heavy flannel « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt (“McG” plaid heavy flannel) & DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt (Indigo-covert plaid & Brown dobby stripe) FW2021 mfsc Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

: MF® Secoya McG plaid (Size Small)

: Vintage 1950s McGregor wool shirt, fabric inspiration for the MF® Secoya “McG”

: Vintage 1950s McGregor wool shirt.

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, “McG” plaid heavy flannel FW2021 edition.
mfsc Surplus Catalog.
Made in Japan.

The SECOYA pattern combines two vintage garments, a rare 1930’s pull-over chin-strap work chambray with no label, and a 1940’s STURDY OAK work chambray with elaborate “Double-Panel” construction.
The defunct STURDY OAK label, the workwear division of Sears, Roebuck & Co, produced its famous “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern, often complimented with “Ventilation Eyelets”. Other bygone mail-order catalog companies such as Montgomery Ward & Co, Spiegel or JCPenney also offered their versions in the 1940’s -50’s, all full open button front shirts. We thought of combining the fancy “Double-Panel” pattern with a pull-over type shirt, and the MF® SECOYA was born.
The term Secoya is Bad Hombre parlance for sequoia, a semantic nod to the vintage Sturdy Oak specimen that inspired this MF® pattern.

The “McG” is the third model of our SECOYA.
The original Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” pattern was introduced sometime during Spring 2019, and was initially released in a fine 3 Oz. indigo yarn “NTC” chambray, a fabric familiar to all mfsc OGs as it was the same indigo chambray used for the 2008 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Utility Shirt. That chambray fabric ages quite gracefully.

Well-worn MF® SECOYA Shirt, NCT chambray, 2019.

Inspired by “Big Mac” or “Five Bros” type heavy flannel work shirts, the follow-up model was the SECOYA “Winter King”, 8.25 Oz. indigo x red woven plaid, released during FW2020.

For FW2021, we pulled the fabric inspiration off a vintage 1950s McGregor wool shirt from our archives. If we wanted to closely replicate the unusual turquoise & red yarns combo of the original plaid pattern, we decided to replace the wool yarns by 100% cotton yarns. Our friends at Toyo Enterprises painstakingly milled this outstanding selvedge heavy flannel woven plaid for us in Japan. The SECOYA “McG” was born.

The “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt, “McG” heavy flannel edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Vintage-inspired 100% cotton classic woven plaid heavy flannel, turquoise & red dominant yarns, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage 1930’s-1940’s classic American fancy chambray work shirts.
* Pull-over style.
* “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern.
* Stitched ventilation Eyelets on underarm and back panels, green thread.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Chin strap.
* Natural poplin facing on front button placket/cuffs/chest pockets.
* White corozo wood “cat-eyes” buttons.
* Double chest pocketing, buttoned pockets.
* Concealed inside chest pocket, featuring the fabric selvedge.
* High-count 100% cotton tonal stitching, chainstitch construction.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The SECOYA “McG” heavy flannel Work Shirt comes raw/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold rinse/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation or one machine rinse cycle on delicate.
Washing machine spin dry.
Line dry. (No heat dryer)

We recommend wearing your usual mfsc shirting size, although I personally opted for a SMALL on the SECOYA heavy flannel. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/cold rinsed measurements. To reflect “real life” garment conditions, the shrink-tested shirts in the chart have been rinsed in a home washing machine, cold water, full spin cycle on delicate, and then line dried (no heat dryer.)

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

: MF® Dude Rancher indigo covert (Size Small)

: MF® Dude Rancher brown dobby stripe (Size Small)

: Vintage 1940s French “Velour d’Amiens” jacket.

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt, indigo-covert plaid & brown dobby stripe FW2021 edition.
mfsc Surplus Catalog.
Made in Japan.

The all-original Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER is our spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. The design features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.

The shirts buttons are painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

The DUDE RANCHER pattern has been previously released in black and white broadcloth (cotton poplin), 1930s-inspired printed shadow plaid, light indigo vat-dye chambray, “Joan” woven plaid, and “101” selvedge denim.

FW2021 sees the return of the DUDE RANCHER, with two new distinct fabric additions to this list.

First is a rare selvedge 100% cotton woven plaid, combining indigo yarns, covert yarns (a.k.a. salt & pepper), and black yarns, in a sturdy, dry hand, 9 Oz. fabric.
The inspiration for this unusual yarn combo came from the check lining of a vintage 1940s French corduroy coat (in Velour d’Amiens). The lining was just too good not to be replicated as-is, so we had the textile experts at Toyo Enterprises painstakingly mill a selvedge rendition of it in Japan, woven on vintage traditional machinery.

The second option is a 10.25 Oz. dark brown Dobby Stripes brushed fabric, with a soft hand and cosy, wintery feel. The stripe pattern is subtle, and noticeable in the textured Dobby weave rather than from a contrasting color.

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “Indigo-Covert” and “Brown Dobby Stripes” are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Two options:
a) Indigo-Covert plaid: Dry 100% cotton woven plaid, 9 Oz., combining indigo, covert (salt & pepper), and black yarns. Solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

b) Brown Dobby stripes: Soft hand brushed 100% cotton 10.25 Oz. dark brown Dobby Stripes fabric.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts and 1950s-60s dude ranch outfits.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
Both the “Indigo-Covert” and “Brown Dobby Stripes” DUDE RANCHER come RAW/unwashed. The shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Washing machine spin dry cycle.
Line dry. (No heat dryer)

We recommend wearing your usual mfsc shirting size, although I personally opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit, sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, indigo-red “Winter King” Heavy Flannel Edition, FW2020 mfsc Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Shop this smashing look at www.misterfreedom.com

Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt, selvedge “Winter King” heavy flannel edition.
FW2020 mfsc Surplus Collection.
Made in Japan.

The original Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” pattern was introduced sometime during Spring 2019, and initially released in a fine 3 Oz. indigo yarn “NTC” chambray, a fabric familiar to all mfsc OGs as it was the same indigo chambray used for the 2008 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Utility Shirt.

The term Secoya is Bad Hombre parlance for sequoia, a semantic nod to the vintage Sturdy Oak specimen that inspired this MF® pattern.

For FW2020, we decided to introduce a plaid version of the SECOYA. We pulled an old vintage “Winter King” heavy flannel shirt from our archives for inspiration, as it featured a beautiful classic woven plaid of red dominant and genuine indigo yarns. Our friends at Toyo Enterprises milled a phenomenal selvedged interpretation in Japan, in a hefty 8.25 Oz. weight.
The resulting plaid is indeed quite smashing, with the unusual use of indigo yarn adding a new dimension to a classic heavy flannel type fabric of the “Big Mac” or “Five Bros” family.
Our colorful SECOYA is complemented by indigo poplin accents on the button placket and cuffs facing, that will all contribute to the shirt aging gracefully with normal wash and wear. The green ventilation stitched eyelets and white corozo wood cat-eyes buttons add a 1940s-1950s workwear touch.

The “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt, “Winter King” heavy flannel edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Vintage-inspired 100% cotton classic woven plaid, 8.25 Oz., red dominant with genuine indigo yarns, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage 1930’s-1940’s classic American fancy chambray work shirts.
* Pull-over style.
* “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern.
* Stitched ventilation Eyelets on underarm and back panels, green thread.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Chin strap.
* Indigo poplin facing on front button placket/cuffs/chest pockets.
* White corozo wood “cat-eyes” buttons.
* Double chest pocketing, buttoned pockets.
* Concealed inside chest pocket
* High-count 100% cotton tonal stitching, chainstitch construction.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The SECOYA “Winter King” heavy flannel Work Shirt comes raw/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold rinse/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation or one machine rinse cycle on delicate.
Washing machine spin dry.
Line dry. (No heat dryer)

We recommend wearing your usual mfsc shirting size, although I personally opted for a SMALL on the SECOYA heavy flannel. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.

CHART

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, “Joan Plaid” flannel, FW2020 mfsc “TRUCK STOP” collection. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Snap Shirt, “Joan” plaid flannel edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.

Head over to Sesame Street, and get your ears on, Bubba! Imagine this CB convo:

A: “Breaker one-nine this here’s the Rubber Duck for that WATER HOLE capsule out of Shaky City. Put an eyeball on it good buddy! You gotta copy on me, C’mon?”

B: “That’s a 10-4 Rubber Duck, affirmative. Mercy sakes alive she’s a looker!
Well, looks like I got Evel Knievel on my donkey now, so i’ll back off the hammer. You too lil’ brother, stick to the double nickel, word is Kojak with a Kodak was spotted around your 20… Don’t feed the bears!”

A: “10-4 Bubba. Threes and eights. Keep the shiny side up. Over out.”

As a Four-Wheeler (a non-trucker) you probably missed a bit of the above exchange… But we’ve all watched Convoy and had the soundtrack as an ear worm at some point, and maybe made a few attempts at going full-on Rachet Jaw at karaoke? To brush-up on your 1970s Citizens Band (CB) radio lingo, here are a few clues to decode that convo:

Sesame Street: Channel 19, the “trucker channel” on CB radio.
Breaker One-Nine: prepping line when interrupting an ongoing convo on channel 19.
Rubber Duck: head vehicule of a convoy.
Water Hole: period slanguage for a highway Truck Stop.
Shaky City: Los Angeles.
10-4: copy that.
Double Nickel: 55 mph lane, speed limits fluctuate.
Evel Knievel on my donkey: motorcycle cop behind me.
10-20: one’s location
Bears: law enforcement in general.
Threes and eights: good luck/take care.
Keep the shiny side up: Safe driving, and keep the greasy side down.

Got a copy, good buddy?

Check out the “Over The Road” podcast and particularly this episode about the Trucking Industry history in the US, its place in American life, clarifying the concept of Wildcatters (aka independent trucker, owner operator, “gypsy”, scale-dodging outlaws with CB handles like “Bandit”, “Lone Ranger” etc) vs. Teamsters (Union drivers, more likely to be wearing company uniforms than western duds). The world of truckers – drivers as they refer to themselves, considered by some as the last of the cowboys – has also greatly contributed to American pop culture through the years, blessing us with no less than three volumes of Smokey and the Bandit, and other silver screen gems.
The 1979 documentary “On the Boulevard” gives a rare real-life glimpse of that industry at the time. The costume history-inclined can also find colorful period fashion statements in vintage Overdrive Magazine issues.

Now, about our shirt…
This iteration of our Dude Rancher shirt pattern leads the convoy (see what I did there) and introduces the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Fall 2020 mfsc “TRUCK STOP” collection. This capsule draws inspiration from the colorful world of the American independent trucker, with Mid-West style influences spanning 1950s to 1970s.

The DUDE RANCHER pattern is our spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. It features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.

Our shirt features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

The MF® Dude Rancher is already available in fine black and white broadcloth (cotton poplin), in a vibrant printed shadow plaid, and a light indigo vat-dye chambray.

We are introducing a new fabric this fall, an original plaid milled exclusively for us in Japan, and inspired by a beautiful 1950s Levi’s longhorn western shirt, belonging to a “Joan Saxe”, obviously a woman with exquisite tastes.

The vintage inspiration behind the fabric of the MF® Dude Rancher “Joan” plaid flannel.

Our interpretation of that vintage textile is a selvedge 8.25 Oz. woven plaid cotton flannel, with red and white dominant tones, and featuring actual indigo-dyed yarns in the weave. Our fabric, quite heavy and with a crisp dry hand, will over time fade to the tones of the vintage specimen.

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “Joan” plaid flannel is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Original 100% cotton woven plaid flannel, 8.25 Oz., selvedge, white and red dominant with indigo yarn highlights, milled in Japan exclusively for mfsc.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The “Joan” Plaid DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Spin dry and line dry.
Hang until fully dry.

I opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit (5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs), sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large