cotton sateen « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt, cotton sateen edition, FW2022 mfsc HOOPER collection. Made in Japan.

Introducing three smashing Mister Freedom® Dude Rancher family members in finer-than-frog-hair cotton sateen for FW2023!

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt, cotton sateen edition.
FW2023 mfsc Survival School x Sportsman collection.
Made in Japan.

This is not exactly our first rodeo when it comes to “cowboy shirts.” The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA, introduced during Fall 2013, was our first traditional “western snap” shirt and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics. We discontinued that pattern.

Its much fancier successor, the all-original MF® “DUDE RANCHER”, is our second spin on the style. The pattern is inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts from our archives, each with specific variations of a style pioneered by Rockmount Ranch Wear legendary CEO Jack Weil starting circa 1946. “Papa Jack”, as he was called, is credited as the father of the modern Western shirt, and the first “designer” to opt for snap button closure, vs. the earlier 1930s shank button styles.

Our DUDE RANCHER pattern was of course twisted MF® style, and has become a Mister Freedom® staple since its 2019 poplin debut in our catalog. It is today available in a wide range of old school fabrics.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back curved shoulder yokes, but we decided on arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt not too “Roy Rogers”, no offense to the Singing Cowboy belting it out on his steed Trigger.
Our playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
Another distinctive design choice are the painted metal snaps, reminiscent of sought-after vintage 1950s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell western shirts, as previously featured on the MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

Our fabric choice for this season is a nod to classic Lee® Westerner™ shirts, popular in the late 1950s/60s with dude ranch vacationers in search of a whiff of a romantic rugged Old West, and “Urban Cowboys” set to deck themselves out in western fashion alike. In pop music culture, “Cosmic Country” in the 1960s, and a revival in “Country & Western” in the 197os also brought some exposure to the style. I’ve always loved old sateen Westerners, and scoring one was always thrilling during my rag-picking days.

Vintage 1960s Lee® Westerner™ shirt label.

Our choice of black rayon fabric as the collar band facing/shoulder yoke lining is a reference to fancy specimen by the now-defunct classic “Tem-Tex” label and their elaborate Texas-made cowboy shirts. Our recent “Hooper” edition Dude Ranchers — available in four finer-than-frog-hair 1950s style cotton corduroys — are riding on that fancy trail.

Our original cotton sateen DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt will pair well with any classic wardrobe, and look sharp with traditional denim blue jeans or dressier slacks.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER Western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Fancy 100% cotton sateen, 7 Oz., milled in Japan.
Three classic color options:
a) Ivory
b) Black
c) Sandstone (khaki)

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s western-style shirts.
* Original western-wear arcuate front and back yokes combo.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (paint will chip with age.)
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Intricate diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton high-count tonal stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The cotton sateen MF® DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.

Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.

I opted for a MEDIUM on this DUDE RANCHER sateen edition, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit. (I’m 5.7’’ approx. 145 Lbs.)
Please note that I tended to size down on earlier versions, so do refer to our sizing chart for approximate soaked measurements to properly dial in your size.
This is how we measure. Please use those guidelines to compare measurements of a garment of a similar style you own (i.e. a shirt), and that fits according to your liking.
When in doubt, reach out to the MF® Team sales@misterfreedom.com with your body measurements and fit expectations to get educated sizing recommendations.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® UTILITY Jacket, OG-107 cotton sateen, FW2023 msfc “Survival School”, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co UTILITY Jacket OG-107 sateen.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School”
Made in Japan.

Full credits to the folks at the “Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot” for coming up with this garment pattern circa 1941!
The design was adapted from civilian denim workwear styles popular at the time, and would briefly become the new US Army work/field jacket during the early years of WW2. The M-1941 jacket was issued in olive green HBT, under the moniker “Jacket, Herringbone Twill, Specification No. PQD 45.”
Incorporating commercial fashion designs in US military uniforms had become a thing in the late 1930s, as it was thought a “new look” would help boost morale for the troops, and instill “pride in uniform.”
The resulting modernized design of the M-1941 Utility Jacket proved fancier-than-needed in the field, not fully-practical in the front lines, and costly to manufacture. Additionally, intricate patterns and overly complicated tech-packs limited the amount of contractors able to deliver regulation uniforms on time, not an ideal situation during wartime production.
Read here for interesting specifics on WW2 military field uniforms.

: Eclectic US Army field jacket line-up (1943) (M1941 on right)

: GI Mule Skinners (1944) Courtesy Sam Cox

For us, that pattern was a perfect candidate to play with for one of our “might have been” MF® garments.
After updating the fit and tweaking a few things, we released a 2×1 denim version in 2015 (blog post), followed by a Melton wool/indigo twill CDO model.
For our Survival School venture, we thought of a matching top to the Mechanic Trousers, and the UTILITY Jacket pattern was selected as the companion of choice for a smashing OG-107 tuxedo! Right on time for the Holidays.
The fabric is a 9 Oz. vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, in that classic military shade of Olive Green we all love. Milled in 2024 as close as it gets to its 1952 GI ancestor (and I don’t mean the contemporary overly-slubby commercial renditions), our OG-107 cotton sateen is bound to age as gracefully as that of vintage fatigues.

The MF® UTILITY Jacket, OG-107 cotton sateen 2023 edition, is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Revisited pattern of the US Army Spec No. PQD 45 M-1941 UTILITY Jacket.

FABRIC:
100% cotton, vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, OG-107 color, 9 Oz., milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Revisited pattern of the classic US Army Spec No. PQD 45 M-1941 UTILITY jacket.
* Unlined, all clean seams.
* Elegant curved notch lapel.
* Waist length, complimenting one’s natural waist.
* Side cinch straps, mil-specs metal sliders.
* ‘Bat sleeve’ pattern with gusset for arm hole comfort.
* Double chest pockets, expanding box pleats.
* Back panel expansion pleats.
* Large inner chest pocket, locked in panel construction.
* ‘Burst of Glory’ type metal tack buttons, black. Color will chip with wear.
* Adjustable cuffs, fancy shirt-sleeve style.
* Chainstitch construction, 100% cotton thread, tonal.
* Woven rayon label “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” on the inside waistband, stamped sizing on neck.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:

The Mister Freedom® UTILITY Jacket OG-107 comes UN-WASHED, cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after the initial cold soak/line dry shrinking process. Recommended protocol:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.

Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.

This jacket is considered true-to-size.
At 5’7 ~145 lbs., I opted for a SMALL, my usual current size in mfsc jackets, with enough room for a Medalist sweatshirt.
The size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your clothes to fit. Measure a jacket of a similar style you own and compare to our size chart, reflecting rinsed measurements.
This is how we measure.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
Turn garment inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Excessive and irreversible shrinkage may result from using hot water and heat dryer.

Thank you for your support, and Happy Holidays!