Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.64 LHT.
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Left-Hand Twill selvedge denim.
mfsc Sportman catalog SS2020.
Made in USA.
We named our popular classic five-pocket jeans the “Californian” because they are made in California, USA. The MF® Californian comes in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674.
The Californian family grows every season (see recent timeline here), often according to how lucky we get scoring interesting New Old Stock denims.
The first installment of mfsc Spring 2020 is the Californian LOT.64 LHT. This edition features an attractive and quite rare 13 Oz. left-hand twill denim, milled in Greensboro, N.C., by the legendary Cone Mills.
LHT weave is distinct from its more commun right-hand counterpart, as it displays a wale diagonally-going from left to right, as opposed to, you guessed it, right to left. Those familiar with vintage Lee® jeans will relate to this specific weave, as LHT denim has been the fabric of choice for many H.D. Lee classics, such as their iconic 101-J, Storm Rider jacket or Rider Jeans.
Left-hand twill denims come with their specificities, including a tightly-wound indigo warp (resulting in a softer hand), and a white weft more prevalent on the face (resulting in a lighter shade of denim fabric). Fading properties also differ, and well-worn LHT denim tends to display less high contrast than RHT. However, connoisseurs and lucky owners of authentic vintage faded Lee® specimen will attest to the very attractive subtle patina. In all honesty, we haven’t had time to “beat-up” a Lot.64 LHT yet, but the HQ will keep everyone posted.
The pocket bags are cut from a fancy indigo/white woven plaid NOS fabric.
The Lot.64 pattern is our most popular cut, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise, a silhouette inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans with a 1960’s twist.
If our 64 pattern has been fairly consistant throughout the years, the specific drape/weight/color of each denim does alter the silhouette of each model. Visually, this season’s NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. LHT release has a slightly more generous leg than the recently-issued 16 Oz. Midnight denim Lot.64 MD. The fit is somewhat closer to our Lot.54 than other Lot.64s, so please consider sizing down if you are set on the usual Lot.64 silhouette, and if the rinsed measurements work for you.
The Californian LOT.64 LHT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from NOS American denim fabric.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo Left-Hand Twill denim, white/red line selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags: NOS 100% cotton indigo/white woven plaid fabric.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS indigo/white woven plaid 100% cotton pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge buttonhole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original MF® silver-color ‘oxidized’ metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (red).
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
All the Californian blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will technically shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
This specific Californian Lot.64 LHT edition is cut with a generous waist (referred to as “vanity sizing”), and a rinsed W32 will end-up measuring closer to 33 inches.
The Waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit.
I opted for a W31 with this model (my current size in MF® Californians), for a comfortable top block and generous straight leg silhouette. The resulting fit is closer to that of the Lot.54BB than our classic Lot.64. I personally could have gone down to a W30, but decided to stick to W31.
For those partial to the usual slimmer silhouette of the 64s, and should the rinsed measurements work out, consider sizing down on the LOT.64 LHT.
As with all denim twills, subtle shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please note that, for this model, soaking in hot water or using an electric clothes dryer will hardly result in extra shrinkage after the initial cold soak.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. (soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)
 
CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
 
 
 
 
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MF® RB “Midnight” denim ©2019
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Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Lot.64MD, 16 Oz. selvedge “Midnight Denim”.
FW2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
We are excited to release this anticipated combo for FW2019, our staple Californian Lot.64 and Ranch Blouse patterns in a smashing 16 Oz. “Midnight Denim” (MD)!
This original mfsc fabric was previously featured on the 2015 MF® Caban Peacoat, and we couldn’t wait to get a fresh new batch milled again for this 2019 project. The dark indigo warp and black weft give this twill an almost solid black appearance, enhanced by deep blue undertones and by the prospect of a very attractive indigo patina developing overtime.
Our classic Ranch Blouse (drafted sometime back in 2010) and Californian Lot.64 pattern are consistent with previous iterations available here, so I will spare the reader the usual lengthy introduction. Whether going for the full matching top/bottom ‘Man-in-Black’ look, or pairing either piece with traditional blue denim, this “Midnight” combo is versatile and classic enough to keep you on the cool side of the street for some time.
The “Midnight” Ranch Blouse and Californian LOT.64MD (available separately) are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from denim fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS
Fabric:
16 Oz. “Midnight” Denim, dark indigo warp x black weft, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Pocketing/facing: NOS 10.5 Oz. crosshatch “PLAYER” denim twill, light indigo moss blue-green color, cotton-linen blend, EU origin.
“Midnight” RANCH BLOUSE:
DETAILS:
* Early round-type collar, A-1 style.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original MF® “M” stitching on chest pockets.
* Single pocket flap.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* NOS moss blue denim twill facing for collar and pocket flap.
* Brass cast MF® branded tack buttons.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked hardware with backing leather washer.
* Subtly contrasting two-tone stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear waist band.
* Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label.
* Made in USA
SIZING FIT:
The “Midnight” Ranch Blouse comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in this “Midnight” edition, a cold-soaked 38. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
“Midnight” CALIFORNIAN Lot.64MD:
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS moss blue denim twill pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear pocket.
* Subtly contrasting two-tone stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Combination of brass/silver original MF® branded metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper black “MD” pocket flasher.
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The “Midnight” Californian LOT.64MD blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W31 with this model (I am usually a W32 in MF® Californians), for a comfortable fit with a snug top block and straight leg silhouette.
As with all denim twills, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
DENIM CARE:
The specific “Midnight” denim features dark indigo warp (the color visible on face of the fabric) combined with a black weft (visible on the reverse.) As with all indigo-dyed denim, croaking (bleeding) is to be expected. The indigo color will rub on light color garments and furniture. The black will not rub.
Wash denim jeans and jackets when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
 
Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian LOT.64 BB “OKINAWA” edition.
Sportsman catalog, mfsc SS2019 RESTOCK.
Made in USA.
These two numbers were initially released during FW2017.
All sizes of the popular Mister Freedom® “OKINAWA” Californian Lot64BB and Ranch Blouse are back in stock for SS2019.
Fabric and specs are exactly the same as the original release.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans.
Made in USA.
Our popular classic five-pocket jeans are called “Californian” because they are made in California, USA.
The MF® Californians come in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by main Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674.
Through the years, we have issued various iterations of these Lots, showcasing assorted selvedge denims and trim options, released in the USA in rigid/loomstate form only:
* Californian Lot.54 (Yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, button fly, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.44 (Box packaging, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, button fly, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
* Californian Lot.44R (Reissue, w/o packaging, 2018): Same as Lot.44 but issued in NOS Cone 13.Oz sanforized denim twill.
* Californian Lot.64 (Red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, zipper fly, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim.
* Californian Lot.654 (Yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, button fly, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64E (Red/White stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.674 (Ivory white paper flasher, 2017): Top block of the Lot.64 mixed with tapered leg of the Lot.74, button fly, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64BB (Dark navy paper flasher, 2017): Lot.64 with added Buckle-Back cinch, button fly, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64OG (Venice Beach Sunset paper flasher, 2018): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, button fly, issued in NOS 15.5 Oz. organic Cone Mills denim.
Asides from our MF® Californians, we also offer a wide range of non five-pocket denim trousers.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
   
 Californian blue jeans Lot.64OG, worn & washed (about 4-month intermitent wear.) 
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Color reference: Worn Californian Lot.64BB (Okinawa denim), worn and unworn Californian Lot.64OG (Organic denim)
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Mister Freedom® Californian indigo blue jeans Lot.64 OG , Organic cotton, NOS 15.5 Oz.Cone Mills selvedge denim twill.
Spring 2018 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
If you were planning on adding a pair of jeans to your wardrobe menu, here is an “organic” version of our Californian, specifically designed for raw foodies.
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Our MF® Californian blue jeans Lot.64 OG are cut from an older stock of premium denim from Cone Mills, and feature… ORGANIC cotton!
Not that anything about the process of making denim apparel usually epitomizes much of an eco-friendly gesture from us and the ever-booming international Denim Industry. In 2018, well over one billion pairs of blue jeans will likely change hands on the blue planet. This unrestrained consumerism means extensive farming of genetically-modified cotton (largely China and India), high water consumption of indigo-dyeing and yarn-bleaching inherent to milling denim, unnecessary chemical ’vintage’ washes favored by many contemporary labels to boost sales, cleverly-planned obsolescence of disposable fast-fashion jeans with convincing “bargain” price tags, etc…
As regular purveyors of selvedge denim wearables and members of this fine Industry, we, at Mister Freedom®, are well aware that featuring “organic denim” for Spring 2018 only buys us a temporary good conscience. The most we will claim is a determination to stick to environmentally-conscious countries for milling, sourcing and manufacturing denim, such as USA and Japan.
In any case, some time before hearing the sad news of the shutting down of Cone Denim White Oak plant in Greensboro, N.C., we secured a nice cargo of New Old Stock Cone 15.5 Oz organic denim. With an attractive raw indigo hue somewhat reminiscent of the color of rigid 501 Levi’s® one could pick-up from Army/Navy surplus stores in the 1970’s-80’s, this fabric was a perfect candidate for our Californian blue jeans family, the humble Mister Freedom® contribution to the crowded world of five-pocket jeans.
After road-testing an early proto, a few months of normal wear and a few washes later, the denim evo showed similarities with the “Malibu” denim we used on the Spring 2017 Conductor Jacket, Speedways, etc… No high contrast fading or fast indigo abrasion (unlike the sugar cane fiber “Okinawa” denim of the Lot.64 BB), no impressive Friday-special honeycombs, but a beautiful and uncommon indigo blue, a blessing for the denim-on-denim creative connoisseur who loves mixing-up his indigoes.
Feb 20, 2018 UPDATE: We received a kind and insightful email from our friend Chip at Cone Denim giving us the actual background of this specific fabric. Chip knows a thing or two about this organic indigo denim, as he personally developed it at the time:
“We (Cone Denim) partnered with Stony Creek Colors in Tennessee who are working with Tobacco farmers to change their crops into indigo plant.
This is how the fabric gets to be such a vibrant blue, and is completely unique from any other dye we have ever run in the past.
It truly is one of the greatest, and most sustainable, selvedges we put out: Texas organic cotton, America indigo plant dye, all woven here in the US.”
The pocket bag fabric we opted for is an old stock of sturdy 100% cotton woven plaid with warm saffron/yellow tones, enhanced by the most flamboyant Californian paper flasher to date, featuring an enchanting sunset in Venice Beach, California, hotter than a 1970’s Playboy® magazine fashion ad.
For the vintage packaging collector, here is a recap of the colorful Mister Freedom® five-pocket blue jeans pocket flashers released in the past 8 years:
* Californian Lot.54 (Yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.44 (Box packaging, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
* Californian Lot.64 (Red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim…
* Californian Lot.654 (Yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64E (Red/White stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.674 (Ivory white paper flasher, 2017): Top block of the Lot.64 mixed with tapered leg of the Lot.74, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64BB (Dark navy paper flasher, 2017): Lot.64 with added Buckle-Back cinch, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64OG (Venice Beach Sunset paper flasher, 2018): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, issued in NOS 15.5 Oz. organic Cone Mills denim.
The Mister Freedom® Lot.64 OG are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 15.5 Oz. indigo twill denim, Organic cotton, solid white selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags:
NOS 100% cotton woven plaid fabric, saffron/yellow check pattern.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* New Old Stock woven plaid fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (Venice Beach, CA., enchanting sunset edition).
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.64 OG (organic cotton) blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process. Note that this specific denim is pretty much sanforized and will not move much.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing: cold soak for about 30mn/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.
The word is to go for your usual mfsc (Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane) waist size. I opted for a Waist 32 in the Lot.64OG, my usual size in the MF® Californian family.
As with all denim twills, slight back-and-forth shrinkage/stretching will occur for a while, fluctuating according to the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.(Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry, ie. minimal shrinkage.)
 
CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
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