“Trousers El Americano”
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection
You are now familiar with “El Americano“, the friendly fella introduced in the Fall 2013 chapter of mfsc “Viva la Revolución” collection…
You had been warned that, following the three ‘El Americano’ waistcoats and blousons, the final custom order to François, ze recently immigrated tailor of La Calle Primera in Ensenada, included a set of trousers.
For those who have no idea what I am talking about, believing I should lay off the peyote at work, just you wait…
In the Fall of 1492, Cristóbal Libertad, the eldest son of an Andalucía born conquistadore whose horse had…
Por favor!!!!
Alright already… You deserve a break for the Holidays, so here is the short version, to everyone’s relief.
This is the ultimate chapter of our “Viva la Revolución” saga, spanning Spring and Fall 2013.
The style of these here trousers is inspired by 1920’s-30’s type gentlemen slacks, from the olden days when a man’s waist rose above hip bones and trousers were not yet used as tourniquet devices…
Wide waistband with skinny belt loops, pocket decorative arcuate stitch, adjustable side straps, ‘smiley’ back pockets are a few period elements we played with for the ‘El Americano Trousers’.
Three entirely different fabrics were developed for ‘El Americano Trousers’, all milled and dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Brown Duck (Medium-light weight, softer hand)
b) Grey Covert Stripe (medium weight, stiff)
c) Indigo vat dyed Corduroy (heavy weight, softer)
Although individual patterns were made for each fabric, and the cut remains the same, fabric thickness determines the drape of a garment. Heavier and stiffer fabrics having less drape (less flow) than lighter ones, the trousers in indigo corduroy will look/feel different from the brown duck version.
For pocket bags and waist lining, we are using our staple 8.5 Oz. indigo covert fabric previously introduced this season, an indigo dyed yarn covert twill, milled in Japan (originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s vintage trousers from the 1890′s)
Of styling and such:
These trousers can be dressed up or down, according to your preferences and personal style.
I quite like the time-tested classic cocktail ‘trousers/leather jacket/engineer boots‘, somewhat of a ‘Treasure of the Sierra Madre’ vibe… (The hat is a vintage Dobbs, available at your local flea market)
 Cristóbal Libertad de Los Angeles de la Sierra Madre, Junior. To those considering such an outfit too ‘costumey’, I would mention that I have witnessed, on many occasions, that systematically selecting one’s wardrobe according to the current year can have brutal consequences.
Living in fear of a 1990’s selfie popping up on FaceBook can be stressful. You know, the one featuring a mind-boggling C.A. designed garment on a relative’s back?
Assuming you are sane, I believe you can pull almost anything as long as you are comfortable with it. If you have doubts, don’t expect them not to transpire.
Own it, or don’t do it.
As a general rule of thumb however, don’t let strangers tell you what to wear, that’s what house mirrors are for 😉
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by 1920’s-30’s gentlemen slacks.
FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930′s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear. Milled in Japan.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge and the original stiffness of linen. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled… Milled in Japan.
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed. Very deep dark indigo shade. Soft, cozy and warm. Milled and dyed in Japan.
DETAILS
* Straight leg, 20’s~30’s gent slacks type silhouette, higher rise, MF® revisited.
* Adjustable side straps with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* Clean side seam: Selvedge for duck and covert options, indigo popeline tape for corduroy.
* Double button waist closure (please note that the corduroy option has one single metal rivet button, due to bulkiness of fabric)
* Button fly. ‘Art Deco’ type corrozo buttons.
* Indigo covert fabric pocket bags and waistband lining.
* Trousers thin belt loops (not five pocket jeans like)
* Decorative arcuate stitch on pockets, an early European tailoring detail.
* ‘Smiley’ type rear welt pockets.
* Lap seam (aka caballo machine) seat and inseam construction
* Made in Japan
SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak/line dry cycle. Raw measurements might differ due to the way each fabric shrinks.
Hand washable with line dry or professional eco-friendly dry cleaning.
Length: Overall inseam is 34 inches with a 1½” inside fold.
For the Indigo corduroy “Trousers El Americano”, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments. Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.
I wear from waist 30 or 32 in mfsc pants and I opted for a 32 in these.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage and color loss.
 Indigo Corduroy  Grey Covert  Brown Canvas Available raw/unwashed
Waist sizes 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Retail:
a) El Americano Trousers, Brown Duck $499.95
b) El Americano Trousers, Grey Covert Stripe $499.95
c) El American Trousers, Indigo Corduroy $549.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com and a few select fine retailers Worldwide.
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.
“RANCHERO Shirt” Mister Freedom® MFSC
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Fall 2013
You guessed it, our ‘Ranchero’ shirt is inspired by vintage shirting, classic movies, old photos, traditional silhouettes…
We mixed a bit of early work shirts, Indian ‘traditional’ tunics, Old West flavor, Old World shirting, some cilantro, stirred it all up, and dipped it in the MF® salsa.
BAM, we had a noïce shoït.
The ‘cut away’ one-piece collar pattern was inspired by several 1900’s French rural homemade shirts and early Mexican blouses. Nothing literal as always, just our interpretation and adaptation, as we, city dwellers, tend to spend more time in traffic than in fields swinging a scythe or a cavalry sword.
The ‘Ranchero’ shirt was introduced during Spring 2013, in both a white dobby stripe and indigo calico popeline.
This season, we added two new fancy fabrics, exclusively milled in Japan:
a) Plaid: a linen (60%) cotton (40%) woven indigo x mader red plaid, 6.2 Oz., selvedge, a mid-weight hand.
This fabric was originally developed based on a turn of the Century homespun cotton/linen work apron, scored from a French country side market.
b) Covert: An 100% cotton indigo yarn covert twill, 8.5 Oz., selvedge, a warm and quite heavy hand. In appearance somewhat similar to a ‘salt and pepper’ work fabric, with a quite thick feel.
We are using this covert as a ‘common thread’ for this Fall 2013 collection. It is featured in our ‘El Americano’ waistcoats and blousons.
This fabric was originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s trousers from the 1890’s. I have only seen this fabric once. Unusual then, it is not common either today.
With an all original MF® pattern and two fabric options, the ‘Ranchero’ is a pretty versatile shirt that can go dressy or casual, according to what you will match it with. It is a comfortable fit, due to cut and the expansion pleats of the shoulder yoke.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co under our MFSC collaboration. Limited Edition.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern inspired by vintage early shirting from the Americas and Europe.
FABRIC: Two options
a) “Indigo x red plaid”: woven checks, 60% Linen and 40% cotton, selvedge, 6.2 Oz.
b) “Indigo Covert”: 100% cotton indigo dyed ‘salt and pepper’ yarn twill. Selvedge, 8.5 Oz.
DETAILS:
* ‘Old West’ type silhouette.
* Full button front.
* Double button collar closure.
* Real horn buttons.
* Original MF® box pleat single chest pocket
* Single piece ‘cut away’ collar.
* Cotton indigo popeline button hole placket facing, white cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Rounded front tail and square back tail.
* High stitch count chain stitch flat felled seam construction.
* Selvedge side gusset.
* Sheared wrist cuffs.
* Double front and back shoulder yoke expansion pleats.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Made in Japan
SIZING/WASHING:
Both fabric options come raw/unwashed and will shrink to tagged size after an original cold soak and line dry.
Washable in cold water, gentle cycle. Line dry.
Please note that it is of the nature of linen garments to look wrinkled after laundry. Some like it that way, and some, in order to solve this First World problem, use an iron.
I wear a comfortable Medium in both options.
Please refer to chart for sample raw/rinsed measurements.
CHART (coming up)
Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large
Retail
a) Plaid $359.95
b) Covert $359.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com , from our Los Angeles brick & mortar and fine retailers worldwide.
Thank you for your support.
NOTE: The ‘Ranchero’ shirt and the ‘Americano’ waistcoat pictured come separately.
-
-
Raw Ranch Blouse Lot.64
-
-
Rinsed Ranch Blouse Lot.64
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
MF® Ranch Blouses ©2013
-
-
-
Holding the wall ©2010
-
-
-
“See, Tom, the problem is that you’re making us look bad”
-
-
“Well, first you need more hair”
-
-
“Then you work it like a pro”
-
-
“But that’s enough about me”
-
-
“Look, it’s easy”
The “RANCH BLOUSE” Lot.64 Sportsman Edition
MFSC FW 2013
We’ve had requests… but we made another denim jacket anyways.
Following our original ‘Ranch Blouse‘ made from some twenty-two different NOS selvedge denim types, here is the ‘Sportsman Edition’ of that fine jacket.
To make everyone’s life easier we have settled on ONE denim twill, the same we used for our Californian Lot.64 blue jeans, a sturdy 13.75 Oz. right hand twill selvedge denim, milled in Japan, known to some as the SC 1966.
When originally deciding to crowd the denim world with yet another jacket sometime in 2010, we combined vintage influences ranging from the three majors LLW to some more obscure now-defunct work wear off-brands. Again, no wheel got reinvented, we just added some MF® flava to a well established classic, tweaking things to our liking.
 Early 2010 Ranch Blouse prototype Our denim Sportsman ‘Ranch Blouse’ has a 1930’s ~ 1940’s flare with the traditional bell and whistle ie. the pleated front and the buckle back.
The denim ol’ timers will know but, for the new comers, the front pleats were originally not a fashion statement. In early types of work cotton twill jackets (canvas or denim), front expansion pleats meant more room to the wearer. The stitching was just there to keep the pleats in place, and removed or pulled if needed.
My own Ranch Blouse has seen the table of the sewing machine several times over the past two years, following the vicissitudes of its aging owner’s belly.
The 1920’s influenced round collar of our denim jacket was never a staple in ‘trucker’ type jackets to my knowledge, although I have since then seen several contemporary denim companies implementing that detail on their jackets. Some famous brand even used both round collar shape and our arrow head darts pleat stitching. As always, we’re flattered…
For this Sportsman Edition, we have added some concealed goodness in the form of NOS indigo ‘Wabash’ type fabric, for both the collar and pocket flap facing. Only you will know, but that’s the idea.
The 100% cotton stitching consists of a color combination of yellow and orange thread, in what appears to be a random manner but is actually a confusing and long list of instructions for the Los Angeles factory.
The two front pockets are lower than usual chest pockets, allowing the wearer to use both shirt and jacket pockets without creating too much bulk.
Branding comes in the form of a yellow “M” stitched on the front pockets, which is probably what McDonald’s would do if they made a denim jacket. May we never know.
Also, for ze Ladies, we made a few size 34 😉
As a patina example I have added my original 2011 Ranch Blouse in some photos. It still has plenty miles to go, as NO chemicals or nasty sanding was involved in the fading process.
For those on a mission to the ultimate fade, I believe it is less about the denim itself than what you do with it and the way it fits you. I have seen some great fades on contemporary non-selvedge jeans, made from non-premium denim and originally sold unwashed. Motion, not ocean.
Having awesome whiskers and tracks reaches obsession status sometimes, however, the process of wearing a well and ethically made garment that fits fine should be plenty satisfying, fade or no fade.
Designed and made in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, part of our “The Sportsman” catalog.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original mfsc pattern, influenced by early denim ‘trucker’ type jackets.
FABRIC: 13 3/4 Oz selvedge indigo denim. Right hand twill. White/pink selvedge ID. Milled on shuttle looms in Japan. Aka SC1966.
Under collar and under pocket flap lining: NOS 100% cotton indigo ‘wabash’ type twill.
DETAILS:
* Early round-type collar, A-1 style.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Original MF® chest pocketing with “M” stitching. There was just no room for the “F”.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* Wabash type twill lining for collar and pocket flap.
* Metal cast MF® branded buttons, ‘oxidized’.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer.
* Original mfsc printed cloth label. You’ll notice we don’t even have our full brand name on that label… Oops.
* Made in USA
SIZING/WASHING:
We recommend an original 30mn cold soak, spin dry and hang dry. You can briefly put the jacket on when damp, to give it (your) body, then hang to dry. Once fully dry the denim will be quite stiff from the starch, which is a good thing as this ‘sets’ some creases. You’re on your way to a pleasing patina after repeat wear.
The Sportsman “Ranch Blouse” comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” (aka shrink-to-fit) so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an original cold soak/line dry.
I wear a 38 in the Ranch Blouse, and it has the old school fit I like after the original cold soak.
Refer to chart for raw/rinsed measurements (please note that, although really not recommended, more shrinkage is to be expected if you ‘boil’ your jacket and machine dry it.)
Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail $369.95
Please email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered in the above ramblings. Available for purchase on www.misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support, always.
Indigo Melton “DROVER” Blouse
“Viva la Revolución” mfsc Fall 2013
Looks like some of our “Men of the Frontier” cowpokes-turned-filibusterers brought some of their gear along this season…
From the chilly Sierra Nevada trails to the banks of the Rio Grande, here come the Drover Blouse again… Some of you may be familiar with our original issue of this coat , made from recycled military blankets, natural color.
 Original Drover Blouse This time however, our wool coat took a little plunge (or 10 for that matter) in an indigo vat. Following a somewhat successful indigo dye test done some months ago on an off-white drover (only two dips), we decide to include an indigo option for our Fall 2013 line-up, after a tense and tumultuous board meeting that lasted an entire minute.
 Drover Indigo early Prototype The high grade Melton wool we used for this season Drover was milled and indigo dyed in Japan.
I was quite relieved when I realized that this project was not going to require my personal involvement with the dyeing process. Like they say, leave it to the pros.
Our Indigo Melton Drover is not garment dyed. Instead the natural wool was dyed first, then cut & sewn. This way, all the horsehide leather trims/lining keep their contrasting touch.
The body lining consist of a fabric we had milled in Japan, inspired by the unlikely indigo covert fabric liner of an 1890’s pair of trousers. This indigo covert is a recurring textile for our Fall 2013.
The arms lining are a cotton stripe ticking we have been using often for our mfsc products (same fabric originally used as watch pocket on our 7161 utility trousers, sometime in 2006.)
Over time and with normal wear, the Indigo Drover should get some interesting natural patina and I’ll be posting some evolution photos after winter. However, a wool jacket is not a pair of jeans, don’t try to speed up the natural aging process. Results in fading/patina will vary according to your activities.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan as a collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, introduced as the “Blouse Chaparral” for Spring 2012. Inspired by 1920′s~30′s sport type jackets and other vintage outdoor coats.
FABRIC:
100% Melton wool, soft hand, 31 Oz., selvedge.
Indigo vat dyed, about 10 dips, deep dark tone.
LINING:
Fully lined.
Body: 100% cotton indigo covert twill (aka salt & pepper), 8.5 Oz.
Arm: 100% cotton ticking (white w/ blue stripes).
DETAILS:
* 1920′s~30′s type silhouette, high waist.
* Original round collar.
* Back darting and expansion gusset, 1930′s style.
* Side waist adjustable straps.
* Horsehide leather side and cuff cinch straps (with vintage NOS French metal slide buckles)
* Cowhide leather pocket trimming.
* Arrow chest pocket.
* Horsehide leather detachable chin-strap.
* Wool selvedge on front panels button facing.
* Seven button front. Brown Corozo wood buttons (aka Ivory nut).
* Full lining, 100% cotton.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* No exposed seam, no overlock.
* Limited Edition.
SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
Please do not wash. DRY CLEAN only.
We recommend wearing the jacket as is, and taking it to a professional environmentally friendly dry cleaner when cleaning is needed.
NOTE: Due to the nature of indigo dye, crocking is expected and normal. Some color will rub for a period of time, on car seats, sofas etc…. Indigo is also sun sensitive and will change in color when exposed.
The Indigo Melton Drover is true to size. I usually wear a 38 in mfsc, and a 38 Drover fits me snug. You might want to size up if you are in between two sizes, especially if you will be wearing sweaters or layering this winter.
Please refer to chart below for measurements. Please consider the thickness of the fabric (wool + lining) when figuring out sizing.
Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes
36 (small)
38 (medium)
40 (large)
42 (xlarge)
44 (xxlarge)
Retail $879.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Please call 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for the support 😉
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
West Side Story. The End.
“El Americano” Waistcoat
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection
We introduced the concept behind our “Viva la Revolución” mfsc Collection during Spring 2013.
For the first chapter of this on-going saga for Fall 2013, let’s welcome a new character, el Americano...
Aptly nicknamed due to his whereabouts North of the Rio Grande, not for his barista skills, our gringo fought alongside Mexican revolutionaries during the 1910-1920 Revolution.
More often for financial gratification than ideological convictions, foreign soldiers of fortune from around the World joined the ranks of the Maderistas, Villistas and other rebel armies. They earned nicknames as colorful as ‘Dynamite Slim’ or ‘El Diablo’, which allowed them to keep the greetings of an introduction brief…
El Americano was special. Unlike some of his compañeros of the ‘Gringo Rag-Tag Battalion‘, and although a feared fighter, he fancied being stylishly clad at all times. As others remarked on his unlikely field attire, he would retort: “Hombre, I always dress to kill.”
Someone sneered, once. Just once.
Such the poet was El Americano.
Anyways, back to the reality of 2013…
Our “El Americano” waistcoat was inspired by several vintage early 1900’s European fancy pieces. Its lapel style is often a trademark of early Old West portrait photography. The pattern is a combination of fancy tailoring tricks and details.
We have developed no less than 4 entirely different fabrics for this waistcoat, all milled and dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Brown Duck, golden brown cotton sateen back.
b) Grey Covert Stripe, black cotton sateen back.
c) Indigo dyed Corduroy, black cotton sateen back.
The last developed fabric is an indigo yarn covert twill that was originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s trousers from the 1890’s. The most unlikely sight, although I’ve seen quite my share of unusual textiles used as linings in early tailoring. I always love discovering ‘hidden treasures’ when opening up a vintage garment, such as a ‘crazy’ lining in a formal piece. They were often not a fashion statement, rather the need to use up fabric left over from a previous project, at times when discarding perfectly fine supplies was not a National sport.
Vintage trousers lining This 8.5 Oz. selvedge indigo fabric is the inner lining of “El Americano”, for its three options.
The outer back piece is a tightly woven 100% cotton sateen, matching the body.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by early European style tailored waistcoats typical of early Old West attire.
FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930’s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled…
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military. Yes, we look everywhere for inspiration. The only place off limit being what other contemporary brands do.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed.
DETAILS
* Slim silhouette, Old West waistcoat style. Angled front panels and curved back vented one-piece panel.
* Small round lapel
* Off-set shoulder construction
* High buttoned style (7 buttons).
* Three front pockets
* 100% cotton sateen tonal back panel.
* Underarm gusset.
* Engraved coconut wood buttons, aka ivory nut, aka corozo (and no, not chorizo as my spell check suggests.)
* Full adjustable cinch back with French vintage New Old Stock metal slide buckle.
* Unbleached cotton sail cloth pocket lining.
*100% cotton tonal stitching.
SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that desirable fresh-off-the-shelf look. As your waistcoat dries, fold and shape the collar to your liking, for a skinnier or fatter lapel (see the difference on the fit pix.)
For the Indigo Corduroy “El Americano” waistcoat, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments, or sleeping face down on a fancy white sofa fully clothed.
Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.
I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “El Americano” waistcoat.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage.
Available raw/unwashed
Sizes
36 small
38 medium
40 large
42 Xlarge
44 XXlarge
Retail:
a) Brown Duck $439.95
b) Grey Covert Stripe $439.95
c) Indigo Corduroy $459.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.
|
