.64, LOT.74 and LOT.674.
On the boys-band fit photo, left to right, Peter is sporting a pristine original 2010 edition LOT.54 (Waist 32), Daniel is looking spectacular in his 2013 edition LOT.64 (Waist 30), and I’m breaking-in a fully cinched LOT.54BB early sample (W32, will probably size down to W31 with production.)
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.(Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)
 Mister Freedom® 2010 Californian LOT.54 (W32), 2013 LOT.64 (W30), 2019 LOT.54BB (W32) CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Before washing, turn the jeans inside-out to avoid indigo color marbling. Machine wash in cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
 MF® Cowboy Jacket (Malibu denim), VEB Leather veg-tan belt, Californian Lot.64E rinsed, Road Champs. 
Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIA Blue Jeans, Lot.64 ??
Special 2016 ELECTION Edition, NOS Cone selvedge 16.5 Oz denim
Made in USA, Fall 2016.
Our popular five pocket Californian Lot.64 pattern gets a special Presidential treatment this Fall 2016!
To mark the upcoming 2016 United States Presidential Election, we decided to issue a limited edition Lot.64 “Election” model.
Same fit and cut than its Lot.64 predecessors (the original 13 3/4 Oz. edition, the Uncle Sam issue, the Okinawa “Advisor’ issue, and the Lot.654 hybrid) but a new tough 16.5 Oz. skin, and a few apropos patriotic cosmetic bells and whistles.
The denim we hunted down for the project is our heaviest ounce to date in the Mister Freedom® five-pocket jeans Sportsman department. This limited batch of sturdy indigo denim twill features a white selvedge ID with a red line. It is New Old Stock, milled by Cone Mills in the USA. Beware, this one is a real bleeder…
The pocket bags are cut from limited yardages of 100% cotton New Old Stock vintage canvas, some printed with stars, some with stripes. The limited exclusive run of Californian Lot.64 “Election” we saved for our MF® Los Angeles HQ features pocket bags using both fabrics, a nice colorful patriotic combo of stars and stripes. Now you too can strip in public with confidence.
Our classic orange & yellow stitching combo features red & white thread accents, noticeably in the waist and bottom hems. For the occasion, the usual MF® leather patch is left unbranded and blank. DIY branding touch for those into displaying their political inclination, pet name or favorite band. The untreated natural leather patch is originally pinkish but will tan to a warmer color and get patina overtime.
The fit is our classic Lot.64 silhouette, a straight, slightly tapered leg with a mid to high rise.
In order to generate hate mail (bring it on at sales@misterfreedom.com) we opted for a shorter inseam on this batch, as we had done years ago with the original Californian Lot.54. A deal breaker for many taller individuals, it is also bound to aggravate the BRMC crowd.
We decided to limit the length of our Lot.64 “Election” to keep the ‘spirit’ of old hand-me-down blue jeans, often seen worn (and now found) on the short side, a vintage vibe that ‘repro’ jeans rarely convey.
With five pocket jeans these days, opting for no cuffs or a subtle one-inch turn-up in a descent leg length is quite the refreshing touch. A ‘solid leg’ silhouette might also be more suitable for grown-ups not into the contemporary trend of hipster denim stacking and unnecessary roll-up flashing. But, like political opinions, to each his own!
Well, friends, keep it civil this election season… and may the best candidate for America and its Allies win ✌?
?? ¡Go USA! ??
The Californian LOT.64 “Election” blue jeans are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by traditional 1950′s-1960’s era blue jeans, traditional fit, slightly tapered leg.
FABRIC:
Heavy weight NOS Cone Mills blue denim, 16.5 Oz., white/red line selvedge ID, sanforized. Milled in the USA.
Pocket bags: Contrasting NOS heavy 100% canvas, printed with patriotic stars and stripes.
Note: This denim croaks (bleeds) quite extensively, and will leave indigo blue stains on other pieces of clothing, furniture, car seats etc… This is temporary yet real.
DETAILS:
* Vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseams.
* Heavy canvas pocket bags, each bag featuring a patriotic print pattern of stars or stripes.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Unbranded natural cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with special 2016 Election red and white accents.
* Contrasting and un-matching red and white bottom hem chainstitch.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for reinforcement.
* Original patriotic MF® paper pocket flasher.
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian Lot.64 “Election” comes UN-WASHED.
We recommend our usual method of an original cold soak (30mn to 2 hours), occasional hand agitation, spin dry and hang dry. For the gritty, and for an extremely pleasant experience, wear the jeans while still slightly damp, walk around a bit to get them to shape, crease, and adapt to your body. Don’t sit in the white sofa or rub the walls. Hang to fully dry. They will be hard as a rock the next day, and, for yet another pleasant experience, try to put them on and walk… Good luck.
The 16.5 Oz. denim is pretty much sanforized, meaning it hardly noticeably shrinks. These Lot.64 “Election” jeans are true-to-size, meaning that if you are an actual measured waist 32 (wrap a cloth measuring tape around your waistline), you should get a size 32. For a slimmer seat, I went for a W31 on these, as opposed to my usual W32 in the Californian series.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (i.e. minimal shrinkage). If these measurements do not work for you, things won’t get better by boiling or hard-washing the jeans… You will just ruin your washing machine and aggravate your wife.
CARE:
Wash your jeans when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Due to the weight and stiffness of the 16.5Oz. denim, be very careful when laundering using a small home washing machine.
Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. This denim crocks (bleeds) quite extensively, and will leave indigo blue stains on other pieces of clothing, furniture, car seats etc…
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available RAW (sanforized)
Sizes
W28 x L31
W29 x L31
W30 x L31
W31 x L31
W32 x L33
W33 x L33
W34 x L33
W36 x L33
W38 x L33
Retail $329.95
Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016
 Perso Lot.74 blue jeans worn for about 2 months, laundered once.
Lot.74 Californian blue jeans, NOS Cone denim.
“The Sportsman” catalog, made in USA, Fall 2015.
Immediately following its recent New Old Stock wheat denim release, the new Mister Freedom® Lot.74 swept the nation overnight…
Rumors of ferocious shopping stampedes have been relayed by the media, said rumors now backed by strong unequivocal photographic evidence.
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Salut les filles…
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“OOOMG, the Lot.74 has arrived!!” (Courtesy “Confessions of a Shopaholic” 2009 Walt Disney Studios)
To mark the addition of the Lot.74 blue jeans pattern to the Sportsman catalog for Fall 2015, we thought of simultaneously issuing a compañero to our wheat denim amigo. Fresh-off a coveted California factory, this run is made from a handsome 12.5 Oz blue denim, limited yardage of NOS from Cone Mills found in a local warehouse. This righthand twill denim is of an attractive shade of indigo blue, featuring a white and red stripe selvedge ID.
The Californian Lot.74 is not just another iteration of previous Californian lots, and departs quite a bit from its Lot.64 or Lot.654 predecessors. For one, the fit has been trimmed significantly for a 60’s McQueenesque vibe, with a fitted top block and a straight leg from the knee on down. The Lot.74 are no jeggings (aka denim tights for the connoisseur) however, those being readily available elsewhere, raw and in all kinds of fierce and desirable chemical washes.
The lot.74 might be a good option for ‘smaller frame’ fit individuals looking for a period-proportioned seat/thigh/calf silhouette.
The keen eye will notice that McQueen, at an alleged 5’9 ½ and a waist 32 according to Western Costumes, opted to have some of his classic dungarees taken in from the knee down to achieve that specific visual balance. During his Johnny Strabler days in “The Wild One” (1953), Brando, at 5’8 and in a body-type league of his own, had the Columbia Pictures’ Costume Department alter his 501® from the knee down as well. Part of the popularity of the traditional five pocket jeans pattern, through decades of ever-changing fashion, might reside in its easily-altered outseam.
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Mc Queen in jerry-rigged denim (photo William Claxton 1965)
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Brando in altered denim (1953) Courtesy Getty Images.
The addition of an old school “Gripper Zipper” to our Californian is a nod to the supposed improvement that zip-fly jeans were over their button-fly model counterparts. If H.D. Lee® introduced his 101z slide-fastener fly cowboy jeans in 1926, and the Levi’s® suits-controlled design team started playing with them around 1951, it is not until the 1960’s that zippers evolved into a popular feature on most blue jeans. Today, zipper jeans are in general considered unfashionable and usually pooh-poohed by denimheads, somewhat of a convincing argument in itself to release a MF® version.
The rear pockets of the Lot.74 have been subjected to an overhaul, and are inspired by 60’s-70’s denim pocketing rather than the 1950’s influence of our original Lot.54. If the rear pockets top reinforcement stitching is still there, we have removed the hidden rivets, saving the Planet one copper rivet at a time.
The denim fabric selvedge is still inconspicuously featured on the outseam, the watch pocket fold and the overlocked fly placket. Our choice of pocket bag fabric for this season’s Lot.74 Californian is a solid navy blue 100% cotton pique, part of a NOS grouping of French workwear fabrics scored a while back.
The Sportsman “Californian” LOT.74 blue jeans are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by traditional five-pocket type 1960′s-1970’s era blue jeans, traditional slim fit, straight leg from the knee down. The Lot.74 is our slimmest five-pocket jeans cut, and is as slim as we’ll go, with a silhouette similar to that of the Malibu’s and a mid-high rise.
FABRIC:
Limited New Old Stock Cone Mills indigo blue denim, 12.5 Oz., white/red line selvedge ID, unsanforized. Milled in the USA.
Pocket bags: French NOS navy blue cotton pique, from an old stock of French workwear fabric lot.
DETAILS:
* Five pockets.
* Zip fly, vintage-style brass ‘Gripper Zipper” pull.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Re-designed rear pocket shape, featuring MF® original “M” stitch in banana yellow.
* Original debossed leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Original brass cast MF® branded waist button.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Fabric selvedge featured on leg outseams, zip fly placket and coin pocket fold.
* Original MF® ‘smoke-free Johnny’ pocket paper flasher.
* Made in sunny California, USA.
SIZING/FIT
The Californian LOT.74 comes UN-WASHED and cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 “Californian” actually measures about 34” x 36½” when raw, and will shrink to approx. 32” x 34” after soak/dry.
Although some opt to wear their jeans raw and never wash them, a more practical and sensible option seems to be the cold soak/line dry/wear-when-damp to set creases protocole.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear a slim-fitting but comfortable tagged W32 in the Lot.74.
We recommend getting your usual waist size, although proper fit is a subjective matter and everyone has their own idea of what looks good.
As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
CARE:
Wash your jeans when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
When cleaning is required, machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Please note that the debossed artwork on the leather patch will naturally ‘flatten out’ when soaked in water. As devastating as it is, this is normal.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available RAW/unwashed/Un-sanforized
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L34
W38 x L34
Retail $299.95
Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
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