Mister Freedom® MFSC Fall 2012 (Part 8): The “FARO BRITCHES”

Faro Britches rig Mister Freedom® ©2012

Mister Freedom® MFSC “FARO BRITCHES”
Men of the Frontier Fall 2012

Wrapping up a busy year and, along with it, our Men of the Frontier collection, here is the final Fall chapter: The FARO BRITCHES.

For these trousers, we have combined our original ‘Britches Chaparral‘ pattern with the linen/cotton HBT selvedge fabric from our ‘Faro Sack Coat” and ‘Faro Waistcoat‘.
I have yet to wear the Faro ‘three piece suit’, ‘Ditto Suit’ style, but I often mix two matching pieces with a contrasting third. For instance Faro sack coat and waistcoat worn with stripe ‘gunslinger’ type trousers or just a good pair of jeans. Or HBT Faro Britches and Waistcoat with an old leather jacket or MF® cotton Sack Coat
But enough shameless self promo, you know what works for you better than I do 😉

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted by Sugar Cane Co in Japan for MFSC. Limited edition.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1930’s-1940’s work type trousers and cotton gentleman slacks, borrowing from both the American West and the Old World. Mid/high rise.

FABRIC:
“Gun Powder” black (between field grey and dark laurel green), wide HBT (herringbone twill), selvedge, 20% Cotton/80% Linen blend, 15 Oz. Woven in Japan.
Pocketing and waist Lining: HBT cotton (ochre color), an original MFSC fabric, woven in Japan (same fabric we used for the lining of the Faro Waistcoat)

DETAILS:
* Selvedge outer leg seam.
* Slash type front pockets, with inner selvedge angled stitched fold.
* Gun metal color donut button fly with double button waist.
* Two slash rear pockets, with arrowhead type button flaps.
* Watch pocket
* Trousers tailor-made type pocket bags construction and lining, with 100% cotton original HBT fabric. All biased taped edges.
* Black color 100% cotton thread high-count stitching
* Flat felled seam seat construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the Faro Britches comes in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use.

SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
About 2-5% shrinkage on this fabric. If you are usually a 32 waist, get a tagged 32.
We recommend an original cold soak and line dry. Subsequent cleaning should be done with the trousers flipped inside/out (to avoid marbling), gentle cycle, cold water, with minimal environmentally friendly detergent and line dry.
NOTE:  Full washing cycle in warm water and machine dry WILL result in more shrinkage (around 5%) and color loss. NOT recommended.

See chart below for raw and post cold soak/line dry approx. measurements:

Faro Britches measurements Mister Freedom® ©2012

 

Available RAW/Unwashed
Tagged Sizes (= will shrink to sizes):
W28 × L33
W30 × L33
W32 × L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L34
W38 × L34
RETAIL: $549.95

Call 323-653-2014 or mail [email protected] to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, friends.

Mister Freedom® MFSC Fall 2012 (Part 7): The “RANCH HAND” flannel shirt

Tom Ranch Hand flannel shirt, Calif Lot54 ©2012 Mister Freedom® Cory Piehowicz Photography

Mister Freedom® MFSC ‘RANCH HAND’ shirt
‘Men of the Frontier’ Collection, Fall 2012

We caught up with our horsemen back at the bivouac, after somewhat of a wild ride… In time to introduce the 7th installment of our Fall 2012 collection: The ‘Ranch Hand’ flannel shirt.

Alert the medias, this shirt is our first plaid flannel shirt ever! Never a dull moment in our MFSC collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, eh 😉

We based the woven plaid pattern/weight on a vintage ‘King Kole’ work shirt from our inspiration sample stash. We then picked each yarn apart and combined our own colors to create two different yarn-dyed plaid fabrics exclusive to MFSC, milled in Japan in a small batch. Should you see the exact same plaid from another company next year, you’ll know where it came from.
Our ‘Ranch Hand’ body pattern and cut are inspired by a range of 1930’s~40’s dress shirts, western shirts and work shirts, not the more common ‘Big Mac’ type flannel shirts. We also opted for painted metal snap buttons, a nod to vintage 1950’s ‘Maverick’, Blue Bell Wrangler® and Penney’s ‘Ranchraft’ plaid flannel shirts.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in limited edition by Sugar Cane Co in Japan for our collaboration MFSC collection.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An all original MFSC® pattern, inspired by 30’s and 40’s shirting.

FABRICS: Two options, woven in Japan.
a) ‘Turquoise’ woven plaid:  100% cotton 8 oz. Yarn dyed, color combination teal/turquoise/off white/red
b) ‘Sienna’ woven plaid:  100% cotton 8 oz. Yarn dyed, color combination brown/beige/orange/yellow
We do not use chemical washes to make our garment look/feel ‘vintage’, we address that at the pattern design stage.

DETAILS:
* All original MFSC pattern, slimmer silhouette.
* Narrow chin strap collar, with 1920’s NOS french glass buttons.
* Indigo dyed cotton popeline button placket facing and collar facing.
* Original double chest pockets, box pleat type, with indigo popeline reinforcement patch on inside.
* “Dot” white painted metal snap front and cuff closure (the paint will slowly chip off with wear/wash)
* ‘Tear drop’ front tail shape, with overlap, to keep that belly to yourself.
* Selvedge indigo popeline side gussets.
* Curved back shoulder yoke.
* One piece folded cuff placket.
* Original woven MFSC label on tucked-in front tail, stamped with sizing.
* Double needle flat felled seam side construction.
* High count stitching, 100% cotton ivory color thread.

PACKAGING: Sturdy cardboard box with MF® original ‘finer than frog hair’ artwork. Please re-use and recycle.

SHRINKAGE/SIZING: Both fabric options come raw/unwashed.
After shrinkage, both plaids will shrink to the same specs. I am a 38/medium/15½ in MFSC shirting, and I wear a 15½ in the ‘Ranch Hand’ shirt.

Ranch Hand Shirt SIZING chart

We recommend an original cold gentle cycle, and line dry. Subsequent washing should be done with turning the shirt inside out, gentle cycle with eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry is preferred.
Let the colors fade naturally with normal wash/wear.

Available RAW/unwashed

Sizes
14½ (small)
15½ (medium)
16½ (large)
17½ (xlarge)
18½ (xxlarge)

Retail $379.95

Call 323-653-2014 or mail [email protected] to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you again for the continuing support, friends.

Mister Freedom® MFSC Fall 2012 (Part 6): The “BUCKAROOS Waist Overalls”, made in California, USA.

Buckaroos horsing around ©2012 Mister Freedom®

Mister Freedom® MFSC ‘BUCKAROOS’ Waist Overalls, made in USA.
‘Men of the Frontier’ Collection, Fall 2012

Introducing our humble contribution to the crowded World of blue jeans this season, the 6th installment of our ongoing “Men of the Frontier” saga, the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC “BUCKAROOS” Waist Overalls.

The term ‘buckaroo’ has its commonly agreed on origin in the late 1800s days of the American Frontier, when Spanish settlers were heard calling cowboys and ranch hands vaqueros. For those not familiar with the Spanish language, the anglicized version and phonetic spelling caught on.

As some of you might have noticed on the original artwork of our previous Spring ‘Men of the Frontier’ boxes, we have come up with a ‘new’ back cinch strap pattern. This one was not lifted from any vintage sample, it just came out of the drawing table and trial & error prototype making in our studio.
(Someone did mention having seen a similar pattern on a vintage catalog that I’m not aware of. That wouldn’t be surprising as nihil novi sub sole seems to apply to clothing design.)
We matched our original back yoke/strap construction with a ‘western’ type front pockets pattern. The folded flap that could button up to the pocket yoke came handy, when horseback riding or sitting on a bouncy old truck bench seat, to prevent the content of pockets from spilling out. There are many examples of this type of front pocket construction on western slacks, although it is uncommon on denim dungarees besides a rare iconic model made by HeadLight in the 30’s~40’s. Check out below this awesome kids pair of blue jeans from our vault, and that shot of Gary Cooper, ever so dapper, wearing a western patterned pair of slacks (photo ©LIFE)

30s-40s HeadLight kids jeans Mister Freedom® Archives Gary Cooper Slacks ©LIFE

The silhouette of our Buckaroos is similar to that of our Californian Blue Jeans Lot54 and Lot44, with a very slightly narrower bottom part of the leg. As always, those blue jeans are NO skinnies, as we leave that desirable look to other jeans makers. The silhouette references can be seen on vintage cow puncher and vaqueros imagery from the fascinating photographic works of Arthur Rothstein, Russell Lee and other FSA appointed documentalists.
(below photos courtesy of Library of Congress)

Arthur Rothstein 1939 Russell Lee 1939 buckaroos Arthur Rothstein, branding fire 1939 Arthur Rothstein, Montana 1939

Our Buckaroos blue jeans are not cut from a classic ‘five pocket’ typical pattern, since we thought that cow had been milked and needed some rest for now.

We have chosen to use two types of New Old Stock American milled denim, found in a local dusty warehouse, making the production of the Buckaroos limited to small batches. The two different selvedge denim twills are referred to as B2 and B5.

The labeling story behind the Buckaroos double branding comes from a Ranch foreman purchasing his wranglers their denim jeans from the local maker. The jeans were then identified as Ranch property by stitching a branded leather label on top of the maker’s patch…
Don’t look that story up as I made it up, but here is a little homemade clip of the fun branding process, if you are bored to death.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

PHOTOGRAPHY NOTES: The photos above are a mix of buckaroos in RAW condition (that’s how they come), one rinse, and my personal worn pair (on and off for about 3-4 months, not for sale.)
The featured photo is a ‘making of’ teaser of a shoot directed by talented photographer Matt Hind, from the mighty fine MEN’S FILE publication. Don’t miss Issue 08, a special on denim & workwear, coming out in January 2013, with the REAL photos of that session…
Additionally, in this month’s CLUTCH Magazine (another fine new publication, from the Editor of the Japanese legendary LIGHTNING Magazine, Mr. Atsushi Matsushima), the buckaroos are featured, motion picture style! Spaghetti Western meets Manga.

And now, the long overdue…

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by western slacks, vintage denim dungarees and old imagery.

FABRIC:
Two options of raw New Old Stock American milled denim twill, indigo dyed, 3×1, selvedge.
B2: Dark indigo dyed selvedge denim, about 12+ Oz. Sanforized. Somewhat of a 1950’s feel to it.
B5: Indigo dyed selvedge denim, about 11 Oz. Width shrinkage from 3 to 5%. Lighter in weight than B2, with an early work wear fabric type feel.
Pocket lining: 100% cotton NOS woven plaid twill, indigo/white (two similar types, shown in above photo gallery)

DETAILS:
* ‘Old West’ silhouette, revisited.
* Original front pocket with folding buttoned flap. Reinforcement un-marked copper riveting.
* Original MFSC upper curved cinch back strap, sandwiched in the back yoke, riveted.
* Wider rear belt loops, to fit your concha belt.
* Metal donut crest buttons, ‘old stock’ finish.
* Concealed rivets on back pockets with original “M” stitch and slightly curved opening.
* Original double labeling. One printed cloth label with original artwork mounted during construction, partially superimposed by a leather patch with “MF” hot branding.
* All 100% cotton color thread. We are using an original MFSC combination of 12 types of gauge/color thread per pair. Main colors are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast.
* All cotton New Old Stock woven plaid pocket bags.

PACKAGING: Sturdy cardboard box with MF® original ‘finer than frog hair’ artwork. Please re-use.

SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
Both denim options come raw/unwashed and will shrink to approximately the same proportions. Both fabrics will shrink from approximately 1% to 5%, depending on the specific lot number of the milled batch. Variations are beyond our control and inherent to shuttle loom machinery inconsistency, and to the ‘risky biz’ of using (often un-labeled) NOS denim.
Stamped sizes on the cloth patch are the POST RINSE/DRY measurements.
We recommend an original cold soak, no agitation, spin dry and line dry.
See chart bellow for approximate measurements.

(Chart soon)

Available RAW/unwashed (again, the photos of the used jeans above are just for reference, and NOT how they will come)
SIZES: (= marked and post shrink) Waist x Length
28 x 32
29 x 32
30 x 32
31 x 32
32 x 34
33 x 34
34 x 34
36 x 34
38 x 34

Retail $299.95

Call 323-653-2014 or mail [email protected] to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Señoras y Caballeros, thank you for the support, always.

Mister Freedom® MFSC Fall 2012 (Part 4): The “RENO Shirt”

Logan Cristian Lamp Mister Freedom® Cory Piehowicz ©2012

Mister Freedom® MFSC ‘Reno Shirt’
‘Men of the Frontier’ Collection, Fall 2012

Trailing right along, let us introduce the 4th installment of our Fall 2012 endeavor:  The Reno Shirt.

Taking it’s moniker from the original title of a 1956 movie “The Reno Brothers” (better known as “Love Me Tender” and featuring a young artist bound to alter musical History and Pop culture, like something solid), this garment draws inspiration from early homesteader shirting and Western Cinemascope imagery.
We combined early Frontier garb ‘home made’ feel with fancy imported fabrics and trims one could get his hands on at the local dry goods store. We used a then popular pull-over style, giving it our own treatment and an original MFSC pattern.
One of the inspirational pieces for our Reno was a rare vintage early obscure ‘ethnic’ man’s blouse, roughly made from homespun woven textile. It featured a one piece collar band and pleated front and back, with ‘primitive’ construction.
We used original 1920’s glass buttons, a New Old Stock found in France during a wild goose chase buying trip.

Because easy has yet to do it around here we chose to develop three very different original fabrics for the Reno options. Selected from our textiles archives, all three have a vintage 1900-1930’s European origin and were expertly milled in Japan on narrow shuttle loom machines:
a) BLACK SNOW CALICO: We used the traditional and tedious ‘discharge’ print method for both calico options. Again, the motif is not a ‘print’ per se, but a ‘bleached out’ section. For a glimpse of the technical aspect of that process, read the first 48 pages of this book.
(insert DOW)
Instead of the poplin base we have used for our previous calico printed shirts, we have chosen to use cotton twill this season. This ‘snow’ option has a brushed back, giving it a warm, soft feel. This was a fabric of choice for winter workman shirts in France, as seen on vintage pieces.
b) INDIGO DOT CALICO: Same ‘discharge’ technique on this one, but with un-brushed back. Vintage photography attests that small tiny printed shirting fabrics were not the ‘girly’ thing associated with it later on in post 1950’s Fashion. From hairy lumberjacks, to coaled faced train conductors, to fierce American Indian warriors, to 1800s Texas Rangers, such patterns were quite the Man’s man’s favorite.
c) INDIGO TICKING: A woven indigo/white pin stripe fabric, popular workwear fabric in the late 1800’s France. Very slubby, it has a desirable homespun aspect.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in limited edition by Sugar Cane Co in Japan for our collaboration MFSC collection.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An all original MFSC® pattern, inspired by early American pioneer wear and its Cinemascope renditions.

FABRICS: Three options
a) Black Snow Calico:  Selvedge 100% cotton 6 oz. twill with brushed back, discharge print.
b) Indigo Dot Calico: Selvedge 100% cotton 6 oz. twill, discharge print.
c) Indigo Ticking: Selvedge 100% cotton 4.5 oz. indigo woven pin stripe.

DETAILS:
* An original MFSC pattern, pull-over style, inspired by early Old West imagery.
* One piece collar.
* Double top buttons.
* Button placket facing with indigo dyed cotton poplin.
* Double expansion chest pleats on back and front panels.
* Original vintage French NOS 1920’s glass buttons.
* Longer ‘square’ back tail, contrasting with front curved shorter panel.
* Original side gussets, indigo dyed cotton poplin.
* Original MFSC woven rayon label on bottom of the button placket, early European Henley shirts style.
* Narrow-width side chainstitch and single needle machine construction.
* 100% cotton thread contrast stitching, high count.
PACKAGING: Sturdy cardboard box with MF® original ‘finer than frog hair’ artwork 😉 Please re-use.

SHRINKAGE/SIZING: All three fabric options come raw/unwashed.
After shrinkage, all fabrics will approximately shrink to the same specs. I am a 38/medium/15½ in MFSC shirting, and I wear a 15½ in the Reno Shirt.

Reno Shirts Sizing chart

We recommend an original cold soak and line dry. Subsequent washing should be done with turning the shirts inside out, gentle cycle and eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry is preferred.
Some bleeding is expected with the indigo dyed fabric and yarns, due to the nature of indigo dyed textiles.

Available RAW/unwashed

Sizes
14½ (small)
15½ (medium)
16½ (large)
17½ (xlarge)
18½ (xxlarge)

Retail $399.95

Call 323-653-2014 or mail [email protected] to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you again for the continuing support, friends.

The Bandit Photographer strikes again… CORY PIEHOWICZ Photography Inc. works

Justin Tina John Tom by Cory Piehowicz Photography ©2012

Just a teaser shot of a fun photoshoot we did last week with a group of solid troopers. Shot by our dear friend, the talented Cory ‘Bandit’ Piehowicz, visiting from Columbus, Ohio.
Many more photos to come, it takes a while to edit…
If we, at times, look like we’re taking ourselves too seriously, put the blame on me for holding on to the goofball & crack-up shots 😉

The clothes are from Mister Freedom®, a mix of MFSC®, MF® Originals and vintage. We were all wearing our own clothes, no stylists involved, loosely based on a ‘Men of the Frontier’ meets ‘Les Apaches’ theme.

Many thanks again to all involved, by alphabetical order:
Cristian “Pinkerton” Dascalu
Cory “Bandit” Piehowicz
John “Undertaker” Platt
Justin “Medicine Man” Coates
Logan “Ellis Island” O’Brien
Mark Randal
Michael ‘Miner Mike’ Harris
Tina “De La Hacienda” Wakino
Tom “Texas” Pogue
Much obliged for embarking on that journey, friends, thanks for the memories…

CL