Mister Freedom® “NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” (NCT) CHINOS, 12Oz “301 Okinawa” SC denim. FW2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” catalog. Made in JAPAN.
This pattern was part of the original line-up of the small grouping that somewhat managed to put us on the fashion map sometime in 2008, i.e. the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” (NCT) capsule collection.
For the nostalgics, we still unearth remnants from our ship’s stowage occasionally, a misplaced stack here, mislabeled box there, and we update inventory with New Old Stock (NOS).
A reissue of the original chino twill model was released for our 2016 mfsc ten-year anniversary, and we have issued several iterations of that pattern through the years.
Our NCT Chinos are inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, a pattern plausibly revisited by a Naval Base tailor at some point, featuring a mix of period Mil-Specs and fancy civvy custom tailoring. The cut is fairly representative of our early days, featuring a slimmer leg and lower rise than military originals. We were at the time morphing the high-waisted and baggy cuts of 1930s-40s utilitarian designs with European tailored silhouettes. Most of our bottoms today feature a higher rise than our NCT Chinos.
For Fall 2020, we are introducing a denim model of the NCT Chinos pattern, cut from an old mfsc favorite, a 12Oz. “301 Okinawa” selvedge denim exclusively developed and trademarked by Sugar Cane Co in Japan. That special Left Hand Twill (LHT) denim has been milled in several fabric weights by SC through the years, but consistently consists of a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. The sugar cane fibers, a by-product of the sugar cane industry, are responsible for the slubby and “hairy” quality of the twill, and, full disclaimer, we have heard stories about customers plucking out prickly fibers in the weave with tweezers!
One of the more desirable characteristics of this premium denim is the combination of both a dark indigo warp and rapid fading ability. MF® OG denimheads will attest to the rewarding patina potential of the Okinawa denim family.
The pocket bags are cut from an old mfsc classic fabric, a fancy striped ticking twill inspired by antique French textiles. For a subdued demeanor, we kept the stitching tonal and opted for black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons for the fly and waistband. The decorative arcuate stitch on the slash and welt pocket openings is a detail borrowed from early European tailoring. The leg construction uses flat-felled seams and the Okinawa selvedge is displayed in each pocket facing.
The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos “Okinawa” denim edition, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co in Japan.
FABRIC: “Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.
SPECS: * Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers, custom-made military garments and early European tailoring.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Designed in USA.
* Made in JAPAN.
SIZING/FIT: The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos in “Okinawa” denim come RAW/unwashed. The garment is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. The denim will shrink to tagged size after an initial cold soak. We recommend this usual protocol before wear:
Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
Washing machine spin dry.
Line dry. (No heat dryer)
I opted for a W32 for a comfortable fit. I hemmed my pair to my preferred length with a traditional 1¾ fold. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
CARE: Wash when necessary, using appropriate methods pertaining to premium denim.
We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, as the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.
Mister Freedom® CPO Shirt & Naval Chinos, limited “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition. Surplus collection mfsc Fall 2018. Made in Japan.
What we have here is our elusive 2009 blue shirt pattern, familiar to the MF® OGs, and its Naval Clothing Tailor khaki-legged friend, both given the GB denim treatment.
After an epic 2016 apparition in a smashing OMG-so-stiff-it-makes-my-body-ache 11.7 Oz. indigo canvas fabric, the ol’ MF® blue CPO and Chinos are indeed turning green this Fall.
Mustering-up our best one-trick-pony skills and cow-milking mastery, this 2018 iteration features an old mfsc flame, the olive green 10 Oz. selvedge denim twill inspired by 1940’s-50’s British military utility fabric. This green denim was initially introduced in 2016 via the Garrison shirt and twill pants combo, during our exciting and controversial 2015 Saigon Cowboy season and its fierce keyboard snipers.
The traditional “Liberty” treatment to US Navy dress blues and other garments is by now familiar to all heritage clothing aficionados. We have often respectfully ‘played’ with that concept of custom concealed style extravaganza.
See gallery below for a brief visual recap.
Old photo of the original “blue shirt” (2008)
MF® CPO shirt 189ac (2016)
MF® Naval Chinos type No.266ac (2016)
Well worn Garrison shirt (2016) and raw CPO, cut from the same GB denim.
This season, we decided to give a 1966 “The Sand Pebbles” classic movie twist to our fictional CPO and Chinos combo. For those interested in the historical background of Opium Wars, or intrigued by the sound of “… when U.S. warships patrolled China’s rivers…”, a condensed summary of the period can be found here.
So as to not get lost down the usual rabbit hole, we will leave authentic 1920’s stories of the U.S. Asiatic Fleet to military buffs, and refer you to Hollywood’s light version of things, for an excitement-filled evening with Jake Holman and the USS San Pablo patrolling the Yangtze in 1926.
You savvy?
The MF® CPO shirt and Naval Chinos “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co and the expert Toyo Enterprise team.
SPECS: FABRIC: “GB denim twill”: An olive green warp and natural weft 100% cotton twill, 10 Oz., orange color selvedge ID. Inspired by the fabric of 1940’s-50’s British military utility overalls and blouses. Milled in Japan.
MF® CPO shirt “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition: DETAILS: * Original mfsc shirt pattern initially released in 2008, freely inspired by period USN uniforms, 1930’s – 1940’s military shirting, naval custom tailoring and vintage “Chief Petty Officer” type shirts. * Limited 2018 “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition, featuring vintage-style ’Liberty cuffs’, inspired by traditional local tailor artwork and custom embroidery, popular amongst U.S. Asiatic Fleet sailors. * Concealed mfsc dragon embroidered patches on cuffs, 100% rayon. * Concealed rainbow-colored chainstitch on the inside, a common feature of Asia-made traditional embroidered souvenir-type garments (robes, tunics, “party” jackets, etc…) * Concealed chest passport/iPhone® pocket. * Original MF® inverted box-pleat arcuate single chest pocket design. * Chin strap. * Selvedge side gussets. * Vintage style button front placket, anodized black snap closure. * Waist closure and chin strap USN plastic anchor button. * Reinforcement shoulder yoke, vintage uniform style. * Arcuate back yoke. * OD popeline facing. * Curvy front and back shirt tails. * Tonal 100% cotton stitching. * Designed in USA, manufactured in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The “San PABLO” CPO Shirt in GB denim comes raw/unwashed/loomstate. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments: * 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub. * Spin dry cycle (if using a machine). * Hang dry. * As an optional step, wear the garment briefly while still damp, in order to shape it to your body and set your own creases. Hang and let fully dry (try to shape the gshirt on the hanger to look as if you are still wearing it.)
Following this routine, the garment will be quite stiff when dry, due to the re-activated starch contained in the denim fibers. This is perfectly normal and expected for fabrics not processed with unnecessary softeners at the milling stage. This temporary stiffness will rapidly subside with normal wear. The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I am a Medium in most mfsc shirting and opted for a Medium in the “SAN PABLO” CPO shirt. No need to size up or down from your usual mfsc shirting size. The military-inspired and uniform-style cut emphasizes a broad shoulders and slim waist silhouette. Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above soaking method.
CARE: Wash your shirt when necessary. We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the olive green denim warp side. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim shirt. Just enjoy the journey, and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully, without unnecessary prior factory-distressing process.
Available RAW/unwashed. SIZES: Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large
MF® Naval Chinos “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition: DETAILS: * Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Limited 2018 “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition, featuring a vintage-style ’Liberty’ patch, inspired by traditional local tailor artwork and custom embroidery, popular amongst U.S. Asiatic Fleet sailors.
* Concealed embroidered mfsc dragon 100% rayon patch on bottom leg, over-riding an un-marked military-style ID patch. * Concealed rainbow-colored chainstitch on the inside, a common feature of Asia-made traditional embroidered souvenir-type garments (robes, tunics, “party” jackets, etc…) * Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing. * Button fly, featuring brown corozo wood buttons. * Thin trousers-style belt-loops. * Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing. * Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID. * Flat-felled leg seams. * Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching. * Woven mfsc “Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband. * Made in Japan, designed in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The “SAN PABLO” Naval Chinos in GD denim come raw/unwashed/loomstate. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments: * 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub. * Spin dry cycle (if using a machine). * Hang dry.
Following this routine, the garment will be quite stiff when dry, due to the re-activated starch contained in the denim fibers. This is perfectly normal and expected for fabrics not processed with unnecessary softeners at the milling stage. This temporary stiffness will rapidly subside with normal wear. The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. These are true-to-size, and I wear a comfortable Waist 32, my usual size in mfsc trousers. Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above soaking method.
CARE: Wash your pants when necessary. We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the olive green denim warp side. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim shirt. Just enjoy the journey, and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully, without unnecessary prior factory-distressing process.
Available RAW/unwashed. Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Mister Freedom® mfsc Naval Chinos, Type No.266ic, cotton/linen indigo chambray issue. Spring 2018 mfsc “SURPLUS” catalog. Made in Japan
Our popular “mfsc Naval Chinos” are back this Spring!
These classic trousers are a nod to the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” capsule collection of 2008, dating back to the earliest collaboration with our Japanese friends from Sugar Cane Co. With a pattern inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, we initially issued them in a combination of subtly contrasting mil-specs khaki chino twills under the “Naval Chinos Type No.266” moniker. An edited version called Type II was released in 2010. For our smashing 2016 Ten Year Anniversary, two new models were cut, one in a dark indigo canvas and the other in a khaki chino twill, both under “Naval Chinos Type No.266ac”.
We are releasing a very distinct version for Spring 2018, and are excited to introduce a luxurious vintage-inspired fabric new to our catalog. This fine indigo selvedge chambray, a slubby tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen, was exclusively milled for mfsc in Japan. Quite reminiscent of the 1950’s French Marine Nationale utility uniform fabric that had inspired our Sea Hunt Spring 2014 Crew Pants (see original blog post here), this 2018 textile features a darker and more of a reddish indigo hue, a denser weave, and a selvedge with white/red stripe ID. The leg construction is a flat-felled seam type, same as vintage army chinos, so we played with the fabric selvedge by displaying it in the facing of the five pockets (front slash, rear welt and watch pocket.)
Our mfsc Naval Chinos feature a vintage silhouette, mid rise, with somewhat of a classic leg, neither slim nor baggy. The light-weight crisp chambray fabric makes them a stylish addition to one’s summer wardrobe, easy to pair with solid Skivvies,stripeys, Saint-Malo, …, or plain button down shirts. The indigo chambray will age gracefully with repeat wear/wash cycles, and we look forward seeing some outstanding worn specimen down the line!
The MF® “Type No.266ac” mfsc Naval Chinos, cotton/linen indigo chambray, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC: A fine, tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen indigo chambray, slubby texture, white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled Japan. Pocket bags and waist band are made from 100% cotton woven stripe ticking, milled in Japan.
DETAILS: * Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers. * Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing. * Button fly, featuring brown corozo wood buttons. * Thin trousers-style belt-loops. * Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing. * Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID. * Flat-felled leg seams. * Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband. * Made in Japan, designed in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The Type 266ic Naval Chinos, indigo chambray, come raw/unwashed, and will shrink to tagged size after an initial soak. We recommend a 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, spin dry, hang dry. These are true-to-size, and I wear a comfortable Waist 32, my usual size in mfsc trousers. Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above method.
CARE: Wash when needed. We recommend washing on delicate cycle/cold water/eco-friendly detergent. Turning the trousers inside out will help avoid marbling. Line dry.
Available RAW (unwashed) Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38. Retail: $349.95 Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World. Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above. Thank you for your support.
Mister Freedom® Naval Chinos, Type No.266ac, mil-specs Khaki Chino Twill issue. Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection Made in Japan
A nod to our early collaborating days with Sugar Cane Co, specifically the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” capsule collection of 2008, we are issuing a version of our original “Naval Chinos” this Fall. With a pattern inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, this Ten Year Anniversary edition comes in two very distinct options, the recently-released indigo canvas version, and a version similar to the original issue, a long-awaited new khaki chino twill model. Please note that these are military-inspired chinos, a totally different pattern from our casual Sportsman chinos and dressier Continental trousers.
As we did with our 2008 original issue, we are mixing two types of cotton military chino twills, produced by our friends at Buzz Rickson’s, US Army, US Army Air Force, US Air Force, and US Navy vintage mil-specs replica experts. Both twills feature the same 8.2 Oz. weight, but contrast noticeably in color. Our original design approach in mixing them was to emanate wartime production crunch, when two different dye lots were at times cut and sewn into one production run. Vintage clothing aficionados will be familiar with such specimen, quite rare today. Our ‘Naval Chinos’ also stand out from the contrasting navy blue stitching. With repeat wash/wear, these color contrasts will gradually fade into an attractive, unique and subtlety-nuanced blend.
One might consider our tricked-out colorful chinos ‘too weird’ to wear, but, if you’re reading this, chances are you are already dressed weird, according to the guy sitting next to you on the plane.
?✌?
The MF® “Type MFSC No.266ac” Naval Chinos, Khaki Chino Twill issue, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC: Original mix of two dye-lot shades of period mil-specs khaki chino twills, 100% cotton, 8.2 Oz., milled in Japan for Buzz Rickson’s. The initial fabric sheen is due to the specific milling and finishing process, and will rapidly subside with normal wash/wear cycles. Pocket bags and waist band are made from 100% cotton woven stripe ticking, milled in Japan.
SPECS: * Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly. * Waist closure and fly: brown corrozo wood buttons.
* Front slash pockets and back welt pockets featuring arcuate decorative stitching.
* Watch pocket.
* Double MF® woven labeling on inside waist band.
* Concealed cloth label for custom markings on lower leg, French Navy style.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Navy blue contrast 100% cotton stitching.
* Made in Japan, designed in USA, worn around the World.
SIZING/FIT: The Type MFSC 266ac Naval Chinos in khaki twill come raw/unwashed/loomstate, and the fabric is pretty much sanforized. We recommend an initial 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, then spin dry cycle. Hang dry.
The tagged size roughly corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I wear a comfortable Waist 32 in these chinos. No need to size up or down from your actual measured waist size. Please note that, due to the use of 100% cotton stitching and 100% cotton pocketing, slight shrinkage, seam roping and torquing might be obtained with the use of hot water and normal washing machine wash cycle. The true intended fit and pattern of these trousers has been adjusted according to a cold water rinse and low-heat tumble dry process.
Our khaki Naval Chinos feature a vintage silhouette, mid rise, with somewhat of a classic leg, neither slim nor baggy. Refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements.
CHART
CARE: These trousers should be low maintenance. We recommend a normal wash cycle with cold or warm water and eco-friendly detergent. Turning the trousers inside out will help avoid marbling. Line dry.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
