Here is the final installement (5 of 5) of Mister Freedom® latest Collection entitled “American Sportswear”. Introducing the CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans, Lot.44
Same drill than with the Ranch Blouse, we have selected some New Old Stock selvedge denim from our archives to make the Californian Lot.44
Cut and sew has been a challenge, as previously mentioned, but we are happy with the results. One “five pocket” pattern in about 35 different denim… 28” to 33” width old shuttle loom made selvedge denim, collected throughout years of warehouses digging. Origin Japan and USA. Click on scan below for approximate colors and selvedge IDs
The pattern of the Californian Lot.44 is very similar to that of the Californian Lot.54, with a few design modifications:
* PATTERN: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950′s era blue jeans.
* FABRICS: The assorted New Old Stock selvedge denim limited edition is only available at the MF® Beverly Blvd location, and at “Bazar” (1108c Abbot Kinney Blvd.,Venice, CA 90291, USA, phone 310-314-2101).
* Lot.44 vs. Lot.54 DETAILS: The Lot.44 has an added back cinch strap, longer inseam, yellow “M” pocket and side stitching, different fabric pocket bags.
* POCKETING: 100% cotton NOS stripe ticking denim. Some bag bags are made with indigo/white plaid twill. Random.
* FIT: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat.
These blue jeans are NOT skinnies, as we don’t dig the ‘men in tights’ or “girlfriend’s jeans” thingy.
* CONSTRUCTION: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Riveted back pockets with ‘zigzag flush’ stitching. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* STITCHING: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow, non colorfast.
* TRIMS: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* LABELING: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* PACKAGING: In the USA, the Californian Lot.44 comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
* SHRINKAGE: All fabrics are RAW and unwashed. Due to the assorted denim, shrinkage is all over the place. Please refer to chart below, where we shrink tested some of the jeans (cold soak for about 30mn, no agitation. Turned imside out and machine dryed for about 20mn, until 80% dried). Measurements are approximate.
Please don’t BOIL your jeans, as you will alter the color of the denim and ruin the leather patch.
The Californian Lot.44 comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage (more or less).
Example: A tagged W32 x L36 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 38” before wash. Some denim will shrink to approx. 32” x 36” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit, so you can size up or down.
WASHING: To each his own, but we recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.
Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.44 is available RAW/unwashed.
Available tagged Sizes:
W30 × L34
W31 × L36
W32 × L36
W33 × L36
W34 × L36
W36 × L36
W38 × L36
(see “Shrinkage” section above for the low-down)
Retail $289.95
Available here.
Please call (323) 653-2014 or mail [email protected] for more info.
Thank you for your support.
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MF® RB, mix NOS denims ©2010
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Original MF® Ranch Blouse sketch ©2010
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MF® Ranch Blouse “Rodeo”, 2010
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MF® Ranch Blouse, CL, about 6 months wear ©2011
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Perso Ranch Blouse, evolution after two years ©2013
The Made in USA “Ranch Blouse”NOS is in… Yippee-ki-Yay 😉
Our MFSC Ranch Blouse is an homage to the denim jacket models that have been covering Americans’ backs for over 100 years.
No wheel reinvented here, just our humble version of that ‘closet must-have’.
Pull out the ol’ Texas Tuxedo or mix it with chinos, slacks… or our Speedway jeans… as you know it’s a pretty versatile garment.
Now, on production: To make things more challenging (why do easy when you can do complicated?) we decided to have the US prod of that jacket made of New Old Stock assorted denims from our archives. It did sound like a good idea at first 😉
Turns out, it has been a real challenge for the factory, and a real headache to control and process… No one has done it this way before (not boasting, just warning others!), and there is a reason for that: it’s brutal.
There is no way to describe the individual fabrics, nor to figure out the exact Oz. The above scan is an approximate reference for selvedge ID’s and shades of colors (although the scan makes some denim look more ‘black’ that in reality.) Ya ready?
SPECS:
PATTERN: MFSC pattern, an homage to the pioneer denim brands…
FABRICS: All 100% cotton NOS selvedge assorted raw denims, different origins, USA and Japan
Most options are indigo blue denim, but a few other colors are also available such as NOS Black (lighter Oz.), Brown, Stripe Twill (aka Rodeo Blouse)…
DETAILS:
* Original 30’s style ’round collar’, with under layer zigzag stitching.
* Double unbalanced front pocketing.
* Original Mister Freedom “oxydized” metal buttons.
* Cinch back strap, with NOS metal prong buckle.
* Front expansion pleats, when the belly just can’t take it anymore.
* Copper rivet pocket and cuffs reinforcement, backed by leather washer.
* Button panel fold showing original denim selvedge ID on the inside of the jacket.
PACKAGING: In the USA, the blouse comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Measurements in below chart are approximate because there are always slight variations in measuring a bulky surface.
There is ONE pattern grading for each size. Shrinkage is specific to each denim, and we will soon do rinse tests on groupings of 50+ yards and will try to post a % for some of the groupings. We anticipate an average shrinkage of most RAW denims from 3% to 8%, depending on water temperature, drying method and textiles specifics. Proportionally, there is often more noticeable shrinkage in length than width with RAW denim. Also, there will be natural minimal stretching back and forth with subsequent wear/rinse…
We recommend an original 10 mn cold soak, no agitation, spin dry, ‘wear to shape’ and line drying.
FIT PHOTOS: I am wearing a size 38, on/off for about 6 months. One original rinse.
NOTE: The worn jacket in some of the shots is for reference only. This is NOT how the “Ranch Blouse” comes out of the box. It is only sold RAW/unwashed in the USA, so you can, not only start your own natural fading/wearing process, but do the right thing for our rivers by NOT purchasing factory chemically pre-distressed garments.
Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.
Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes: 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail: $299.95
Call the store at (323) 653-2014 or mail [email protected] to get yours while they last.
We ship internationally.
We thank you for your support.
You are the champions, my friends 😉
The evolution of one pair our Made in USA “Californian” Blue Jeans, after about 5 months of regular wear and abuse…
Those jeans started being worn raw for a few days. Then a quick cold soak for 10 minutes, hung dry and worn still damp.
Four washing cycles during the five months period, cold water, very minimal soap, turned inside-out, no dryer.
All the original specs here. Some sizes are SOLD OUT.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 is available RAW/unwashed.
Tagged Sizes 28×32, 29x32, 30×32, 31×32, 32×34, 33x34, 34×34, 36×34, 38×34. (see “Sizing” in the specs link for the low-down)
Retail $249.95
Call (323) 653-2014 or mail [email protected] or [email protected] to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
The MF® CALIFORNIAN, long awaited-for MISTER FREEDOM® first five-pocket style blue jeans are in the house! All made in USA from American un-sanforized Dead Stock (NOS) indigo blue 12 oz. denim…
SPECS:
* Pattern: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans.
* Fabric: New Old Stock American made selvedge indigo denim. White/red stripped selvedge ID. Un-sanforized. Approx. 12oz. square yard weight. Guaranteed to age and beautify with repeat wear.
* Pocketing: 100% cotton sturdy Bedford cord type woven NOS fabric. Natural un-bleached white.
* Fit: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat.
“Now, listen, ya don’t go any one special place. That’s cornball style…Ya just go (SNAP)”
* Construction: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Top back pockets covered riveting and ‘zigzag flush’ reinforcement. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* Stitching: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast.
* Trims: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* Labeling: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* Shrinkage: 8% or less, with minimal shrinkage with cold rinse/hang dry (recommended) and maximum shrinkage with hot wash/full dryer cycle. As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur depending on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
* Sizing: The Californian comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage.
Example: A tagged W32 x L34 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 36” before wash. They will shrink to approx. 32” x 34” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear from a W30 to W32 depending on my mood/style of the pants (I have a W30 on the photo, about 2 months wear.)
NOTE:
1) On length:
To avoid the effect of the “accordion” legs, typical of the Japanese denim replica silhouettes, we chose graduated length for the Californian. Many pairs of vintage denim are often seen worn “as found”, ie. sometimes borderline too short on taller individuals. We prefer this to the ‘endless’ legs characteristic of all new denim production.
If the jeans are too long, cuff them (sloppy rolls or folded) if you like cuffs. If they are just or a tad too short, a narrow single fold cuff still looks cool imo. Just wear good footwear!
If they look like bermudas on you, then it’s not meant to be…
2) On washing:
We recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.
The “wear ’em raw” method is great too (makes for amazing wear), but you might want to size down (if you are a measured waist 30”, wear a tagged W29), and never hit water! Even when worn raw, denim will shrink/stretch with heat/tension, so your jeans will adapt to your body over time.
3) Leather patch:
The debossed MF® pocket leather patch will lose its details/colour with washing in warm/hot water (for those of you who insist on hot soaking their jeans…) It will dry out and crack overtime, and is intended to do so.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 is available RAW/unwashed.
Tagged Sizes
W28 × L32 SOLD OUT
W29 × L32 SOLD OUT
W30 × L32 SOLD OUT
W31 × L32 SOLD OUT
W32 × L34 SOLD OUT
W33 × L34 SOLD OUT
W34 × L34 SOLD OUT
W36 × L34 SOLD OUT
W38 × L34 SOLD OUT
(see “Sizing” section above for the low-down)
Retail $249.95
Call (323) 653-2014 or mail [email protected] to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
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