Trousers ‘El Americano’, indigo corduroy, duck canvas, stripe covert. MFSC Fall 2013 final chapter.

El Americano Trousers Mister Freedom 2013

 

El Americano Trousers Mister Freedom 2013

 

El Americano Trousers Mister Freedom 2013

 

 

“Trousers El Americano”
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection

You are now familiar with “El Americano“, the friendly fella introduced in the Fall 2013 chapter of mfsc “Viva la Revolución” collection…

You had been warned that, following the three ‘El Americano’ waistcoats and blousons, the final custom order to François, ze recently immigrated tailor of La Calle Primera in Ensenada, included a set of trousers.
For those who have no idea what I am talking about, believing I should lay off the peyote at work, just you wait…

In the Fall of 1492, Cristóbal Libertad, the eldest son of an Andalucía born conquistadore whose horse had…
Por favor!!!!
Alright already… You deserve a break for the Holidays, so here is the short version, to everyone’s relief.

This is the ultimate chapter of our “Viva la Revolución” saga, spanning Spring and Fall 2013.
The style of these here trousers is inspired by 1920’s-30’s type gentlemen slacks, from the olden days when a man’s waist rose above hip bones and trousers were not yet used as tourniquet devices…
Wide waistband with skinny belt loops, pocket decorative arcuate stitch, adjustable side straps, ‘smiley’ back pockets are a few period elements we played with for the ‘El Americano Trousers’.

Three entirely different fabrics were developed for ‘El Americano Trousers’, all milled and dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Brown Duck (Medium-light weight, softer hand)
b) Grey Covert Stripe (medium weight, stiff)
c) Indigo vat dyed Corduroy (heavy weight, softer)
Although individual patterns were made for each fabric, and the cut remains the same, fabric thickness determines the drape of a garment. Heavier and stiffer fabrics having less drape (less flow) than lighter ones, the trousers in indigo corduroy will look/feel different from the brown duck version.

For pocket bags and waist lining, we are using our staple 8.5 Oz. indigo covert fabric previously introduced this season, an indigo dyed yarn covert twill, milled in Japan (originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s vintage trousers from the 1890′s)

Of styling and such:
These trousers can be dressed up or down, according to your preferences and personal style.
I quite like the time-tested classic cocktail ‘trousers/leather jacket/engineer boots‘, somewhat of a ‘Treasure of the Sierra Madre’ vibe… (The hat is a vintage Dobbs, available at your local flea market)

El Americano Mister Freedom 2013

Cristóbal Libertad de Los Angeles de la Sierra Madre, Junior.

To those considering such an outfit too ‘costumey’, I would mention that I have witnessed, on many occasions, that systematically selecting one’s wardrobe according to the current year can have brutal consequences.
Living in fear of a 1990’s selfie popping up on FaceBook can be stressful. You know, the one featuring a mind-boggling C.A. designed garment on a relative’s back?
Assuming you are sane, I believe you can pull almost anything as long as you are comfortable with it. If you have doubts, don’t expect them not to transpire.
Own it, or don’t do it.
As a general rule of thumb however, don’t let strangers tell you what to wear, that’s what house mirrors are for 😉

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by 1920’s-30’s gentlemen slacks.

FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930′s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear. Milled in Japan.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge and the original stiffness of linen. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled… Milled in Japan.
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed. Very deep dark indigo shade. Soft, cozy and warm. Milled and dyed in Japan.

DETAILS
* Straight leg, 20’s~30’s gent slacks type silhouette, higher rise, MF® revisited.
* Adjustable side straps with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* Clean side seam: Selvedge for duck and covert options, indigo popeline tape for corduroy.
* Double button waist closure (please note that the corduroy option has one single metal rivet button, due to bulkiness of fabric)
* Button fly. ‘Art Deco’ type corrozo buttons.
* Indigo covert fabric pocket bags and waistband lining.
* Trousers thin belt loops (not five pocket jeans like)
* Decorative arcuate stitch on pockets, an early European tailoring detail.
* ‘Smiley’ type rear welt pockets.
* Lap seam (aka caballo machine) seat and inseam construction
* Made in Japan

SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak/line dry cycle. Raw measurements might differ due to the way each fabric shrinks.
Hand washable with line dry or professional eco-friendly dry cleaning.

Length: Overall inseam is 34 inches with a 1½” inside fold.

For the Indigo corduroy “Trousers El Americano”, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments. Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.

I wear from waist 30 or 32 in mfsc pants and I opted for a 32 in these.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage and color loss.

El Americano Indigo Corduroy

Indigo Corduroy

El Americano Grey Stripe

Grey Covert

El Americano Brown Canvas

Brown Canvas

Available raw/unwashed
Waist sizes 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38

 

Retail:
a
) El Americano Trousers, Brown Duck $499.95
b)
 El Americano Trousers, Grey Covert Stripe $499.95
c)
 El American Trousers, Indigo Corduroy $549.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com and a few select fine retailers Worldwide.
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.

“Blouson El Americano” Indigo corduroy, Duck canvas & Stripe covert. MFSC Fall 2013

Blouson El Americano Mister Freedom 2013

 

El-Americano-Blouson-Corduroy

 

El-Americano-Blouson-Duck

 

El-Americano-Blouson-Covert

 

 

 

“Blouson El Americano”
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection

 

Let’s assume you have not yet forgotten our filibuster friend “El Americano“, introduced in the Fall 2013 chapter of mfsc “Viva la Revolución” collection…

Well, if he impressed many of his compañeros with his swag from the start, this had no little to do with that blusón he was wearing when he rode into Ensenada, one fine day of 1918. An elegant lone rider, clad in gringo attire and followed by nothing but a dust cloud… That day, El Americano was sporting a waist length soft leather jacket, button front and rounded collar, a casual yet stylish style not yet all the rage it was to become with American youth in the 1930’s.
Passing in front of a small store front just off La Calle Primera, he was hailed by François, a recently immigrated Frenchman, tailor by trade. François, you guessed it, was smoking outside his shop.
But of course. The rest is stuff of legends…
“Nice blouson Monsieur. I see you are quite the homme de goût … I just received some bolts of fabrics you might like to have zis coat made from?”

Blouson-Inspiration

Original ‘El Americano’ leather jacket circa 1918

FW13-swatches Mister Freedom

Original fabric swatches, courtesy of François ze tailor of Ensenada

After almost permanently silencing François because El Americano didn’t appreciate being diagnosed with gout by a stranger, the horseman agreed to dismount and enter the shop. He liked what he saw, rich but rugged fabrics, freshly imported from the Orient.
Few words were subsequently exchanged, as El Americano was a res non verba kinda fella, and the appeal of small talk eluded him.

Forty-eight hours later, a manila string wrapped a brown craft paper bundle. A calligraphed ‘Blouson, El Americano‘ red and white gum label was affixed to it. A few Pancho Villa pesos bills changed hands.
A set of waistcoats and trousers were also ordered the same week.
El Americano was now ‘dressed to kill’, for Land and Liberty…

Now you know this is a dated tale since there is no way in the world a Frenchman would do all that work in 48h. So, back to reality.

Our ‘Blouson’ is inspired by several short-type vintage jackets. 1920’s-30’s suede leather jackets, casual western coats, cotton work jackets…
The flared shape of the cuffs is inspired by a detail seen on a museum photo of a 1800’s chinaco (warriors, expert horsemen not belonging to the Mexican upper-class, War of Reform) suede ‘bolero’ jacket.

Chinaco-1800's

Original Chinaco outfit, 19th Century

Additionally the 1920’s-30’s period typical low chest pocket position (below rib cage) is so that you can  fill up both your shirt and jacket pockets without causing discomfort nor excessive bulging.

As always the ‘Blouson El Americano’ is not an exact replica of an existing jacket, rather a new garment that kinda looks old, a la MF®.
As a matter of personal preferences, we tend to not make our clothes look vintage by distressing them artificially with harsh chemicals/sanding treatments from industrial wash houses. We instead use old tricks and details to make our clothes look like they’ve been around for some time.
To some, these “Blouson El Americano” look like they are off a dusty bygone menswear store shelf… In days of disposable fashion, we don’t think that is a bad thing either.
We have developed 3 entirely different fabrics for this jacket, all milled/dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Indigo vat dyed Corduroy.
b) Brown Duck Canvas.
c) Grey Covert Stripe.

The ‘Blouson El Americano’ is fully lined with ‘Troy Blanket’ for the body, and cotton stripe ticking for the arms.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by 1920’s-30’s short-type vintage jackets.

FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930′s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear. Milled in Japan.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled… Milled in Japan.
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed. Milled and dyed in Japan.

DETAILS
* A-1 type collar pattern (Brown Duck version has a corduroy collar. Grey Covert has self fabric collar)
* Corozo wood buttons, aka ivory nut. Tonal color
* Adjustable side cinch straps
* Original flared wrist cuffs, ‘chinaco’ style.
* Low chest pockets, inverted box-pleats.
* Collar/cuff/pocket flap facing  lined with cotton indigo covert fabric.
* Fully lined: soft hand woven striped “Troy” blanked body lining (60% reused wool, 28% cotton, 12% Rayon) and stripe cotton ticking arms lining.
* Under arm gussets with venting eyelets.
* Made in Japan

SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that fresh-off-the-shelf look.

For the Indigo corduroy “Blouson El Americano”, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments. Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.

I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “Blouson El Americano”.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage and color loss.

El Americano Jackets SIZING

Available raw/unwashed

Sizes
36
 small
38 medium
40 large
42 Xlarge
44 XXlarge

Retail:
a) 
Indigo Corduroy $689.95
b) Brown Duck Canvas $669.95
c) 
 Grey Covert Stripe $669.95

Available soon from www.misterfreedom.com
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.

“El Americano” Waistcoat. Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection

El Americano Waistcoat Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

El Americano Waistcoat Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

 

“El Americano” Waistcoat
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection

 

We introduced the concept behind our “Viva la Revolución” mfsc Collection during Spring 2013.

For the first chapter of this on-going saga for Fall 2013, let’s welcome a new character, el Americano...
Aptly nicknamed due to his whereabouts North of the Rio Grande, not for his barista skills, our gringo fought alongside Mexican revolutionaries during the 1910-1920 Revolution.
More often for financial gratification than ideological convictions, foreign soldiers of fortune from around the World joined the ranks of the Maderistas, Villistas and other rebel armies. They earned nicknames as colorful as ‘Dynamite Slim’ or ‘El Diablo’, which allowed them to keep the greetings of an introduction brief…

El Americano was special. Unlike some of his compañeros of the ‘Gringo Rag-Tag Battalion‘, and although a feared fighter, he fancied being stylishly clad at all times. As others remarked on his unlikely field attire, he would retort: “Hombre, I always dress to kill.”
Someone sneered, once. Just once.
Such the poet was El Americano.

Anyways, back to the reality of 2013…
Our “El Americano” waistcoat was inspired by several vintage early 1900’s European fancy pieces. Its lapel style is often a trademark of early Old West portrait photography. The pattern is a combination of fancy tailoring tricks and details.
We have developed no less than 4 entirely different fabrics for this waistcoat, all milled and dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Brown Duck, golden brown cotton sateen back.
b) Grey Covert Stripe, black cotton sateen back.
c) Indigo dyed Corduroy, black cotton sateen back.

The last developed fabric is an indigo yarn covert twill that was originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s trousers from the 1890’s. The most unlikely sight, although I’ve seen quite my share of unusual textiles used as linings in early tailoring. I always love discovering ‘hidden treasures’ when opening up a vintage garment, such as a ‘crazy’ lining in a formal piece. They were often not a fashion statement, rather the need to use up fabric left over from a previous project, at times when discarding perfectly fine supplies was not a National sport.

Vintage inspiration Mister Freedom® ©2013 (19)

Vintage trousers lining

This 8.5 Oz. selvedge indigo fabric is the inner lining of “El Americano”, for its three options.
The outer back piece is a tightly woven 100% cotton sateen, matching the body.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by early European style tailored waistcoats typical of early Old West attire.

FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930’s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled…
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military. Yes, we look everywhere for inspiration. The only place off limit being what other contemporary brands do.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed.

DETAILS
* Slim silhouette, Old West waistcoat style. Angled front panels and curved back vented one-piece panel.
* Small round lapel
* Off-set shoulder construction
* High buttoned style (7 buttons).
* Three front pockets
* 100% cotton sateen tonal back panel.
* Underarm gusset.
* Engraved coconut wood buttons, aka ivory nut, aka corozo (and no, not chorizo as my spell check suggests.)
* Full adjustable cinch back with French vintage New Old Stock metal slide buckle.
* Unbleached cotton sail cloth pocket lining.
*100% cotton tonal stitching.

SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that desirable fresh-off-the-shelf look. As your waistcoat dries, fold and shape the collar to your liking, for a skinnier or fatter lapel (see the difference on the fit pix.)

For the Indigo Corduroy “El Americano” waistcoat, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments, or sleeping face down on a fancy white sofa fully clothed.
Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.

I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “El Americano” waistcoat.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage.

El Americano Waistcoat Mister Freedom®

Available raw/unwashed
Sizes
36
small
38 medium
40 large
42 Xlarge
44 XXlarge

Retail:
a)
Brown Duck $439.95
b)
Grey Covert Stripe $439.95
c)
Indigo Corduroy $459.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.