Mister Freedom® mfsc “GYPSY BLUES” Fall 2017 recap.
Made in Japan.
Full collection (SS2017 & FW2017) available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017
Gilet Gadjo, sienna brown 8.5 Oz. cotton moleskin.
“Gyspy Blues” mfsc collection Fall 2017
Made in Japan.
Our elegant-yet-rugged Gilet Gadjo, previously released in indigo cotton-linen HBT and stripe covert cloth, makes a come back this Fall!
The pattern of our classic vest is inspired by 1910’s-1930’s French Gentlemen’ waistcoats. The shawl lapel, fine sateen back, cinch back strap and fancy lining make for a choice addition to the discerning gadjo‘s closet. We took the dandy vibe a notch down by donning our gilet a set of donut-shape metal buttons as front closure, hardware parts usually reserved for vintage utility garments.
For this Fall edition, we opted for cotton moleskin, a staple of vintage French workwear fabrics. A small batch was milled in Japan from an antique textile swatch. We chose a rich sienna brown color, with low colorfast properties. Some of the photos feature a once-cold-soaked specimen, next to a fully washed and worn sample, for an idea of fabric evolution.
If black and navy blue are typical colors of old-school French workwear, brown and cream moleskin garments were quite popular with the Gardians of Camargue, the gritty Provençal cowboys dreamed-up by the legendary Old-West-obsessed Folco de Baroncelli in the early 1900’s. In the old days, these famed horsemen of the delta of the Rhone, Southern France, typically wore moleskine boot-cut riding pants, with the characteristic contrast piping running down the leg seam. A matching moleskin vest, flamboyant plaid or printed cotton shirt, low-crown western-style hat, and a pair of Camarguaises (local traditional rough-out leather boots) often completed these work outfits.
(For the commun thread between Gardians and our Gypsy Blues story, Camargue’s most iconic commune is Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, a notorious annual pilgrimage destination for Gypsies coming from the four corners of Europe.)
Familiar to the European vintage clothing aficionado, French waistcoats from the 1920’s-30’s typically feature a stern shell (often black wool serge) and an unusual inner lining (fancy printed fabric probably left-over from a custom shirting project). It is not uncommon to come across such tailor-made vintage specimen with a formal appearance and an unusual inner lining.
Digging through the archives, we found limited NOS yardages of forgotten textile goodness from past mfsc collections, and have used then as linings on all iterations of the Gilet Gadjo. The fancy off-white calico-print cotton sateen twill featured on the moleskin version was originally milled for our 2011 Les Apaches collection, but was never used. Indigo-dyed cotton poplin inner panels complete the lining. A classic amber brown cotton sateen back adds to the elegant vintage vibe.
The Gilet Gadjo is designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE Co.
SPECS:
FABRICS:
* Front panels: 100% cotton moleskin, 8.5 Oz., sienna brown color with low colorfast properties. Milled in Japan.
* Back panel: 100% cotton sateen back, amber brown color.
* Inside lining: Fancy 100% cotton off-white sateen twill with vintage-style calico-print, accented with contrast indigo-dyed poplin panels.
DETAILS:
* Original mfsc pattern inspired by fancy 1910’s-30’s European tailor-made Gentlemen’ waistcoats.
* Elegant and traditional silhouette, to compliment higher-waisted trousers or blue jeans.
* Shawl lapel.
* Chest darts and early waistcoat gussets and paneling.
* Fancy calico-print off-white cotton sateen inner lining.
* Sateen back, amber brown color.
* Cinch back strap, with vintage-style metal prong buckle, removable for washing.
* Three welt pockets.
* Utilitarian unmarked ‘donut’ metal brass buttons.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The Gilet Gadjo moleskin comes raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual method, initial cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
If the general consensus was to size down on the Spring 2017 run of this pattern, both covert and HBT cotton/linen editions, this moleskin version is rather true to size. I wear a fitted 36 in covert and HBT, and a fitted 38 in moleskin (rinsed/line dry).
Please refer to chart to figure which size works for you. Take your favorite waistcoat, measure it laying flat (as the chart’s b/w photo suggests), and see which size/measurements combo most-closely matches.
If confused, email sales@misterfreedom.com.
CARE:
We recommend hand washing or machine wash on gentle/delicate cycle. Cold water, eco-friendly detergent, spin dry and line dry. DO NOT launder on “Heavy Wash” setting, as the metal buttons might get snagged and damage the garment.
REMOVE metal prong buckle from the back strap before laundering, it is fastened by a button.
The sienna brown moleskin fabric intentionally boasts low colorfast properties, and will lose its original sheen after a few wash/wear cycles. It will fade quite rapidly, according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Retail: $379.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017
Young Gypsy (photo Lucien Clergue, 1959), courtesy Atelier Lucien Clergue ©1959
Cristóbal De La Marina Del Rey, with duende ©1966
Caravans (Vincent Van Gogh, 1888)
Gilet Gadjo, indigo cotton/linen HBT & cotton covert stripe.
“Gypsy Blues” mfsc collection Spring 2017
Made in Japan
The Romani term “gadjo” refers to folks of non-Romani origin. It is today quite a common colloquialism in Southern France, and is used to designate a male individual (as in ‘guy’ or ‘dude’).
“Vise-moi un peu le gadjo!” (Check out that dude!).
Chances are you could hear that one a few times, should you find yourself around the Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer on May 24th, walking around town sporting Mister Freedom®’s latest.
The pattern of the MF® GYPSY BLUES Gilet Gadjo is inspired by 1910’s-1930’s French Gentlemen’ waistcoats. The shawl lapel, fine sateen back, cinch back strap and fancy lining make for an elegant addition to the discerning gadjo‘s closet. We took the dandy vibe a notch down by donning our gilet a set of donut-shape metal buttons as front closure, hardware parts usually reserved for vintage workwear-type garments.
The two fabric options were introduced with the release of our Veste Belleville. An indigo-dyed cotton/linen HBT (the same sturdy fabric of our Waterfront Coat, indigo-dyed to a dark and rich hue), a textile inspired by early French firemen uniform of the 1900’s, and a 100% cotton stripe covert fabric, a sort of heather charcoal grey salt & pepper with a subtle woven stripe pattern, developed from a vintage swatch of 1930’s French workwear NOS textile. Both fabrics were milled in Japan.
Familiar to the EU vintage clothing aficionado, French waistcoats from the 1920’s-30’s typically feature a stern shell (often black wool serge) and an unusual inner lining (fancy printed fabric probably left-over from a custom shirting project). It is not uncommon to come across such tailor-made vintage specimen with a formal appearance and a flamboyant inner lining.
Digging through the archives, we found limited NOS yardages of forgotten textile goodness from past mfsc collections, and decided to use that as linings on this project. Both indigo discharge calicoes are from our MEN of THE FRONTIER days, namely the Apache and Pueblo Trade Shirt.
But, for heaven’ snakes, what do American cowboys have to do with French gypsies you axe me?..
The relevance would be Old-West-obsessed Folco de Baroncelli and the Gardians of Camargue, aka ze French cowboyz. The famed horsemen of the delta of the Rhone, Southern France, typically wear shirts with traditional calico-type motifs from Provence. Camargue’s most iconic commune is Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, pilgrimage destination for Gypsies from the four corners of Europe.
Voila the common thread.
The Gilet Gadjo is designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE Co.
Credits: Lucien Clergue‘s 1959 photograph courtesy of Lucien Clergue Atelier.
SPECS:
FABRICS:
Option A
* Front panels: A sturdy 15 Oz. blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton indigo-dyed HBT textile, selvedge, milled in Japan.
Please note that some light streaking can be observed on some garment panels at times. This is due to the nature of indigo-dyeing this specific heavy textured fabric. This is not considered as a defect, and will subside with wear. This indigo-dyed fabric is very light sensitive and its hue will evolve rapidly.
* Back panel: 100% cotton sateen back, lined with indigo discharge print poplin, mfsc “Pueblo” calico. Solid indigo-dyed fine cotton poplin front panel lining.
Option B
* Front panels: A lighter 9 Oz. covert woven stripe 100% cotton fabric, milled in Japan.
* Back panel: 100% cotton sateen back, lined with indigo discharge print poplin, mfsc “Apache” calico. Solid indigo-dyed fine cotton poplin front panel lining.
DETAILS:
* Original mfsc pattern inspired by 1910’s-30’s European tailor-made fancy waistcoats.
* Elegant and traditional silhouette, to match higher-waisted trousers or blue jeans.
* Shawl lapel.
* Chest darts and early waistcoat gussets and paneling.
* Fancy indigo discharge-print calico poplin lining.
* Sateen back, oxidized black color.
* Cinch back strap, with vintage-style metal prong buckle.
* Three welt pockets.
* Utilitarian unmarked ‘donut’ metal buttons (copper for the indigo, brass for the covert)
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
Both fabric options come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual method, initial cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
I opted to size down on both the indigo HBT and the grey covert. I usually wear 38 (Medium) in mfsc jackets, but went with a 36 (small) with the Gilet Gadjo, for an old school fit and high-waisted silhouette. The fit photos shows both sizes/fits, 36 and 38.
Please refer to chart to figure which size works for you. If still confused, email sales@misterfreedom.com
CARE:
Indigo HBT: When needed, hand wash or machine wash on delicate, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Turn inside-out to avoid marbling of the fabric. Line dry ONLY.
DO NOT use heat dryer as this will leave marbling lines and set un-natural creases to the indigo HBT linen fabric.
Covert stripe: Machine wash on delicate, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
DISCLAIMER: Use caution when laundering, as the metal buckle of the cinch strap has sharp prongs that could get snagged and damage this (or other) garment(s).
Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Retail:
Indigo HBT: $399.95
Covert Stripe: $379.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017
He’s a natural
Notice the special gas cap model, designed by MI6 Quartermaster “Q”
The “Continental Vest”
NOS Cotton-Linen twills, Charcoal, Slate Grey & Indigo Moss Blue.
Sportsman Collection Spring 2016
Moving right along in our Continental trilogy, the latest grouping added to the Made in USA Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog for Spring 2016, here is the Continental Vest. The third original pattern of our recently-released suiting effort complements the Continental Trousers and Continental Sportcoat.
Our Continental Vest design is inspired by several vintage waist coats, and more specifically by an original 1950’s-60’s British-made specimen. Unlike previously-released Mister Freedom® waistcoats mostly taking from turn-of-the-Century to 1930’s models and featuring contrasting cotton sateen backs, the Continental Vest carries an early sixties tailor-made vibe with its matching fabric back design.
This elegant six-button front garment features two slanted box-pleat patch pockets with flaps, and a full cinch back belt. In addition to the charcoal and slate grey cotton-linen twill fabric options offered with the Continental Sportcoat, we are also releasing the Continental Vest in Indigo Moss Blue. It is the same attractive denim-like fabric originally introduced with the Continental Trousers, a New Old Stock slubby 11 Oz. crosshatch twill, 70% cotton – 30% linen blend that got black ops spooks red with envy. The Fashion industry, on the other hand, does envy our “Indigo Moss Blue” terminology, which is indeed one of our proudest semantic achievement to date.
Please note that said-Indigo Moss Blue option features the 1rst type Continental lining, an ivory white 100% cotton plain weave with a woven blue stripe. A slightly different NOS woven stripe fabric was used for both the charcoal and slate grey vests. To accommodate mixing and matching within the Continental family, this handsome new lining fabric is very similar in appearance to its original companion. The subtle variation typifies the perks associated with opting for limited New Old Stock fabric on full-fledged garment manufacturing projects.
Using vintage NOS fabrics not only satisfies our known appetite for limited edition runs, but also matches a desire to limit the carbon footprint of Mister Freedom® seasonal offerings, however insignificant of a gesture it might seem.
Speaking of H2O, our vest is washable. But be aware that the cotton-linen fabric will torque and shrink, and the stitching will pucker to a roping effect. This ‘wrinkled’ look is an acquired taste, and some might prefer a freshly pressed ‘clean’ look instead easily obtained with professional dry-cleaning.
The Continental Vest is quite versatile and will adapt to the wearer’s own personal style, according to what it will be paired with. It can be dressed-up with Continental Trousers and vest, dressed-down with blue jeans or chinos, buttoned-up (don’t forget to leave the bottom button unbuttoned) or worn open, etc…
Ultimately, and with such wardrobe must-haves as the Continental Trousers, Sportcoat and Vest, there will be no rest for the delusional on-the-go Int’l Man of Action, heading out on an impossible mission to get groceries.
Oh, and don’t forget your Space Pen. One never knows.
The Continental Sportcoat is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERNS:
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage European waistcoats, notably an original 1950’s-60’s tailor-made British specimen.
FABRICS:
A) Charcoal Grey twill: New Old Stock, 60% cotton – 40% linen, 8 Oz. denim twill with a probable Italian origin.
B) Slate Grey twill: New Old Stock, 60% cotton – 40% linen, 8 Oz. denim twill, also with a probable Italian origin.
C) Indigo Moss Blue denim twill: New Old Stock, 70% cotton – 30% linen, 11 Oz. denim twill, also with a probable Italian origin.
Lining: Two similar types of fancy New Old Stock 100% cotton fabrics, natural white with woven blue stripe.
DETAILS:
* Six-button front.
* Two slanted box-pleat patch pockets with buttoned flaps.
* Full matching back with cinch strap, European-style metal buckle.
* Fancy corozo wood buttons.
* Full lining, woven stripe suit-lining fabric, no open seams.
* Made in USA, baby.
SIZING/FIT:
This explains how we size our garments.
The Continental Vest comes raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. For the three fabric options, the tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. All fabric options will shrink to roughly the same measurements.
Please note that it is the nature of cotton-linen blend textiles to wrinkle and slightly stretch back and forth with each laundry/wear cycle. For example, freshly laundered linen garments fit tighter in the morning than at the end of the day. If you prefer a clean, pressed look following the initial soaking process, the Continental Vest can be steamed or professionally pressed.
I opted for a Size 38 in all options of the Continental Vest. This is my usual size in mfsc top garments. However, I have done a full rinse cycle with the Vests, and used a heat dryer for about five minutes to get the shrinkage that fitted my tastes.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry. Further shrinkage and creasing will be achieved with full wash cycle (on delicate) and a heat dryer cycle.
-
-
Charcoal Grey
-
-
Slate Grey
-
-
Indigo Moss Blue
CARE:
Hand wash or machine wash unbuttoned on delicate, cold water with minimal environmentally friendly detergent. Line dry.
NOTE: Full washing cycle and machine dry will result in maximum shrinkage, to be experimented with care and at owner’s risk.
Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Retail $ 249.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, fine retailers around the World, and our Los Angeles ol’ pile o’ rags.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016
Our first MFSC Apaches Fall delivery is in!
If you’ve missed the Spring pitch, here it is again (if you know it by heart, skip the skit and scroll down for the low down on the SPECS)
The Paris of the Belle Époque (1900s) saw the emergence of a certain type of street outcasts. They lived in secret dens in the seedy and dimmed outskirts of the City of Lights, abhorred honest labor, hunted the Faubourgs and Quartier de Halles, and danced in local Guinguettes and dives, decked out in flamboyant outfits.
They were called Les Apaches…
Issued from the French lower working class, with a lack of education and absence of Future, they regrouped in loosely organized neighborhood gangs. Abiding by their own hoodlum code of honor, they woke up late, spoke the obscure slang Jare, and wore specific flashy clothes. Their dandy accoutrement combined with intimidating attitudes imposed both respect and fear from the Parisians and their police.
For 30 years, Paris’ Apaches gangs marked their territories by terrorizing honest bourgeois citizens, committing petty larceny, pimping and street fighting their lives away. For those who had ducked the knife and the bullet that bared their name or the ravage of the “Grande Guerre” (WW1), it was the inevitable outcome of Biribi or the Bagne de Cayenne.
In the 1920’s one a many high society dame was spotted mingling with charismatic Apache groups in local Java dance halls, letting her hair down in a famous Dance Apache, immortalized later by Hollywood (“Charlie Chan in Paris”, 1935) and several Broadway Shows. The French movie Casque d’Or (1953) relates a true story of a famous Apache event that took place in 1905.
Bourgeois newspapers of the period and universal fascination with the underworld turned the reign of the Apaches into a mix of myth and imagery that will forever mark the Paris of the 1900s to 1930s…
MFSC Fall 2011, APACHES Collection: Gilet de Ville métisse
SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting.
FABRIC: INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This fabric is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
LINING: Fully lined with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking.
BACK PANEL: Original MFSC lightweight black moleskine, all cotton, 5 oz.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button front.
DETAILS:
* Limited Edition.
* Four front slash pockets
* Two inside concealed chest flap pockets.
* Traditional darted back piece, with cinch back belt. Original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER: Will scratch car seats, sofas etc…) The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs (a “safer” metal buckle, used for the Japanese production, will be found in one of the pockets.)
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: The gilet comes RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
92 (small) Chest about 18 1/2” across, after rinse/dry.
97 (medium) Chest about 20” across, after rinse/dry.
102 (large) Chest about 21” across, after rinse/dry.
107 (X-Large) Chest about 22” across, after rinse/dry.
Some not-so-serious fit pix here
Gilet Métisse Sizing Chart
Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Retail $439.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
We thank you again for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.
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