 Mister Freedom® “Bubblehead” CPO Shirt with VEB Leather card case ©2024 
 “Please don’t do that…” The Joe Greene ©2024 Mister Freedom® BUBBLEHEAD CPO Shirt, 10.5 Oz. Selvedge Left-Hand-Twill “Okinawa” Fiber Denim.
FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (JP)
The “blue shirt” is back!
We introduced this original pattern sometime in 2008, part of our “Naval Clothing Tailor” story.
The design was inspired by a vintage 1930s tailor-made US Navy Chief Petty Officer private purchase uniform shirt. We have released a few models through the years, from the initial 6 Oz. denim version and its elusive “Liberty Issue” follow-up… to the 2018 “SAN PABLO” CPO Shirt.
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The original “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” collection ©2008
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The first “MFSC Type 189” pattern ©2008
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Old photo of the original “blue shirt” ©2008
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MF® “Midnight” CPO Shirt, 189mn ©2010
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MF® “Off Duty” CPO Shirt, 189od ©2010
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MF® indigo canvas CPO shirt 189ac ©2016
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MF® “San Pablo” CPO ©2018
It made no doubt that our 2024 Submariner venture called for a new twist on the pattern!
The overall design remains the same, with the exception of the front closure. The “Bubblehead” model features classic USN-type fouled anchor black buttons — typical of vintage USN wool CPO shirts — rather than the snaps of previous iterations.
The fabric is an old favorite: 10.5 Oz. Okinawa fiber denim, left-hand twill, fancy blend of 70% cotton x 30% Okinawan recycled sugarcane fibers, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan. It is stiff, slubby, neppy, and notorious for developing stunning patina over time, with normal wear/wash routine.
The design treatment is subtle, tonal stitching, and without the “Liberty Issue” fanciness of some of its predecessors. No concealed mermaids, no rainbow stitching, just a solid and intricately-constructed vintage-style work shirt.
The endearing term “Bubblehead” is military slang for a US Navy Submariner.
The Mister Freedom® “BUBBLEHEAD” CPO Shirt is designed in California, USA, and produced in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co in Japan.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MF® design from 2008, initially inspired by a vintage 1930s tailor-made USN Chief Petty Officer uniform shirt.
FABRIC: 10.5 Oz. Okinawa fiber denim, left-hand twill, fancy blend of 70% cotton x 30% Okinawan recycled sugarcane fibers, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Intricate tailoring, 1930s-40s period tailor-made uniform shirting style.
* Original MF® inverted box-pleat arcuate single chest pocket design.
* Reinforcement shoulder yoke.
* Arcuate “western” back yoke.
* Curvy 1930s style front and back shirt tails.
* Chin strap.
* Black cotton twill collar/button placket facing.
* Fancy scalloped cuff pattern, with elbow reinforcement patch.
* Classic USN fouled anchor black plastic buttons.
* Off-set front tail button.
* Concealed chest pocket, featuring denim selvedge.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton.
* “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” woven rayon neck label.
* Designed in California, made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® BUBBLEHEAD CPO Shirt comes RAW/unwashed. The pattern is designed so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak in a tub for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Note: The resulting stiffness of the shirt after it has fully dried is due to the starch present in the denim yarns. The rigidity will subside with wear.
At 5.7’ ~145 lbs, I opted for a comfortable MEDIUM, with enough room to allow layering over a Medalist Sweatshirt. For ref, I am currently a SMALL in most MF® shirts/jackets.
The tagged size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your clothes to fit.
Please refer to our sizing chart and reach out to sales@misterfreedom.com for further sizing advice.
CARE:
When laundering is needed after repeat wear, turn shirt inside/out to prevent marbling of the fabric, machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Hot water and heat dryer are also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024
 The Grandfather! Original 2008 Mister Freedom® “Naval Clothing Tailor” No6284 Peacoat, “301 Okinawa” denim.
©2008 (For illustration ONLY)  Mister Freedom® Denim PEACOAT… it’s BACK! ©2023 
 “How do I get me one of ’em peacoatshh, Pops?” The Joe Greene ©2023 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT, “301 Okinawa” fiber denim edition.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School”
Made in Japan.
Our initial take on classic US Navy 10-button peacoats was the “Naval Clothing Tailor” denim Peacoat (aka mfsc 6284 Coat, Deck, Utility), released back in the sunny Spring of 2008.
The original pattern was adapted from a vintage US Coast Guard (USCG) 1920s melton wool peacoat from our archives. That first issue featured a sugarcane fiber denim shell (14 ½ Oz. “SC301 Okinawa” denim), paired with an indigo/white striped cotton ticking lining. Mine, pictured above, sadly got stollen from a display years ago.
Using the same classic pattern, we thought of going MF® OG this season, back to the early days of “Heritage Fashion”… So, please welcome the anticipated latest addition to our naval-inspired jacket family, the Grandson of our 2008 Grandpa, the FW2023 MF® “Okinawa” Denim Peacoat!
True to its ancestor, the shell fabric of the 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT is made of Sugar Cane Co’s proprietary “SC301 Okinawa” denim, a dark indigo selvedge denim blend of 50/50 recycled sugarcane fibers and cotton fibers (the ratio has evolved through seasons of production, according to raw material availability), a neppy and dry 14 Oz. thing of beauty with rewarding fading potential.
For the body lining, matching our recent Barnstormer SPECS, we opted for an all-cotton golden brown mid-wale corduroy — a reference to the hand warmer pocket bags on vintage 30s-50s USN peacoats, before the Quartermaster decided on the cheaper pocketing fabric option of an unbleached-white cotton twill.
The sleeve lining is cut from Mil-Specs OG-107 cotton-back sateen material, also an expensive and fancy fabric milled in Japan, just because we like to keep the bling on the inside sometimes.
The choice of black leather accents for pocket welt/stops is borrowed from vintage civilian 1930s “Duck Hunting Coats” out of the Montgomery Ward, Sears Roebuck or LL Bean catalogs. More on that background here. With natural wear and a few nautical miles on this NCT Peacoat, the patina and attractive color/texture contrast between the indigo denim and the black horsehide trims should get interesting on Fridays.
The “modified” double labeling — recurring branding for our msfc “Survival School” collection — is a reference to period US military experimental clothing, and a respectful nod to the little-known Quartermaster Research Facility (aka Natick Army Labs), a US Department of Defense organization located in Natick, Massachusetts. The “CLOTHING & TEXTILE RESEARCH UNIT” has been tasked with designing and developing anything from new uniforms/gear/fabrics/camo patterns/etc for the US military since 1952.
The MF® 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT in “SC301 Okinawa” fiber denim is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, and made in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by 1910s-30s early US Navy/US Coast Guard wool peacoats.
FABRIC:
Shell: Sugar Cane Co’s proprietary “SC301 Okinawa” denim, 14 Oz. dark indigo selvedge denim blend of 50/50 recycled sugarcane fibers and cotton, neppy, dry and prickly, white with green line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Body lining: Soft 100% cotton mid-wale corduroy, golden brown shade, milled in Japan.
Sleeve lining: 100% cotton OG-107 sateen, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Classic 1910s~1930s US Navy & US Coast Guards melton wool peacoat pattern and construction.
* Ten-button front closure.
* Early USN type ’13 stars’ fouled anchor design buttons.
* Four outside pockets: two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure hip pockets, all lined with golden brown corduroy.
* Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (resized to fit an average smartphone, so that you keep it tucked while you drive.)
* Leather arrowhead pocket stops/pocket welt reinforcements, black tea-core horsehide.
* Detachable chin strap (displaying either fabric if left dangling, or concealed if buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional zig-zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* “Modified” double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven/printed labels.
* Cotton-wrap poly thread tonal stitching.
* Mister Freedom® woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” label topped with “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” collection-specific printed label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT ships raw/unwashed, and will shrink to intended/tagged size after the following initial process:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets/coats. Do not size down as the arm hole opening may become an issue. The FW2023 “Okinawa” Denim Peacoat feels a bit tighter in the chest than its Barnstormer companion.
I’m ~5’7 – 140 lbs and went for a 38 in this “301 Okinawa” denim peacoat model, even though I tend to navigate between 36 (Small) and 38 (Medium) lately.
Please check out our measurement chart and compare with a similar garment you own that fits you well. To dial in your size, also consider your layering preferences.
MF® crew sizing recs:
CL (5’7 ~ 140 lbs): I opted for a 38 (MEDIUM), trim fit with tight arm holes.
John (6’ ~ 170 lbs): 40 (LARGE)
Ivan (5’9 ~ 160 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)
Enoch (6’ ~ 153 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)
CARE:
DO NOT MACHINE WASH.
This garment is too heavy and voluminous for a regular home washer, even one boasting “Heavy Duty” settings. A machine wash cycle will either ruin the jacket, the machine, or both.
Hand wash highly recommended: Fill a tub with cold water, add a minimal dose of eco-friendly detergent, immerge the garment fully, let soak for about 30mn, and delicately rub. Rinse, hang to dry.
Spot cleaning with a wet rag will usually work for minor stains.
Professional eco-friendly dry-cleaning is also an option, but may alter the indigo color.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023
Mister Freedom® SCUBA Utilities, “Okinawa 301” left-hand twill denim
mfsc SS2022 FROGSVILLE
Made in Japan
These came about as we were considering turning the Scuba Trunks pattern – inspired by old school UDT combat swimmer shorts – into a pair of pants. The mission? Coming up with a pair of dungarees not related to the ubiquitous 5-pocket jeans, that could have existed.
“Wanna turn shorts into pants?”, I quipped, “Here it is, Barney-style, just add legs!”
The Mister Freedom® Design Dept kindly remarked that morphing our swim trunks into a pair of practical work pants may take a few more cups of brain juice.
First, we needed front pockets for functionality, so we borrowed the patch pocket design (sandwiched in the outseam) of our Utility Trousers from 2015.
For the back of the pants, the single square pocket of the trunks felt too plain, so we tapped our Swabbies for a more visually-pleasing rear pocketing design. We also needed two pockets, to balance with the absence of back yoke, also a feature of our classic Speedways, anecdotally. The four pockets are cut using horizontal warp, in contrast with the traditional vertical warp used for the legs, which always makes for interesting fabric roping and patina.
We of course kept the no-belt loops style waist band and D-ring cinch strap, pure vintage UDT shorts legacy.
There it is. A modern day wearable blending vintage military aesthetics and utilitarian clothing functionality, as featured in the “Chairborne Commando” star-studded Hollywood blockbuster.
Our Scuba Trunks may have challenged some in the Heritage Fashion community regarding “how short can you go?”, and, incidentally puzzled a few beach goers in my coastal neighborhood for a couple of years now, but its long-legged successor, the Scuba Utes, shouldn’t raise too many eyebrows in public. At least initially. Just wait for the “sick fades” on that sweet “Okinawa 301” indigo left-hand twill denim, and watch the crowds part and jaws drop!
The MF® Scuba Utilities are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
Fancy “Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo premium denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID, a Sugar Cane Co proprietary fabric. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 80% cotton and 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers.
SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage military swimmers trunks and UDT shorts, US Navy dungarees, Army field trousers and other utilitarian classic garments.
* Old school high rise, classic straight leg cut.
* Adjustable waist strap with Mil-Specs double D-ring buckle, ½ inch ~ 1 inch cinch.
* Waistband facing displaying denim selvedge ID.
* No belt loops.
* Front patch pocket original pattern, sandwiched in flat-felled outseam.
* Double rear pockets, concealed selvedge ID on inside fold.
* All four pockets cut using horizontal warp, in contrast with vertical warp of legs.
* Button fly, black painted metal “donut” wreath tack buttons.
* Chainstitch seam construction.
* Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Original mfsc Frogsville woven rayon label.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® SCUBA Utilities are true-to-size after a cold rinse/machine spin dry/line dry.
We recommend the following simple initial process.
- Cold soak garment for about 30 mn in bathtub or washing machine, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry (spinning cycle) if using a washing machine.
- Line dry/drip dry.
The resulting stiffness of the garment is due to the reactivated starch in the denim fabric, and is normal. Stiffness will easily subside with normal wear, fabric will soften.
The D-ring waist strap allows for about ½ inch to one inch cinch. I opted for a W31 in the Scuba Utilities, fully cinched, for a comfortable fit (I wear a W32 in all models of Scuba Trunks.) I’m about 5’7 / 145-150 lbs.
CARE:
Wash when necessary, as other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the pants inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2022
Mister Freedom® “NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” (NCT) CHINOS, 12Oz “301 Okinawa” SC denim.
FW2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” catalog.
Made in JAPAN.
This pattern was part of the original line-up of the small grouping that somewhat managed to put us on the fashion map sometime in 2008, i.e. the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” (NCT) capsule collection.
For the nostalgics, we still unearth remnants from our ship’s stowage occasionally, a misplaced stack here, mislabeled box there, and we update inventory with New Old Stock (NOS).
A reissue of the original chino twill model was released for our 2016 mfsc ten-year anniversary, and we have issued several iterations of that pattern through the years.
Our NCT Chinos are inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, a pattern plausibly revisited by a Naval Base tailor at some point, featuring a mix of period Mil-Specs and fancy civvy custom tailoring. The cut is fairly representative of our early days, featuring a slimmer leg and lower rise than military originals. We were at the time morphing the high-waisted and baggy cuts of 1930s-40s utilitarian designs with European tailored silhouettes. Most of our bottoms today feature a higher rise than our NCT Chinos.
For Fall 2020, we are introducing a denim model of the NCT Chinos pattern, cut from an old mfsc favorite, a 12Oz. “301 Okinawa” selvedge denim exclusively developed and trademarked by Sugar Cane Co in Japan. That special Left Hand Twill (LHT) denim has been milled in several fabric weights by SC through the years, but consistently consists of a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. The sugar cane fibers, a by-product of the sugar cane industry, are responsible for the slubby and “hairy” quality of the twill, and, full disclaimer, we have heard stories about customers plucking out prickly fibers in the weave with tweezers!
One of the more desirable characteristics of this premium denim is the combination of both a dark indigo warp and rapid fading ability. MF® OG denimheads will attest to the rewarding patina potential of the Okinawa denim family.
The pocket bags are cut from an old mfsc classic fabric, a fancy striped ticking twill inspired by antique French textiles. For a subdued demeanor, we kept the stitching tonal and opted for black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons for the fly and waistband.
The decorative arcuate stitch on the slash and welt pocket openings is a detail borrowed from early European tailoring. The leg construction uses flat-felled seams and the Okinawa selvedge is displayed in each pocket facing.
The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos “Okinawa” denim edition, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co in Japan.
FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers, custom-made military garments and early European tailoring.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Designed in USA.
* Made in JAPAN.
SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos in “Okinawa” denim come RAW/unwashed. The garment is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. The denim will shrink to tagged size after an initial cold soak.
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
- Washing machine spin dry.
- Line dry. (No heat dryer)
I opted for a W32 for a comfortable fit. I hemmed my pair to my preferred length with a traditional 1¾ fold. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
CARE:
Wash when necessary, using appropriate methods pertaining to premium denim.
We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, as the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
 
Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian LOT.64 BB “OKINAWA” edition.
Sportsman catalog, mfsc SS2019 RESTOCK.
Made in USA.
These two numbers were initially released during FW2017.
All sizes of the popular Mister Freedom® “OKINAWA” Californian Lot64BB and Ranch Blouse are back in stock for SS2019.
Fabric and specs are exactly the same as the original release.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
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