Mister Freedom® BERKELEY Shirt, Revisited Button-Up Pattern.
NOS Indigo Dobby Stripe edition.
SS2023 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
This edition is a full button-up version of our classic button-down collar BERKELEY Shirt pattern, an early 1960s-inspired garment with a vintage preppy vibe, a nod to 1960s American campuses attire, California old-school collegial wear and casual Ivy-League style. The moniker is a reference to UC Berkeley, and its rich history.
Several versions (in short-sleeve or long-sleeve) of our BERKELEY are available in the Mister Freedom® USA-made “Sportsman” catalog, a pattern introduced with the original 2018 Bleeding Madras S/S edition.
Followed a string of timeless classics, produced in limited runs:
* NOS indigo/white hickory stripe L/S
* NOS brown “Cacao” chambray L/S
* NOS traditional navy/white plaid Madras L/S
* NOS “Krazy” Madras S/S
* NOS Albini Italian linen red/blue woven checks S/S
* NOS Albini Italian white/blue woven stripe L/S
For this release, we tweaked the BERKELEY’s pull-over pattern into a full open-front style, aka button-up pattern.
The fabric we opted for — scored in a Downtown LA jobber warehouse — is one of the most unusual textile we’ve worked with! A very peculiar New Old Stock indigo Dobby Stripe with amazing texture, pattern, and incredible slub, origin unknown. The fabric is reminiscent of a specific family of antique hand-loomed Japanese textiles, for those familiar with our vintage boro selection at LA HQ.
Very temperamental and challenging to cut/sew — production was a tour de force for the local factory — this beautiful fabric takes all its vintage appeal and uniqueness after the shirt is first rinsed.
Just be ready: the indigo color will pop, texture intensify, ribbed woven pattern subtly oscillate, seams/stitching pucker, panels organically torque, …, turning the BERKELEY into an incredible AREA 7161 wall hanger!
This shirt was, however, designed and intended to be worn, so do take it out around town, and enjoy compliments from random strangers.
The BERKELEY is an easy-to-wear garment with a classic menswear style vibe, to be paired with your favorite jeans, NV slacks, Sportsman chinos or bermudas…
The MF® BERKELEY shirt is designed and made in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage 1960’s Ivy League style, and American campuses attire with a period preppy vibe. This edited pattern is a full button-up version of our original pull-over Berkeley Shirts.
FABRIC:
Vintage New Old Stock indigo Dobby Stripe, dry hand 100% cotton, attractive woven pattern with unusual slubby horizontal ribs, textured and breathable, origin unknown.
DETAILS:
* Full button-up open front revised pattern.
* Long sleeve edition.
* Classic 1960s button-down collar.
* Indigo-dyed corozo wood “Cat-Eyes” buttons.
* Two inverted-pleat chest pockets.
* Side gussets.
* Tailored-style sleeve setting.
* High count 100% cotton stitching.
* Chain-stitch caballo construction, featuring “Sportsman” green thread accent on inside.
* MF® woven “Sportsman” rayon label.
* Designed and made in USA from New Old Stock fabric.
SIZING/FIT:
The BERKELEY Shirt, indigo Dobby stripe edition, comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this straight-forward easy protocol:
- Rinse in cold water, machine setting on delicate, full cycle.
- Line dry, no heat dryer.
At 5’7 ~145 lbs, I opted for a SMALL for a trim fit, classic 1960s silhouette, personal preference. We recommend getting your usual size in MF® shirts, or size up for a more relaxed cut.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate soaked/rinsed measurements, and reach out to sales@misterfredom.com for further sizing advise.
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024
 New MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Ruby Red version, Day 1 of an experimental “Sunshine” treatment.  MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Ruby Red, after a month of outside exposure in the California sun, as an experimental “Sunshine” treatment for colorfastness. 
 MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Indigo Blue, after a month of outside exposure in the California sun, as an experimental “Sunshine” treatment for colorfastness. 
 MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Black, after a month of outside exposure in the California sun, as an experimental “Sunshine” treatment for colorfastness.
 MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, new and month-long “Sunshine” treatment (only experimental) 
 Original “Stunt Gladiators of Hollywood” wooden truck tailgate from the 1978 movie HOOPER, now hanging at MF® HQ, scored in a California Desert thrift store, sometime in 2021! Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt, corduroy edition.
FW2022 mfsc HOOPER Collection.
Made in Japan.
The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA introduced during Fall 2013 and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics was our first traditional “Western snap” shirt.
Its much fancier successor, the all-original MF® “DUDE RANCHER”, is our second spin on a western-style shirt pattern. The pattern is inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts from our archives, each with specific variations of a style pioneered by Rockmount Ranch Wear legendary CEO Jack Weil starting circa 1946. “Papa Jack”, as he was called, is credited as the father of the modern Western shirt, and the first “designer” to opt for snap button closure, vs. the earlier 1930s shank button styles.
Our DUDE RANCHER pattern was of course twisted MF® style and has become a Mister Freedom® staple since its 2019 poplin debut in our catalog. It definitely became popular in Italy… It is today available in a wide range of old school fabrics.
The MF® DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes, but we decided on arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt not too “costumey”. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
Another distinctive design choice are the painted metal snaps, reminiscent of sought-after vintage 1950s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell western shirts, as previously featured on the MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional Western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.
The fabric choice for this “HOOPER” edition is inspired by a mid 1950s vintage dressy corduroy shirt from our archives, bearing the famous Texas-made defunct “Tem-Tex” label. Corduroy western-cut shirts are quite unusual, so the fabric became a good candidate for us. We sourced out a Japan-milled fancy all-cotton 14W grade (14 wales per inch), similar to the Tem-Tex original, in a rich Ruby Red, Ivory White, genuine Indigo Blue, and Black options.
Our choice of black rayon fabric as the collar band facing is also a reference to the fancy Tem-Tex specimen.
 Vintage 1950s “TEM-TEX” Western shirt from the Mister Freedom® Archives, color inspiration for the MF® Dude Rancher 2022 corduroy edition. We went for tonal stitching on three of the color options, but decided to jazz-up the indigo version with an attractive contrast yellow/gold thread combo. Finer than frog hair if you ask me.
To experiment with color fastness, and because chemically-distress garments are against our religion, we submitted three samples to the California sun for about a month. The body of the shirts were stuffed with paper and set on mannequins fully exposed to the elements, moved around occasionally, same process as our Sunshine Edition Ts & jackets. These experimental prototypes are photographed here for potential “evo” reference only, not available for purchase.
The MF® DUDE RANCHER Western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
Fancy 100% cotton 14W corduroy, milled in Japan.
Four color options: Ruby Red, Ivory White, Indigo Blue (genuine indigo), and Black.
SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s Western-style shirts.
* Original Western-wear arcuate front and back yokes combo.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching. (Indigo version features fancy yellow/orange combo contrast stitching)
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Intricate diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label, blending well with our “HOOPER” storyline.
* Made in Japan, slowly produced.
SIZING/FIT:
The corduroy MF® DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
I opted for a MEDIUM on this corduroy version of the DUDE RANCHER, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit. (I’m 5.7’’ approx. 145 Lbs.)
Please note that I sized down on earlier versions, so do refer to sizing chart for approximate soaked measurements to properly dial in your size.
This is how we measure. Please use those guidelines to compare measurements of a garment of a similar style you own (i.e. a shirt), and that fits according to your liking.
When in doubt, reach out to the MF® Team sales@misterfreedom.com with your body measurements and fit expectations to get educated sizing recommendations.
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
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Smoking is NOT a smart thing to do, but there’s hope for all. I’ve quit since then.
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MFxBR “PENSACOLA Seaplane Jacket, Intermediate”
Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s 20th Anniversary Jacket
Fall 2013
We were honored to be involved with our friends at BUZZ RICKSON’S celebration of their 20th Anniversary this year.
To commemorate their dedication and passion at making outstanding mil-specs replica garments for two decades as a branch of Toyo Enterprises, Mr. Kameya (Buzz Rickson’s Skipper) give us carte blanche for a special limited edition piece, granting access to the entire BR catalog of trims/fabrics and expert manufacturing. Oh boy…
MF® came up with a simplified scenario to make this jacket ‘plausible’, aiming for solid and timeless, as the pieces that usually inspire us. After research and some hours on the drawing table, the MFxBR “Pensacola Seaplane Jacket” started shaping up:
The “Naval Air Station Pensacola” in Florida (NAS Pensacola) has been the cradle of Naval Aviation since WW1, where all involved personnel got to train (aviators, Navy flyers, Marines, ground crew, Officers, Seabees…). Read its rich history here.
Well, we had our name… now we just needed a jacket.
For the design, we imagined that a special test/prototype jacket had been developed by the Naval Air Factory (NAF), to be worn on Base and for training only. It combined vintage elements of Navy and Air Force issued jackets, and was adopted by crews of specific Joint Operations (involving Seaplanes, flyers and sea crews…)
We came up with a type of early Military flight jacket that could have existed. We blended decades of pre WW2 flight apparel History, freely borrowing from iconic mil-specs jackets and willingly mixing eras. Our inspiration came from:
* late 1920’s type A-1 leather jackets
* Late 1930’s “Jacket, flying, Intermediate, Jungle cloth” (OD jungle cloth/zipper/A-1 style knit collar)
* M-422 leather Jacket that replaced the jungle cloth in 1938 ( later to morph into Type G-1 jackets)…
* Our speculative imagination, vintage archives, NOS trims vault, and the usual added grain of salt.
Why navy and white? Well we figured these were not unpopular colors in the USN and USAAF, and this being an amphibious Op type garment it made sense. The corduroy lining is a nod to the hand-warmer pockets of early Peacoats, same specs and shade. The single layer waist band wool knit is that of Type M-422 Jackets, cuffs those of A-2 Jackets, but in natural color.
To spice it up we dug out an old stock of military ‘ring’ removable buttons. We were lucky to get our hands on some rare NOS composite white buttons, with an engraved anchor, in their original Gov’t issued packaging.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and expertly crafted in Japan by Buzz Rickson’s of Toyo Enterprises in a one-time limited edition.
In the US and EU, the MFxBR Pensacola Jacket is only available from Mister Freedom®.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFxBR pattern, inspired by vintage American mil-specs flight apparel.
FABRIC:
Body: 14 oz. all cotton “jungle cloth”, originally developed for the US Navy for its sturdiness/softness/strength/protection qualities while at sea under harsh conditions. Famous for its application in the USN Type N-1 deck jackets. Milled in Japan to exact period mil-specs.
Lining: Cotton mid wade corduroy.
DETAILS:
* Slim silhouette, one piece back.
* Mil-specs wool knit cuffs, waist band and collar band.
* Cotton corduroy full lining.
* Navy CPO shirt type anchor buttons collar fastening.
* A-1 type front flap patch pockets, with corduroy lining.
* Metal snap waist band closure.
* Detachable white composite anchor ring buttons for front closure, vintage military New Old Stock.
* Underarm venting metal eyelets.
* Original Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s double labeling and ‘contract’ tag, a nod to early USAAF ‘modified’ flying gear.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
WASH/SIZING:
The ‘Pensacola’ runs true to size. I am usual a medium/38 in MFSC coats and jackets, and wear a size 38 in this jacket.
We recommend professional eco-friendly dry cleaning when needed. Remove the ring buttons before cleaning (they unhook from the metal ring of the button by rotating the fastener from the under side). Store them and don’t lose them!
The jacket is also hand washable, in cold water, if really needed. Hang dry only.
The 100% cotton jungle cloth is sanforized and some minimal shrinkage and ‘torquing’ will occur if washed.
Please refer to sizing chart below for raw/rinsed measurements (‘rinsed’ = soaked in cold water for 30mn, spin dry and hang dry). Original rinsing is optional and for reference only.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 36 (small), 38 (medium), 40 (large), 42 (Xlarge), 44 (XXlarge)
Retail $699.95
Please call 323-653-2014 or Email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. Available from Mister Freedom® HQ in Los Angeles, and from our online store.
Thank you all 😉
(Note: The painted jacket in the photo was just a custom prototype we did for BUZZ RICKSON’S 20th Anniversary party. Production comes WITHOUT any graphics, of course)
BUILDING UP SELF-CONFIDENCE IN PEOPLE
When not particularly blessed with self confidence in young adult life, one needs to rely on a few good souls to build it back.
The few who will early on understand your hesitating and approximate work, encourage and support you, refrain from You-know-what-you-should-do you and rather let you be yourself, are the reason why you’ll keep going and do your thing.
They will make you thrive to do better, acknowledge your efforts, validate the long hours, justify and respect your choice of an often less travelled road.
An honest pat on the back on that road, at the right time, goes a long, long way.
The fine bunch below, from close friends to business acquaintances, is a non-exhaustive list.
But this appreciative small potato wanted to express it’s gratitude, late and in no particular order, to a few who come to mind today.
To early self-confidence builders who inspire one to keep doing it his way, I dedicate this post.
Kenny Thomas
 
In my early days of rag collecting solo, Kenny was a Designer at Ralph Lauren… In the mid 90’s, he purchased some Japanese indigo boro from my garage, rags that I had randomly picked up in Japan. These 100 year old patched-up textiles were used as back-drops for RL collections rigs at the time… Boro fabric has been pretty much featured on every single fashion blog and magazine by now.
Kenny now is the Creative Director behind Grayers Menswear collections, a skilled photographer, proud Father of Tate and the lesser half of photographer Leeta Harding.
AND my irrelevant comedy routine partner on Instagram 😉
Todd Snyder
As head of design at J.Crew in the mid 90’s, Todd and his design team (Frank Muytens was there) regularly visited my non-glamorous warehouse in Sun Valley, CA., to pick up inspirational pieces from the ol’ pile of rags. Graphics, fleece, plaids etc…
Todd has since then launched his successful Todd Snyder label. Frank is now head of Men’s Design at J.Crew.
Toyo Enterprises
When randomly approached by Tom Tanaka and team at the Mister Freedom® store back in 2006, I was asked to design a pair of jeans, carte blanche… Little did they know that I had NO idea where to start. Made a pair from scratch, a few days before due date. The “Utility Trousers, MFSC 7161” were born and were the foundation of our on-going MFSC collaborations that keep me clothed every day. Solid folks, all of them.
Kiya Babzani
 
Kiya and his imported Japanese denim mecca Self Edge was the first US retailer to pick up the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane line for his store in San Francisco, sometime in 2008.
He now has expanded with several boutiques across America, having earned much respect within the Denimhead World through hard work and expertise.
Furthermore, I am indebted to all independent boutiques and their hard working owners & staff currently carrying Mister Freedom®.
Katsu & Leo Yoshida
 
The design legend and visionary guru behind Japanese ‘Yoshida Kanban’ (‘Porter Bags’) stumbled across an early version of Mister Freedom® store in Los Angeles (Martel Avenue location) sometime in 2004. He quietly picked up vintage items no one was looking for yet, giving me confidence that the early AM hunting wake-up calls were worth it…
Along with his son Leo Yoshida, Katsu launched his own boutique offering his brands in Ginza, Porter Classics. His luggage label ‘Kichizo’ is proudly carrying on the rich Family heritage of bag making.
Katsu and Leo’s new “Quartier Général” restaurant in Ginza, opening sometime in 2013, will surely become my new HQ when in Tokyo…
Cheers Mousquetaires 😉
Sir Paul Smith
A group of dapper folks set foot into Mister Freedom® store, sometime in 2007… I ended up discussing old rags with a certain Gentleman after he was done shopping.
Quickly realizing that he was more than well versed in vintage textiles and styles, I said : “You must be in design, or something…?”
He replied, humbly: “Yes, a little bit… Kind of keeps me off the streets that.”
We shook hand, he said his name was Paul. Paul Smith.
Subsequently, Paul Smith® was the first European retailer to pick up a season of MFSC clothes (Naval Clothing Tailor, 2008) for one of their boutique in London, as a kind acknowledgment of what I was trying to do with my own thread inclination…
Steve Garbarino
Mr. Garbarino, then Chief Editor of “BlackBook Magazine”, sent photographer Sye Williams to the store in 2006. He then ran the first paper media article on Mister Freedom® to appear in a US Publication.
I choose to not use PR and keep the advertising budget close to zero, and considering no one had heard of the brand, that was a very nice plug. I talked about wanting to see more three-piece suits in the streets in that article, at a time when streets were plagued by Ed Hardy rhinestones…
Steve has a busy career and is now a contributing editor for ‘The Wall Street Journal’.
Michael Williams
The trend forecaster globe trotter and his website needs no introduction. After a visit, Michael ran a bit about Mister Freedom® on his popular “A Continuous Lean” website back in 2008. The first major ‘blog’ to highlight what was going on at 7161 Beverly Boulevard.
Doug Bihlmaier and Bob Melet
 
As the ‘A’ Team behind all the vintage buying for Ralph Lauren in the 1990’s, these two then partners-in-crime have been responsible for giving me the energy to carry on digging deeper and deeper for hidden treasures…
Doug, the Legend, is still handling all vintage buys at Ralph Lauren. (BL, you’ll appreciate I blurred your face)
Bob owns a design inspirational business of International fame based in New York called “Melet Mercantile” (84 Wooster St., #205, NY, NY 10012, by appointments only.)
Tina Wakino
 
From bearing with my 7 days/week schedule and my moods, to sanding the floors of the freshly rebuild store mezzanine in 2006… and everything in between and after, Tina has seen it all happen. She can testify of the blood sweat and tears as an insider and a compañera. She has also inspired me to try to become a better person… the hardest task of them all.
For the past 15 years, Tina has been independently operating her own successful and respected business, her boutique “Bazar” (1108c Abbot Kinney in Venice, CA. 90291.)
Merci Cosette 😉
Additionally, warm thank you to all past and present supporters of Mister Freedom®.
We wouldn’t be here today if you hadn’t been there yesterday.
Christophe Loiron,
Laborer at Mister Freedom®
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