FW2023 « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® “ARISTOCRAT” Shirt, NOS Stripe Albini Linen & NOS Kuroki Double Indigo Twill. Made in USA

Mister Freedom® “ARISTOCRAT” Shirt, NOS Stripe Albini Linen & NOS Kuroki Double Indigo Twill.
SS2023 & FW2024 mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

The Mister Freedom® ARISTOCRAT is our humble attempt at a straight-up menswear dress shirt, stylish yet unpretentious, classic yet original, with our commitment to continue producing it in USA. It has made recurring appearances in the MF® Sportsman catalog in a variety of internationally-sourced fancy fabrics.

Initially introduced in a Japan-milled selvedge Oxford cloth (Sportsman Fall 2020), it was followed by a EU NOS dobby stripe version (Sportsman Fall 2021), an Italian NOS Albini stripe linen edition (Sportsman SS2023), and now available in a Japanese NOS Kuroki double indigo twill (Sportsman Fall 2023.)

The original design of the ARISTOCRAT was inspired by several vintage American and European classic dress shirts and sportswear shirts from our archives.
Our intent was to merge traditional shirting details, revisit old patterns, and simply create an elegant, versatile garment, a modern classic with subtle vintage references.
The connoisseur will notice the nod to gents’ outfitters Turnbull & Asser – and other bespoke shirtmakers – in our choice of “Regent” spread collar shape — dig that subtle curve —although we opted for an unstructured collar construction (no fusing) for a more casual vibe.

We really wanted the single chest pocket design to be 100% MF®, and serve as outside branding, rather than an embroidered logo. Our R&D team got extra cups of brain juice to reinvent the wheel, one that would spin our own yarn, and got to work. Sketches were drawn, prototypes made from scratch, and a eureka moment came sometime in February 2020 when a re-imagined classic pocket finally surfaced from the drafting table: a simple diamond shape with an elegant curved fold and streamlined single-needle stitching.

The specific off-set shirt tail cut, front button placket construction, and double button rounded cuffs, were also thoroughly considered and tweaked until it all worked out for our aesthetics.
The shirred rear panel with its rounded piecing patch is a detail borrowed from early European shirting, and, along with the classic side gussets, add to the refined and subtle vintage appeal of the ARISTOCRAT.

For the silhouette, we opted for a trim fit, adjusting body pattern and side curves to convey broad shoulders and slim waist, balancing with a traditional shirt tail length.

Construction-wise, the US factory did a remarkable job with the stitch count, closely following tech pack for the magic high number, matched by a fine thread gauge. Because of obvious productivity issues, it is often a challenge to convince factory owners of committing to higher-count stitching settings. This can almost double production time (= double production cost), but the results are stunning and always make a garment stand-out next to a more hastily-constructed one. Anyone able to spot a cheap suit will notice the difference.
So, tip of the hat to the family-run local Los Angeles factory that keeps producing our ARISTOCRAT.

The ARISTOCRAT is complimented by genuine mother of pearl buttons, another reference to traditional European bespoke tailoring, while the chainstitch construction (using MF® signature green contrast stitching) brings it down a few notches with a workwear touch (bespoke shirts often feature French seams, not chainstitch.)
The discreet red bartack on the side gusset is a nod to the red stitched “H” of the iconic Hathaway brand, one of the last American shirtmaker to produce shirts in the USA, until they gave up on that endeavor around 2002…

Photos above are a visual round-up of our current ARISTOCRAT family, featuring the latest additions: New Old Stock Albini stripe linen edition (an Italian mill producing fine fabrics since 1876), and its Japan-milled Kuroki double indigo twill sibling. The latter is also photographed next to a “sunshine” prototype that has been sitting in the California sun for a few months as an experiment. The indigo twill fabric developed an amazing chemical-free patina.

All in all, our ARISTOCRAT is a reimagined vintage-style classic dress shirt, versatile, casual, easy go-to garment. Dress it up with a suit or down with a pair of blue jeans, wear it with a tie or open collar, tucked or untucked, all it asks is to not be left out in the closet!

The MF® ARISTOCRAT Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage American and European dress shirts and classic sportswear shirts.

FABRIC:
a) NOS Albini white & blue woven stripe, 100% linen, light weight, breezy, milled in Italy.
b) NOS Kuroki double indigo twill (indigo warp x indigo weft), 100% cotton, 7 oz., solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Classic, versatile, elegant yet casual shirt style.
* Slim and trim silhouette.
* Traditional spread collar with a British flair.
* Original chest pocket design, diamond shape with MF® signature curved fold and streamline pocket stop stitching.
* Rear panel shirring with rounded piecing patch.
* Side gussets.
* Off-set shirt tail lengths (slightly longer rear tail).
* Red bartacks accent on gusset.
* Genuine mother of pearl buttons.
* Double-button rounded cuffs.
* Elegant front button placket pattern.
* High-stitch count and fine thread gauge construction.
* Chainstitch construction with signature inside contrast green stitching.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Sportsman” rayon woven label.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The ARISTOCRAT Shirt comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this protocol:

Rinse in cold water, machine setting on delicate, full cycle.
Line dry, no heat dryer.

I opted for a Medium for a trim fit. I am 5’7 ~145 lbs. We recommend getting your usual size in MF® shirts, or size up for a more relaxed silhouette.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate soaked/rinsed measurements.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, Army Green cotton HBT shade AG-44, mfsc FW2023 “Survival School”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom “SNIPES” Shirt, cotton HBT, Army Green shade 44 (AG-44)
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School”
Made in Japan.

The pattern of the MF® SNIPES is inspired by the earliest model of US Gov-issued uniform shirt in a full button-front design, a departure from earlier 1/2 button-front pullover styles.

Identified as Specs “No. 8-26C Shirt, Flannel, Olive-Drab, Coat Style” by the Quartermaster Corps, it was introduced sometime in 1933 and issued to US Army and Air Corps personnel and FDR’s CCC enrollees alike. This new “Pattern 1933” uniform shirt was deemed “Coat Style”, marking a practical departure from its predecessor, the mustard color pullover wool shirt commonly associated with WW1 Doughboys. The overall design was borrowed from civilian workwear, back when utilitarian garment-making skills bordered on fancy tailoring prowess. This is definitely an intricate pattern by today’s workwear clothing standards, Dickies and the likes.

Besides the full six-button front placket improvement, the characteristics of the early 8-26C shirt included a one-piece unstructured collar (no collar band), a singular style of elbow reinforcement patch, and two large functional chest pockets, each with a pen slot.

The Mister Freedom® SNIPES retains all of that military design DNA, and we only decided to get creative with our choices of fabrics for each release.
This is our fourth iteration of the SNIPES, swapping the original US Army OD wool blend fabric with a Buzz Rickson’s Chambray in 2020, an OD cotton poplin in 2021 — a visual reference to classic US Navy N-3 type shirts —, and a light indigo HBT denim in 2023.

For mfsc FW2023 Survival School story, our SNIPES gets a new fancy skin, an all-cotton herringbone twill (HBT) in a classic US military color: Army Green shade 44 (AG-44) — think US Army Class A Green Service Uniform (1954-2015). This is an attractive textured and lightweight fabric, about 6 Oz., milled in Japan.

The term “snipes” refers to US Navy enlisted personnel working in the engine room, the “sailors that sail below”, also known as “Black Gang” for their grease-covered blues and dixie cup covers. See Machinist’s Mate Jake Holman’s dungarees for a Hollywood rendition.

The MF® SNIPES Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
100% cotton herringbone twill (HBT), classic Army Green shade 44 (AG-44) color, textured and lightweight (about 6 Oz.), milled in Japan.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by a rare vintage 1930’s US Army wool uniform classic shirt, revisited MF® style.
* Full 6 button front opening.
* Rounded tails.
* Brown corozo wood “cat-eye” buttons.
* Two large utilitarian chest pockets with flaps, each with a pen slot.
* Unstructured one-piece collar (no collar band.)
* Elbow reinforcement patches.
* White poplin button placket facing.
* Chainstitch construction with narrow folder.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Red bartack side seams in lieu of side gussets.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Survival School” double neck labeling: woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” topped with printed “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” labels.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The SNIPES HBT AG-44 shirt comes RAW/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

* Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.

* Machine spin dry cycle, then line dry.

At 5.7’ ~145 lbs, I opted for a SMALL for a trim uniform-like fit.
We recommend sticking to your usual mfsc shirt size, understanding that what will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your shirts to fit.
Please refer to our sizing chart reflecting soaked measurements (= 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Heat dryer may result in excessive/irreversible shrinkage.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt, cotton sateen edition, FW2022 mfsc HOOPER collection. Made in Japan.

Introducing three smashing Mister Freedom® Dude Rancher family members in finer-than-frog-hair cotton sateen for FW2023!

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt, cotton sateen edition.
FW2023 mfsc Survival School x Sportsman collection.
Made in Japan.

This is not exactly our first rodeo when it comes to “cowboy shirts.” The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA, introduced during Fall 2013, was our first traditional “western snap” shirt and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics. We discontinued that pattern.

Its much fancier successor, the all-original MF® “DUDE RANCHER”, is our second spin on the style. The pattern is inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts from our archives, each with specific variations of a style pioneered by Rockmount Ranch Wear legendary CEO Jack Weil starting circa 1946. “Papa Jack”, as he was called, is credited as the father of the modern Western shirt, and the first “designer” to opt for snap button closure, vs. the earlier 1930s shank button styles.

Our DUDE RANCHER pattern was of course twisted MF® style, and has become a Mister Freedom® staple since its 2019 poplin debut in our catalog. It is today available in a wide range of old school fabrics.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back curved shoulder yokes, but we decided on arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt not too “Roy Rogers”, no offense to the Singing Cowboy belting it out on his steed Trigger.
Our playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
Another distinctive design choice are the painted metal snaps, reminiscent of sought-after vintage 1950s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell western shirts, as previously featured on the MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

Our fabric choice for this season is a nod to classic Lee® Westerner™ shirts, popular in the late 1950s/60s with dude ranch vacationers in search of a whiff of a romantic rugged Old West, and “Urban Cowboys” set to deck themselves out in western fashion alike. In pop music culture, “Cosmic Country” in the 1960s, and a revival in “Country & Western” in the 197os also brought some exposure to the style. I’ve always loved old sateen Westerners, and scoring one was always thrilling during my rag-picking days.

Vintage 1960s Lee® Westerner™ shirt label.

Our choice of black rayon fabric as the collar band facing/shoulder yoke lining is a reference to fancy specimen by the now-defunct classic “Tem-Tex” label and their elaborate Texas-made cowboy shirts. Our recent “Hooper” edition Dude Ranchers — available in four finer-than-frog-hair 1950s style cotton corduroys — are riding on that fancy trail.

Our original cotton sateen DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt will pair well with any classic wardrobe, and look sharp with traditional denim blue jeans or dressier slacks.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER Western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Fancy 100% cotton sateen, 7 Oz., milled in Japan.
Three classic color options:
a) Ivory
b) Black
c) Sandstone (khaki)

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s western-style shirts.
* Original western-wear arcuate front and back yokes combo.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (paint will chip with age.)
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Intricate diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton high-count tonal stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The cotton sateen MF® DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.

Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.

I opted for a MEDIUM on this DUDE RANCHER sateen edition, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit. (I’m 5.7’’ approx. 145 Lbs.)
Please note that I tended to size down on earlier versions, so do refer to our sizing chart for approximate soaked measurements to properly dial in your size.
This is how we measure. Please use those guidelines to compare measurements of a garment of a similar style you own (i.e. a shirt), and that fits according to your liking.
When in doubt, reach out to the MF® Team sales@misterfreedom.com with your body measurements and fit expectations to get educated sizing recommendations.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® UTILITY Jacket, OG-107 cotton sateen, FW2023 msfc “Survival School”, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co UTILITY Jacket OG-107 sateen.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School”
Made in Japan.

Full credits to the folks at the “Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot” for coming up with this garment pattern circa 1941!
The design was adapted from civilian denim workwear styles popular at the time, and would briefly become the new US Army work/field jacket during the early years of WW2. The M-1941 jacket was issued in olive green HBT, under the moniker “Jacket, Herringbone Twill, Specification No. PQD 45.”
Incorporating commercial fashion designs in US military uniforms had become a thing in the late 1930s, as it was thought a “new look” would help boost morale for the troops, and instill “pride in uniform.”
The resulting modernized design of the M-1941 Utility Jacket proved fancier-than-needed in the field, not fully-practical in the front lines, and costly to manufacture. Additionally, intricate patterns and overly complicated tech-packs limited the amount of contractors able to deliver regulation uniforms on time, not an ideal situation during wartime production.
Read here for interesting specifics on WW2 military field uniforms.

: Eclectic US Army field jacket line-up (1943) (M1941 on right)

: GI Mule Skinners (1944) Courtesy Sam Cox

For us, that pattern was a perfect candidate to play with for one of our “might have been” MF® garments.
After updating the fit and tweaking a few things, we released a 2×1 denim version in 2015 (blog post), followed by a Melton wool/indigo twill CDO model.
For our Survival School venture, we thought of a matching top to the Mechanic Trousers, and the UTILITY Jacket pattern was selected as the companion of choice for a smashing OG-107 tuxedo! Right on time for the Holidays.
The fabric is a 9 Oz. vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, in that classic military shade of Olive Green we all love. Milled in 2024 as close as it gets to its 1952 GI ancestor (and I don’t mean the contemporary overly-slubby commercial renditions), our OG-107 cotton sateen is bound to age as gracefully as that of vintage fatigues.

The MF® UTILITY Jacket, OG-107 cotton sateen 2023 edition, is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Revisited pattern of the US Army Spec No. PQD 45 M-1941 UTILITY Jacket.

FABRIC:
100% cotton, vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, OG-107 color, 9 Oz., milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Revisited pattern of the classic US Army Spec No. PQD 45 M-1941 UTILITY jacket.
* Unlined, all clean seams.
* Elegant curved notch lapel.
* Waist length, complimenting one’s natural waist.
* Side cinch straps, mil-specs metal sliders.
* ‘Bat sleeve’ pattern with gusset for arm hole comfort.
* Double chest pockets, expanding box pleats.
* Back panel expansion pleats.
* Large inner chest pocket, locked in panel construction.
* ‘Burst of Glory’ type metal tack buttons, black. Color will chip with wear.
* Adjustable cuffs, fancy shirt-sleeve style.
* Chainstitch construction, 100% cotton thread, tonal.
* Woven rayon label “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” on the inside waistband, stamped sizing on neck.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:

The Mister Freedom® UTILITY Jacket OG-107 comes UN-WASHED, cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after the initial cold soak/line dry shrinking process. Recommended protocol:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.

Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.

This jacket is considered true-to-size.
At 5’7 ~145 lbs., I opted for a SMALL, my usual current size in mfsc jackets, with enough room for a Medalist sweatshirt.
The size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your clothes to fit. Measure a jacket of a similar style you own and compare to our size chart, reflecting rinsed measurements.
This is how we measure.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
Turn garment inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Excessive and irreversible shrinkage may result from using hot water and heat dryer.

Thank you for your support, and Happy Holidays!

Mister Freedom® MECHANIC Utility Trousers, OG-107 cotton sateen, FW2023 msfc “Survival School”, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co MECHANIC Utility Trousers, OG-107 cotton sateen.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School”
Made in Japan.

We are freely borrowing again from a vintage pair of 1957 New Old Stock “TROUSERS, UTILITY, COTTON, SAGE GREEN, CLASS 2, HEMMED BOTTOMS, SHADE 509” (MIL-T-4335A) from our archives.

Issued to US Air Force Aircraft Mechanics in the mid 1950’s, these cotton sateen “grease monkey” pants are immediately distinguishable by their USAF sage green fabric, pleated front, double thigh tool pockets, and long waist-adjusting cinch tabs. They somewhat have the ‘look’ of the lower half of a pilot flight suit.

Compared to the ubiquitous 1950s-60s OG-107 cotton sateen Utility Trousers (MIL-T-838) — their military fatigue brother-in-arms, sometimes referred to as “Baker” pants —, vintage specimen of USAF MIL-T-4335A are rare birds.

: Original MIL-T-4335A 1957 USAF Mechanic Utility Trousers, MF® Vintage Archives

: VNAF pilots and USAF instructor (1960s)

We initially modified the pattern/fit/features/fabric of the USAF originals back in 2014, and released the MF® Mechanic Utility Trousers in an indigo Cavalry twill.
We had kept the functional side cinch tabs — allowing for a quick 2-inch waist adjustment —, but removed the front pleats and thigh tool pockets. Instead, a single utility pocket was relocated along the inseam of the left leg, ‘sandwiched’ in the flat-felled seam, mid-calf, convenient for storing map/gloves/tools/phone/etc.

The main update for this FW2023 edition of the MF® MECHANIC Trousers is the fabric, pretty much going back full circle to the original 1950s version, fabric wise. We opted for a 9 Oz. vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, OG-107 color — that classic shade of Olive Green we all love. Milled in 2024 as close as it gets to its 1952 US military cotton-back sateen ancestor, our MECHANIC fabric is bound to age as gracefully as vintage specimen did. For that worn-in look, you will have to do the wearing, as we are still not caving-in to factory-distressed garments.
The OG-107 color base fabric is complimented by subtle “Indian” orange contrast accents, visually matching our “Survival School” concept. The blazing orange snap caps and concealed orange ripstop fabric facing are nods to vintage US Military survival/signal gear.

The MF® MECHANIC Trousers, OG-107 cotton sateen 2023 edition, are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Freely-inspired by 1950s USAF Mechanic Utility Trousers (MIL-T-4335A) and mfsc 2014 Mechanic Utility Trousers.

FABRIC:
100% cotton, vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, OG-107 color, 9 Oz., milled in Japan.
Concealed facing: Indian orange all-cotton ripstop.

DETAILS:
* Original msfc pattern, freely inspired by 1950s USAF Mechanic Utility Trousers style.
* Mid-high rise period cut.
* Two front slash patch pockets.
* “Utility/map” pocket, left leg inseam, mid-calf.
* Button fly, brown corrozo wood buttons.
* Quick release side cinch tabs, 2-inch waist adjustment.
* Contrast “Indian” orange snap caps on tabs + cotton ripstop facing.
* Two rear patch pockets, single flap.
* Flat-felled seam sturdy construction.
* 100% cotton thread stitching, tonal.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Survival School” double labeling: woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” topped with printed “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” labels.
* Made in JAPAN.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® MECHANIC Utility Trousers OG-107 come UN-WASHED, cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after the initial cold soak/line dry shrinking process. Recommended protocol:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.

Machine spin dry cycle and line dry.

These are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured natural waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions.
I opted for a W30 in the MECHANIC Trousers — my usual current size in mfsc jeans/trousers at 5’7 ~145 lbs — for a fit top block (both tabs cinched) and comfortable straight leg silhouette.

Note that the side tabs allow for a 2-inch waist adjustment when fully-cinched (second snap.)

We recommend hemming the pants to your desired length after the shrinking process. The simple 1 ¾ inch folded hem only requires single-needle machine work, and traditional hemming will look sharper than rolled cuffs.
The waist size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your pants to fit.
Please refer to size chart, reflecting rinsed measurements.

Thank you for your support, and Happy Holidays!