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Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2023 LookBook Preview, PART 1: “Survival School” & Cali-Jan

A) Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2023 “SURVIVAL SCHOOL”

* Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s MA-1 “BAILOUT” Flyer’s Jacket *

* Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MF-41 UTILITY Jacket & MECHANIC Trousers, OG-107 Sateen *

* Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SNIPES Shirt, HBT, Army Green Shade 44 *

* Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane BARNSTORMER Jacket, Khaki Jungle Cloth *

* Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane PEACOAT, 14 Oz. SC301 “Okinawa” fiber denim *

B) Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo FW2023 “CALI-JAN” Souvenir Jacket

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co mfsc FW2023 Preview, PART 1:

FW2023 blog preview has been split in two parts for clarity, and is broken down in three A) B) C) groupings.

Dear Friends,

Hope this finds you well, healthy, and in good spirits.
Here is a preview of our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane (mfsc) SS2023 collaboration, for your consideration.

Unlike what this avalanche of visuals suggests, we’ve kept things streamlined and concise this season. First grouping is a new capsule concept we’re calling “SURVIVAL SCHOOL”, small but packing a lotta punch, and featuring a collaboration piece with Buzz Rickson’s, to celebrate their 30th Anniversary.

A) FW2023 mfsc “SURVIVAL SCHOOL”:

This mfsc FW2023 “Survival School” capsule collection is an original line up freely-inspired by 40s~70s US military survival gear, vintage experimental MIL-SPECS garments, early NASA astronauts training program visuals etc.

Brief historical background of our storyline:

In the early days of WW2, a downed pilot’s chances of being rescued and making it back to safety were very slim.
The USAAF (United States Army Air Force) soon realized that training a serviceman in the art of flying was not enough. Arial combat training was lengthy, qualifying candidates few, so a skilled flyer needed to survive after a bail-out.
A downed aviator’s field experience was invaluable knowledge, and sharing that experience with new pilot recruits was crucial.

The odds of returning to base camp started changing with the establishment of “Survival Schools”, and the implementation by the DoD of proper “Survival – Evasion – Escape” training for all flying personnel. (timeline for USAAF here)

Newly-designed experimental gear was also being issued and tested in combat situations and survival circumstances.
Starting in the mid-1940s, official films recreating fictitious survival scenarios (jungle, desert, mountains, arctic) were produced, and became required viewing during training and on base. (Castaway, 1944)
Swimming skills became a requirement for all aircrews. Survival crash courses through tough physical training and studies of illustrated manuals became mandatory for Army Air Force and USN flyers.
Training in basic survival skills, acquiring jungle and mountain terrain knowledge, exotic fauna and flora expertise, learning about wilderness adaptability, food foraging, land navigation techniques, cold and hot weather survival, local language and customs essentials, expertise in blending with the elements to avoid capture, evasion tactics, …, all lead to greater chances to make it home for American flyboys.

Techniques, technology, and TO (Theater of Operations) have obviously evolved through the years for US Armed Forces, and so have instructions in survival manuals. If what applied to the Korean cold front in the 50s had to be adapted to Vietnam’s steamy jungles in the 60s, the basics and message remained the same after “Survival School”: “you now have the skills to live another day”, Sir.

For more background on our R&D inspiration and design process, check out:
* Vintage USAAF and USN pilot survival gear.
* Visuals from 1950s-1970s US military survival program, from “Arctic Indoctrination Survival School” (aka “Cool School”) to “Tropical Survival School” (aka “Green Hell”), to “Survival, Evasion, Resistance and Escape” (SERE) training.
* Visuals from NASA astronauts on desert/jungle survival training (+ here) or geological field trips ( photos 1965, 1965, 1965, 1967, 1969…)

: Natick label on a vintage 1970 Float Coat

One may notice the double labelling, branding this small collection.
The bottom woven label is our familiar “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor”, partly covered by a printed cloth label stitched on top, a nod to the little-known Quartermaster Research Facility (aka Natick Army Labs), a US Department of Defense organization located in Natick, Massachusetts. The “CLOTHING & TEXTILE RESEARCH UNIT” has been tasked with designing and developing anything from new uniforms/gear/fabrics/camo/etc for the US military since 1952. The double labelling conveys the “test gear” approach of our designs.

Again, no replicas this season, just imagined (or re-imagined) garments that “might have been”, with the usual grain of salt and design liberties we like to take with History, and the reassurance that we do not take ourselves too seriously, resulting in garments easily workable into a classic wardrobe.

FW2023 mfsc “SURVIVAL SCHOOL” line-up:

1) MA-1 “BAILOUT” Flyer’s Jacket, Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s 30th Anniversary:
Inspiration: Vintage early to mid-60s USAF MA-1 (MIL-J8279 Type D) flight jackets.
Fabric: heavy 2×2 nylon twill shell (rescue orange) and lining (1960s sage green).

* All period-correct Mil-Specs fabric & trims + construction/manufacturing/expertise courtesy of Buzz Rickson’s (Toyo Enterprise)
* Fully reversible, Indian orange side out as the main side.
* Wool knit collar/cuffs and zipper tape: contrast sage green.
* Vintage Mil-Specs zippers and wool/cotton pile interlining.
* Sleeve utility pocket on rescue orange side.
* Made in Japan as a collaboration with Buzz Rickson’s.
Note: CL production size = SMALL

2) MF-41 UTILITY Jacket:
Inspiration: US Army M1941 HBT utility jacket + mfsc 2015 Utility Jacket
Fabric: OG-107 cotton sateen, vintage Mil-Specs, 9 Oz.

* Black painted starburst tack buttons.
* Unlined, all clean seams.
* Made in Japan
Note: CL production size = SMALL

3) MECHANIC Trousers:
Inspiration: 1950s USAF mechanic Utility Trousers (MIL-T-4335A) + mfsc 2014 Mechanic Trousers
Fabric: OG-107 cotton sateen, vintage Mil-Specs, 9 Oz.

* Orange cotton rip-stop inside reinforcement accents.
* Orange snap accent on side cinch tabs.
* Button fly, corozo buttons.
* Map pocket on left lower leg.
* Made in Japan
Note: CL production size = W30 or W32

4) SNIPES Shirt:
Inspiration: a revisited vintage 1930’s US Army wool uniform pattern + our classic mfsc 2020 Snipes Shirt.
Fabric: Cotton HBT cloth, ~6 Oz., Army Green shade 44 (AG-44), white selvedge ID.
Note: CL production size = SMALL or MEDIUM

4) BARNSTORMER Jacket:
Inspiration: 10-button Peacoat + 2010 mfsc P-Jacket + vintage civilian 1940s USN “Barnstormer” deck jackets.
Fabric: Heavy 100% cotton jungle cloth, 14 Oz., 1940s USN khaki.

* Classic 1910s~1920s USN wool peacoat pattern/construction.
* Fully lined (beige corduroy for body & OG-107 sateen for arms)
* 1920s style 13-Star buttons.
* Black leather contrast pocket welt/pocket stops.
* Detachable chin strap.
* Tonal stitching.
* Made in Japan.
Note: CL production size = 38

5) Denim PEACOAT:
Inspiration: revisited original mfsc 2008 denim P-Jacket (Peacoat), our take on vintage 10-button USN/USCG Peacoats.
Fabric: Sugar Cane Co original SC301 “Okinawa” fiber denim, 14 Oz., 80% cotton x 20% Okinawan recycled sugarcane fibers, white selvedge ID.

* Classic 1910s~1920s USN wool peacoat pattern/construction.
* Fully lined (beige corduroy for body & OG-107 sateen for arms)
* 1920s style 13-Star buttons.
* Black leather contrast pocket welt/pocket stops.
* Detachable chin strap.
* Ivory contrast stitching.
* Made in Japan
Note: CL production size = 38

B) Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo FW2023 “CALI-JAN” Souvenir Jacket:

Next up is our 4th collaboration to date with Tailor Toyo (renown branch of Toyo Enterprises), the Master of “Sukajan”, and this number stands on its own.

Inspiration: This style of jackets has its origin in the naval base of Yokosuka, Japan, where skilled tailor shops have provided souvenir apparel to military personnel stationed there since the mid-1940s.
Sukajan is a composite word morphing (Yoko)Suka and the term Jaanpa borrowed from the english word jumper (ie. baseball/bomber style jacket.)

Following our debut 2015 Saigon Cowboy Party Jacket, explosive 2016 Mururoa Jacket, stellar 2017 Apollo Jacket, here comes the CALI-JAN, blending California vibes, 1960’s Vietnam-made souvenir jacket graphics (Viet-Jan) and 1950’s Japan-made jacket styles and visuals.

We were in uncharted waters during R&D, with many choices to make regarding style/color combo/stitching/etc, and I was very attached to not end-up with an original garment that would look too contemporary or fashiony. And, as the CALI-JAN would be fully reversible, there were two sides to consider!

At the end of a long process – and thanks to the team of experts at Tailor Toyo, the company’s long history with producing authentic sukajan, extensive communication with our dear friend Tanaka San (aka Tom) to coordinate it all, and, to the credit of Toyo’s network of skilled and experienced artisans who hand-operate the vintage embroidery machines – this modern rendition (from a poorly-executed doodle to the finished garment) turned out pretty cool!
Our 2023 CALIJAN looks legit, straight out of Dobuita Dōri circa 1955!

The original graphic pays respect to our beloved State of California, USA, and references a mixed bag of random iconic slices of Americana, from Frank Bullit’s 1968 green Mustang in the streets of San Francisco, to Buck Owen’s cheap patriotic acoustic guitar and the Bakersfield Sound, to Marilyn Monroe’s time on Catalina Island, to 1960’s surfer culture (CA State official sport), to California poppies (CA State official flower), to Blue & Gold (CA State official colors), to the endangered Joshua Trees etc…
And of course, the ubiquitous Joe Greene, aka Couscous, Sleepy Joe, the Dude, …, and actually the only native Californian involved in this whole project!
Cowabunga, says the Dude.

Fabric: 100% rayon fine twill.

* Fully reversible.
* Traditional ‘loose’ two-tone wool knit.
* Vintage style 50s zipper.
* Quilted pattern shell.
* Crafted (this word is abused in but does apply here) in Japan in very limited quantities.
Note: CL production size = MEDIUM

Next blog post will focus on FW2023 additions to the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SPORSTMAN catalog, and more…

Hang in there, and thanks for taking the time to look/read!

The SKIPPER JACKET, Weather Cloth and Ripstop, mfsc “Sea Hunt”, Spring 2014

Sea Hunt Skipper Jacket Mister Freedom 2014

Captain Ahab’s cover, estimated at roughly $35,000,000.00

My fellow G-Men won’t mind me sharing

What’s up doc? Green top, orange body.

Another hat inspiration

SKIPPER Jacket, Weather Cloth & Ripstop
“Sea Hunt” Collection, mfsc Spring 2014

One of these days, when they are made longer than 24 hours, I would love to embark on an attempt at documenting how a selection of time-tested 20th Century military garment designs originally came about…
We take for granted that iconic pieces exist, from the USN Peacoat to “The Hunter” MA-1 to Panama sole Jungle boots to “Taxi Driver” M-65… but gathering info on their drafting-table origins is a full-time job.

The design thought and process, along with the names and faces behind these garments, would make a fascinating coffee table book. Before all gets lost to History and assuming none of this is under classified status, I believe someone should undertake this archival task.
I do not know the first thing about writing a book, so I’ll put this on the rear part of the back burner of my broken stove for now.

So, until then, you know it, it’s time for another story! Yeahhhh!
Let’s introduce our 2014 “Skipper”.

This tricked-up zip-up jacket got its nickname from being the top layer of choice of our “Sea Hunt” Team’s salty helmsman, when cruising tropical latitudes. According to the type of mission the Team was on, a color was chosen, orange being mostly reserved for search & rescue. Such missions included the fruitless expeditions to locate 23 year-old adventurer Raymond Maufrais who vanished on January 13, 1950 after entering the thick Guyanese Amazon jungle. In 1964, after 18 self-financed expeditions to Dutch Guiana, his father Edgar Maufrais was still searching for him…

On a lighter note, the “Skipper” jacket’s design is a pure hybrid and had its origin in a different type of jungle.
I am talking about a remote little town called Natick, some 20 miles from Boston, in the US of A…

It is not commonly known that some of the ‘unsung heroes’ behind many of today’s wearables have had residency in Natick, Massachusetts. Through years of behind-the-scene activities related to the Garment Industry, Natick’s real clothing designers deserve more awards than those distributed on ephemeral fashion week catwalks.

Never gets old…

Natick is home of the ‘United States Army Soldier Systems Center‘, sometimes referred to as ‘Natick Army Labs‘.
Given military command’s keenness towards acronyms, the SSC’s denomination and responsibilities have greatly evolved over time, since its QRF (Quartermaster Research Facility) inception days, around 1952.
But that’s where the stuff gets designed. And tested. Like for real.
If you own a piece of vintage Government Issued US military field gear from the 1960’s, chances are its concept came out of some lab around Natick.
Today, for a portion of the roughly 2000 strong personnel working on the premises, the mission is to research and test for the US Army, from textiles to rations to camouflage patterns…
In order to better equip those in the fields according to needs and deployment specifics, uniforms and gear are subject to advanced technological tests and targeted engineering.
Then, we, little designers, get to reap from that R&D in total impunity, since military designs seem to fall under public domain the moment they are released. Stick a woven tab on the rear pocket of denim jeans however, and you get the heavies and a Cease and Desist 😉

Two photos below are courtesy of NSRDEC, Natick Soldier Research Development and Engineering Center. The denim jacket, from MF® archives, is an experimental USN 1970’s coat out of a Natick facility. It didn’t make the mark and that pattern never put in production.

Back on point, our Spring 2014 “Sea Hunt” SKIPPER Jacket owes some of its hybrid specifics to one of the jacket a Natick lab started concocting in 1962.
Namely the MIL-C-43199 (Coat, Man’s, Combat, Tropical) familiar to fans of Apocalypse Now and other jungle-fever types.

: Courtesy Charlie Haughey, Vietnam 1960s

: Chris Noel, Chu Bai, Vietnam, 1968

: Major Sweeney’s Tropical Combat Jacket, 1rst Pattern (MF® Archives)

We borrowed the slanted chest cargo pocket pattern from that tropical jacket, along with its lower cargo pockets. We opted for what is known, to above mentioned jungle-fever types, as the Second Pattern (issued in 1965). That modified pattern featured concealed buttons, as the exposed button models proved to get snagged when in the bush not yet napalmed.

We decided to get rid of the buttons altogether, we’re crazy like that, and replace them by the ultra-hi-tech invention of the day: the “Hook and Loop Fastener” system, invented in 1948, aka Velcro®.
Also, because we know that your summer plans include crossing the Congolese swamp land from West to East á la ‘Babinga-Pongo’, we were thoughtful enough to include ‘drain holes’ in the three cargo pockets (small round stitched eyelets allowing you to keep only the piranhas after a marsh bath.)
Additionally, an arm-wrestling contest with a man-eating swamp crocodile tends to make one work up a sweat, so we have added mesh-screen type eyelets to the underarms.
You’re welcome.

A Congolese swimming pool, 1975

Again borrowed from the US QM Depot are the heavy “Crown” zippers, often featured on field gear in the 1960’s (M-65 jackets for instance.)
Another military reference is the left chest snap pocket, originally the thigh pocket of an orange USAF coverall that held the knife that would cut tangled paracord. The arm ‘cigarette’ pocket is also borrowed from vintage flight gear, and will now hold your iPod, just because smoking is bad.

Our hybrid “Skipper” jacket also features some non-mil flagrant influences. It freely borrows from vintage late 1960’s-70’s Sierra Designs® 60/40 mountain parka type detailing, such as snap wind-flaps, two-tone hood, leather pull toggles, gusseted wrist cuffs…

And now the “Fine, fine already, but does it come in black?” chapter:
The fabric options consist of two colors of tightly woven 100% cotton 6 Oz. weather cloth, navy blue and olive green.
A third option, an entirely different textile, is an orange 100% cotton 4.75 Oz. RIPSTOP fabric.
Urban legend has it that the six pockets of the orange ripstop “Skipper” jacket where all needed to holster the many batteries that made it so blindingly bright.
For pairing suggestions, the photos bellow display a full range of multiple and fashionable outfit options. Immediate attention on your bicycle ride to work guaranteed.
MF®, always pushing the boundaries of Trend Forecasting.

: Recommended Spring 2014 Look #1

: Recommended Spring 2014 Look #2, 3,and 4

: Royal Canadian Air Force hipsters

: Still a bit shy

: The roots of it all

: Classified MF® R&D Dept documents

Now, after rendering unto Caesar that which is Caesar’s, ie. duly crediting the US Army + George Marks & Bob Swanson of Sierra Design®, let me shamelessly state the following…
The Spring 2014 “Sea Hunt” Skipper Jacket was designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan as a collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRICS
a) Navy Weather Cloth: 100% cotton 6 Oz. tightly woven windbreaker popeline, milled in Japan.
b) Jungle Green Weather Cloth: 100% cotton 6 Oz. tightly woven windbreaker popeline, milled in Japan.
c) Orange Ripstop: 100% cotton 4.75 Oz. ripstop fabric, milled in Japan.

According to how you decide to roll your hoodie (= which color will be facing) when secured with the adjustable cinch-strap, the jacket will look two-tone or single tone.
The Navy option has orange accents, the Jungle green option has navy accents, the Orange option has Jungle green accents. And no, the Skipper doesn’t come in green with orange accents, nor in black.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, hybrid of 50’s-60’s US military gear and 1970’s mountain parka outdoor-type jackets.
* Un-lined, with flat-felled inside seams, no overlock or exposed seams.
* Heavy mil-spec 1960’s type “Crown” zipper.
* Windflap with DOT-type mil-specs snaps.
* Five pockets:
– Three ‘Vietnam’ combat jacket style Velcro® flap pockets with drain holes and one pen pocket.
– One iPhone chest snap pocket.
– One forearm iPod zipper pocket.
– One concealed chest pocket.
* Gusseted wrist cuffs, two-tone.
* Leather drawstring toggles and cinch eyelets.
* Underarm metal mesh-type eyelets.
* Rollable two-tone hood
* Drawcord hood and bottom, for wind protection.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Made in Japan.

WASHING/SIZING:
The Skipper is cut fairly trim but is wearable as a layer according to your build.
I wear a size 38 (medium) Skipper, my usual size in mfsc, with enough room for a light shirt and denim jacket/sweater underneath if needed.
All three fabric options come unwashed, as usual, and will shrink to approximate similar measurements (although our carrot Ripstop fella is slightly longer.)
We recommend an original cold soak, spin dry cycle and line dry.
When cleaning is needed, gentle washing cycle in cold water with minimal detergent will do the trick. Because of the heavy mil-spec type zipper + other metal parts and the relatively thin fabric , care should be taken not to subject the jacket to harsh machine washing.
When in doubt, professional cleaning is always a good option, for those with an environmentally-friendly cleaner in the neighborhood.

Please refer to cold soak/line dry measurements chart (note that, although not recommended, hot water and heat dryer use will result in further shrinkage and probable damage to the leather parts.)
Also note that due to the raglan sleeve pattern, the sleeve measurements were taken from pit-to-cuff (not shoulder-to-cuff.)

Skipper Orange Sizing Chart Mister Freedom

Orange Ripstop

Weather Cloth

Available RAW/unwashed.

SIZES:
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (X-Large)
44 (XX-Large)
Retail
a) Navy Weather Cloth $649.95
b) Jungle Green Weather Cloth $649.95
c) Orange Ripstop $649.95

Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com
Please call 323-653-2014 or email [email protected] with any questions not answered above.
Thank you sincerely for your support.
Now I just need to haul the 3,200 Lbs of props back in storage.
BRB