Mister Freedom® CPO shirt and Naval Chinos, “SAN PABLO” Liberty Edition, Selvedge GB denim, mfsc Fall 2018

 

Mister Freedom® CPO Shirt & Naval Chinos, limited “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition.
Surplus collection mfsc Fall 2018.
Made in Japan.

What we have here is our elusive 2009 blue shirt pattern, familiar to the MF® OGs, and its Naval Clothing Tailor khaki-legged friend, both given the GB denim treatment.
After an epic 2016 apparition in a smashing OMG-so-stiff-it-makes-my-body-ache 11.7 Oz. indigo canvas fabric, the ol’ MF® blue CPO and Chinos are indeed turning green this Fall.

Mustering-up our best one-trick-pony skills and cow-milking mastery, this 2018 iteration features an old mfsc flame, the olive green 10 Oz. selvedge denim twill inspired by 1940’s-50’s British military utility fabric. This green denim was initially introduced in 2016 via the Garrison shirt and twill pants combo, during our exciting and controversial 2015 Saigon Cowboy season and its fierce keyboard snipers.
The traditional “Liberty” treatment to US Navy dress blues and other garments is by now familiar to all heritage clothing aficionados. We have often respectfully ‘played’ with that concept of custom concealed style extravaganza.
See gallery below for a brief visual recap.

This season, we decided to give a 1966 “The Sand Pebbles” classic movie twist to our fictional CPO and Chinos combo. For those interested in the historical background of Opium Wars, or intrigued by the sound of “… when U.S. warships patrolled China’s rivers…”, a condensed summary of the period can be found here.

So as to not get lost down the usual rabbit hole, we will leave authentic 1920’s stories of the U.S. Asiatic Fleet to military buffs, and refer you to Hollywood’s light version of things, for an excitement-filled evening with Jake Holman and the USS San Pablo patrolling the Yangtze in 1926.
You savvy?

The MF® CPO shirt and Naval Chinos “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co and the expert Toyo Enterprise team.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
“GB denim twill”: An olive green warp and natural weft 100% cotton twill, 10 Oz., orange color selvedge ID. Inspired by the fabric of 1940’s-50’s British military utility overalls and blouses. Milled in Japan.

MF® CPO shirt “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition:
DETAILS:
* Original mfsc shirt pattern initially released in 2008, freely inspired by period USN uniforms, 1930’s – 1940’s military shirting, naval custom tailoring and vintage “Chief Petty Officer” type shirts.
* Limited 2018 “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition, featuring vintage-style ’Liberty cuffs’, inspired by traditional local tailor artwork and custom embroidery, popular amongst U.S. Asiatic Fleet sailors.
* Concealed mfsc dragon embroidered patches on cuffs, 100% rayon.
* Concealed rainbow-colored chainstitch on the inside, a common feature of Asia-made traditional embroidered souvenir-type garments (robes, tunics, “party” jackets, etc…)
* Concealed chest passport/iPhone® pocket.
* Original MF® inverted box-pleat arcuate single chest pocket design.
* Chin strap.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Vintage style button front placket, anodized black snap closure.
* Waist closure and chin strap USN plastic anchor button.
* Reinforcement shoulder yoke, vintage uniform style.
* Arcuate back yoke.
* OD popeline facing.
* Curvy front and back shirt tails.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Designed in USA, manufactured in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The “San PABLO” CPO Shirt in GB denim comes raw/unwashed/loomstate.
We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
* As an optional step, wear the garment briefly while still damp, in order to shape it to your body and set your own creases. Hang and let fully dry (try to shape the gshirt on the hanger to look as if you are still wearing it.)

Following this routine, the garment will be quite stiff when dry, due to the re-activated starch contained in the denim fibers. This is perfectly normal and expected for fabrics not processed with unnecessary softeners at the milling stage. This temporary stiffness will rapidly subside with normal wear.
The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I am a Medium in most mfsc shirting and opted for a Medium in the “SAN PABLO” CPO shirt. No need to size up or down from your usual mfsc shirting size. The military-inspired and uniform-style cut emphasizes a broad shoulders and slim waist silhouette.
Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above soaking method.

CARE:
Wash your shirt when necessary.
We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the olive green denim warp side.
Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim shirt. Just enjoy the journey, and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully, without unnecessary prior factory-distressing process.

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

MF® Naval Chinos “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition:
DETAILS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Limited 2018 “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition, featuring a vintage-style ’Liberty’ patch, inspired by traditional local tailor artwork and custom embroidery, popular amongst U.S. Asiatic Fleet sailors.
* Concealed embroidered mfsc dragon 100% rayon patch on bottom leg, over-riding an un-marked military-style ID patch.
* Concealed rainbow-colored chainstitch on the inside, a common feature of Asia-made traditional embroidered souvenir-type garments (robes, tunics, “party” jackets, etc…)
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, featuring brown corozo wood buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan, designed in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The “SAN PABLO” Naval Chinos in GD denim come raw/unwashed/loomstate.
We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.

Following this routine, the garment will be quite stiff when dry, due to the re-activated starch contained in the denim fibers. This is perfectly normal and expected for fabrics not processed with unnecessary softeners at the milling stage. This temporary stiffness will rapidly subside with normal wear.
The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. These are true-to-size, and I wear a comfortable Waist 32, my usual size in mfsc trousers.
Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above soaking method.

CARE:
Wash your pants when necessary.
We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the olive green denim warp side.
Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim shirt. Just enjoy the journey, and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully, without unnecessary prior factory-distressing process.

Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.

Both CPO shirt and Naval Chinos available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store,  and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

 

Mister Freedom Liberty Issue CPO Shirt, Type 189ac, indigo canvas, Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection

fall2016-lookbook

cpo-liberty-indigo-edit1

cpo-liberty-indigo-edit

cuffs-cpo-2016-drawing

Early sketch for liberty cuffs.

cpo-189ac

cpo-189ac-1

 

clutch-mag-nov2016

As seen on color TV!

Mister Freedom CPO Shirt, “Type MFSC 189ac”
Indigo canvas, “Liberty Issue” Fall 2016
Made in Japan.

For our Fall 2016 10 Year mfsc Anniversary Collection, we decided to pull one of our popular shirt pattern out of retirement, namely the “Type MFSC 189” originally released sometime in 2008. This imagined “Chief Petty Officer” shirt emerged out of our first original mfsc scenario, “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor”, a capsule collection featuring the custom-made wardrobe of a fictitious Merchant Navy sailor in the 1930’s…
Story aside, this CPO shirt shows manufacturing prowess, and features intricate details and challenging construction.

Introduced in a 6 Oz. denim for SS2008, a fancy mermaid cuffs version “Liberty Issue” in 10 Oz. sugar cane fiber denim followed for FW2008, the Type MFSC 189md. For FW2010, a 10 Oz. woven pincheck “Off Duty” version was released (Type MFSC 189-od), along with a 10 Oz. double indigo ‘midnight twill’ (Type MFSC 189-mn).
For the nostalgia-prone, here are a few images of bygone MF® CPO Shirts models.

We decided to milk that coconut again for Fall 2016. This season’s edition of the CPO Shirt, the “Type MFSC 189ac”, is issued in a dry 11.7 Oz. indigo-dyed selvedge 100% cotton canvas, a fabric yarn-dyed and milled in Japan.

Like its 189md predecessor, the 189ac features Liberty Cuffs, an old naval tradition familiar to many fashionistas by now. Our 2016 vintage-style liberty cuffs are updated with an original MF® design, featuring – alert the PC brigade – a groping octopus sporting a bachi (the French Navy cover with its famous red pompon) chasing an attractive mermaid in her birthday suit. Flash the Splash at your own discretion.
For the adventurous type, these cuff linings do have a purpose and can be used as concealed storage for an emergency sawbuck folded in four. While bar hoping with the ship’s finest on exotic shores, and after noticing your wallet’s gone MIA at Suzy’s Red Dragon Den, this is a nice touch.

Another nice touch is the rainbow-color chainstitch adorning the inside of our CPO Shirt, a nod to period custom naval tailoring favorited by sailors of the Asiatic Fleet and discussed briefly while introducing the Mister Freedom® Liberty Crackerjack.

The Liberty Issue “Type MFSC 189ac” CPO Shirt is designed in California by Mister freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar cane Co.

FABRIC:
Sturdy and dry 100% cotton canvas, 11.7 Oz., dark and deep shade of double indigo warp and weft, white with red line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Due to heavy starching in the milling stages, this fabric feels quite stiff at first and even more so after the initial recommended cold soak/hang dry process. This is normal and will gradually subside with normal wash/wear cycles.

SPECS:
* Original mfsc pattern originally released in 2008.
* Limited “mfsc Anniversary” 2016 edition.
* Freely inspired by period USN uniforms, 1930’s – 1940’s military shirting, naval custom tailoring and vintage “Chief Petty Officer” type shirts.
* Vintage-style ’Liberty cuffs’, featuring original MF® artwork, colorful mermaid and octopus embroidered on a black 100% rayon background.
* Rainbow-color chainstitch on the inside.
* Concealed chest ‘passport’ pocket.
* Original inverted box-pleat arcuate single chest pocket.
* Chin strap.
* Contrasting underarm blue chambray gussets.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Vintage style button front placket, anodized black snap closure.
* Waist closure anchor button.
* Shoulder yoke, vintage uniform style.
* Curvy front and back shirt tails.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Designed in USA, manufactured in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The indigo canvas Type MFSC 189ac CPO Shirt comes raw/unwashed/loomstate.

We recommend an original 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, then spin dry cycle. While still damp, wear the shirt briefly to shape to your body (avoid white T-shirts), then hang dry.
The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I am a Medium in mfsc shirting and opted for a Medium in the CPO Shirt. No need to size up or down from your usual mfsc shirting size.
Refer to chart for soaked measurements.

cpo-189ac

CARE:
We recommend hand washing this garment when laundering becomes necessary. The loss of indigo dye will then be minimized.
If using a machine, turn the shirt inside-out to avoid marbling, use cold water and minimal eco-friendly detergent, and set to ‘delicate’. Line dry.
Please note that color crocking is to be expected, as it is the nature of indigo to rub off.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes:
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Retail $399.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016

Mister Freedom® Original veg-tan cowhide “STRONGMAN CUFF”

Mister Freedom® Strongman Cuff POSTER

Mister Freedom® original cowhide leather “STRONGMAN CUFF”

Inspired by turn of the Century carnival imagery, brawlers, loading dock workers and drudges, here is our take on what served the purpose of keeping your wrist protected while heavy lifting. Those cuffs were often matched with a kidney belt.
In the style of early traveling dentists’ advertising claims, besides instantly winning or earning you “fame, hearts, elections, bouts and the lottery“, they should make lifting that mouse off that pad a breeze 😉

We used high grade American veg-tan natural cowhide, equestrian quality NOS alloy steel roller buckles, hand set brass rivets, and an original MF® die cut one piece pattern.
The debossed MF® branding is concealed under the wrap around strap and doesn’t show when worn. Three holes on the double straps allow adjustment to your own wrist size. They might feel a bit tight and stiff at first, but when worn on a daily basis, the leather slightly stretches and ‘molds’ to your wrist. You will also get a nice natural patina with normal use and rubbing (no problems to wash your hands with it, just remove when sleeping, or in the shower.)
I wear mine with the buckles on the wrist outside, with the double straps on top, but you will figure out what works for you.

There are two veg-tan leather options: NATURAL (untreated) and BLACK (hand surface-dyed, not dipped, aka tea-core).
As with the rest of our products, we do not offer “aged” versions of those cuffs. Be a good sport, we did half the work, you do the rest 😉

Hand made in California, US of A.

Available RAW/untreated.
One size fits most.
Retail: $129.95

Call (323) 653-2014 or email [email protected] to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
Much obliged for your support.