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“El Americano” Waistcoat. Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection

: West Side Story. The End.

“El Americano” Waistcoat
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection

We introduced the concept behind our “Viva la Revolución” mfsc Collection during Spring 2013.

For the first chapter of this on-going saga for Fall 2013, let’s welcome a new character, el Americano...
Aptly nicknamed due to his whereabouts North of the Rio Grande, not for his barista skills, our gringo fought alongside Mexican revolutionaries during the 1910-1920 Revolution.
More often for financial gratification than ideological convictions, foreign soldiers of fortune from around the World joined the ranks of the Maderistas, Villistas and other rebel armies. They earned nicknames as colorful as ‘Dynamite Slim’ or ‘El Diablo’, which allowed them to keep the greetings of an introduction brief…

El Americano was special. Unlike some of his compañeros of the ‘Gringo Rag-Tag Battalion‘, and although a feared fighter, he fancied being stylishly clad at all times. As others remarked on his unlikely field attire, he would retort: “Hombre, I always dress to kill.”
Someone sneered, once. Just once.
Such the poet was El Americano.

Anyways, back to the reality of 2013…
Our “El Americano” waistcoat was inspired by several vintage early 1900’s European fancy pieces. Its lapel style is often a trademark of early Old West portrait photography. The pattern is a combination of fancy tailoring tricks and details.
We have developed no less than 4 entirely different fabrics for this waistcoat, all milled and dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Brown Duck, golden brown cotton sateen back.
b) Grey Covert Stripe, black cotton sateen back.
c) Indigo dyed Corduroy, black cotton sateen back.

The last developed fabric is an indigo yarn covert twill that was originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s trousers from the 1890’s. The most unlikely sight, although I’ve seen quite my share of unusual textiles used as linings in early tailoring. I always love discovering ‘hidden treasures’ when opening up a vintage garment, such as a ‘crazy’ lining in a formal piece. They were often not a fashion statement, rather the need to use up fabric left over from a previous project, at times when discarding perfectly fine supplies was not a National sport.

Vintage inspiration Mister Freedom® ©2013 (19)

Vintage trousers lining

This 8.5 Oz. selvedge indigo fabric is the inner lining of “El Americano”, for its three options.
The outer back piece is a tightly woven 100% cotton sateen, matching the body.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by early European style tailored waistcoats typical of early Old West attire.

FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930’s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled…
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military. Yes, we look everywhere for inspiration. The only place off limit being what other contemporary brands do.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed.

DETAILS
* Slim silhouette, Old West waistcoat style. Angled front panels and curved back vented one-piece panel.
* Small round lapel
* Off-set shoulder construction
* High buttoned style (7 buttons).
* Three front pockets
* 100% cotton sateen tonal back panel.
* Underarm gusset.
* Engraved coconut wood buttons, aka ivory nut, aka corozo (and no, not chorizo as my spell check suggests.)
* Full adjustable cinch back with French vintage New Old Stock metal slide buckle.
* Unbleached cotton sail cloth pocket lining.
*100% cotton tonal stitching.

SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that desirable fresh-off-the-shelf look. As your waistcoat dries, fold and shape the collar to your liking, for a skinnier or fatter lapel (see the difference on the fit pix.)

For the Indigo Corduroy “El Americano” waistcoat, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments, or sleeping face down on a fancy white sofa fully clothed.
Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.

I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “El Americano” waistcoat.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage.

Available raw/unwashed
Sizes
36 small
38 medium
40 large
42 Xlarge
44 XXlarge

Retail:
a) Brown Duck $439.95
b) Grey Covert Stripe $439.95
c) Indigo Corduroy $459.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.

Mister Freedom® Fall 2013 preview “Viva la Revolución” MFSC Collection

Introducing the second chapter of our collaboration collection with Sugar Cane Co “Viva la Revolución”. This Fall/Winter volume follows the previously Spring/Summer story you can read about here.
As always, the inspiration for this collection is quite eclectic, near and far from the Rio Grande in the first thirty years of the 20th Century. I will turn to full rambling mode for each item as production hits our HQ, sometime in Sept/Oct 2013.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

The Fall 2013 line up will include:

* “EL AMERICANO” Jacket:
Three different fabrics
a) Brown duck selvedge canvas
b) Indigo dyed wide wale Corduroy
c) Grey ‘stripe’ heavy canvas

* “EL AMERICANO” Trousers:
Three different fabric a) b) c)

* “EL AMERICANO” Waistcoat:
Three different fabric a) b) c)

* “DROVER BLOUSE”:
A special edition in indigo dyed Melton wool.

* “RANCHERO” Shirt:
Two different fabrics
a) Indigo/Red woven plaid, cotton-linen selvedge
b) Indigo covert, selvedge

* “EL JEFFE” Henley (no, it’s not a sweater):
Two different fabrics
a) Natural heather brushed cotton fleece.
b) Gray heather brushed cotton fleece.

Muchas Gracias Friends 😉

Mister Freedom® MFSC Fall 2012 (Part 2): The “FARO WAISTCOAT”

FARO WAISTCOAT (Men of the Frontier MFSC FW2012)

Moving right along our journey West… Introducing the FARO WAISTCOAT, as the second installment of the “Men of the Frontier” MFSC Fall 2012 Collection, following its original Spring 2012 chapter. The first Fall 2012 installment was the Frontier Chinos.

This time we took our hombres away from the open range or work place, and into the dark oil lamp lit saloons of the early American Frontier. Gamblers’ halls and other fine whiskey pouring establishments were the main source of social entertainment for the hard living bunch at the edge of the Old World and the New.
In comes our Faro waistcoat… With its origin in 1700’s France, Faro became a popular single deck card game in the American West of the 1800’s. Until it was gradually supplanted by the game of Poker in the early 1910’s, Faro had been responsible for small fortunes lost and won, and a few gun fights.
Waistcoats were a permanent feature in old period photography, at times when looking your best in public involved tucking and buttoning up your shirt, along with wearing your britches in such a manner that only you knew the maker of your skivvies. A dress code seemed to often apply to most, whether coming off a horse, out of a mine, bank, jail… and no matter how wealthy or educated you were.

Lest I drift any further, let’s mention that the design of our Faro waistcoat is inspired by a late 1800’s vintage French silk velvet vest, high buttoned and narrow collar, that could have been sported by a card dealer, gambler or gunslinger in a lively 1905 saloon. We combined several elements of early vest patterns, outer and inner panels and piecing, and came up with this, if we may say so ourselves, elegant gentleman waistcoat.

As always, being an expert at losing your pay bucking the tiger or playing an extra on Deadwood is not required to wear our “Men of the Frontier” gear. Blending clothes tastefully is key to having your own non-contrived style, staying clear from the ‘costume’ look, although all that is of course very subjective.
If we don’t recommend pairing this Faro waistcoat with a track suit and Crocs, we leave it up to you to make it look good with denim jeans, cotton shirt, trousers from your existing wardrobe… The versatile collar can be folded for a deeper cut look. I often like wearing vests/jackets with only the top two buttons closed, a trick often seen in vintage photography, allowing easier reach to the trousers pockets.

Two fabric options are available (apples and oranges, impossible to compare.) Both textiles were woven in Japan, in limited batches, exclusively for MFSC®.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted as a one-time limited batch by Sugar Cane Co in Japan.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC®, inspired by late 1800’s gents’ waistcoats. High buttoned, small lapel, slim snug silhouette.

FABRIC:
FRONT PANEL: Two options
a) Deep rich navy blue color, 100% cotton corduroy, midwale (9 wale/inch), 11 Oz. Woven in Japan.
b) “Gun Powder” black (between field grey and dark laurel green), wide HBT (herringbone twill), selvedge, 20% Cotton/80% Linen blend, 15 Oz. Woven in Japan
BACK PANEL: Black all cotton sateen.
INNER LINNING: Combination all cotton HBT (ochre color) exclusively woven for MFSC®, and indigo blue cotton poplin.

DETAILS:
* Intricate early waistcoat panel construction. Tailor made style.
* Back cinch strap with French New Old Stock (NOS) metal slide buckle.
* Eight button front, brown corrozo.
* Two front welt pockets
* 100% cotton thread tonal stitching.

PACKAGING: Sturdy cardboard box with MF® original artwork. Please re-use.

SHRINKAGE/SIZING: Both fabric options come raw/unwashed.
After shrinkage, both fabrics will shrink to the same specs.

We recommend an initial cold rinse and line dry. The vests fit true to size. I am a 38 and wear a 38 in the Faro vest.
Just as you wouldn’t boil a fancy suit, please treat with care or take to your environmentally friendly dry cleaner for future cleaning.

Available RAW/unwashed

Sizes 36 (small), 38 (medium), 40 (large), 42 (xlarge), 44 (xxlarge)
Retail $499.95

Call 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, friends.