Mister Freedom® MFSC ‘DROVER Blouse’
‘Men of the Frontier’ Collection, Fall 2012
All hasn’t been quiet on this Western front lately. Let’s unleash another heavy hitter of our Mister Freedom x Sugar Cane collaboration, the 5th installment of Fall 2012 “Men of the Frontier”: The Drover Blouse.
We used the pattern of our popular “Chaparral Blouse” from Spring 2012. That was the easy part.
The challenge came from sourcing the fabrics. We had to dig deep to find enough undamaged raw yardage of NOS American made selvedge denim for the twill option. We managed, ‘cause we’re kinda stubborn.
For the other option, I wanted to use vintage wool blankets, ideally with woven stripes, and that’s when the trouble began. Old photographs and illustrations of fur traders, boat men and other mountain men show that wearing coats made out of blankets was quite common practice. Those coats were often very primitive in construction, a hooded T shaped capote or watchcoat that did the job to keep you warm during the harsh winter months. In remote trading posts, trappers would barter beaver pelts for manufactured goods such as wool blankets imported by the famous Hudson’s Bay Company.
With buffalos happily slaughtered to extinction by the White Man, a mere few hundred survivors by the 1850’s, wool blankets became a needed (and, as it turned out, cursed) commodity for the Plains Indians as well. Wool coats steadily replaced buffalo robes.
A fascinating brief history of the point blankets, a key element in the fur trade of the 18th Century, can be found here on the official site of the World oldest corporation. To clarify, we did NOT use any of the aforementioned rare and colorful vintage blankets to make our Blanket Drover Blouse. Those belong in museums, and we don’t have a bridge to sell you.
Read on.
Recommended reading:
* “Language of the Robe” by Robert W. Kapoun & Charles J. Lohrmann, 1992
* “Chasing Rainbows” by Barry Friedman, 2002
But, revenons à nos moutons. We didn’t have to canoe up the Yukon, fight bears and dodge arrows, but finding enough vintage matching blankets to justify production was no walk in the park either. We thought of giving up as prices were fluctuating, making this venture a financial risk. But after many efforts, we sourced out enough military dead-stock lots in a journey that took us from Nevada to Europe, with a few stops along the way… The 100% wool blankets we used for our Drover Blouse were originally manufactured for the Military, guaranteeing high grade and quality. They are of several 1960’s~70’s original military contracts, with slight variations in manufacturing specs.
They then took an ocean liner to Japan, where they were cut and sewn and turned into this puuurdy cool coat. In 40 years, when you pass it on to your grand children, you’ll have a story to go with it…
Did I also mention we were originally told that this jacket would be impossible to manufacture? Let’s say we made them an offer they couldn’t refuse, not involving a horse head, but a lot of perseverance.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and expertly manufactured in very limited quantities by Sugar Cane Co in Japan.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, introduced as the “Blouse Chaparral” in Spring 2012, and inspired by 1920′s~30′s sport type jackets, leather A-1 type coats, early Chimayo jackets… FABRIC:
Two entirely different options, NOS denim and NOS wool blanket. Option a) NOS Denim: Vintage dark indigo new old stock American milled denim, sanforized, white with black line selvedge ID, 3×1 twill, about 12 Oz. Option b) NOS Blanket: Heavy 100 % wool blankets, vintage military NOS, with blue woven stripes pattern. There are three main lots of blankets, each with a slightly different stripe pattern and color background. This is due to three different origins and specifics of the military manufacturers contracts. What you get is what we found. Each jacket will be slightly different, making it unique and collectible. LINING: Both options are fully lined. Option a) The NOS denim option body liner is made of striped “Troy Blanket” (60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Soft touch. Woven in Japan. Option b) The NOS Blanket option is lined with an original MFSC 100% cotton plaid, woven turquoise/white/red yarns, milled in Japan exclusively for MFSC.
Both options arm lining is of a vintage NOS 100% cotton stripe denim twill, from Mister Freedom® fabric stock.
DETAILS: * 1920′s~30′s type silhouette.
* Original A-1 type round collar.
* Back darting and expansion gusset, 1930′s style.
* Horsehide leather side and cuff cinch straps (with vintage NOS French metal slide buckles), leather pocket trimming and leather detachable chin-strap.
* Reddish/brown Corozo wood buttons.
* Full lining, wool blend “Troy Blanket” on option a) and cotton woven plaid on option b)
* No exposed seam, no overlock.
* Button facing with selvedge denim on option a) and bias tape edge on option b)
PACKAGING: For your future pro prop 37 grocery shopping experience we have packaged your Drover Blouse in an original MF® made raw selvedge denim draw string bag.
SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
Option a) The NOS denim is raw/unwashed. It is sanforized and should shrink from approx 0.5% to 3%. Some variation in shrinkage is expected and beyond our control, due to the nature of that particular NOS denim lot.
We recommend an original cold soak, no agitation, spin dry cycle and line dry. Further cleaning, if needed, should be handled by your professional environmentally friendly local dry-cleaner. Do NOT boil your Drover. I usually wear 38/medium in MFSC jackets but decided to go with a rinsed 36 for the denim issue Drover. I just won’t eat pasta anymore. Sizing chart below. Option b) Professional DRY CLEAN only, when cleaning needed. DO NOT RINSE/DRY. If this fabric option doesn’t fit you size wise, then it’s not meant to be. DO NOT attempt washing to make it shrink, as this will ruin the jacket.
Those fit SNUG. I wear a 38, with not much room for pasta either. Chart below.
Retail
Option a) NOS Denim $849.95
Option b) NOS Blanket $869.95
Call 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, friends.
Moving right along our journey West… Introducing the FARO WAISTCOAT, as the second installment of the “Men of the Frontier” MFSC Fall 2012 Collection, following its original Spring 2012 chapter. The first Fall 2012 installment was the Frontier Chinos.
This time we took our hombres away from the open range or work place, and into the dark oil lamp lit saloons of the early American Frontier. Gamblers’ halls and other fine whiskey pouring establishments were the main source of social entertainment for the hard living bunch at the edge of the Old World and the New.
In comes our Faro waistcoat… With its origin in 1700’s France, Faro became a popular single deck card game in the American West of the 1800’s. Until it was gradually supplanted by the game of Poker in the early 1910’s, Faro had been responsible for small fortunes lost and won, and a few gun fights.
Waistcoats were a permanent feature in old period photography, at times when looking your best in public involved tucking and buttoning up your shirt, along with wearing your britches in such a manner that only you knew the maker of your skivvies. A dress code seemed to often apply to most, whether coming off a horse, out of a mine, bank, jail… and no matter how wealthy or educated you were.
Lest I drift any further, let’s mention that the design of our Faro waistcoat is inspired by a late 1800’s vintage French silk velvet vest, high buttoned and narrow collar, that could have been sported by a card dealer, gambler or gunslinger in a lively 1905 saloon. We combined several elements of early vest patterns, outer and inner panels and piecing, and came up with this, if we may say so ourselves, elegant gentleman waistcoat.
As always, being an expert at losing your pay bucking the tiger or playing an extra on Deadwood is not required to wear our “Men of the Frontier” gear. Blending clothes tastefully is key to having your own non-contrived style, staying clear from the ‘costume’ look, although all that is of course very subjective.
If we don’t recommend pairing this Faro waistcoat with a track suit and Crocs, we leave it up to you to make it look good with denim jeans, cotton shirt, trousers from your existing wardrobe… The versatile collar can be folded for a deeper cut look. I often like wearing vests/jackets with only the top two buttons closed, a trick often seen in vintage photography, allowing easier reach to the trousers pockets.
Two fabric options are available (apples and oranges, impossible to compare.) Both textiles were woven in Japan, in limited batches, exclusively for MFSC®.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted as a one-time limited batch by Sugar Cane Co in Japan.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC®, inspired by late 1800’s gents’ waistcoats. High buttoned, small lapel, slim snug silhouette.
FABRIC:
FRONT PANEL: Two options
a) Deep rich navy blue color, 100% cotton corduroy, midwale (9 wale/inch), 11 Oz. Woven in Japan.
b) “Gun Powder” black (between field grey and dark laurel green), wide HBT (herringbone twill), selvedge, 20% Cotton/80% Linen blend, 15 Oz. Woven in Japan
BACK PANEL: Black all cotton sateen.
INNER LINNING: Combination all cotton HBT (ochre color) exclusively woven for MFSC®, and indigo blue cotton poplin.
DETAILS:
* Intricate early waistcoat panel construction. Tailor made style.
* Back cinch strap with French New Old Stock (NOS) metal slide buckle.
* Eight button front, brown corrozo.
* Two front welt pockets
* 100% cotton thread tonal stitching.
PACKAGING: Sturdy cardboard box with MF® original artwork. Please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING: Both fabric options come raw/unwashed.
After shrinkage, both fabrics will shrink to the same specs.
We recommend an initial cold rinse and line dry. The vests fit true to size. I am a 38 and wear a 38 in the Faro vest.
Just as you wouldn’t boil a fancy suit, please treat with care or take to your environmentally friendly dry cleaner for future cleaning.
Call 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, friends.
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Gunslinger Denim Jumper, Indigo twill & Desert twill
Here is our seventh and final installment of this season journey, the denim “GUNSLINGER JUMPER”.
Borrowing again from both the American West and the Old World, we have put together elements of work-wear jackets, early sack coats and forgotten silhouettes.
This design borrows from our MF® Bourgeron Biribi we have been making in-house in very limited runs, using 1920’s~30’s new-old-stock textiles. We haven’t specifically documented those, so there are no photos of all the rare fabrics we have used. But locals who visit the store might see some ‘specimens’ on our racks, before they get snagged by design teams for inspiration…
For the MFSC production of the Gunslinger Jumper, we had two different denim twill exclusively woven in Japan, both inspired by vintage swatches from our archives. One indigo denim with indigo back, and one white back unbleached natural denim. Both were milled in limited quantities. Those fabrics are the same we used this season for the Gunslinger Pantaloons.
They are also made in Sunny California, our beautiful State.
Hat courtesy of our friends Nico and Gregory at WESTBROOK MAKER , talented purveyors of head accoutrements and fine sombreros from Venice, California.
SPECS: PATTERN: An original MF® pattern, inspired by both the New and the Old World, mixing elements from European work wear and early American unlined cotton coats. Sack coat meets work coat. FABRIC: The Gunslinger Jumper comes in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches. a)MFSC Indigo denim twill: Dark Indigo warp x dark Indigo weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.4 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. A very rich dark indigo color, with purple hues, in and out. b)MFSC Desert denim twill: Natural warp x White weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.8 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. This is not your typical off white twill. This fabric has a lot of texture, character, ring and slub. DETAILS:
* Selvedged button placket facing, lower pocket hem and cuff facing.
* Round “A-1” type collar.
* Inner chest concealed pocket.
* Gun metal color donut button front.
* Cinch back strap. NOS metal sharp prong buckle (we have sadly run out of our stock of these, so this is one of the last time we use them for production)
* Flat felled seam construction with tonal 100% cotton thread.
* MFSC woven rayon labeling concealed inside left front patch pocket.
* Our trademark “Z stitch” sizing sail cloth patch. PACKAGING: For the USA, the Jumper comes in an old school cardboard box with original MF artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use. SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both denim options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles. The Jumper will shrink to the tagged size.
The Desert denim (natural) shrinks ‘faster’ than the Indigo denim. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
Do not just wash your indigo gunslinger jumper in hope of getting instant patina, wear it instead. DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the double indigo dyed yarn, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO denim twill, on BOTH sides of the fabric. You WILL get some color rubbing on other garments and body. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash, and overtime, your jumper will get an amazing patina inside AND out.
See sizing chart below for raw and rinsed measurements (garments were cold soaked for about 20mn, no agitation, spin cycle then line dried)
Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC).
Call the HQ at (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship almost everywhere internationally. Thank you mucho for your support 😉
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Gunslinger Denim Pantaloons, Indigo twill & Desert twill.
Here is our fourth installment of the “Men of the Frontier” journey, the denim “GUNSLINGER PANTALOONS”.
Borrowing from both the American West and the Old World, we have mixed European gentlemen’ trousers detailing with early workwear construction and fabrics.
The inspiration for those jeans came in part from this 1904 photo. This saloon scene showcases several interesting trousers styles worn by ranch hands at the turn of the Century. One of the cowboys (second from right) seems to be wearing denim, according to the cuffs showing the contrasting reverse of the fabric. A closer zoom reveals an obscure European trousers pattern, not a ‘classic’ five pocket type pants.
So we went with our own original trousers pattern, staying away from the more obvious Lee/Levi’s/Wrangler type work jeans back yoke piecing/pocketing. (As once mentioned in front of a Denim Industry audience, the genius iconic “501” must be the most actively milked cow in the jeans making racket… not a crowd pleasing statement.)
We had two different denim twill exclusively woven in Japan for this collection, both inspired by vintage swatches from our archives. One indigo denim with indigo back, and one white back unbleached natural denim. Both were milled in limited quantities, not the easiest nor cheapest stage of the making of those jeans.
Those jeans are also Made in Califonia, US of A 😉
SPECS: PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by both the New and the Old World. European type trousers tailoring mixed with work wear construction. FABRIC: The Gunslinger Pantaloons come in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches. a)MFSC Indigo denim twill: Dark Indigo warp x dark Indigo weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.4 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. A very rich dark indigo color, with purple hues, in and out. b)MFSC Desert denim twill: Natural warp x White weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.8 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. This is not your typical off white twill. This fabric has a lot of texture, character, ring and slub.
DETAILS:
* Higher type rise, early work pants type silhouette.
* Selvedge outer seam.
* 100% cotton natural color sail cloth pocket bags and seat lining.
* Gun metal color donut button fly. Double button waist band closure and inner waist tab.
* Cinch back strap and selvedge gusset. NOS metal sharp prong buckle (we have sadly run out of our stock of these, so this is one of the last time we use them for production)
* Five wide belt loops, unbalanced positioning.
* Original pattern single back pocket. The pocket ‘bell shape’ and specific selvedge construction allows storage for larger items.
* Flat felled inseam and seat construction.
* Copper riveted back pocket and back strap.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching. PACKAGING: For the USA, the GUNSLINGER’S come in an old school cardboard box with original MF artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use. SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both denim options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles.
The Desert denim (natural) shrinks ‘faster’ than the Indigo denim. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
Because of the back gusset, the waist can expand 1 ¾ inch when the back strap is not cinched, quite useful around Turkey Day. The measurements on the chart below are done with the gusset opened, with more shrinkage to come.
I am about a true 31 waist, and wear a waist 30 in those. I have only done an original cold soak/no agitation/line dry with both pair, so there is some more shrinkage to come. The indigo pair looks a bit wider than the natural pair, but I’ll wait until a wash is really needed.
Do not just wash your indigo gunslinger’s in hope of fading them faster, wear them instead.
Click on chart below for measurements of the INDIGO Gunslinger’s (the measurements are similar for the Desert version):
DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the double indigo dyed yarn, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO denim twill, on BOTH sides of the fabric. You WILL get some color rubbing on other garments and body, legs and Tony Montana type sofas alike. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash, and overtime, your gunslinger’s will get an amazing patina inside AND out.
Garment designed and manufactured in California, USA by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition
Available RAW/Unwashed Sizes:
Waist 28 x L36
Waist 30 x L36
Waist 32 x L36
Waist 34 x L36
Waist 36 x L36
Waist 38 x L36 Retail $379.95
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Canvas RANGE VEST
Moving right along with the “Men of the Frontier” Spring 2012 collection updates, here is our third installment, the canvas “RANGE VEST”.
I like vests. Whether part of a 3 piece suit or as a mismatch piece, you soon appreciate the extra pockets and extra layer. Vests are very practical additions to daily outfits.
Since I am not a big fan of hunting vest (they look too ‘hunting’ to me) I wanted a mix of outdoor ruggedness and Gentleman’s tailor-made garb; so no rear ‘game pocket’ here. By mixing outdoor and indoor, open range and saloon, combining canvas fabric/metal donut buttons hardware/wrap pockets with traditional satin belted back panel and a slender cut, we made a waistcoat that takes from both worlds.
Inspired by the pattern of a vintage 1930’s French outdoor vest found a while back, we made the Range Vest in the same fabric options than our Chaparral Blouse: Cotton-linen canvas in Brown and Indigo dyed.
By the way, the silly dude ranch fit pix (I’m wearing a size 38), as always, are not to be taken too seriously; they are just here for the kick. A DenimBro compañero has mentioned that we picked the wrong cactus (thanks Mr. Randal. No, not Josh, Mark) Of course, it is was no news to you that the Euphorbia Ammak in the photos background is of Western Saudi Arabia origin, nowhere close to the American Frontier 😉
But I’m rambling, here are the…
SPECS: PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by both the open range and early saloon imagery. Cowhand meets Faro dealer. FABRIC: The Range Vest comes in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches, both options are inspired by rare turn of the century French workwear textiles from our archives. a)MFSC Brown Canvas: A blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton selvedge canvas, 12.5 Oz., in a “cachou“/ brown Duck color. b)MFSC Indigo Canvas: A blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton selvedge canvas, 8 Oz., Indigo dyed.
DETAILS:
* Original multiple patch pocketing, six options to store your silver dollars.
* slender silhouette.
* 100% cotton sateen back panel with cinching belt (beige for the brown canvas and black for the Indigo canvas.)
* Gun metal color donut button front and pocket closures.
* Original rayon woven MFSC labeling on inside bottom of the button placket.
* No open seams or visible overlock.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching. PACKAGING: For the USA, the RANGE VEST comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use. SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both canvas options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles. The Indigo canvas shrinks ‘faster’ than the Duck canvas. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually. DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the indigo dye, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO canvas option Range Vest. You WILL get some color rubbing if you wear a light color shirt under it, or light color jacket over it. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash.
Sizing chart with raw and rinsed measurements coming soon.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Limited edition.
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.comto get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Much obliged for your support, Compañeros 😉
